Brilliant video. 👏 love what you are doing. This is a superb thing to do, and learn heaps from 😊 HOWEVER. take it from someone thats been building engines for 30 years, You are playing with fire on a biblical scale. Watching the first one throw its crankshaft out was great fun, but could have gone a lot worse. Easy start is a fast burning (more detonating than burning really) and with an open port, you are asking it to immediately run at full throttle....... that's a lot of force 😮😮😮 A small i/c engine is easily capable of making 1000 psi + of combustion pressure. Yours will do that too. I'd wear a crash helmet and full leathers anywhere near that thing. 😅😅 Looking forward to seeing it run in the next one. Stay safe buddy 👌

Your engine is really impressive. I’ve not seen many engines with 3-D printed parts run.

If you put a piece of wood on your drill press like a 2 x 6 or even a 2 x 4 and then clamp the flange for your intake manifold, you can drill the part without it getting shoved down through the center hole of the work platform on your drill press

Oh cool you also play Beamng drive, do you have a wheel?

Looks just like Canada!!!😃

*Just so you know* there should be 2 screws on the carburators side , one screw is for fuel , and the other one if for air , you need to adjust the screws (normally 7(air) :1 (fuel) ) ratio , adjust it acordingly , also i recomend adding a exhaust to your engine , because that way you *might* get less fuel consumtion. Also to fix the oil pan issue , you can just drill a big enought hole into the cap , and that would fix the issue , Hope this helps!

What you have is effectively a supercharger and I’m impressed that you created one, impressed you knew to use a PWM device to power the motor so awesome. While superchargers can be beneficial for two-stroke engines, they are typically placed in the intake system rather than the crankcase. This setup increases the density of the air-fuel mixture entering the combustion chamber, improving power output without disrupting the crankcase pressure. Attaching it directly to the crankcase will disrupt the pressure differentials required between the crankcase and above the piston needed in a two stroke engine. By the way, I’m super impressed you built both a two stroke and a four! I subscribed and will look forward to your new designs! Awesome purchase on the mini lathe, I have one too.

It kick when you try start it ? And the sound remind me an ww2 plane sound.

I have some helpful information for you. I'm an Engineer by profession, have plenty experience with motorcycle and car engines and have rebuilt plenty in my lifetime. First, your enthusiasm and intelligence make for great video and you're inspiring me too. I would be doing the same thing at your age if 3D printers were available in the 80s! When I saw your crankcase explosion, I am certain it was caused by firstly, a lack of crankcase ventilation, and secondly excessive blow-by from a piston and rings which are not sealing enough (despite your amazing compression). Since you do have good compression, don't worry about the blow by until you stabilize other parts you already have within your grasp. However, before you do anything else, you need what's known as "crankcase ventilation" which can be done in a few ways. For your own safety, you must fix this first. Between a lack of PCV (positive crankcase ventilation), and leaving the oil cap off to "solve it", and leaking fuel from the carb, with no exhaust to catch flames that could ignite all of this, your getting lucky you haven't caught the bench on fire. I'd clear that bench a bit, and definitely move that battery out of the way because they can explode, just ask me (a mistake I made in the 90s). Meaning I see exhaust flames igniting fuel gases that are currently being vented out your oil cap and that catches the fuel tank you made on fire and then gets to the battery. Trust me, I admire you greatly but just don't want to hear you caught on fire like a friend of mine did over this weekend. Ok, that lecture out of the way now for what you care more about, getting that engine running smoothly. Positive Crankcase ventilation vents out the "positive" pressure that occurs when the power stroke pushes the piston down and then the gases blow past the piston and piston rings on their way into the crankcase. Since even the ideal 4-stoke engine sends unburned fuel out the exhaust (in a healthy engine) or in your case that unburned gaseous fuel is inside the crank case. This is what caused your case to explode, the positive pressure and potentially a secondary burning of that fuel. You were on the right track when you realized how much easier it was to pull start with the oil cap off but leaving the cap off and continuing was the most unsafe thing you could have done. Oil fill port with no cap is directly below the exhaust port so that those unburned gases are floating around and any flames coming out the exhaust can light them in an explosive manner. Small engines can handle this in a couple (if not more) ways. First is to place a PCV valve on the crank case so that only when the crankcase experiences positive pressure will the valve open and allow unburned gases to be routed back to the carb or intake manifold to be burned, or into the housing for the air filter. Secondly, the simplest way you can handle this is drill a hole into your crank case plenty above your oil level line, insert a threaded hose barb that screws into a tapped hole in your crankcase and the barbed in connects to a vent hose which should vent into your air filter housing once you get one on your carb. Also, get your carb model number and research what the hoses are for because I'm pretty sure you didn't want to rip that one that was on there and throw it to the side. If you have a port for PCV hose to plug into, you won't need the air filter housing option. You're doing an awesome job, just think about the fire hazard your up against and the best bet would be for you to get the engine off the bench or clean that section off. All that leaking fuel, man I couldn't believe it didn't catch fire. Had I not nudged you about this I would have felt horrible if your next video showed you covered in bandages, or the garage burned down.

