Glad to hear that, thanks!

Indeed! Lots of work!

It is a normal washer

You are right, my abilities as a player does not measure to professionals. I will work on getting some pro players to test drive the guitars!

You mean the circle cutter? I got it from the online store dictum, if my memory doesn't fail me. This one's actually the first Lacote I'm setting to make!

So glad you like the videos! Stay tuned, soon I'll post some more. As for the fiberglass, these ones I got back when I lived in Brazil, but it seems Stewmac sells some very similar ones

Don't hesitate to get in contact if you need some tips for your first guitar build. I'm happy to help!

Thank you!

Thank you very much!

😃

😮

🧐

Muchas Gracia's!

Thank you!

Thanks for the input

Hey! Thanks for your comment. Well, I actually look at it as a variation on the lattice design, but it does also resemble the fan brace, so it is indeed somewhat in between. As for my playing, you are right, I am no professional and I can't really keep my nails in order while woodworking. But there is also something else: any spruce guitar takes some time to open up, and those early recordings are really not a good representation. Then again, this is a prototype. Just a proof of concept with which I still have to do some further development. Thanks again for the comments!

Thanks so much, I am glad you liked it!

@@chriscrevelsguitars of course I hope you keep making awesome videos like this. I used to work for Marco Basses and he gave me so much insight. I really love the ways people voice their soundboards but its also interesting to learn how the sound comes from so.many places. I've heard from my 12 string extending the headstock 6 inches and creating a 2 degree difference created longer lasting harmonics and significantly changed the resonance. Is there a golden ratio to scale length and string height over the the soundboard ?

Thanks! Go ahead and show me the results when you have them! Cheers

Thank you! Actually the surface of the solera is not flat, as is the soundboard of the guitar slightly domed

Thank you so much!

Thank you!

Khaya is not easy to carve of plane. It's grain is interlocked and there is no "right" direction to work. It does finish very well and once you have a nice surface it becomes very beautiful

@@chriscrevelsguitars I'm trying to make my first guitar and the neck, back and rims are from this wood. It's been hard thinning back and rims with hand tools.

@@Txomo the upside is that you are going to end up with a beautiful instrument. Certainly thinning the back and sides, especially sides, will be the most delicate. You may want to try a scraper, or even sanding instead of a plane. The back is also annoying, but it can be left a bit thicker, as this is not the denser wood. You definitely want the sides not too thick so you don't have problems when bending

@@Txomo for the neck, I recommend a Shinto rasp, followed by sanding. If you are good with your knives, that is also a good way

@@chriscrevelsguitars thanks for the advice. I'd be happy if it ends being half the beauty than yours is.

Thanks! Glad you liked it! Greetings

Thanks! I drill the holes after the fret slots, so I am sure they will be hidden under the frets

Thanks! The first ones I admit I was very afraid of doing by hand, but now I think I have gotten used to this method

Haven't thought about a spider web, but my guess it would be somewhat like a lattice design?

It is a wonderful place to be in, I agree dearly

Sorry took some time, I had to measure it again, couldn't remember! It is 70cm long and 40cm wide. Though if I would do it again, I'd make it at least 80cm long. Cheers!

70 cm long and 40cm wide. Smaller wouldn't be adequate for guitar making. Bigger should be even better

Buenas! Esta tapa en particular se quedó algo como 2.8mm de espessura. Las barras harmônicas (las grandes), tienen 14 mm, e las pequenas empiezan con 5mm pero las esculpo hasta el tampo tenga la resposta que busco. Espero que ayude!

Hello! There are many differences in terms of design, but I would say the main difference (the most important one) is the thickness and stiffness of the top, the design of the braces and the shape and design of the bridge. The main concern is that steel strings on the acoustic have much higher tension, thus the guitar's top must be adjusted to that, being more stiff

@@chriscrevelsguitars Thanks you so much

Hey! There is now a link on the description of the video :)

Thanks

Thank you very much. It means a lot to me!

Essa era a que eu tinha à mão, sobrando. Usei ela pra não comprar mais nada, e ela estava parada mesmo. Funciona bastante bem e já completei vários instrumentos usando ela.

I've marked it to know the position of the soundhole, not really to cut the fretboard there, as you perceived. Sometimes I also make design decisions on the fly, when it is not a commission instrument.

Comments are allowed though! 😂

It is really not that hard! Just need to adjust it with the handplane and account for some loss of material when measuring. Tell me what you think after you try it!

🤙

Thank you very much!

I don't have a video on that, actually. I use a honing guide

Glad that you liked the channel! I use both handheld circle cutters and router jigs for circle cutting. The jigs I have designed myself

Gracias! La tapa és curvada a 2mm y el fondo un poquito más

iba a hacer la misma pregunta

Hi! Yes, I always use it. So much so that it is now in need of some maintenance. Good luck on your project!

Thanks! Yes, it is a lot of strain on the drill. I'm using a very powerful old drill. Would not recommend using a cordless one though.

Thank you for watching!

A lot to unpack here, but let's go. The short answer is "it's complicated": I do keep notes on the frequencies and sound of my guitars, or better yet, recordings, as the memory does not do a good job with sound quality. But those are only good so far: a guitar's sound changes over time, especially when it is very young. You are right, most of the sound of the guitar comes from the lower frequencies, but the higher harmonics make a good portion of 'timbre', if you like, because our hearing is much sensitive around that area (for distinguishing consonants in speech, for example). So quality of sound depend also in the relation on harmonics: fewer harmonics give a more 'focused 'sound, "root pure", while more harmonics sound brighter, "richer". Much of what we think of sustain is also related to harmonics. Overall, the exact frequency of the top in itself doesn't matter that much as long as it is in a specific range and not in the exact frequency of any scale notes. The efficiency of the frequencies, and relationships between them are more important.

There are some general rules of thumb, though. As we are dealing with a limited amount of energy in a pluck, it needs to go somewhere and we can't have it all: so a guitar with stronger, faster attack will normally have shorter sustain (like a flamenco). This relates to the physics of the top: a heavier top will take longer to put in motion, and 'attack slowly', but once moving, will take longer to dissipate all its energy due to its greater inertia, i.e. 'sustain' vibration for longer.

Hi Chris,@@chriscrevelsguitars Thank you again for your comments. I would like to give a sumamary on the several guitars in which I measured the first three resonances and I also played them to note the differences. Is there somewhere that I can write you about those to have your opinions also? Email, social media etc if that is also okay for you?

Hey, of course! I'm on Instagram as well, or you can email me at [email protected]

@@OkanTandogan Beautiful work. if you have published it anywhere, pl share the link, will be more than happy to see those numbers to get a feel of the modes.

Thank you very much, glad you liked it!

I have used both Titebond and Hide Glue. Nowadays I prefer the Hide Glue

Thank you, glad you like it!

Thank you!