Hi, thank you for sharing this! Is the cn105 adapter they use straight through to ABCD? Is it the 12V or 5V line? Additional logic inside? I took a risk (knowingly) and bought one of these controllers on ebay which is explicitly arriving without the CN105 to ABCD adapter. (I am familiar with the CN105 serial protocol already however and have a few of my own adapters at home that work with ESP32 devices.)

Go Lee zelden

Now that the R-115S has been discontinued, does anyone else make a relay that would work?

Could this be used for a ducted unit? I haven't seen any reason it couldn't work. My biggest concern is if it actually runs the inverter systems correctly. I need full modulation and already have wired access...Mitsubishi wired is ugly as sin and the MHK2 is battery powered which I'm not that fond of either. If this does the same basic stuff and keeps all the inverter functionality I'd be quite happy. I have the Aidoo Pro for Mitsubishi and it's hot garbage. It turns my variable system into a SINGLE STAGE. Looses connectivity often and therefore loses its setpoint-- heats you out of the house. Talk about a waste of $250.

We have a remcom in our house and one of the relays went so i naturally dug into it. One of the wire burnt out so I didn’t think much of it. Then on a complete unrelated rabbit hole I learned about Nitinol. I suspect that’s what the wire is made of but I can’t confirm.

looks great, can it connect to wifi?

Mine won't power up. Good up to connections at heater then nothing . Any help appreciated. Thanks

For documentation go here: mylinkdrive.com/USA/M_Series/R410A_Systems-3/Indoor_Equipment-7/Wall_Mounted-6/PAC_SDW01RC_1?product&categoryName=Wall_Mounted-6

Darn I Wish I had gone!!!! I don’t know why I thought it was going to be in the Mall. But Tuesday Lee Has My Vote!!

I wasn’t going to record this on my phone but decided to at the last minute for friends and family. Apologize for the lack of image stabilization, just taken with an old iPhone 8+ held by hand..

Some narrative would be helpful

My circuit breaker keeps popping and won’t reset for a day 1/2 . I’ve replaced both elements, the circuit breaker and the thermostat. What else?

A wonderful tribute and memorial! Thank you Mr. Wightman, for your faithful service to our nation! May God Bless Our Troops!

And I had wondered ever since I was 3 what was making the click click sounds in the attic of my house whenever I turned off or on the light! Now I can see it - thank you!

I ran the diagnostics. This gave me some good information on how much the heater is cooling down the space where it is located. Intake (evaporator inlet) is around 44 degrees in the basement when the heater has been off for an hour or so. When the heat pump is turned on the temperature drops within around 10 minutes to 37 degrees Farenheight. This is in the corner of a 50 degree basement. