You get the same differential in melt time with sealed containers, cheers.

@@Rocky_Hill_Iron_Works nice, I just tested some I made. They lasted three days. The equivalent of three bags of ice. But with an approximate of one bag of ice in the tubes. Not bad. No water mess. 😊

Please watch the video properly before commenting.

hello!! love the video,is just a suggestion that in a open space salty water could loose it's temp faster because the gradient temperature is higher,so it absorb heat faster.

@@yvanpimentel9950 Yes the plastic has some insulating property but it is the same for fresh water ice and the differential between them doesn't change as long as they are both kept under the same conditions. Thanks for watching.

I don't have a blueprint sorry as it's just improvised with what scrap metal I had lying around, there in good info on how the mechanism works though in the description and towards the end of the video, they are great hammers and quite easy/cheap to make. Thank you for watching

haha thank you, I thought I would make one as there wasn't really a vid out there that demonstrated it properly

Oh.......and beer.

Yes Gatorade or hyrolight tablets ect can reduce the melting point a little but more heavily salted water lowers it a lot more so if you need to keep just a few items frozen the duel zone method I cover in this vid is a great option but one must also remember that with whatever you use any decrease in melting point will also result in a decrease in melting time. Also as stated in the vid salt water ice is great for pre cooling which is very important with these thick roto-molded coolers for 10+ day performance. Thanks for watching.

No worries at all! Glad you enjoyed it

yes although I didn't cover that trick in this video the action lab has a great video on how putting salt on fresh water ice makes it cool faster. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g8xlqrp2m56sgY0.html

@@Rocky_Hill_Iron_Works thank you, I'll check it out 👍

Yes that's another great advantage of using fresh water ice in containers and if you need freezer temperatures for just a few items you can use the duel zone technique that I cover in this video.

Thanks for checking it out, it really is just as simple as explained/shown in the vid from 6:42 on-wards and there's more detail in the description. Basically the 2 position 5 way valve supplies air to the lower chamber of the ram when the pedal is up and to the top chamber of the ram when the pedal is down. The quick exhaust valves on both ram ports ensure that the unused chamber is de-pressurized quickly when the opposite chamber in pressurized allowing the hammer to move quickly. The hammer head itself is basically just a simple 69kg weight on sliders. The rubber bump stops at the top make sure the ram doesn't get damaged by the hammer topping out. The anvil is a 740kg dead weight and the top and bottom hammer faces are made from the wheel side of railway line. Check out the vid from 6:42 on-wards and the description for more detail. Cheers

Yep exactly! Different types for different situations

I'd go with air of you can in my opinion, they are very easy to make and setup like this they have a lot of control, I'm really happy with this one. Fast reciprocation rate slapping style hammers are cool to and arguably better for finishing work. But heavy hit air hammers are the king of moving bulk material and can be pretty soft and precise too. As for the price of building one well that's a hard question to answer, it depends what you have got laying around in your scrap pile, i think the only things i had to buy for mine were 2 quick exhaust valves and a 2 position 5 way valve, think it was around $60 for the lot. If you go with air remember to factor in a decent air reservoir tank, mines 300L, its plenty and recharges between heats.

Its an old twin cylinder with 10cfm free air delivery and a 300 liter tank, seems to be plenty as it recharges between heats.