I am using a KipperTie Chinstrap, and attached the nato rail that came with the hand grip to that with a pair of 1/4-20 screws.

There is already a correction note on the video about the swappable battery.

The 3.5mm input on the DJI Mic 2 is a mic level input, so you would need to use a line to mic level attenuator. But assuming a properly wired cable, yes, you could feed it an attenuated signal from a mixer or other device. Also, keep in mind that it is a mono signal input, so you would need to use a pair of Mic 2s with attenuators if you need to transmit a stereo feed.

@@cwichura thanks!

I haven't used the ME4, so can't compare them. Sorry.

Yeah, I was really happy that Core finally made this. It will work for both the 17" and the 24". While the 17" has a less capable panel that isn't actually HDR, it might be more convenient for porting around to gigs due to the smaller size. The 24" absolutely chews through batteries. A pair of 98s gets about seventy minutes. I did test connecting my Jetpack EVO with EVO-MOD24 expansion and powering via a block battery, and it worked. But the EVO-MOD expansion plates are impossible to buy now, due to component shortages, and I need my Jetpack EVO on my camera. So I am looking to see if some other company makes a "fake goldmount" that can be powered from an external block battery.

@@cwichuraohh yes I’ll be following your KZfaq page to see if you came up with any solutions your very much appreciated I had no idea how to make this all work until your video thank you so much

Sorry, I've not done anything with the AHM custom control editor. I've only used the IP8 hardware controller with it.

That was an error. Please see the correction note in the video description.

I agree, it varies by people's use case. For me, it'd probably last long enough as I don't generally do long shoots. But for people doing big shoots that last 10-16 hours a day, they'd need to plan to have enough power on hand.

The handle extensions are quality metal parts and seem very strong. I have never seen/used Wooden Camera's actual top handle, though. But I'd imagine it is similar quality metal and should be fine. My 15mm lens supports are also Wooden Camera and also have a high quality build to them.

@@cwichura Awesome, thanks for the feedback :) Glad to hear they compare to the Arri and BT ones :)

You are welcome.

The new DJI Focus Pro supports fully independent operation from the DJI gimbals. I do not own any of their gimbals, and I can use the new hand grip that comes in the Focus Pro kit to do all the calibration and lens profile creation -- something the last generation required the gimbal controller to do.

@@cwichura Thanks! => running to the store now! :)

Thanks! I'm glad you found it useful.

The Freakshow has worked well for me. I actually just posted a rig rundown video, and I talk about how I use it in that video. Cheers!

That depends. The DJI Focus Pro requires lenses to have hard stops on the focus (and other) rings. Most photography lenses do not have hard stops, so will not be calibrateable on the DJI Focus Pro. If the lens in question does have hard stops then yes, you can have LiDAR auto-focus. Of if you're asking if you have to use the focus motor -- DJI has done some partnerships where you can connect the Focus Pro to the camera via Bluetooth or USB and have it control a motorized lens through the camera. I have seen a few KZfaq videos demonstrating it with recent Lumix cameras. I would guess they have a compatibility list posted somewhere on their website, but I haven't looked as this is not my use case.

Simply because it was where I had a place to mount it. As mentioned in the video, my goal is to figure out a way to mount it to top rods over the lens, but I don't have a solution for that yet. Having the LiDAR slightly off center doesn't impact its accuracy as a distance ranging device. For accurate ranging, the key element is ensuring you've configured the distance from the sensor plane to the front of the LiDAR accurately. Having it off to the side slightly instead puts you at risk of having part of the LiDAR's view occluded by the lens and/or mattebox. So it might have trouble "seeing" a subject to the far left, with it mounted on the right side like I have it now. This hasn't been an issue for me in my testing so far, however -- at least with no mattebox in use at the same time.

@@cwichura it absolutely effects how well it will work if you choose to mount it to the side. Thats ridiculous.

Focal distance is perpendicular to the plane that intersects the desired object of focus. So measured straight forward from the LiDAR sensor. The LiDAR has a widish angle of view at 70 degrees. The design must take into account that subjects on the edge are slightly further than an object dead center in front of it when calculating the bounce times of the IR beams (which are diagonal/direct, not perpendicular), or subjects on the edges of the sensor's view would be considered too far away. So even if you mount the sensor slightly to the side of the camera, a subject directly in front of the camera the sensor will calculate the correct distance to them because it's taking the angle of the IR beam for the arc in front of it into account. That said, I've already stated I am looking into mounting solutions to put the LiDAR on top rails over the lens.

