@@joematsuura I had some codes but they were not related. If you follow the instructions in the description it will get you all set. A digital external tach may be needed

You will need access to that adjustment screw that is hidden behind the brass cap on factory carbs. I had previously drilled mine out so I could not demonstrate. It's fiddly and you have to be careful not to go too far but it can be done in about half an hour

@@helloish12321 thanks I have almost enough money for my bike so I’m just trying to learn. I’m at 1500 feet, can you recommend me which jets to use?

@@helloish12321 let me trouble you once more, is anything extra needed to put a k n air filter?

@@Balithazzarr the main jet in the kit is the one most will use. Idle jet might take some trial and error. I use a 20 at sea level. For the k&n air filter I would go to the hardware store and get another nut to use as a jam nut for the filter. Mine fell off several times from vibration. Other than that it's just drop in

@@helloish12321 awesome, thanks for being so helpful

I did but those listings tend to change. It's the first result when you search xv250 exhaust. They are also everywhere on eBay.

The jets are the brass parts that gas flows through to mix with air and go into the engine. There are typically 2; a main jet and idle jet. The larger the hole in the jet the more gas goes in. The jets with bigger numbers have larger holes. You can use this guide to help take out your factory jets to clean them but if your bike is stock (no intake or exhaust work done) then you don't need to change the sizes. If you do intake or exhaust work then you get more air in and need to adjust the jets accordingly.

@@helloish12321 ok thanks. My daughters 2013 v star 250 sat for a long time. It'll start barely but gas is flowing out air box area. I assume this is stuck float? Etc. your video is very clear thanks.

@@desotopete mine had the same issue. Stuck float or bad float height. Start with the float and make sure to clean all jets as well as the idle air mix screw. That circuit gets clogged very easy and it will never idle right

@@helloish12321 thanks a million. Your video gave very clear description and instructions about the carb. Good editing.

I was told that by the previous mechanic, but I would have repeat clutch problems from oil getting out and into the clutch. Maybe I just used too much but I found more reliability when applying manually.

I think there used to be some kits available that went to 285cc. The problem is the bore of the case isn't wide enough for the piston skirt to travel all the way down so without boring out the case the kit can only get to 285

Oh yeah they are a pain. Just wanted it to be a short video since it's not a complicated procedure and most other videos take way too long

That's a great tip. I struggled trying to find a wrench to fit it and settled with pliers, which is very fiddly of course. I'll keep it in mind.

Without checking my bike I think I currently have it at 4 or so turns out. This is at sea level with a 20 idle jet.

Damn that's a bummer! Glad you got it sorted out. Was it a used bike?

Yes. I think 3 owners. The last lady had it for 2 years and sold it. I bet she had that problem that whole time. The dealership never took it above 2nd gear so they didn’t notice the power drop, rode it all day yesterday trying to find why it wouldn’t accelerate above 3rd. 4th and 5th were basically useless. Then took off that timing chain cover off and bam. It’s was sheared right off with the bolt sitting on top of it.

Was only the 3rd or so video I had made like this. I started doing a voice over afterwards

From what I understand smaller motorcycles don't last as long as large ones. Overstressed engines and all that. Also this being air cooled doesn't help. I have almost 10k on mine with no severe issues. Only the usual 15 yo outside kept motorcycle things. I consider it very reliable so far and its an old simple design. Not a lot to go wrong. Completely stock I got routinely 72 mpg. After the pipes and rejet it went down quite a bit to low 50s. I was running a Chinese aftermarket carb and swapped back to the OEM mikuni and once I got that completely dialed in I get high 50s. It's a large mpg drop but the bike feels much faster afterwards.

Thank you for your information. It was helpful. @@helloish12321

The whole stock exhaust is a goofy design. Probably had to meet strict noise regulations somewhere else in the world.

Hope it works. There's a few different whines this transmission can make. I no longer have the car but the noise disappeared with the new filter. Also recommend changing the fluid at the same time if it is old fluid. Just drain and refill with Honda genuine.

Yes!! That fixed it!! Omg thanks so much holy crap. I thought my tranny was messed

With the piston at top dead center on the compression stroke both the intake and exhaust valves will be closed. That's why it's important to verify top dead center by checking the mark on the cam sprocket. Line that cam mark up and then adjust the valves to spec. You only need to rotate the engine again when you go to do the other cylinder.

Got it! Thanks. Doing mine tomorrow.

@@helloish12321 Nothing like taking it all apart and find it still in spec. I owned it for 14 years and it was still solid.

Did you get this ticking noise after attempting a valve adjustment or just over time? Has an adjustment ever been performed? My bike has some slight valve noise even with properly adjusted valves. I can get my ear right up to the engine head and tell what's going on just from sound, but it's just a subtle normal valve noise. If you want you can upload a video as private and link me to it in a reply

Yes. Until I rejetted the carb to compensate for the additional airflow the bike was backfiring as soon as you let off throttle and it was big loud pops. It still backfires after the rejet, but its that sort of subtle crackle backfiring when you downshift

There was only one idle jet in the kit in the beginning, a 20. Additionally I listed in the description my current setup. After trial and error I found a 20 idle ,120 main and 1 needle shim worked best on my bike. Your bike may like a little more or less gas so try a few setups

@@helloish12321 ok great where can i go to get the 20 jet pilot &120 middle main jet 120 & 1 needle shim to work best on my bike , thank you for your time please forward me where i need to go to get these parts , happy new year, Trey

what web site do you recommend ???thank you again

@@treyatkins358 jp cycles typically has jets in stock. If you can't find any there then you can usually get generic jets on Amazon in a big kit. Just search xv250 jets on Amazon to find some

The service manual mentions doing it at the first 3000 miles, and then every 6000 miles after that. It becomes a fairly quick job by the second time you do it.