Ya, this tank pack is not worth the price tag... everything seems good in theory but once you have the opportunity to try it out you'll find out quickly it's not what it claims to be and something I would never purchase again. That said , if you're in the market and willing to making your own tank pack that will last years and you can make or add your own attachments (with a little creativity), then take look at the video link below. Till this day i still make use my own tank pack/bags just as you see in the video. Video Link: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pKyGbNqJtKq4o6c.html Amazon Product links found at my store: www.amazon.com/shop/thechemist/list/3KRCQP067EYOF?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsflist_aipsfthechemist_BCLZA3OOB8EL7UTUSNBN

@@cheechakooutdoors just curious to know what was your search title/criteria when researching this issue..

@@TheChemistDIY I looked up, “2001 gsxr 600 stator noise,” because I was pretty certain that’s the area it was coming from, and because I replaced the stator/actuator about 3 months ago

The gear on the stepper motor does not matter..move it all you want.. it has one job and that's to move forward n backward in micro increments.. aka steps What keeps track of movement or positioning is the TPS and why it's important you place the V shape cog in the correct orientation upon assembly as this is connected directly to the TPS. See this video before you perform this DIY so you have a complete understanding and how to permanently fix this issue kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ftZnldJ2yLu6aYk.html

So way back when I made this video I did find a YT video where a guy had replaced the buttons with a full floating kit.. But a full floating kit is a track thing and also has more chatter and clanking then you have now. That said you probably wont find anything out there that wont produce a chatter sound... if you do, well come back and let us know..

Sounds like the STVA... But usually this is accompanied with a FI light, although not always.. the bike goes into limp home mode to save itself from further damage.. 7k is usually the RPM range where it will limit you and basically keep you at 60-70 mph no matter how much throttle you give it.

@@daryldaryl913 I don't think HJC cares to get rid of this problem, It requires trashing the current tooling and a complete update to the CAD Model in order to produce the correct parts. Why when you continue scamming unsuspecting customers until the next iteration...

This happens when one or all of three things happens. 1) Stator is going bad 2) RR going bad 3) One of the 3 phase is intermittent Hard wiring in the stator connections is the best way to resolve this issue. If after hard wiring the melting still occurs, then you know its time to replace the Stator or RR.. test both. Just an FYI a stator can test good but still give you problems like this, Happen to me not to long ago ..

That is the job of the T-Tap

Sorry to hear that brother.. I find this a bit Odd since I haven't seen anyone who's watched this 3 part series state anything about damaging their STPS in any of the comments.. So, Just a recap on the series: 1. Dealership Plug location & Mode 2. Removal/ Disassembly/Soldering & Proper reassembly of STVA 3. Permanent fix (solder in wires to the main contact points) You have to remember that these videos were made over the course of what, 7 year's, and after a few times of fixing and repairing finally arriving to this solution where I/you wouldn't have to do it EVER again. Part two is where you find the information you are describing (setting the cog gear in the STVA) which is posted in the cards that flash in the top right corner. Not sure how I could get anymore clearer then that bro. That video was super long. Maybe they just didn't see that video.

That I don't know brother, never worked on one. BUT if you're bike is water cooled then just following back the hose to the engine block and that's should bring you to the bell inlet. Remember some bikes/atv's maybe air cooled and you may not have.. so do your homework. Sorry I couldn't be much more help.

Applies to all motorcycles that use this type of stepper motor to actuate the butterfly movement. Including the version with he pig tail.

You did what?!?!... Brother you may have just ended your engines life... Your talking about two entirely different engine ratios.. depending on how long you ran with the 600 ECU the timing difference alone should have killed you valves.. But with that said I don't have enough information as to what your have done and why you put a 600 ECU in in the first place...

@@TheChemistDIY my bike is a gsr 600 but the engine broke down so i bought a 750 engine to replace it and it sparks fine just that alot of misfre and backfire

Well to be honest, if your not seeing any advers readings from your spark plugs then your bike is running as it should. Remember, black plugs means to rich and white plugs means to lean.... the sweet spot is the brown eye..Ooops... ment Brown color.. tehe. I added my PCIII because the bike was running really rich and fouling my plugs.. I would get back from a ride and stink like exhaust, not to mention I could smell the extra fuel being spent during my ride. I added the PCIII and switched to copper plugs and that fixed everything... copper burns hotter. But if you feel you need to tweak, then you may just want to place all levels at the ZERO mark, This is DJ version of stock a stock setting.. But again, read your plugs.. that will tell you what direction you need to go.

@@TheChemistDIY 😂😂😂😂loved the brown eye part. Yeah going to my plugs is a lill hard on my bike, but previous plugs have been black soothy dry. I did however make Low to 0, medium to +1 and high was already at +1. So I will try the setting and see, and also asked dynojet to provide me with possible best tune on their website by giving them info about my bike if not😁 I just want it smoother and use stock fuel or a lill lower, and dont need more hp gain really😂 Thanks again for the video. I loved it and helped me a lot

If you applied a nice thick coat you should be able to just peel it off, like the skin on the bottom of your feet 😂

Bypass the kickstand switch by inserting a wire into the green connector and jumpering.. tape down the wire and ride like that for a few days and see if the bike throws the same codes at any point.. if not then your kick stand switch is bad.. you can leave the wire in but just know that you will have no warning of the kickstand being down and could result in a accident. To have all 4 injector codes thrown at once means that there was power interrupt to your your fuel delivery. Aside from the fuel pump the only other real thing that cuts off the fuel is the kickstand and kill switch.. both are a safety feature. You may want to check there.

