You can if you'd like. It's still going to oxidize after maybe a year and a half. You may have to use a 2000 grit after that time just to remove the old ceramic coating as opposed to just hitting it and bringing back the clarity with metal polish. It's your call.

If the car is parked without a garage, and no polishing is done at all, it's about 10 to 12 months. If polished every 3 months, up to 3 years. Perhaps 4 years. I'm about to drop another video that shows if the treated lights are treated every 3 months with metal polish, the clarity will remain.

You can. It's your choice. I did a comparison on one side of my own vehicle lights and without polishing them at all they both started to re-oxidized after ten months. We don't have a garage so the cars sits out in the sunlight all the time. If clients have a garage, the lights will stay clear a lot longer. Probably a year and six months, and that's without polishing them. I strongly advise clients to polish their headlights each month or no later than every 3 months to extend the clarity of the headlights.

@@karkule5919 I guess you're referring to the vapor treatment. Nothing much happens. I'd wait at least a couple of days before polishing. Although it doesn't need polishing for the foreseeable two months. If you're not using the vapor method then certainly in the end you will polish the lights. Never heard of waxing the headlights though😆That term generally applies to the paint on the vehicle.

Wow, that is awesome! I'm actually thinking of doing something similar with Maguire's PlastiX polish. That is some great customer service. Sweet. 👍

Yes, you're right about it not always being the life of the vehicle. It is true, other factacters are involved. It does depend on the continued care of the headlights. I do believe that some people think that they can have their lights restored and then they don't ever have to do anything to it for years to come and the lights never oxidizes. That's not true. It's good to tell the clients to clean and polish the headlights every 3 months. I've found that the vapor method does not last 3 to 5 years like the acetone bottle will say. Parked outside without cleaning and polishing maintenance, the lights will reoxidize in about ten months. If the maintenance is done and the car is often kept in the garage, yeah, it should last 3 years. Five years if the car rarely leaves the garage.😆

Thanks.👍 I have a couple of videos that's coming.

Hi Derek, Sorry for my slow response. I've been sick with a heart condition and I'm finally getting the chance to post a new video about my headlight training video.

Having the right mindset about headlights means you don't over panic about them. They're not precious metal materials. They are what they are. Just Plastic. When they're New, they're new plastic. When they're old, they're Old plastic. No one should ever be servicing new headlights. That's a given. But by after 6 to 7 years time when headlights oxidizes, it's Old plastic. You'll see a lot of those lights not only oxidized, but you'll see some cracks in them also. And they never had 2k clear coat put on them. Now I don't use 2k applicants because I hate when bugs and debris gets on it before the stuff drys. I stopped using spray stuff about 6 years ago. You have to let the client know that their headlights will look better, but don't ever tell them that they'll be new again. It's old oxidized plastic and old plastic can never be new plastic again. So in a sense you're telling them that it's a temporary fix. The truth is that most people will not polish and maintain the headlights after you service it and in 1 to 2 years time they'll need to have their lights serviced again. The other reality is that I've found that not long after you service the vehicle, the clients end up selling it and getting another vehicle. That is, if they already had the car for 7 plus years when it was new. High end clients don't hang on to cars long. Thanks for sharing that about the plastic expanding and contracting. If a client is living in a year round warm or cold state it might not be too much of a concern. But states where the seasons swings drastically in temperatures could be a concern. So that is food for thought.

​@@headlightvideotrainingUnless you have proof that car manufacturers don't use clearcoat as a matter cause in assembly, I stick to my guns, As far as plastic used for headlights, They vary from country to country and car producers in Quality and thickness, Yes the older the lenses the more oxidation, But nevertheless remain strong and impact resistant, A certified Clearcoat remains a valuable addition to road safety and longevity!!!

Hey Mario, how's it going? Say, People can start driving their cars after the polymer vapor treatment. I would still tell them not to run the car thru a car wash for a week though to allow the treatment to cure without solvents from carwash services getting on the headlight and those mechanical wheel scrubbers hitting them. Rain water won't harm the finish treatment. It's just the solvents and the scrub wheels in those carwash services that could harm it if you don't allow time for the treatment to cure in 5 to 7 days. The results are more spectacular than the regular auto ceramic finishes. So you could charge for that premium service from $75 up to $120 depending on how you want to decide. I was going to charge $75 starting out and move the price up depending on the demand. I've dropped the use of the polymer and gone back to auto ceramic because I'm too sensitive to chemicals. When using the polymer vapor method wear a respirator and thick 7 mil latex gloves.

@@headlightvideotraining thank you

On the bottle showcased in the video, the main ingredient is Synthetic resin and Methylbenzene. You'll see similar products on Amazon. Can't tell you what those other ones may contain. I only know the one I've been using. I've stop using the vapor chemical because I just hate all the precautions you have to take with the stuff. Gives me a headache anytime I got a whiff of it.

@@headlightvideotraining I can imagine that if you are a professional and doing this on a regular basis,you cannot take chances to inhale this each and everytime. for one time use, outdoor i suppose it will not do much harm in the long run

@@burianvlad2005 Some guys are not bothered as much with chemical fumes. I've always been sensitive to them. I did pest control work years ago and there were guys who worked that job for years and the pesticide didn't seem to bother them. But me, even wearing the protective gear, getting whiffs of the pesticide spray on the yards just killed me. The truck I drove sickened me also. At first, I'd didn't think the headlight polymer would bother me, but after doing a couple of jobs with it, I just couldn't stand it anymore. So auto ceramic is my main product to finish the jobs. At 63 I just don't want to be hassling with strong chemicals anymore. Now that's just me. You, it may not be a problem.

@@headlightvideotraining better stay away from nasty chemicals if you want keep the years piling up, so wise choice . regarding auto ceramic , what types do you use/recommend? we have some in europe which are quite pricey , like nanolex si3d headlight ,or sonax headlight coating . based on reviews , they do not last more than 1 yr before reapplying . we also use here headlight wrapping film ,which is also costly if you are looking for the good stuff . and final choice is clear coat , but 9 out of 10 people do not recommend . also ,with protective foil there have been instan ces where the polycarbonate cracked because of poorer heat dissipation. so it s a tricky thing . i d personally go for nano ceramic uv resistant coating ,it ticks the most boxes if it s durable enough . but i have no experiente on this topic whatsoever. good day to you ,Sir

It's always proper to sand off the oxidation first before the end process of applying auto ceramic or any other UV coating method. Every headlight service person should know that. That's headlight restoration 101.

The 50 dollar course comes with both the Headlight restoration videos and the information on the Polymer vapor videos. The 20 dollar course deals with the polymer vapor videos only. I've added the polymer method to my training courses. I got turned on to the polymer method but I soon learned there is a lot about it that I didn't expect. It's really a lot of work making update videos to the use of this product. There is the safety issue of using the stuff, the flex hose cap with keep popping off while using it, even with the flex hose application, you'll drip polymer fluid unto the headlight. I see other things about prepping the headlights that's important. So it's all worthwhile info to learn in the courses. You don't want to have these issues with a client and not know what to do.

Currently for me, the best method is the vapor application. However, you can't apply the vapor if you have days that are too windy or too cold because the boiler can will have a hard time creating the vapor. You'd have to do it in the garage free from the blowing wind, plus it can't be freezing in that garage that you can't create the vapor. I do emphasize the safety of handling the vapor chemical. Wear 7 mil latex gloves. In the garage wear a respirator and crack open the garage door or window, in the outdoors wear a mask. The results will be fabulous and amazing, and when done properly will last up to 3 to 5 years.

Nice! That is pretty good. Thanks for that info.