Thanks, x player, I'm really glad it was helpful!!

Oh, that is so nice to hear! Thank you, sergiou, for letting me know!!

This is a much more complicated one, but the process is the same for a single light slot, basic LED light base: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gLuVmsSjrdW9fmg.html

Yes, I love them! I have so many now, though, I'll have to give some away. Do you want one?

Hi Ron, great to see you!!

Thanks, kkoors, I will definitely get some and try it!! I'm getting ready to order some. Can I use this on wood?

@@GreylightMay I generally don't put cleaners on wood. I premask them to protect the non-engraved area and then do a light cleanup pass with the laser to clean up the engraved area, if needed.

Thanks, kkoors!

Thanks, Decks! I actually asked Omtech about this because they recommended it but I saw some discussion online about it. They said that diluted at this ratio was safe. I also saw people talking about adding antifreeze instead of having climate control but I decided against that after a lot of reading. Hard to know who to believe! I will do more research on this, and thank you for giving me a heads up!!

@@GreylightMay , I have been using straight distilled water for about 6 months, no algae. I think being closed loop prevents it for the most part, but I will be changing it every 6 months or so. I'll let you know what I see when I dump the current tank.

It would be great if that works, and I'd really appreciate you letting me know. Thanks Decks!

Thanks, you too!

Thanks, James, glad it was helpful!

Sanjana, I don't sell anything I design or make, I just make educational videos. Thank you for asking, though!

Drurigney, a swatch traditionally is a small square of fabric cut from a bolt of cloth that acts as a sample. THESE squares are samples of strokes that are used repeatedly in the mandala. A little later in the video you see how they are used because the eyedropper picks up the properties of a swatch and applies them to the active path you are drawing. The squares/swatches start out with two obvious properties: a color and a thickness. Different colors and thicknesses are used for each layer. I show adding the third property, which is how the stroke is aligned with the path: centered, on the inside and on the outside. Which of these you will use is based on the shape and the effect you want. The advantage of this setup is when you use a shape tool to draw a path it will start with a default color, thickness and alignment. While it is selected you can use the eyedropper to set the appropriate color and thickness for the layer and your preferred alignment with one click. It is a real productivity tool.

Daddio, I used to have a website with a store where I gave away files but I just couldn't keep up with it all. I took that down two years ago. Now I just focus on doing projects and making videos and I STILL don't have enough time! I'm supposed to be retired, you know!!

Hmmm, I didn't check a circle. Do you mean one dimension of the circle is smaller than the other? Is it the x or the y?

@@GreylightMay Both x and y were both off by 1mm. Other than that, they appeared to be equal. I used a 100mm circle and the circle was about 99mm, maybe a little less. Kind of hard to measure a circle though. Might have to ingrave a horizontal and vertical line to be more precise.

Yes, that is odd because you would think that if you did a square and it was accurate, a circle engraved inside the square would be accurate as well. I would try cutting a square and vector engraving a circle with the same x/y dimensions and a shared center point. If the circle is smaller then I would ask the laser cutter's manufacturer why, because it wouldn't seem to be a calibration problem at that point. Very mysterious!

Excellent question! I should have. They don't actually spin, if they did they wouldn't hold the number. They turn easily, but if the magnet is inset far enough (which it was), the wood touches and there is enough friction to hold the number in place. I definitely should have demonstrated that!

That's great to hear, thanks for letting me know!

You're very welcome 😊

Jonathan, it's been a very long time since I've played DAI! I made these videos when I first started my channel and people complained that it was too confusing to mix making videos and videogames videos, so I split into two channels, and then finally just focused on making. Did you see this one on equipping: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q62aY7B9y-C-aHk.html The last 4 of the 10 lessons are on my dormant Greylight Games channel. My memory is that it is a continuous toggling through process, and it is similar still today in new games. Speaking of which, when you are done with DAI, checkout Baldur's Gate 3. It is the only game I've found that I love even more than DAI!!

@@GreylightMay thank you! I hadn't seen the other dormant channel - will check it out! I know with DAI... I am like 10 years behind the times lol. And yes to BG3! I plan on upgrading to a PS5 after I finish DAI - that is first on my list, and will hopefully hold me over until the next DAI drops. Thanks so much for replying - I really appreciate it. 🙂

@@GreylightMay thank you so much! (and yes, playing DAI now and like ten years behind the times 🤣). I had not seen the other one on equipping - will check it out and watch the dormant channel - many thanks. Yes to BG3! - I am planning on upgrading to a PS5 after I finish DAI and that will be first on my list. Hopefully it will hold me over until the next DA drops. I really appreciate you getting back to me and for making these channels. started playing at 51, now 53 and hooked. (of course, grew up on Atari etc. but had not played a vid game in decades - your channel is super helpful). many thanks!