@@cwichura No one should take you or your channel seriously if you're reviewing a product you can't even be bothered to mount correctly

The test was mainly about ensuring the DJI Mic 2 provides sufficient bias voltage to drive the mics. Insufficient voltage results in either no sound or extremely staticy sound which is immediately apparent.

Yes, this was an error when I recorded the video, and I added a note in the video's description for this already. Unfortunately, KZfaq doesn't let you edit videos, and I looked for the text annotation overlays, but I don't seem to have access to that feature.

For what it's worth, I pre-ordered mine from B&H in the US.

@@cwichura mine from a dji italian authorized reseller and I think is bigger of the italian store they have :D

They state the LiDAR range is 20 meters/65 feet. I haven't been able to test that myself, though I believe CVP did and found it about accurate. That will cover practical working ranges for most shots, I believe. And if you are outside that range, you can still use it in manual focus mode (probably with a 1st AC using the hand unit they sell for the system). In this video, I had the focus response set to the default of 3 (out of 5). Using that setting, you can influence how fast it tracks focus when switching between subjects, etc. I haven't had a chance to really test that, either, yet, though.

@@cwichura I see. I already own a few Tilta fiz motors paired with the Nuclues M, but buying the DJI focus Pro version would be interesting with the Lidar range set-up. Did you buy the FIZ Hand Unit as well?

I did not purchase the hand unit. It's an extra $950USD, and I operate the camera solo. The LiDAR auto-focus was my primary interest, since it allows me to concentrate more on framing rather than trying to maintain focus manually.

Yes, this was an error when I recorded the video, and I added a note in the video's description for this already. Unfortunately, KZfaq doesn't let you edit videos, and I looked for the text annotation overlays, but I don't seem to have access to that feature.

Yes, this was an error when I recorded the video, and I added a note in the video's description for this already. Unfortunately, KZfaq doesn't let you edit videos, and I looked for the text annotation overlays, but I don't seem to have access to that feature.

Thanks for the interest. The rig is actually kinda basic/standard parts; just looks impressive as it's built out a bit more like a big cine camera instead of the minimalist builds most Komodo users rock. I've ordered a couple parts to try and get the LiDAR unit mounted above the lens. I'd prefer to wait until I've got that figured out before I post a rig overview.

@@cwichura yea, am annoyed by how little mounting options my tilta cage provides when i require it to be rigged out, it often turns out to be weirdly balanced with little points for cable management.

I think this is a general problem with the small form factor of the Komodo and the limited mount points on the body itself. My rig is kind of limited for mounting options, too. I use the KipperTie Chinstrap (as I wanted the extra support for the KipperTie Revolva mount adapter), which gives you a row of 1/4-20s on each side of the camera. I have the nato rail for the DJI Focus Grip on the right side now, and a SmallRig cold shoe mount on the left side to hold the timecode generator. I also use the RED I/O expansion plate for the Komodo. I know a lot of people didn't like it, but it's worked for my needs. Not only do you get the I/O port breakouts (which I needed), but it raises the Komodo height to be more in line with full-sized cine cameras (which helps with for the bottom rods spacing from the lens). And it also gives you mounting points on each side as well, to which I've got Mondo Ties attached on both the left and right for help with cable management. Finally, I use a Kessler Crane K-Plate, which does triple duty as a stand, Arca-Swiss dovetail and 15mm LWS rod holder. You can get side cheesplates for the K-Plate that give you a TON of 1/4-20 and 3/8-16 mount points, and I have those on both sides of my K-Plate.

FYI, I have posted a rig rundown video now.

They have a separate hand controller that connects wirelessly (though with not much range from what I've read). That comes with a D-Tap cable to power the motors in case you don't have the grip. But I don't have the hand unit, so in my case, my only option to power the motor and LIDAR is from the grip.

The docs say the grip is good for 2.5 hours of heavy use in the specs sheet. So even less than my estimate. They just undersized the battery I think.

@@cwichura ok then, I hate none user replaceable batteries

@@mattwruff Turns out I was wrong about that -- I updated the video description to explain that. But the manual is terrible (refers to the battery as "built-in"), and the release mechanism is not that obvious -- especially when you have moved the handle to mount on the right side. But yes, there are way too many products with fixed batteries these days.

The previous firmware made RS2/RS3 Battery compatible, but they removed it.

Yes, so long as you have an audio interface with a microphone preamp. This microphone has an XLR output.

No. The DJI Mic 2 takes a TRS 3.5mm with “Sennheiser lav” wiring. The LEMO3-to-3.5mm adapter cable from Tentacle matches this.

Agree. Really dumb design on DJI’s part, since the majority of 3.5mm lavs have locking connectors.

No, but I haven't tried, either. I don't use the UniPlex that often. And I am usually using my Axient Digital gear. For the Mic 2, it's more for personal stuff and I use a TwinPlex with it.

For what it's worth, I have not had issues with getting sufficient clean gain for spoken word usage. (I've been using the Mic 2 almost exclusively with a TL48.)

I would expect so. Those are done in the camera, and then the camera is outputting as a "dumb" webcam. I don't have any Insta360 cameras, however, so cannot test their webcam UVC output capabilities.

@@cwichura Thanks for the reply

Thanks for the video. When you were showing the NDI PTZ controls, were you controlling the Osmo Pocket 3?

@@peterstone7085 It was controlling the Pocket 3, yes. PTZ all worked, but it didn't seem to remember presets. I think that is more on the P3 USB implementation than the adapter, however.

@@cwichura That’s great Christopher. I was trying to find this out, but couldn’t see anything about this anywhere else! I’m putting together an ultra lightweight streaming kit atm, using a Yolobox Ultra, 3 Osmo Pocket 3’s on monopods & now I’ll get the Obsbot converters too. Since your video, the OP3 had an update (as I’m sure you know) & is now streaming 4K in webcam mode - it looks great! Thanks again for replying & look forward to more of your videos.

You might be able to find short (maybe 6-8 inches) 3.5mm female to male cables with right angles on Amazon. If not, I'd contact your nearest location sound supply company (in the US, places like Gotham Sound or Trew Audio) to have a custom cable made. (I have had many cables made by Gotham and they do great work at very reasonable prices.) The preamps in the Mic 2 are decent. More than usable for creators in the target demographic these are designed for.

Doesn't look like it. Quick web search shows multiple vendors indicating they have stock. And it isn't in the legacy products section of Shure's website. I got mine around three years ago, FWIW.

I think they just use the RTC chip to maintain their timecode. So there will be more variance, especially at different ambient temperatures.

The mags actually come formatted in APFS. (Which seems an odd choice to me -- exFAT would make them more immediately usable for most use cases.) But they are ultimately just block storage devices, so you can format them with any file system that is supported by your host devices. For video editing, the file system probably won't make much performance difference, though. APFS gets you journalling, which is good in event of a sudden power outage. And it will do better if you have tens of thousands of tiny files. But video files are generally a handful of very large files that you are doing sequential reads against, and any of the file systems will deliver max speeds for that. You will be limited by Thunderbolt max transfer speed, not the file system. If you really need absolute max speed, the only way to get that is with NVME storage in the computer itself using full PCIe bus connectivity. I use the PRO-BLADE system as capture media, not to edit from (I ingest to my NAS and edit from there). On my Blackmagic Video Assist, I use Apple HFS because it also has journaling. (And I am doing ingest on a Mac, which can read that file system.) Almost all my other devices are using exFAT, with a couple devices that only support FAT32 (like recording multi-channel audio on an Allen & Heath SQ). For the FAT32 devices, I use the 2TB mag, since they don't support 4TB and would only use half of the larger mags.

Thank you very much for the long answer. I got a new Windows with 4x NVMe that go at 7000MB/s theoretically instead they arrive at 4500 MB/s each but it always crashes I also called a tech guy but I am becoming crazy it stops always the USB ports go slow, the Thunderbolt 4 ports are slow also. I am selling all parts and getting a new Mac Studio M2 MAX. I have also other Macs I wouldn't had to change. Apart this one Sandisk that is stable I looked at OWC Thunderbay Flex 8 that can handle U.2 Enclosures for M.2 but it has also 8x 3.5" HDD drives it will make a huge noise I thought it would be better to have 3 different enclosures, Editing on NVMe 16TB, Music SSD and Large Storage Copy HDD 3,5 so that I don't turn them on together and they don't make all the noise. Another solution would be QNAP TBS-h574TX with 5x NVMe but it has Thunderbolt and NAS that I hate too complicated for me.

Thanks! Pain levels are already dramatically improved now that the nerves aren't being pinched any more.

Yes. But this was the last video with it, as the CEDAR has replaced the noise suppression processing I had been using ever since.

I believe you are referring to the noise gate. It was set too aggressive when this video was made. I have since stopped using noise gates in that manner. That said, I listened to this video again and I don't find the speech hard to understand -- the noise gate doesn't sound like it is clipping off the start or end of words.

The overhead shots are from an OBSBOT Tail Air, which has no optical zoom. The image falls apart heavily even at roughly 2.5x zoom, which was used here. It also has poor dynamic range. The camera was in auto-focus mode. I regret having bought it. I need a to figure out a better camera to use for overheads that is lite enough for the support system on the desk.

I am not a Premier user, so cannot comment on how this is done in it. But in Resolve, before adding the clip to a timeline, open clip attributes and change the audio from stereo to mono, add back the extra track(s) and then select the correct channel(s) from the source file for each of the tracks.

In the Timecode menu, there is a button to set the timecode to the system clock's current time. You will want to do this each time you turn on the camera. The system clock appears to be auto-updated whenever you access the camera via the Mimo app.

Thanks! It did a lot better than I was expecting, but will still require checking clips. That said, in a lot of use cases a frame or two is probably acceptable (e.g., when not filming yourself talking where people will see the lipsync delta), in which case it will absolutely save time in post.

Thanks for taking the time to do the test, your pocket 3 seems more accurate than mine, when i sync using a Saramonic SR-C2001 3.5mm TRS/m to USB-C cable and a deity TC-1, Tentacle sync Track E and my mixpre6 mkii my pocket three accelerates ahead soon after sync, all equipment on latest firmware as of 19th feb, in the uk the c21 deity cable and most deity cables are almost impossible to find, i have been in touch with a uk audio store who mentioned this to the deity rep and I'm told they'll stock some soon, not that a different cable will make any difference to the p3. can dji tighten up the clock cycle with a firmware update or is it down to the dji lame quality control and pot luck ?

@jazzstream I doubt firmware will do it. I believe they do not have a TCXO clock in the P3, and are relying on a regular RTC chip. From observations over multiple cycles, I believe they record the RTC time when the camera goes to sleep and then when it wakes up they read the RTC again and compute the delta to update the timecode value. FWIW, my test was done indoors in a room with relatively consistent temperature (around 78F).

@@cwichura Hi Chris and Matt, Today my Boya BY-K2 3.5mm to usb c cable arrived and i can confirm it syncs perfectly with the P3, one thing i have noticed is after i have synced my Track E to the Deity TC-1 i can then plug the Track E into the P3 and nothing on screen except that when i hit record on the P3 you can see a constant audio signal on the P3 audio level indicator, this i assume can only be the timecode generated by the Track E ? could it be that we can have a constant timecode with no drift, I'll put the recorded track onto prem pro or audition later on when i have time to see if the timcode signal is recorded and also if i can replicate it via the TC-1.

i just put the TC-1 into master/audio out, plugged it into the P3 and the timcode audio pulse shows on screen even when not recording, hit record and playback and it is clear and loud timecode.

My 4188 was ordered with Shure/AudioDevices-style LEMO3 termination. I don't use Microdot -- it is WAY too fragile a connector. Also, Sony as I understand it is the odd ball out with the way they wire their lavs. I've seen others complain about them many times. So there is probably a difference between the different DPA Microdot adapters. I don't know the pinout of the Tentacle LEMO3-to-3.5mm, unfortunately. Sorry.

@@cwichura Understood. Thank you for your time!

The quiet signal from the Sony is most likely due to the reverse wiring. Sony wires the ring to be hot and the tip is neutral, where as the standard is the tip is hot and the ring is neutral. I'm currently debating if I should build an adapter to reverse this.

@@petercofrancesco9812 I think you are right. The one that ended up working for me was the DAD6034 which is the "tascam style" pinout 3.5mm which gave me perfect audio with no noise. I have a feeling that is the more standardized style as you mentioned. Good luck with your converter cable.

@@jasonzdora Thx I ended up soldiering on a jack to extra Audio Technica AT899 I had. Worked great. No sound difference just small capsule and nicer wire.

I don't have (nor have I used) the original DJI Mic, so cannot provide a comparison. My DJI Mic 2 came with my Pocket 3, and I don't believe it has the full noise reduction firmware. The menus call it wind noise reduction. I didn't notice much difference turning it on indoors -- ambient noise was still very high. This may change when a new firmware is released. The noise reduction in this video was done in post.