You are probably right, but I didn't want to stress the plastic parts and wanted to make sure I had enough room to do everything that would be needed.

Maybe it's not setup right. I tried backing up and stopping but maybe the auto adjuster isn't working. I wish they were calipers 😂

I also replaced the wheel bearing at the same time. It's that back left one on the driver's side

Crunching is not a good noise. When you put new shoes in, did you put new drums on also? The drums do wear down and if they have a wear ridge on the inside or outside, that can cause noise. Drums from Rockauto are reasonably priced

@@thewalkingrob8840 Backing up or using the handbrake does not make the auto adjuster work. Applying the foot brake does. However, I'm not convinced that the auto adjusters work. I usually have to adjust the gap by hand. This video is for a corolla, but the brakes work the same way kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nuCKatSXv5rZaIk.html

@@thewalkingrob8840 That probably didn't fix the noise?

Great! It is a good way to balance a wheel - provided the hub spins easily. No need to worry about where the wheel CG is located - except for placement of weights. I ended up with a slightly different method, as my preferred method, which works on multiple pilots and stud patterns. Shows up in this video, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jc2agbJjzNqXqJs.html

Can't say. I didn't know Triumph was making a 400 single. Had a look on line for parts diagrams and couldn't find any, so I can't answer your question

Thanks for the comment...Yes you can But as I found out when changing the base materials from soft to hard, the harder the Base and ball materials the better. Which is why I ended up using a 2.5 inch steel ball on a steel plate (+hub centric rings when needed). In the text under this video there is a link to Kia soul tire change. It shows almost everything I've learned during this long learning experience.

That is inconvenient. At 2:47 in the video, just to the right of where it says "Mirror View", you can see the reflected alignment mark in the mirror, which is quite well hidden otherwise. Hopefully your XSR has that. 2:55 is a good time index too. The paint mark is quite wide and it has moved about 1/2 the width of the thin part of the mark. You can overdo the turning and to be honest, I was watching the numbers on the speedo, not the mark when turning it. Best bet if you don't have a mark, is to scribe one at the starting position and make movements relative to that mark. At least you should be able to return it to the stock position if it starts doing silly things. Good luck

Thanks for the comments. Watch out for those leaf style lock nuts - they strip threads if not lubed

Thanks... The bar is cheap to make too. One of the problems I have is, I've had a knee replacement (why I'm wearing knee pads) It didn't turn out so well, so doing stuff on the floor is out for me. I have seen the "walking on the tire method" in video's, but if it suddenly pops on - like it did in the video, that would be me going for a tumble. I could have put the tool bar in as well, but sometimes the height of the wood hits the second bead, so the tire lever helps. Here I am playing with a silverado 1500 tire. It wouldn't push on either. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/na2maLCG3ci1Y5c.html

Good luck. We got stuck behind a truck hauling a flatbed with quite a few of those giant 1000lb open bags of sand on the back. It was a sand storm. Probably peeled paint off as well.

Well, apparently it is meant to flutter. (Tech answer) Mikuni drilled a couple of big holes in the slide base allowing the vacuum above the diaphragm to build and drop quickly. Some people have done something like this on other carbs as a tuning mod, but Mikuni did it on this one as standard. The result is... The slide flutters like mad at any speed above idle. This causes the needle to rise and fall rapidly thru the needle jet and surprise surprise, wears out the needle jet. They may look round, but they are too big and drown the engine with fuel. There are no more original parts left to be had, so I installed a jet kit from Dynojet. This seemed to fix the over rich fueling issue, but then I discovered another issue with the choke valves not seating properly... Oh I never posted that discovery and fix. Now it's just too hot to go test it here in PHX. I did one run after the choke fix and it seems a bit better. There is some hope.

With the wooden arm + duckbill tool, there is a slight overturning moment (torque) when running the duckbill around the rim. Your setup with the "lucid autoworks" style design eliminates that moment, so stick with it. I was going for something cheap that anyone with basic woodworking tools could make. I already had the screws, glue and saws, so the only expense was the duckbill and a 2x4. The duckbill slides nicely around alloy rims without scratching too. The laser wheel balancer is my preferred method now, although I can break out a vertical balancer if the hub fits the wheel. You could use the "self levelling laser" on tires in addition to the bubble balancer. Just need a tripod to go with it. The laser is really good at throwing a level line. I think it was designed for people installing wallboard and the like. It beeps when it is outside it's level tolerance zone. I put links into the text under this video if you are interested

I did catch a previous sunset launch from a park, so no trees. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o7-IndKdvZ2VpZ8.html Took me while to realize that the gap in the vapor trail was the end of the booster stage and the start of the second stage. This one catches the booster entry burn at about 6:03. The landing burn would be over the horizon. It's amazing how big the exhaust plume is for being 500 miles away

They are??? Good for those people!!! 'cos it works 😁😁😁 and I don't have to go to a tire dealer. I switched the 80mm Crystal ball for a 2.5 inch steel ball with a few plastic hub centric rings and I can do many different wheel hubs now. Corolla to Silverado 1500. Now where is that crystal ball. The feng shui seems to be off a little...

