whizzbizz

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@Patricvideos 9 күн бұрын

what power source do you use for these? and from what i noticed is the plates with the connectors have un-drilled holes so they just need to drill holes there to put the connectors inside

@arnoud-whizzbizz 9 күн бұрын

I follow my own ‘connector-idea’ here with mostly Dupont headers that take less front space. Power, see www.whizzbizz.com/en/power-module-part1

@Patricvideos 8 күн бұрын

I think that pictures would descripe better what i mean.

@Patricvideos 9 күн бұрын

the only thing i would change for the case would be that have the plugs on the left and upper side of the silberling.

@arnoud-whizzbizz 9 күн бұрын

@@Patricvideos ‘Feathers’ or plugs are way too brittle. Even the original Silberlings suffer from this…. So I would call this already the ‘improved’ version 🧐 just interconnect the Silberlings with a small red double-groove connector.

@Patricvideos 9 күн бұрын

@@arnoud-whizzbizz there were two intances were i acciedently connected them wrong and it may could have damged the modules

@sierraecho884 14 күн бұрын

Why not simply use a 3D printed front face as well, without the need of removing it. You can simply print 2 parts simultaniously, stop print, lay the one part on top of the other and continue print, done.

@arnoud-whizzbizz 14 күн бұрын

I think the answer is.... because I want to REUSE the inlay. I've printed 30+ fronts with only four of these plates now. The fun is, that I have many slightly different fronts (holes position, etc) and can use these four plates many, many times....

@sierraecho884 14 күн бұрын

@@arnoud-whizzbizz You want to keep using a 3rd placeholder part instead of not using it ? Using my method you don´t need any inlays at all, you can print all the hole patterns you want. You simply split the object in two parts, later on join the two parts and the 3d printer will fuse them. You use more parts and make it more tedious.

@arnoud-whizzbizz 14 күн бұрын

@@sierraecho884 I don't understand your comment about 'a 3rd placeholder part', but perhaps you mean to print a frame and the (slightly bigger!) recessed part side by side, pause, loosen the front-part from the bed and insert this in a rim in the (fragile!) rim and 'lock' it with the successive layers? Possible, but the frame is very thin and I'm afraid it will loosen when I try to harvest the front from the bed. Another thing is that the 'frame' is very thin, so to 'lock' the front to it after the pause, the outer rim will be very thin (in this specific case). But okay, good suggestion, perhaps not for this specific front and lid, but I'll try it in the future! Thanks!

@sierraecho884 14 күн бұрын

@@arnoud-whizzbizz ".... the (fragile!) rim and 'lock' it with the successive layers?..." Exactly, the rim shouldn´t be as fragile in this stage, because it´s still fully attached to the print bed which supports it. Yes the rim is also very thin, but you don´t need much. 0.5mm should be already enough. Main thing is you got what I meant. You are welcome. Honestly I would probably print two parts, use super glue and then attach the silver paper front with glue as well. You can also print the thin rim which will be wobbly but then instead of printing just a flat surface print a surface with a small recess lip where the rim goes inside. This will need glue again but you won´t need anything else.

@arnoud-whizzbizz 13 күн бұрын

@@sierraecho884 Got what you mean, @chipcode5538 had the same idea in the comments below. Good idea, but haven't tried because it will take redesign/splitting on STL-level. When I try it in the future, I will keep you posted!

@Rupertcreations 27 күн бұрын

Dude, try Bumbu with AMS, it will so easy to: 1) print in different colour, so you don't need a paper anymore, just print text and image in another colour. 2) use PETG-PLA trick with support. I always put 3 last support layers with petg and zero thickness to print a really good looking surface (works only with flat parts).

@arnoud-whizzbizz 26 күн бұрын

1) I understand your idea, but that resolution is way too low. And especially for these small cases this is a hard requirement for me. I even find the resolution of a silk-screen printing of PCB material for this purpose far inadequate. I also found laser engraving too coarse. But try to convince me with your photos 🙂2) You've completely missed the point. Just automating the support material feed will not save you 32% material (I've printed 50+ of these things) Further more... this dramatically slows down the printing of the recessed part. Not to mention all the wasted material that poops out off the back of your Bambu. Probably the waste will then be more than 50%.

@xXKisskerXx Ай бұрын

While everyone thinks the aluminum plate method can still work with some 'prep' like painters tape on top - the question then becomes, how reusable will it be? a tear in the tape means replacement, and the aluminum is going to be a heat sink for the incoming plastic. The PETG system seems like it is working well, and won't need as much effort to replace tape all the time. So sure, you could use some glue stick and warm the aluminum up before inserting and printing on top - and even changing the print speed at those first 2-3 layers on top of the aluminum plate, to treat it like a second bed.... but that seems like more hassle than just a PETG insert. Which for those that don't know, PETG doesn't really like to stick to anything but itself, so PLA is pretty much always gonna pop right off. PETG will absorb less heat than aluminum as well, allowing for less finnicky needs to texture or slow down to ensure the layer is going down smooth. And best of all, if a PETG plate does get ruined somehow... it's easy to just print another. (unlike a bent or marred aluminum plate)

@arnoud-whizzbizz Ай бұрын

I also think you are right. By now I have four petg plates in use and all of them have been reused several times. Although I expect warping at some point, it hasn't happened yet. I briefly considered making a part 2 of the video, but I think using a reusable petg plate is the easiest solution in practice. The tip, printing the recessed front section separately and putting it in some sort of frame at the pause, would certainly also be a possibility. But this is more complex because then there will be two print runs and one will have to experiment with the degree of overprinting after the break to sufficiently anchor the inserted plate. An additional problem is that I make many versions of these fronts, each with its own hole pattern and often print several at once. This then becomes quite an administration as to where which plate (and in what orientation!) the plates should be inserted, unless the locking edge only needs to be small.

@joell439 Ай бұрын

👍👍😎👍👍

@enyoc3d Ай бұрын

after that buildup, it's very disappointing to not see comments about the music 😎. great technique!

@arnoud-whizzbizz Ай бұрын

Haha, indeed! And also no comments yet about the text scrolling by too fast or other completely unrelated issues (as with many previous videos of mine). All meaningful comments so far! A new record! Thanks! 😁

@Smokinjoewhite Ай бұрын

I found that using aluminium or steel inserts with PLA that glue stick is the best thing to use, letting the insert heat up a little before printing also helps. PETG however is the perfect support material for PLA and you can print the insert to ensure it is the perfect size for your final part.

@peterkn2 Ай бұрын

I think your attempt using that metal piece might still work with some preparations. When I use the stop at layer height to insert magnets into my prints, I do a few things first: 1) use gluestick on the magnet's side that will be printed on 2) put the magnet on the heated plate before they're needed (to heat them up a bit) and 3) slow the printer down on that first layer. I've had decent success using these preparations. Your idea to use PETG with PLA is really good for doing that recessed printing. I think that's probably the best way since the PETG has good texture to temporarily bond to. For anyone unaware, PETG does not bond well to PLA and vice versa so you can use either to support the other.

@gruvinnz Ай бұрын

Reusable! I love it. All this time I have been using a very wasteful multi-filament changer (purge waste) and trashing the PETG part every time! Duh. Thanks!

@peverington Ай бұрын

Nice video. I’ll try to remember these techniques for when I need them. Just a thought … Spray mount glue for your printed front plates might be easier to apply than the manually applied glue you use.

@arnoud-whizzbizz Ай бұрын

Possibly... Spraying on the lid does require some masking, and if you spray the paper fronts from behind, the glue might bleed through the holes? But with the recessed areas now smooth, it might be a good idea. In the movie, I still glue the "old" fronts (printed with removed support material) in place. These have a fairly coarse surface. I'm also using a contact adhesive, which in theory makes what I'm doing (only smearing only one surface) not perfect anyway. However, I was mainly trying to use the filling properties of the glue a bit with those fronts. Further: there are obviously very few forces on the glued-in faceplate once it is glued on the recessed area. It is really only to hold it in place a bit during assembly. But, thanks for your tip!👍

@kylek29 Ай бұрын

For the insert, you could try the aluminum plate and put some blue painters tape on top. That used to be how you'd get a lot of filaments to stick before as it provides a slight-textured surface and can be peeled off after.

@arnoud-whizzbizz Ай бұрын

Okay, never tried that. Good tip! The PETG printed plates are however easier to make (on different heights). I think I'll stick (no pun intended) to that until I find out that they may e.g. warp after being used a few times. Aluminum may then perhaps be the better choice. We'll see! Thanks!

@barrazao12 Ай бұрын

@@arnoud-whizzbizz in addition to what @kylek29 has said, i think "preheating" the metal insert might help so that the next layer of pla doesn't cool too rapidly. i have worked in a 3d printing factory with blue painters tape on the bed and no bed heat at all and it was quite crazy how good the pla stuck to the blue painters tape.

@doukasphatskool9364 Ай бұрын

bravo!!

@nosenseofhumor1 Ай бұрын

Since you’re printing a lot of them, consider creating a stack of 10 connected in maybe 6 places that you can easily clip from the sides and short enough that your printer can easily bridge. Then print the whole set on a side.

@arnoud-whizzbizz Ай бұрын

I understand your idea of the stack to give it enough support on the bed at all. And it is in itself a tantalizing idea good to see if indeed you cannot print such a lid standing up (with less or no support material). But I don't think you can, because in this particular case you will have to support the screw legs all the way from the bed, for example, right?

@nosenseofhumor1 Ай бұрын

@@arnoud-whizzbizz chamfer the legs such that there’s no direct 90 deg overhang and you’re good!

@arnoud-whizzbizz Ай бұрын

@@nosenseofhumor1 See what you mean. Thanx for the idea!

@Teckstudio Ай бұрын

Excellent video with some good points! So far I mostly used the variant where you split in half and later glue on the "frame". This never really works well without guideance. 😥 Your idea with the PETG "spacer" is great, I will try out this the next time. Also, what @chipcode5538 suggested sounds even better ... a shame I didn't come up with that myself! 🤩

@gorgonbert Ай бұрын

Cool idea… thanks for sharing 🙏

@chipcode5538 Ай бұрын

Hi, whizz bizz. Try the following, I did it in the past and it works like magic. Design your part as two separate prints. Print the plate first. Stop the print at the correct point and drop in the plate. Let the print finish. Now it looks like you printed the plate in mid air.

@arnoud-whizzbizz Ай бұрын

Maybe I don't quite understand what you mean. The border around it is quite thin, but you could print a thin frame in here that you could then put a pre-printed (recessed) front in during a printer stop, but then you would have to overprint it with at least a few layers before that is fixed, right? After all, on the back side there are also the screw tubes.... With a (universal, reusable) plate, you can print the front, except for the temporary stop, in one go.

@chipcode5538 Ай бұрын

@@arnoud-whizzbizz Yes this is exactly that I used, like a picture frame, put in the plate and print the remaining parts on top.

@arnoud-whizzbizz Ай бұрын

@@chipcode5538 Although it is not simple to do in the slicer and requires modification of your STL files, it is certainly a good idea. I guess in this case (thin edge) I would then overprint at least half the thickness of the deeper (then floating) part after the stop to properly embed the support plate into the print?

@PeterPetermann Ай бұрын

if you use petg to support pla or pla to support petg, it will separate quite easy

@arnoud-whizzbizz Ай бұрын

Exactly, you can of course use this method even if you can change filament while printing. PETG easily detaches from PLA, while the PLA still has good adhesion during printing.

@rsmeaton Ай бұрын

I have some experience putting metal parts into 3d prints, and a little gluestick on the top surface of your aluminum will help immensely with adhesion. EDIT: Wrote this before watching the whole video and yeah, PETG works a lot better. But if you ever need to insert a metal part. Glue stick is what got me the best results

@arnoud-whizzbizz Ай бұрын

Sounds great. However, my experiences with glue stick were the complete opposite. I experimented with it once when PETG just wouldn't come off the printer bed. Just to reduce adhesion! It took a very thorough cleaning of my printer bed plate before I could print on it somewhat normally with PLA again.

@ravanwijk Ай бұрын

Fantastic video! Ha ha .... you're definitely not the only one experimenting with this! There is a second Dutch guy working this! My approach is a little different bij printing the border on the box rather than the faceplate. Still work in progress but already some nice results. Keep up the experimenting 🙂

@arnoud-whizzbizz Ай бұрын

Thanx. Yep, I've seen your results and they are great! I think this 45x75mm 'Silberling' is an excellent test case (no pun intented) for this. The protruding edge around is quite slim and you're forced to be creative because there are screw feet behind on one side of the recessed panel. Keep me posted about your ideas and results!

@i_love_yura Ай бұрын

clever

@Patricvideos 2 ай бұрын

The gray Motors need 6Volts max

@Patricvideos 2 ай бұрын

13:55 there a documentation from the early 70s / late 60s from fischertechnik and it even wasn't like this format

@arnoud-whizzbizz 2 ай бұрын

Don't understand what you mean, I fear.... Do you refer to a moment in the video?

@Patricvideos 2 ай бұрын

@@arnoud-whizzbizz yes indeed the construction Part putting the circuit in the box

@acs-system6452 3 ай бұрын

It is 6,8volts and bellow to 6 volts

@Visualmotionpro 4 ай бұрын

This is amazing!

@Nagermax 4 ай бұрын

Which Fischertechnik kit did you use?

@arnoud-whizzbizz 4 ай бұрын

None, only the basic elements. I do still think it would be a great idea for fischertechnik to make a kit like this. I can help :-)

@Nagermax 4 ай бұрын

@@arnoud-whizzbizz That would be a great idea. Do you have instructions on which parts to use? Thanks again for the video. Been looking for something like this!

@arnoud-whizzbizz 4 ай бұрын

@@Nagermax Don't have a complete list, but the seperate parts are quite easy to find on sites that sell the seperate parts. Only thing I made myself is the slider-bridge: www.printables.com/model/317251-slider-gatebridge-stone-for-fischertechnik

@paulcottington 5 ай бұрын

Hello Enjoying your KZfaq videos. Was wondering are the any plans to translate the book to english?

@arnoud-whizzbizz 5 ай бұрын

I know the authors personally, but I am not one of them 😁 What I know from it, is that the publisher does not (yet) think there is a market for that. Perhaps you can ask them and let them know your potential interest: dpunkt.de/produkt/bauen-erleben-begreifen-fischertechnik-roboter-mit-arduino/

@lsfrare 5 ай бұрын

I want to buy one of these resistance boxes to use it in the 0.1R and 1R ranges. Are they accurate? The AliExpress page claims that the product has 1% precision (I hardly doubt)

@givenfirstnamefamilyfirstn3935 6 ай бұрын

Thanks.

@kopodgorski 6 ай бұрын

Beautiful journey from planning through concept, design and build phases! Thank you!

@avichalid5604 6 ай бұрын

Do you have a link to the R and C decade board?

@arnoud-whizzbizz 6 ай бұрын

I found them when searching on 'programmable decade box' on e.g. AliExpress

@youtubeviewer7077 7 ай бұрын

Neat idea. Your background music sounds like the soundtrack to a sex scene from an 80's movie.

@arnoud-whizzbizz 7 ай бұрын

You got me… Electronics is my second carreer…. 😂 (Actually it's more probably from a 'Sax' scene, perhaps?)

@aurigo_tech 10 ай бұрын

If signals are not defined by their left or right position, but by the fact if they are "in" or "out" then some of these mechanisms get even simpler. Like the inverter could just be a straight rod? Pushed in on the input side (0) - pushed out the output (1). Pulled out on input side (1) - pulled in on output side (0).

@flying-birdsproduction2417 10 ай бұрын

Hi, for some reason after every dialing it won't play the song and the message comes: DFPlayer: Time Out! But the dial tone plays when I pick up the hook.

@willslingwood 11 ай бұрын

This is exactly what I need for a project I’m working on! I had the idea and thought I’d never find a KZfaq tutorial… but here it is! Thank you!

@arnoud-whizzbizz 11 ай бұрын

Thanks! I'm currently developing a modulair 'Retrophone Switchboard', so you can also use telephones with push buttons. For more info, stay tuned to my channel (various movies are planned), or take a look at www.whizzbizz.com/en/retrophone-switchboard-for-vintage-telephones

@willslingwood 10 ай бұрын

@@arnoud-whizzbizzamazing! I’m a visual artist from Ireland, trying my hand at electrickery for a project I’m working on. This will all help me so much, dankjewel!

@philiparnaudov9001 Жыл бұрын

the 2 unused connections are the spi bus, given 2 outputs by Arduino, basically analog 4 and 5

@benjaminparker5044 Жыл бұрын

This video was amazing, and very informative. Everything was very well explained and demonstrated.

@derwastl Жыл бұрын

Cool Video, I was thinking about to Build a Full adder with fischertechnik!

@arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

I know that there are more people that tried to make combined functions, but the plain mechanical 'fan-out' is <1, so cascading outputs to inputs is a challenge. You might of course, try to use height energy (gravity: e.g. rolling balls, strings with weights, etc) or loaded mechanical force (springs or elastic bands, etc) in some way? Keep me posted! 🧐

@Jerseylance1 Жыл бұрын

Nice video, but what about controlling servos?

@arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

The joystick just sends an analog value between 0 and 1024. You might take a look at a Sketch that includes the "Servo.h" library and/or use an Adafruit MotorShield like the one in my other video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ptZ9odulp6zVZqM.html to make the servo move on the receiving end.

@fischertechnik-seilbahn Жыл бұрын

This guy is incredible creaticve and energizing. Thanks for your surprize and the great figgures.

@jgfishz1zz1 Жыл бұрын

Interesting, haven't seen Fischertecnik in about 25 years when I played with them when I was young

@arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

I was also surprised when I discovered that it is still being made (for me several years ago). I played with it a lot in the 1970s and 1980s, and now many 'Makers' use it for prototyping and product development because it has significant 'industrial' advantages over eg Lego Technic.

@jgfishz1zz1 Жыл бұрын

@@arnoud-whizzbizz yeah I found it a lot of fun as a child, the novelty of motorizing things was really cool. Seems lego did not do it till later on though I could be wrong. It was a simpler and quicker system for building models.

@arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

@@jgfishz1zz1 Lego Technic indeed came later and Lego has now stopped with its 'Mindstorms', while fischertechnik has always embraced automation and electronics over the years.

@jgfishz1zz1 Жыл бұрын

@@arnoud-whizzbizz I remember mindstorms now from computer class

@hmwgoossens Жыл бұрын

Hi, nice silberlins, but where did you get the 3.5 bushes for the connectors?

@arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

You mean the '2.5mm' connection sockets? I think I already answered to that by mail last week? Yep, I'm the same 'Arnoud' 😁These sockets are 12mm, M3 'Hollow Rivets' from China, that I widened to 2.5mm after melting them into the 3D printed front. Will make a page (perhaps a video) about the solutions for fischertechnik sockets I've come up with so far. Let me experiment with one recent 'discovery', then I'll post it here or on whizzbizz.com, ok?

@mathmeetsmachines Жыл бұрын

Great project! One could use the various synchronous motors that Rüdiger, me and some others developed in the past years.

@arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

You mean with a controller that is able to make different AC-frequencies in order to play with the different rpm ratios? For the Rose-figures (where a mirror could be mounted directly) this will do, but perhaps the torque will not be sufficient...? Another thing is that they need to be started manually and that you need really nice sinus-waves (no PWM or block from a TXT-/micro-controller) to do the Lissajous figures (my next stop). I thought up a solution for this, but this is still in the experimental phase 🧐

@mathmeetsmachines Жыл бұрын

I would guess that the torque of my original synchronous motor suffices to drive a 1:4 transmitted axle (turns faster).

@arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

@@mathmeetsmachines Yeah, ok, see what you mean. Kinda sine wave gearbox, haha.... Great idea, because it will give nice sinus waves for Lissajous figures. Have to amplify them though (symmetrically). For my other solition I already made a symmetrical amplifier on a breadboard, that perhaps could be fit into a 'Silberling'-housing. This would be an alternative way!

@Johannes00 Жыл бұрын

Eeeeugh! IEC gates?? Horrible!

@tonoreyes7077 Жыл бұрын

se puede utilizar el bluetooth HC-06 y el puente H L298P

@arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

Let me translate, you're saying "HC-06 bluetooth and L298P H-bridge can be used". That's great!

@mathmeetsmachines Жыл бұрын

The 3D printed Z50 is very nice. I made a Z25 and a variety of other gears from cardbord more than 10 years. This works surprisingly well, but 3D printed gears are even nicer, of course.

@arnoud-whizzbizz Жыл бұрын

I saw it in your ft:pedia 1/2012 article about that ('Zahnrad.eps'). Keep an eye on the next ft:pedia for details about my workflow for 3D printed gears 🙂

@mathmeetsmachines Жыл бұрын

Very nice video! The lever does not put energy into the gate. That is a noticable difference to the transistor in electronic gates.

@stekarenhd6911 Жыл бұрын

This is so cool, I wish I understood what was going on so I could make a phone like this play an album

@benjamin.schreiber Жыл бұрын

Great video, thanks a lot! 👏 In KZfaq app on my iPhone I can select subtitles and then „auto-translate“ which works very well for me! 👌

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