The bolts, spacers, and eyebolts for the ailerons are easy to install into the completed assembly. There's a hole in the end rib to put the bolt in with an extension. Don't need to reach the other side since there are nut plates. I did mine that way and it was no big deal. I agree it's confusing they reference those parts in the wing KAI. But they are in the finishing kit and very straightforward. I'm a little surprised Sling didn't explain that when you ordered the parts. I'd recommend finishing the ailerons so you can get the entire wing assembly wrapped up. Two other things: Highly recommend gluing those strips to the underside of the wing spar before assembly. I used dots of JB Weld. Enough to hold them in place before the rivets are set. Makes life a lot easier putting that together. Finally, I've had zero issues with my Milwaukee gun pulling the large rivets, including 4.8 and SS. In fact I like it better than the air tool for the large rivets. I leave the 3.2 nozzle in my air riveter since those are the high volume ones. Agree it's faster although I don't know about 4x. 😀

Thank you for sharing this experience, how long wait was the order to shipment?

Hello chubby friend haha

加油👏

How important is it to epoxy the rivnuts? I see that you pretty much always epoxy rivnuts. I am looking for further knowledge on this.

Very cute! They do that typically to warn other squirrels of danger! Thanks for sharing! ❤🐿

Thanks for posting progress - I am far from starting a build, but gathering info on how to. I also run into this video recently posted - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nsmXq6Z6rpyuoHU.html - and I am in between if to use prime painting inside or not.

Hi Greg did you prime with the Transtar 6183 that you mentioned in a previous video? Rattle can? Would you still recommend it for aircraft?

Beware of the barking squirrel. 😂

After comparing the two aircraft, despite the higher initial cost, I'm purchasing the Sling TSI first!

Nice videos. Thank you for putting then together. I see your internal parts are primed. What are you using for the primer? Is it rust-oleum rattle can self-etching or something else? Also, how is the finish holding up to the “build beating”?

Ahhhh - good memories of me making my first "why I am building Sling".. Nice overview!

I’ve noticed in a few other sling tsi builders videos, they use 4 rectangular tables/ workbenches to work on. Do you have a recommended size for the tables or is there a forum that speaks about them? Just looking to get more info as I prepare for my kit to arrive. Also do you park Tesla out side the garage and then run the charging cable under the door?

Lower quality aluminum???? They use mostly 2024-T3 with Alclad, which is a much higher quality aircraft aluminum than is used on some other manufactures' models -- and is far LESS likely to corrode without any additional protection. Where did you get your misinformation from?

How would someone navigate to this page? Is there a portal that sling or TAF will allow you access to?

Thank you for your good videos

Deburred holes before riveted?

Congrats!!!! The first rivets are very special!! Only 20.000 left.. 😂👍👍

I've been enjoying watching your build videos. In my experience, I use a fresh red scotch brite and isopropyl alcohol BEFORE dimpling to clean and achieve the mechanical etch. 320 sandpaper might be too aggressive, especially on a power wheel. Using the scotch brite before dimpling allows the area around the rivet to also get etched. Otherwise you are skipping the entire dimple and it will have no etch. Just my 2 cents... Keep up the good work!

Shouldn't this countersink be done with the dimple die since it's sheetmetal?

I'm curious to know the difference between the aluminum you speak of between the two and how you got this information. Mostly Kaiser 2024-T3 aluminum in both kit types. Why is one better than the other? Corrosion is usually an issue in bonding different types of material together. Such as aluminum against steel. It's not the quality of aluminum.

Nice job! I considered making a comparison video like this, but didn't want to get bogged down in arguments with RV owners in the comments. 😆 Bottom line, they're both fine airplanes, as you say. Here's a few points I might add, for anyone else deciding between these two planes: Build and cost: While it's true (or at least WAS true) that the basic Vans kit is cheaper, it takes more hours to complete. If one wanted to compare apples-to-apples, the Vans "quick build" kit takes the same number of build hours to complete as the Sling "slow build" kit. So, if you compared the Vans quick build kit price to the Sling slow build kit price, their cost advantage disappears. And for those going with build-assist, those extra hours the RV-10 build takes will translate into extra dollars. Plus, as you mentioned, the Sling kit is more complete. Once you buy popular third-party interior kits (seats, sidewall upholstery, center throttle quadrant, overhead, etc.) and other options that most RV-10 builders buy to modernize the look of their plane (wing tips, cowling, etc.), you're spending far more on the Vans. And finally, with their recent 30% increase of kit prices, there's no longer any way anyone can say an RV-10 will be cheaper, even without the third-party options. Performance: RV-10 owners will remind you that they can decrease their fuel burn down to 10 - 11gph by running LOP. That's true, but then their cruise speed will be more in the 155 KTAS range, pretty close to the Sling TSi at ECO power. Conversely, a Sling TSi pilot can run at max continuous power and cruise at 165 - 170 KTAS (in the high teens) while still burning only 10.5 - 11gph . So, pretty darn close in terms of cruise performance. Also, while the RV-10 shows a higher initial ROC on a SL standard day, the Sling TSi's turbo means we'll do better in hot & high conditions, and will retain our ROC better as we go up in altitude. So again, in real-world, pretty much a wash. At the end of the day, you'll end up with an awesome airplane whichever way you go. Happy building!

Looking good! I noticed by the time you did the main wing box, you were wearing gloves. Good call - that metal around the crates gets to be very sharp!

💖 *promosm*

I can see that the hand squeezer is WAY easier to line up the holes, and therefore quicker. Any chance you could normalize the music volume with your voice volume on future videos? You speak pretty softly, but then the music comes in and blows out my ears.

You can dimple without pulling the plastic film away. Works fine and the rivets fit OK after pulling the film off later. I have my empannage and wings done doing them all that way. Evan talks about this in his videos. Hopefully you are reviewing those during your build. I've found them a gold mine. You're more patient than me only pulling part of the film like that. Wait until you get into the size of the wing skins. I agree the film may provide a little bit of protection for scratches or whatever. But I've found the skins are easy to dent. That's the main thing you need to guard against and the plastic won't help.

Can't wait for my kit to arrive next month!

Congratulations! Great job for just you, one person to get all boxes to your garage! You must be excited and ready to start building! More vedios coming? My quick build kit is coming in May.