Absolutely, they do, and thank you for watching my channel! If you haven’t already, I’d really appreciate it if you could subscribe to help me reach my goal of 1,000 subscribers. Your support means a lot!

Funny story… my 10 yr old daughter (at the time) with a knack for finding hacks, bet me $5 that using a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponge would work in our pool about 4yrs ago. I took the bet and lost! 🤣😂 In case you were wondering like I was how these sponges work, they filter pool water effectively by scrubbing away algae and adsorbing iron particles thanks to their melamine foam composition and micro-porous structure. I know how crazy it sounds but I promise this hack works!! BTW thanks for watching my channel! I hope you subscribed and will come back to my channel again!

Oil-based sanding sealers are still available for residential use, but their availability and usage depend on your state's environmental regulations. Some states, like California, have strict rules regarding products with high levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which can limit their sale and use. Brands such as Minwax and Cabot offer oil-based sanding sealers, but you should check if they comply with local regulations in your area. Some stores might not stock these products in states with stricter VOC laws. I highly recommend using General Finishes water-based sanding sealer, which can be used with an oil-based topcoat. General Finishes advises testing on a sample piece first and ensuring the sealer is fully dry before applying an oil-based finish. Wait at least 24 hours and ensure the surface is not tacky. If the surface is tacky, do not apply your finish as it will not adhere properly, leading to suboptimal results, including peeling. Lightly sand the surface and clean off all dust before applying the oil-based topcoat. When sanding, I recommend using Premium High Flex Contour Sanding Pad Sponges, 220-280 grit (amzn.to/3xq5rCh). In the project featured in this video, I used an oil-based stain (Minwax), a water-based sanding sealer (Minwax), and a water-based topcoat from General Finishes. The key is to let everything dry thoroughly and sand between coats. Personally, I prefer using General Finishes water-based topcoats because the finishes are outstanding, and cleanup is super easy. Thanks again for watching, providing comments and questions, and please feel free to ask any more questions as needed. If you haven’t already, watch my video about how to apply a topcoat here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nrZhfamQ19SooGw.htmlsi=Fyj66MmeMkJ1Dsb7

Appreciate the feedback!

Appreciate the feedback!

Placing the copper pipe for algae control directly in the skimmer basket is optional, however, it tends to corrode. Placing it inside a PVC pipe prevents the copper degradation from staining any parts of the skimmer basket.

No, I haven’t done that yet. I’ve based success on the fact that algae hasn’t returned. The copper pipe releases copper ions into the water regularly at about 0.02-0.04 PPM. Over time, these levels accumulate, and by mid-summer, they should reach the optimal level of 0.25 PPM for effective algae control. In a 20,000-gallon pool, this process typically takes about 6 to 12 days. Naturally, this estimate can vary depending on the size of the pool. I’ll test the water soon and report back with the findings! Thanks for the feedback, and if you haven’t please consider subscribing to my channel! 😉

@@WoodandStuff-55 Thankyou. The reason I ask is that many pool testing kits include a test for copper. Anything above .2 ppm is considered NG as copper causes staining.

I will definitely be testing and I'll provide some honest feedback. Just as a side I have not seen any staining... yet! ;)

AMEN!! ;)

First, apply the stain, followed by the sealer, and finish with your final coat. Remember to sand between coats of sealer and final finish. The last application of your "final" finish should be done without sanding. If you follow these steps as I've outlined, you'll achieve a fantastic final result! Best of luck, and please keep us informed about the outcome!

I refrained from doing so because the screws included in the kit already had "Loctite" applied to them. It's worth mentioning though, if your screws lack pre-applied "Loctite," it's advisable to apply some and let it sit for 24 hours before use.

Ha! I get chased around all the time! Thanks for watching!

I'm not entirely clear on what you're referring to. There's a red wire (positive) and a black wire (negative). It's possible you're mistaking the black bungee cord that secures the battery. Could you specify the timestamp in the video where you're seeing a second black wire? With that information, I might be able to provide more clarity.

@@WoodandStuff-55 I have the same question. At the 1:39 mark, there appears to be a black wire that is connected to the top left bolt on the starter. My mower is identical to yours, but doesn't have any wires connected to the starter...except for the red one at the bottom. I'm not sure what that top black wire does, but I don't have it....nor do I have the extra metal piece that is also mounted under the top left starter bolt.

The battery has a black and a red wire connected to it, however, the starter only has one red wire connected to it. Hope that helps.

Thank you!

Glad to hear it may help! Thanks for the positive feedback!

I'm telling you... it makes a difference! ;)

-55 it sure does.

Apologies for the delayed response! Balancing content creation with the demands of life (especially with four kids!) can be quite the juggle. While I lack expertise in musical instruments and their finishes' or potential impact on acoustics, I can attest that all the furniture I've crafted using GF products surpasses their oil-based counterparts. The finish is impeccable, cleanup is a breeze, and overall, GF proves more forgiving if errors occur. Count me as a staunch supporter of GF! Besides Rockler & Wood Craft Amazon also carries GF products and is a lifesaver since it's hard to get locally here near me - plus they ship to my door! ;) Keep me posted on the progress of your project!

You don’t have to BUT I think it makes the process a lot easier. Plus it forces you to ensure the pistol is clear and safe.

Glad it was helpful! Come back for more! ;)

Appreciate it! Come back for more content!

Thank you… appreciate the feedback! Please consider subscribing if you haven’t already! 👍🏼

Yes - the foot print is the same for the Pro. Remember that if you don’t use the plate you’ll have to grind down the legs because the red dot just won’t sit all the way down. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Fast! Really fast!! 😂🤣

You bet

Thank you for your comment and for watching my video! I apologize if the video didn't clearly present the specific dilemma I mentioned in the title. The dilemma I was referring to in the video was whether the extra step of applying sanding sealer is truly beneficial. My intention was to convince viewers that applying sanding sealer is beneficial, and to show how to properly apply it to your project. I appreciate your feedback and will strive to provide clearer explanations in future videos. If you have any further questions or suggestions, please feel free to share them. Thank you for your support and interest in my content! I hope you’ll consider subscribing and watching more of my videos - I’ll get better with helpful comments like yours!

Thank you!

You bet!

Thank you!

Thank you! I hope you subscribed!

Glad you enjoyed it

Glad you liked it!

You bet!

Glad it was helpful!