This is my preferred method for wheel balancing now. The 2 1/2 inch steel ball along with hub centric rings is able to cover most of the hub sizes. There are cases where the wheel spokes / hub pilot are closer to the center, they will likely be unstable. Then I would use a vertical method like this one kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mttllrd-1tatmI0.html Since then, I've heard that trailer hubs don't have grease seals, so they should work with no mods. I have not tried to find one.

@@richbinaz cool, good job

Wow, they got expensive. Glad it helped!!

Yes it can. I ended up using a steel electrical cover plate along with a steel ball as they are much less likely to break with heavy tires. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/na2maLCG3ci1Y5c.html Silverado 1500 tires 75 lbs It is important for the surface to be FLAT and LEVEL. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jc2agbJjzNqXqJs.html

Just checked and it's 1/2" ID Vinyl. Probably got it from Ace Hardware. They have rolls on the wall and you can buy it by the foot. I see they changed the funnel design, mine has a cap to keep dust out of the top when in storage.

@@richbinaz Thanks! Just got some. Weirdly that funnel is only $7 at oreillys or autozone but $12+ on amazon, so just went to the physical store. Another nice thing I just noticed is that it has a metal screen/filter inside it. I have accidentally seen little bits of debris or even a leaf get kicked up and fall into my funnels before, so that'll help.

Thanks, it was fun and needed to be done.

Excellent video how much antifreeze did you end up using ? Just wondering how much should I expect to put into the radiator? Should 1 container be enough to fill the reservoir and the radiator or 2. Thanks much.

@@JoseRivera-jw2uj I don't remember the exact amount, sorry. Probably around 1 gallon. I did get the Toyota concentrate and split it 50/50 with distilled water. I keep the old 50/50 bottle around for just such a purpose.

Thanks buddy appreciate the video helps out big time.

@@JoseRivera-jw2uj Just spotted this video - This guy had a hose failure at 250K & 15-20 years kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i7WCZdFhy7SUd2w.html

Thanks for the info. It has made this noise since day 1 and I'm kind of used to it. Changing the rubber dampers over looks tricky and I don't have the machine tools to do it properly, so I'll just put up with it.

Thank you. It has been a long learning curve and I am actually doing 2 tires today for a Kia Soul. I will try to video everything, capture tips and keep it short (hard). Current best balancing video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gNx-Z8xe1rDVfac.html Google translate: Mulțumesc. A fost o curbă lungă de învățare și de fapt fac 2 anvelope astăzi pentru o Kia Soul. Voi încerca să filmez totul, să surprind sfaturi și să o fac scurt (greu). Cel mai bun videoclip actual de echilibrare

Good idea, but I don't carry them with me everywhere... Are you AI?

@@richbinaz I just watched your last video where you floated the idea and hoped you'd have a video doing it

It would probably help you get in contact...

may be smart to wear high-vis when placing the cones 🤣 don't know how much I trust them

@@johndowe6161 I tried that when it parked in front of my driveway. Just read what I wrote under that video and it looks like it took 2 weeks for them to get back to me... In other words, they just don't care!

Phone number pasted on the vehicle is faster... Are you AI?

I tried that when it parked in front of my driveway. Just read what I wrote under that video and it looks like it took 2 weeks for them to get back to me... In other words, they just don't care!

Yep. Have to figure out how to drain the tank first. Only worked on gravity tanks before... The 1991 Suzuki I have, has a fuel gauge that has never failed - similar float system - just no pump.

I think a change was made to the transmission to add a launch gear some time around the 2018 model year??? This really applies only to the K313 transmission. You most likely have a K120 transmission. From what I can tell, you can only do a drain and fill on that one. No sump pan, it's all cast. Here's a video I found - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kLuArNWQr9jeg6M.html

This one isn't... But I have had one park in front of my driveway and it took 2 weeks to contact someone and get a reply, after I had to search for a phone number on-line. The car rolled off with no warning in about 15 minutes, but If I needed to get a car out... how could I get it moved?? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/idppo5ei1LDck2Q.html Best thing is to print a phone number on the car so that I can contact someone immediately to tell them to move it. It could be that fire/ambulance/police need it moved... but there is no way to contact them.

