Yeah it’s the bailiegh, it don’t do bad for what it is. I’m not sure on the bump stop? I know you put a shot of oil in a lot of them so maybe?

@@tonymighalls9667 my poor description there, it’s a short hydraulic buffer that that only kicks in on the last bit of travel. It stops the main shock bottoming out like a rubber one would. They go ace with soggy gas springs because you get a great ride without risking the expensive gas shock. I never got that far, but they are nice 👌

Cheers mate! 🤙

Yeah to me it just occured naturally on a random jump

Thanks, yeah I’m a fabricator by trade. I did heat treat this, although I’ve got no way of testing whether it’s back to full hardness. Standard anneal then soak process and just hope it’s worked, second frame so far and they’ve both been ok. Lucky enough to have ovens where I work that I can use.

Fantastic, would love to see it! Did you go for steel or aluminium?

I went with steel. 44mm straight steer tube. I kinda cheeped out. The first dropouts that I made were through axle until I realized how expensive through axle wheels are. I remade them quick release. The tapered forks are a bit more expensive as well. I figured I'd just get one frame under my belt before going all out

Thank you! 😊

Could be around 8hrs, could have took less I think but it was very stop start.

Cheers, keep up the good work too, been subbed for a while! 🤘

Thank you! 🤘

I was surprised with how much interest the last video got, kinda did make me wish I had gone more in depth with it, I do plan on making a single pivot full suspension bike in the future. It might be a while before I start that one though 😂, I’ve just been banging these together on iMovie from clips. I might try talking, I think I sound very monotone but it might help some people sleep lol😂. I’ll check out this tofu autoworks thanks! 🤘

What makes a frame a T-bone frame?

@@tonymighalls9667 They might actually be called P-Bone🤨. Google Cannondale's Cad 2 P-Bone frames🤘🤘

@tonymighalls9667 I guess they're called P-Bone🤨 frames. Google Cannondale's Cad 2 I believe they're called🤘🤘

@@tonymighalls9667 S🍁rry, it's called their M500 frame🤘🤘

This is a good question, it kinda seems like for where I work and what equipment I have 7005 might actually be easier for me to work with and could be stronger in the long run, this can be age hardened over 6 months but the artificial ageing process seems easier too. Might use this material next time to be honest! 👍🏻

@tonymighalls9667 I saw a 7075 aluminum frame online about a year ago. It obviously wasn't welded, though (zinc). It was held together with some kind of adhesive and bolts.

Where I work we make heat exchangers and some of the cores we make we bond the fin to the tubes with aircraft grade glue.🤔

Thanks! 😁

Thank you very much,Ive got them on CAD, I’ll drop the numbers here soon. 👍🏻

​@@tonymighalls9667very interesting geo number, and all technology build frame

Thanks a lot glad you like it! 🤘

Thanks a lot! 👍🏻

I wish! Might be outside my budget nice though!

@tonymighalls9667 You could just go with a regular 7000 series aluminum Thomson Elite post 👍👍

@tonymighalls9667 Fair enough. Last time I looked a Thomson riser was almost 💰300.00⭐️; which would be close to 💰400.00 🍁. Their 3/2.5 Titanium seat posts are over 💰300.00⭐️ and their Titanium riser bars over 💰300.00⭐️🤨😳🤯

Mostly stuff I had knocking around, saint 9 speed mech, xt cassette, zee cranks, 150mm revelation fork, ns wheels which look exactly the same as some spank rims I’ve got, Hayes a4 brake on the rear and a shimano on the front currently

@@tonymighalls9667 Zee cranks, I've never heard of them.

Yeah there shimano downhill cranks, heard they are pretty much bullet proof with a 24mm steel axle

@tonymighalls9667 Nice👍👍. Is this group set better than their Saint groupset; basically their XTR group for downhill?

