Thank you! 🤙

Thanks for watching, and I appreciate the feedback. As long as you let the oxides set for several hours after etching you really shouldn't see it fade over time. Just keeping it clean, dry, and waxed can really help as well.

Hey, thanks for watching! Lol, I started getting quite a bit more views when I stopped talking so much. 😂 Maybe I'll try another video with full commentary. I'm happy to answer any specific questions you have in the comments.

@@DavidMoonForge mate do what you got to do to make you Chanel grow. I like commentary because I learn more it reinforces what you’re teaching.😎😎😎❤️❤️❤️

Thanks! 🤙

Thank you! 🤙

Thank you! I really appreciate that. I've really enjoyed my blade smithing journey. Thanks for coming back! 😛

That's interesting. I can see some similarities in this profile to early Bowie profiles now that you mention it. Thanks for watching!

Thank you. It's just personal preference. I like the seamless feel of the handle on a full tang knife when I shape the handle after gluing up the scales. You can go through and re-etch the tang with a q-tip and some ferric chloride, but I don't like the idea of any acid being pulled into tiny crevices between the tang and scale with no way to guarantee that it's been neutralized. I'd probably recommend a hidden tang knife if a customer wanted the spine etched.

@@DavidMoonForge i was just wondering. i normally etch the entire knife now to avoid questions like mine when im at a show. but thank you for the information.

@@dagnard5707 you bet! It's a great question, and one that I get asked a lot as well. 🙃

Lol, that's not true at all.

If you tape the wedge instead of the blade, you'll still have metal debris build up on top of it while sharpening, and it will end up scratching the surface of your blade.

I do it that way sometimes too. I think shaping the handle once it's glued up generally gives a more seamless feel. I agree with you that shaping before glue up has a nice look to it when you can see the pattern down the entire spine and tang.

Thanks dude! 🤙

Сколько стоит.How mach?!

Adress?

Exactly what I was thinking! lol

😂

You can apply a stain to darken it, or you could finish it with a dark danish oil. It will darken a little when you apply a finish, and it will also slightly darken over time.

Thank you! 😂🤦

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it! 🤙

Thank you! 🤙

Thanks Randy! 🤙

Thank you! 🤙

Usually with micarta or other non-natural materials I buff them with pink polishing compound on a buffing wheel. I think buffing wood can make it look a little plasticy. It depends on the type and if it's been stabilized, but I don't buff ironwood. I sanded this one to 400-grit and then applied the Odie's Oil.

You're telling me man! I've got to put the scales on that the customer wants. 🙃 I definitely prefer working with ironwood over micarta or G10. Thanks for watching! 🤙

Hey thanks dude! I love desert ironwood! 🤙

Thanks buddy! 🤙

Lol, I've actually got a whole cupboard full of used paper towel rolls. If it makes you feel better, I only do that for knife videos. 😛

Same dude... same. 😅

I'm glad you enjoyed the video! I appreciate the feedback.

Thank you!

Thanks for watching! 🤙

Thank you! 🤙

Thanks!

No, but I'm happy to answer any questions you have, if I'm able to.

I'm an Indian can I buy any of your knives

@@know_me856 I don't ship knives to India, if that's what you're asking. If you have a friend or family member in the US, I can ship the knife to them and then they can get it to you. Sorry if that doesn't help your situation, but shipping knives internationally can be difficult.

@@DavidMoonForge let me check

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🤙

Aight, you go make some then.

Thank you, I appreciate that!

Thanks! 🤙

Thank you! Thanks for watching! 🤙

You'll have a slight burr on the blade after sharpening on the diamond stones. You should strop the blade to make sure the burr is completely removed. You don't need to have diamond paste, or anything, loaded on the strop to do that. If you sharpen to a 3000 grit diamond stone, and then strop on a raw leather strop, you should easily be able to shave hair, slice paper, etc. Does that answer what you were getting at? Seems like you just want to know if the diamond paste is really necessary.

@@DavidMoonForge Thanks for your answer I’m just a cheap Charlie By avoiding diamond stropping it seems I still need 3000 grit stone which is another expense. I’m trying to get by with a Sharpal diamond stone that is 300 and 1200 grit on either side I understand your point of dry leather stropping. Thanks again

@@alfredopampanga9356 you can still get pretty great results with a 300/1200 stone and then a leather strop. For a cheaper option to diamond paste, you can add some green polishing compound to your strop. You should be able to get results with that setup that would easily shave hair or slice paper.

It's a 12-ton press from Coal Iron Works.

Thank you! 🤙

Hey, thanks for watching! 🤙

Thanks, I appreciate that!

Thank you!

Thank you! 🤙

Thank you!

🤙

Hey thanks buddy! 🤙

Thank you! These challenge builds are always fun to do. It's nice to get to make things I wouldn't necessarily make for customers. Thanks for watching! 🤙

Thanks dude! I'd hoped to make the blade solid twisted Damascus from that same bar but didn't have enough steel and had to settle for a layered construction around a 1084 core. Thanks for watching! 🤙