Those are Mikuni BST36mm

I got the 80mm glass ball on amazon, but i found out it was to big for the alloy wheel I tried to balance at the end of the video. I ended up getting a 2 1/2 inch steel ball from amazon, which does a better job, specially coupled with a simple steel plate I picked up from home depot. Try this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gNx-Z8xe1rDVfac.html There is one downside of the steel ball in that it doesn't fit some of the larger wheels with bigger pilots. To solve that issue, I got some plastic centric rings and was able to use them on a CX5, Kia soul and even 2 together on a Silverado 1500. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/na2maLCG3ci1Y5c.html The centric rings I got were 67mm to 60mm & 78mm to 67.1mm

They were successful and I didn't have to wait 100 years (century plant) for the next flowering, only 7 years. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pNiKiaeI3avKcpc.html Planting them in the ground is the best solution, it allows the hundreds of fine roots to spread out. I have one in a 12" pot that is root bound and just not doing well and probably won't flower. Here's a short video of how I planted one of the bulbils this February kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rMyTnsVnz8fHdac.html It's actually going into the same spot as a previous one. It's on a drip emitter for watering, so probably getting too much water, but it works. Had one in the front garden that got attacked by a nasty weevil. Had to cut it down early and get rid of it.

That's awesome to hear. I'm in AZ too and researching what I will do when it's time to plant mine! Thanks for the info!

Thank you for reading the steps - few do 😸 Almost there - here's a summary written slightly differently... You have the car level within 1 degree... pan back on... level straw in... drain plug in finger tight. You refill the trans with a little bit more FE oil than you measured coming out. (say ~5 qts) You start the car in maintenance mode (steps 11 & 12) The "D" should disappear when the oil is below temp (<35°C) NOW is the time to go under the car and remove the drain plug to drain out the excess. Leave it out while you get back to see the dashboard. As soon as the "D" appears, go back under and put the drain plug in. That accounts for any expansion of the oil while the transmission heats up. You now have the correct level and can torque up the drain bolt The D stays on for a 10°C span before it starts to flash (>45°C), so the 1 minute it takes to get back under the car, put the drain plug in and tighten it a little, will fall easily in that time span. This does work - you are almost there! Yes I had to think it thru several times before committing and doing it.

It works on most of the larger chips, but eventually the smaller sand sized chips that aren't practical to fill, end up covering the windscreen. Then you just wait for the giant rock to hit the glass.

Haha yup I hear you but I am just staying ahead of the game so none of my very small chips don’t spread or become weaker with the continuous usage of heat and ac

5 gram, or 1/4 oz in my case, is more than good enough for the speeds I'm comfortable with. There is a tollway in Oklahoma with an 85mph speed limit and the tires are smooth as silk at that speed. I now just use the sticky weights too, so I can put them in the wheel CG plane. That avoids dynamic vibration issues.

Yes, great video! Got me inspired, thank you! There were a few problems I came across that I very slowly solved... 1. The ball and the resting surface have to be fairly hard - Now I have a steel ball and plate 2. The CG of the wheel/tire assy must be below the CG of the ball - For stability 3. The resting surface has to be level, to eliminate induced errors 4. For large wheel pilots, use hub centric ring(s) to reduce the pilot down to suit the ball size. The useless bubble balancer is now a paper weight in the shed. The largest tires I have done now were on a GM silverado truck. My sons father in law was complaining the wheel was bouncing up and down at 60mph - so I did a check balance when I took it off. It was way out. previously balanced by a large chain store over here (Discount tire) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/na2maLCG3ci1Y5c.html I had trouble getting the new tire beads to seat, so I forgot to record the balance with new tires on. But the laser balancing worked great. No complaints at freeway/motorway speeds. Saw this later on, after finally getting the tires on. I thought there must be an easier and cheaper way kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ma6lrNaW1rW5eKs.html I have small inner tubes ready and waiting.

Thanks for watching. I probably won't do another unless they launch a heavy from California.

Great! Hope you have a lot of room above the plant for it to grow nice and tall.

Thanks, I did have a pdf for a guide, but I am not a qualified mechanic and don't have their techstream computer. Link to forum and pdf guide. www.toyotanation.com/threads/cvt-drain-and-refill-question.1691371/#post-14363441 I was worried about using a paper clip to short those 2 connections together in the OBD2 port to put it into maintenance mode. Checked that 3 or 4 times before turning the key on. It worked. A lot of people do a drain and fill. I think it's worth changing the filter and cleaning out the sump at least once. My daughter sold the car at 156K miles. No transmission problems! (she got a Tesla...)

Lo siento, no hablo español. Una cosa que puedes hacer es hacer clic en el botón "mostrar transcripción". Seleccione y copie la transcripción y colóquela en Google Translate. La transcripción no es la mejor, pero puede ayudar. El traductor de Google es cómo hice este comentario.

You are welcome. If you have any questions, I'll answer the best I can.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind when I inevitably run into something i can't find any info on!

I think you are correct. I have a Bonneville that had a baffle in the airbox to reduce the flow to effectively 2x the diameters of the carburetor throats. I have not measured the G orifice, but it probably affects the main jet size