@tonymighalls9667 A 7000 series aluminum Thomson stem, seat post, seat post collar, and their 7050 aluminum riser bars would look Great on your bike😎🤘🤘. They've had this coating process since I believe 2018 (that I just learned about) that now gives their 7000 series aluminum stems, seatpost, seat post collars, and I believe their 7050 aluminum riser bars (but not their very pri💰ey but also VERY cool 3/2.5 Titanium seat posts or their riser bars😁👍👍) cool colours. They have a green one that doesn't look very cool, and their Glacier series, which actually does look c💧💧l🤘🤘. I also followed like yours their KZfaq channel🤘🤘; I'm hopeful they reply back. I told them how I learned of their company/products. Way....back....in 2010 I was looking for a 130mm stem. I was looking through the parts catalog at our now closed bike shop. I asked the owner about what was the Thomson 10 degree rise black Elite stem, and he replied, "Thomson makes awesome stuff!." Since then, I've been a Huge fan of their products. In 2018 I finally bought their 410mm beautifully cnc machined black Elite seat post for 💰145.00🍁 to go with the 💰141.00🍁 Elite stem.

It might be, only time will tell. I’ll keep an eye on it, I might see if I can get this tube bent on V2.

Thanks 👍

The plan is to ride it for a few months and then place it back in the jig and see if anything’s moved or cracked, I understand what your saying with the chainstays being in the side and the way the load is spread I’ll keep checking this. Cheers for bringing this up. 👍🏻

Hopefully, we get to see more frame builds in the future. It's really c😎l that you welded your own frame set. I'm guessing it is 7005 aluminum 😎🤘🤘

Originally for aesthetics, but i was also thinking less bends and I could keep them slightly wider and hopefully that would keep a stiffer rear end with a brace on the seat tube to help with that. It also doesn’t seem to get any chain slap but yeah mainly because it looks different and cool. 👍🏻

Cheers, I’m glad you like it. So I’ve never built a frame before this so it’s all a learning experience, I would like to think it’s pretty durable but it’s all “r&d” at the minute. So I originally wanted to build this from chromoly but with unlimited alu tube it was just the cheapest option at the time for me. I think chromoly would be easier in some ways because there’s no heat treat involved. But more difficult to weld well for me being more used to working with alu.

@@tonymighalls9667 It's great compared to the prototype, my friend, I heard that 4130 chromo can be welded easily, maybe you can use it in your next try, great job, keep improving 💪🔥

Cheers! 👍🏻

Im mostly thinking belt drive with alfine

That sounds super cool I would love to see that!

I’ll drop the weight here for the full build or just the frame only when I get some spare time, it’s made of 6061 t6 alu tube. 👍🏻

Thank you very much, yeah the plan was to see if I could just make one that works and learn from all the issues that arise then make a more refined version, I have made a smaller frame based on an inspired hex which I’m still buying parts for to build up but it should appear here finished some time hopefully 😂 ill do another build video for version 2 and maybe a run down of what I learned from v1! Thanks again for watching.

@@notpablo8369 haha yes, wish I could do more videos, but haven't ridden a bike in months :(

Thank you. Yes I did, I have an oven where I work. I did a fair bit of research online and asked a few people what they do and followed that. I’ve not got the expensive equipment to test if it’s exactly t6 but it’s pretty stiff!

Its stiffer without post heat treatment.... You can't really test it afterwards, you need to batch weld test units and destructively fatigue test them

I was lead to believe that where the weld area is it will soften the tube and create areas of tension and stress until its annealed and then re treated?

​@@tonymighalls9667you are right - if u choose to weld mayerial, that was heat treated before, you will loose that heat treatment in heat affected zone of weld, thus losing strength. Proper heat treatment after weld can indeed improve strenght of construction. If i am right, most of bicycle frames are not heat treted after welding due to high cost of it. Instead of hest treatemtn you can use more material (longer or thicker weld area) to counter loss of strenght - it is cheaper option. Can you tell me how u heat treated it?

Yeah I’ll explain the method I used, from what I read from various places in the net it was best to anneal the frame to relax all the stress from the weld joints at around 480 c then quenched it as quickly as I possibly could, then realigned the frame in the jig because the rapid quench slightly distorted it, then I placed it back in the oven and treated it at 210 c for around about 8 hours and then left it in the oven to slowly cool overnight, I’m not 100% sure it’s t6 but i will strip the frame and check it back in the jig to see if anything’s moved. If you have any advice for heat treating it would be much appreciated thanks! 👍🏻

Thank you! 😊 looking more of a pro job this time!

Just as messy as always bud!