Did you understand how to make it move? I didn't

No, as they are harder to change AFAIK. They would need changing the bumper and maybe some programming. Plus I like them more than I liked the round signature taillights. Round signature LED in taillights was constantly reminding me of the 2011/2 design of first Evoque. Somehow dated

I haven't looked for it, sorry.

Stock ones don't fit. Connectors need changing on both ends with 4x12pin pairs from Aliexpress, or elsewhere. Unless you find the originnal 4 2020MY ones on the car's end and replace just those. I couldn't, so bought 4 pairs and replaced on both ends - car's and headlight's end. It's pretty invasive but I am using the setup over a year now without problems and I am very happy. Makes the car look way more modern.

Thank you.@@klisurski

I closed the case trough the chat support and told them how I fixed it, so they could recommend it to other customers with the same problem

​@@klisurski Thank you for your update regarding this matter. Rest assured your feedback will be taken seriously for improvement. Thank you for your support.

More to come, soon

It's in the title-2015. I believe it should be the same for 2017, unless you don't have the Xenon package, then you'd have halogen bulbs.

I bought new 12pin connectors, marked each wire first, then cut the old connectors and crimped the new pins for the new connectors, as they differed in size.

Original ones from 2020 breaker car from ebay with LR logo. LG is the maker

Glad it was helpful!

Original ones from 2020 breaker car from ebay with LR logo. LG is the maker

4k resolution, 25fps, istabilize off, the rest on auto, but it was mounted on an active gimbal, hence the good picture

@@klisurski true, do you think exposure matters too much? because idk how to mess around there

There is some stabilization, but it is far from what's available with the top brands as GoPro

On the thermostat back: 1.Brown with white stripe- temperature setting 2. Grey with red stripe- status/error 3.Brown-Ground(-Ve) 4. N/A 5. Red +Ve 12v input-should come from the main thick red wire from the loom 6. Yellow- 12v output to the heater. When knob is On 5 is bridged to 6 On the fuel pump: 1.Brown - Ve 2. Green with yellow- pulse from ecu Thick Red= Fused 12V +Ve to battery Thick Brown= - Ve to battery/common

I made it to start, but when i bridge yellow and red wire the pump starts after 10 second, it clicks about 8 times and then everything shuts down. The fan never starts spinning. Any ideas? I connected 2 car batteries in series to get 24 volts, batteries are both 65ah

@@EdiNaumov are you sure that your is 24V version? If it is 12v version and you use 24v you will destroy the ecu. If the fan does not spin at all it is either physically blocked, or motor/brushes are gone, or ECU is gone(the worst option). Usually a bad sign. If someone switched the main red and brown leads could have burned the ECU. You could unplug the fan leads from the ecu and use standard 9v battery on the fan leads to check if it spins. Then write back. Where are you located?

@@klisurski I bought it second hand so i don't know what they've done with it, i unplugged the fan and powered it with a 12v car battery and it started spinning. So i mounted everything again. Thats what i've done: i connected battery + to Red, battery - to brown, bridged the yellow cable with the red one that goes to the battery too, the pump is connected to red and green and the other end to the brown cable that also goes to battery negative. On the yellow and red cable bridge i installed a switch, when i plug the 2 power wires, the battery remains at 24.8 volts with a consuption of 0.3 amps , when i togle the switch (on), the battery voltage drops to 24.1 and the consuption goes up to 11 amps, after 10/15 seconds the pump makes a few clicks, white smoke goes out of the exhaust but the fan is not spinning and then everything looks to be shut down, the battery goes up again at 24.8 volts and 0.3 amps consuption. (Sorry for the bad english, im in Italy but i'm Bulgarian) Thank you in advance!

Im sure it is 24 volts because thats what the target on the Eberspacher says: 22 watt 24volt.

Не, но може да питаш тук

Shockblaze skin elite race 26 2015,2016 като вашта рамка ли е видях че сте писали че ъгъла на вилката бил друг и какъв размер е била вашта вилка.

Търся си ендуро баик и ми предложиха тази рамка.

Вилката беше 160мм ход fox 36. Мисля че тези рамки ги произвеждат до 2014. Не знам да има 2015 и 2016 модел. Има по-стар модел ~2012 който е леко различна кобилицата. Като цяло ги правят Astro Engineering Ttaiwan/Vetnam които правят рамките за много известни марки и рамката е приятна за ендуро, но не мисли че има рамка която не се чупи, особено ако взимаш сериозно ползвана 5г рамка-алуминия се уморява.

Yep. That's the blue cable that you see there connected to the Common negative of the D250

Hi, all negatives should be common. In the best case you should have 3 negative wires connected to the CTEK minus- one from the Starter battery, one from the leisure battery and one from the solar panel. Yes the thin black wire goes to the Leisure battery if it is AGM. I returned my unit-it had some problem. The support was great though. I later decided to go LiIon anyway and this unit doesn't support lion. Also it has limitation on the voltage of the sloar input that doesn't support bigger solar panels(not very clearly stated when I was buying it-just a line in the manual).

kosio86 Great to hear that you have sorted and solved the problem, Cheers

It is definately a device I would recommend in case you have smaller solar panel/array and limited space. It is very compact and less expensive than the two other devices I got to replace it.

kosio86 Hi Yeah I got 1, With solar and a 120ah agm , great little compact dc/dc charger with solar control, Easy set up and takes up not much space, Can’t complain hay

We're dose the red wire go if the black one go to the neg of AGM battery ?

Не е твърдак. Така звучи тк дерайльора беше без съединител и веригата доста дрънчеше. Няма проблем и с твърдак да се мине, просто е по-изморително. Колелото го продадох преди близо 2г, но беше доста добро за парите си. Сега съм с 2х по-скъпо и съм на същото ниво :D

I had to remove the rubber stripes from the gimbal bracket , so I can screw both screws

Wolf Reviewing I don't have experience with the other models you have listed. The pixels that appear when moving are because of the compression that youtube adds after uploading the video. I have noticed that when I upload 2k60fps it is worse compared to 4k30, while right out of the camera I don't see any difference. I think that youtube really prefers some formats better than others.

Wolf Reviewing Have in mind that the video is stabalized with a gimbal. If you don't use gimbal there will be a lot morw movement the camera should deal with

kosio86 oh WHAT hang on ..... so all this time these cameras asre look crap with fuzzy is KZfaq ? Oh dammit I was gonna choose apeman a77 as most videos look less fuzzy but it is more money now if it’s only YT cause this idk wat to buy lol And I would prolly just use idk a chest mount ? I mean idk I’ve never used a camera attachments so I don’t wanna buy any lol only use ones that come with cam as I, cheap

Wolf Reviewing KZfaq compression always decreases the quality and adds the fuzzyness. Any video looks better before I upload it to youtube and doesn't have that much compression noise. However, have in mind that this is a budget camera and the quality is poorer than GoPro, but the difference is not that big, when you consider how much cheaper it is. As I am constantly falling with the bike and I hate waterproof cases, I prefer bying a cheap camera and not worrying if I am gonna scratch its lens.

Sony chest mount plus angle mount to level the gimbal