You will love BG3! The story, the characters and the voice acting make it a real joy to play. The turn based fighting is different from DAI, but I really enjoy that strategy is key to winning the battle, not reflexes and memorizing a complicated series of button pushes like so many games nowadays. I like having romance as part of the game, and the options there are good as well. I just read that BG3 is the first ever game to win all five game of the year awards, and it really deserves it!!

@@GreylightMay thanks! I'm going to try the Trespasser DLC if i finish before the end of the summer. Looks good! But then it's on to BG3 for sure. Thanks again!

Welcome, Andrew, I'm so glad you found me!!

Thanks, MsGnor! This is one of my favorite projects, and I keep it on the shelves in my studio, where I can see it every day.

Yes, Martin, I found exactly the same thing with Dalle 3. And unlike text oriented LLMs like Claude, which I work with a lot, you can't keep refining the prompt and get better and better results. Dalle 3 just hits a wall, like when I tried to get 8 reindeer on Santa's sleigh in my Christmas video. I've decided I need to wait for the next version of Dalle before I try again. So frustrating when it can make a beautiful multilayer design but it just can't separate it!!

@@GreylightMay thanks for the answer. Yea I've been using AI , chat GPT and Midjourney since day 1. The pro versions, I think they are a long way of for this. It would be great to use this as a tool.

Congratulations on your new machine, Cheri! You will love it. I'm so glad you found my channel!

Wow, that's two comments on this video in two days, which is great. It's kind of a niche topic, I'm really glad it was helpful. Thanks for letting me know!!

Yes! I bought all my blanks on Amazon, and they were very inexpensive. I found some nice ivory colored ones that look great with just black paint, though any strong contrast colors would work. I'm glad if this inspires you to give it a try!

Wow, wonderful!! One of my favorite comments ever. There is no greater compliment than someone trying what I show and then letting me know that it worked. I really appreciate it!

Yes, it's not often I get the chance to just test things without the pressure of producing a finished project. I quite enjoyed it!

Thank you, Ron!

Fabalass, if you can get a clear photo of the house, without trees, it will always have perspective because that is what an eye or camera lens sees. The problem in this picture is the trees obscuring the roofline. I had to use the bits I could see and my knowledge of how the roofline would angle in with perspective to draw in the missing parts. This is really the 'art' part of the project, and it doesn't need to be perfect to look good. Without the problem of the trees, you could just trace a front photo of any house and the perspective view would be built in.

You are welcome, Natasa!

Dave, it was not to scale. Closer to a cinder block than a brick, I would say. Good question!

​@GreylightMay thank you so much. I'm just starting to try modeling using my 80watt co2 laser and I've found that I can scale HO bricks okay but anything smaller like N scale is not clean. Thanks again. 😃

Thanks, inscrutable! Another kind viewer told me about paste in place too, and it really speeds things up! I love how the Internet helps us all help each other. It makes learning new things so much easier!!

One of my favorite comments ever! To know I've inspired someone to create and have fun, doesn't get much better than that!! Thanks, spacecenter, for letting me know!!!

@GreylightMay I would say that the laser cutter is nothing short of transformative. I have 3D printers, a foam cutter, and other tools. But the laser has proven itself to be a real workhorse: Good speed, reasonable cost of materials, and a very forgiving and simple usage. Thank you again for all your effort!

I have other equipment too, but I always gravitate to the laser cutter for the reasons you describe. It is truly addictive. Have fun! I'd love to see a picture of something you make for your classes!! Sometime, when you make something you really love, snap a picture and send it to me at [email protected]. It would really make my day!!

Wow, Tara, thank you! I put a lot of time into it, and I really appreciate you letting me know it was helpful. That means a lot!!

What a nice comment! I'm so glad it was helpful, thanks for letting me know!!

Ramona, my understanding is that it should have no problem with white fabric, especially if it has a matte finish. White wood, for example, works fine. It seems to be acrylic that is the real problem for the blue laser. A reflective material sometimes interferes with the autofocus, I hear, so a shiny white fabric might have some issues there. I myself haven't tested fabric on this laser yet, but I've been impressed with how clean the cuts are, with little to no smoke marks. That would be important for patches. I would send an email to the WeCreat support address to ask this question specifically. I'm sure they've tested most materials.

Oh no! I'm so sorry you are having this problem. As just one of the over 70 different KZfaq content creators they sent machines to, I don't have a way to contact them other than their online support page, but I will try to help. Did they send you any documentation for how to install the new unit? Here is my email: [email protected] As I said in my video, I'm not a techie, but I can act as a second pair of eyes. Let's take this conversation to email, and see if we can get your machine up and running! Update: I just sent an email to support asking for information and the replacement module they sent you so I have something to work with. Hopefully they will be responsive!

@@GreylightMay thank you for the reply, No-absolutely nothing in writing came with the replacement Laser unit module...it was beautifully packed but no instructions. Studying the machine, I see where the angle bracket which was in the box is mounted in the far left of the Rail which holds the Laser Module. That piece had no part in the removal of the laser...so didn't think it was a part in the laser install. My install of the laser had the plug-in/play connection which runs with the length of the rail as the laser moves-doing it's job. That cable [that's what I call it, but it is not identified in any of the manual's info] was originally secured by some heavy duty black tape like band aid tape, which I had to remove when taking out the original defective laser unit. Now that connection has to be plugged back into the new Laser Module, I don't know that its as it should be, I got no direction [though I have reached out to the team for help-just no reply yet]. Has anyone gotten a break through in resolving the problems I am having? The thus far, as I have installed it, laser won't even project a red beam. HELP! If anyone can give me assistance, I want this WeCreat unit [which I purchased 2/10/24 and has yet to be able to make a project like I see everyone else is doing-so envious!]

Colorado, I think if I were in your position I would tell them you want to return the laser cutter for a full refund. Maybe that will get their attention and you will get the support you need. If not, you will have your money back and you can choose whether or not you want to order another one. I have just checked my email, and they have not responded to me yet. Getting support from China is very problematic, as you said, for time zone reasons - always day long delays. Could you send the link to what they have posted about how to remove the laser module? I haven't been able to locate that. My understanding is that you did that in reverse and it doesn't work. Perhaps the problem is more than just the module itself, which is why returning it may be the right answer. You should not be expected to be able to repair your machine!

Hi Colorado! I got a response back from WeCret with the link to "how to replace the laser module" support.wecreat.com/hc/en-us/articles/9124065920015-How-to-Replace-the-Laser-Module I think this is what you did to remove yours, and you did these steps in reverse to put the new one in? And not even the red laser pointer works? They say they are planning to make a video, but no promise of when that might be.

Thanks so much, Ron!

Actually, Evan, I was thinking of gifting it to my son!

Thank you so much!!

Bill, good catch! The difference is bidirectional fill vs unidirectional. This is an option in Lightburn, and I believe it is the default fill method. I never even noticed the Vision wasn't doing it. So far, I can't find an option to change it. I will ask WeCreat, and if it's not there, when it will be added. Thanks, a really great question!!

Thanks, cyborg! Not sure what it says about me, that I like it. Just a strange sense of humor, I guess 🙂. At least I know there will never be another screen in the world like it! I hope I get a chance to use it, one day. I'd be curious to see how long it would take for someone to tell me my dragon was messed up!!

It means you flip your design over so when you engrave it and use it with the engraving side down, the design seen through the acrylic is correct. You can do this with clear, transparent and mirrored acrylic. Engraving the back side of neon transparent acrylic puts the engraving closer to the dark background behind it, making it pop more. Engraving the back of clear acrylic for edgelit acrylic reduces ghosting when it is lit. I think you are always supposed to engrave and cut mirrored acrylic from the back. The only part of the process that is different is remembering to flip the design, especially if there is something obviously directional, like text.

@@GreylightMay ah ofc :) i was just slow, dident think about having to mirror it. Was thinking just begrave, cut and flip it, as its transparent

I can say from experience, I don't always remember!

Hayden, can you engrave an aluminium block? I can't with my CO2 laser, so I can't answer from experience, but if you can create a channel in the aluminium, resin should behave in that channel the same way. If you try it, please let me know how it turns out!

That IS quite a coincidence! Unfortunately, medievalwizard, I don't actually make anything for sale. I barely have enough time to make tutorials, so that's what I focus on. Do you have access to a laser cutter? If you do, you can absolutely make these yourself, they are a great starter design project!

@@GreylightMay Unfortunately I do not, but, it was a good try to ask. Thanks for the great tutorial.

Thanks for letting me know!

I'm glad it was helpful. Hopefully there aren't too many other problems!

My understanding is you do not need to be connected but I didn't test that because I was always online. There is support for everything through their website but they are in China, so I am not sure how fast their response is. Thanks for the comment, I'm glad this was useful!

Thank you, jharper, for letting me know. It's nice to know the review was helpful!

What a nice compliment, thank you!

Such a nice comment, thank you! It's really nice to know my efforts are worthwhile. I really appreciate it!!

Thank you Ron!!!!

Thanks, ScreemBean! Have you seen my prior dice video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z7N-psqAldeuf4U.html The process should be the same, the experiments would be around materials and masking. I did engrave these through masking paper, to make them easy to paint. I will have to test if that works on the diode. That is a great project idea, because dice engraving is a popular topic and the diode laser is a great fit if I find a good solution for the wavelength issue!

@@GreylightMay Yes!! it's the first video of yours I watched. I was looking to see if i could engrave dice myself for my small business (after a manufacturer did a poor job) and at the time I could find plenty of tutorials about engraving wooden dice, but I prefer acrylic - I was very happy to find your channel!

I'm making a note to look for leftover blanks in my supply cabinet, and I'll put dice on my project list. It may take a couple months, but I will definitely run some tests and share the results!