I have to say my experience with this kit and it's manufacturer have been spot on. To date my kits have held up pretty damn well., the paint shines flawlessly with no peeling or cracking. Also, notice I said kits and not kit and thats because Ive made more then one purchase of a full fairing set, the prices are fair and I have faith in the quality of their product after my first purchase. But I just want it to be known that it hasn't been the case with everyone. There was one individual on here that reached out to me complaining how they messed up his order with improper paint scheme, misspellings in his "painted in" tape set.. so if you do go with them, always confirm your with picture proof that you are satisfied before shipment...

@@TheChemistDIY love the reply, thanks ! Mine is just plain classic black gloss/mate so I dont think its possible to be messed up 😅 Current Chinesium have chips missing from the air intake holes, sides of windshields cracked and chips of paint missing from the corners where tail sides touch the glossy part. All I m afraid is of there will be the same issue. I ve found sets sold for 350 but I'm willing to give even 1.000 if a brand doesn't have fitment and paint issues like the one I use atm

Well that's not very descriptive if you're looking for a solution bro.. the same can be said about dropping a bike on the freeway busting 80.. lol. At any rate, if your talking about knocking the bike over at stand still park or at a red light tip over then likely this Video should fix your issue.. chances are that top triple clamp is binding do to the bar end contact with the floor and just needs to be realigned.

Can it? Yes.. but really anything can be said to do the same about any component on the bike. You have to look at things in the broader sense: A popular explanation of how a four stroke engine works is: Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. The engine sucks in a mixture of fuel and air, then squeezes it together (compresses it), then it burns / explodes that with a bang, and finally it blows out the exhaust. So what part does the TPS do.. well it's part of the SUCK because without the correct air intake the bike is not going to start. The TPS(s) controls your butterflies which allows the correct amount air to come in during start and ride. All this is being controlled by your ECU "Mapping" which is basically like a receiver.. collecting data from its sensors (sensors), comparing it to a list (map), and then sending out what you need to keep the bike alive. During the SUCK you also have to have the correct amount of fuel. Without fuel you won't get to BANG.. SPEAKIN OF BANG! .. what lights your fire 🔥.. yup... That's right, Spark! Without a healthy flame You're basically trying to light a firework in the wind with a wet match stick.. not going to happen.. Probably not the answer you want to hear but when you put all those principles together You get an idea of what you need to check in order to get your bike to turn over and run.

8mm

Any type of wire that's used for say breadboarding circuit boards...22 gauge and above I think should cover it.. Don't quote me on that but kind of use that as a reference point

amzn.to/4aI6Amb

There is no 12 volt power cable.. this is all ground. connect a wired to any ground location.. the whole bike and all its bolts are ground.. you can even get ground from the negative side of battery if you want if you feel more comfortable. this ground wire connects to the top leg of the switch as shown in the video (Non- Gold Side if your using same switch) The center leg of the switch connects to your T-tap at the fan. All your doing is providing ground to the fan.. it already has 12v from elsewhere.

Aahhhh i seeee!!! Nice thanks i should try this! 🤙

@@dinkelone yes!..its one mod that is a must have for the hot summer.. the duel fan mod too!

@@TheChemistDIY Yeah my fan dosent work right now, but if i Connect it straight to the 12v battery it works, somebody had a switch on it before and the manual switch not working, and the fan does go on by it self either, so i try to fix it but i cant find why its not working 🤔🤔🤔 but i have a gsxr 750 2001 .. its the same with ground on both? Like in your video?

If your asking if the TPS and the STPS are the same... Yes they are. You could techanlly swap them and it work just the same after setting the correct placemement.

@@TheChemistDIY sweet yeah cause I just bought the one that's on the top still fi and the red light is on I positioned the one on the bottom to where I got the line in the middle everything is still on so I'm thinking that ones bad I did have this weird noise when turning the key on coming out of the one I replaced but that noise is gone sounds better but wasn't sure if I could buy the same sensor I just bought and use it for the one below

​@@mackenzieharmon826what code is being thrown by the ECU?

@@TheChemistDIY it was c29 but I put that first sensor in and now it's c00 with the paper clip but the fi and the red light is still on

@@mackenzieharmon826 it shouldn't be possible to have a FI light on and code that reads nothing wrong (-C00).. try pulling the battery off for a few minutes and reconnecting... yes I know the ECU doesn't hold power when the key is off.. but then again you shouldn't have a FI light on with code of 00.. lol.

Removing the fly's doesn't fix the C28 code in this instance, thus leaving the bike in limp mode. Now if the C28 code wasn't present and you just wanted to remove the fly's for more top end and laggy low end.. then yes, that would work.. in that case you might as well just remove the STVA all together and purchase the STVA eliminator.

Other two troubleshooting things you may want to look at is the clutch switch and side stand switch if the bike is not cranking. Both can be bypassed with a wire into the connectors to diagnose.