That infill, why not print it solid? I printed some things that had to hold up to a lot of pressure, and heat. Not sustained heat, I think that will be the biggest issue in this project.

Bigger fly wheel

Brother, this head is very good, it reminds me of old lawn mowers. very good

Well, forced air induction in a two-stroke engine is not a bad idea, but I believe that turbo doesn't work in these engines, however superchacher and pro charger YES, it works very well! but you will need to redesign some parts of your engine.

very good! Keep in mind that 2-stroke engines are extremely sensitive hehe, also check if your crankshaft has seals, without them the crankcase will lose vacuum. good luck

more progress brother!!! very good, another suggestion is to change the engine flywheel, this seems to be dangerous, a solid piece of iron could be less dangerous.

It seems to be progressing! Think about using torque vanes in the future, or if you prefer, use the piston as an intake "valve"... the famous 2 stroke piston port, which are the simplest and do not require torque vanes for their operation. . I saw that you use Tinkercad to model, think about using Fusion 360 later, there is a free version for personal use. good job.

ok, changing the project from 4 to 2-stroke was a wise choice, taking into account that in two-stroke engines the air-fuel mixture passes through a large part of the engine's moving parts, which ends up lubricating and cooling the engine. Here in Brazil, there used to be a specific model of a 30cc 2-stroke brush cutter that had a plastic engine block, I have a copy kept at home. I still think the 4-stroke should still be continued. :) (note: I suggest you change this chainsaw carburetor for one from a motorized bicycle, the disadvantage is that they work by gravity, but they are much less annoying than these, experience it yourself)

I'll follow this series until the end my friend! Good job.

very good friend

Sounds like Canada! That would be relatable😅

Do you live near a lake?

When does it stop being 3D printed?

I loved your excitement when it ran! Have you thought to make it smaller? I love the idea that you are making it big but isn't it a lot more dangerous like that? Also I wanted to ask if you could name EVERY part for the ignition system? I Have know clue how you or Camden Bowen made the ignition system...

Add some bolts perpendicular to your layer lines for the manifold

you spend so much time printing useless plastic parts... just make metall parts from the begining. also the crank-case

Love seeing the incremental progress on this project!

why is exhaust coming out of the cranc case?😳

The frustration in watching the fuel bottle fall off every time he turned the engine over....... Wanted to scream at my phone 😂😂😂 really interesting video though bud

14:26 Use a sacrificial piece of wood underneath your work or even 3d print yourself a vice.

Man this is pretty neat - subbed!

May seem really stupid, but I suggest using Flex seal as a gasket, it works pretty well in a actual engine, may work better than some cereal boxes and aluminum foil 😆

suck. squeeze. bang. blow. WOO HOO!

If I was going to 3D print a piston I would probably give it 100% rectilinear infill. The broken one in the beginning of the video looks like it was around 15% cubic.

That's more reliable than my mercedes

U gotta start using a two stroke membrane, it blocks the exhaust towards the intake fully, also it's shooting exhaust gas through Ur oil cap, probably leaking O ring as well :) nice build tho! Try and see if U can work with the info

It's a bit expensive for you maybe But you can use carbon fiber reinforced nylon to print This requires an enclosed printer and filament as nylon absorb water in no time

Compression too high. It was knocking

You can source all equivalent electric, shocks, drive shaft from bagood for $100 depending on what you want

Talk to Camden Bowen, he’s doing the same exact thing

Try electroplating.

You should make the flywheel perfectly straight and balanced if you don't want it in more pieces than one. Also, crankcase ventilation is a big thing, if you don't have it. As the piston goes down it creates pressure in the crankcase, if everything is sealing right. The hole you have is shooting oil out of it at bigger rpms, from what I've seen.

Really amazing job loved the video ;) Keep going !

You have pressure on the crankcase. It means your piston rings are leaking. 💨 That's why you see all the smoke coming out of your oil cap on the last pulls. 💨

It looked like the fly wheel was out of balance.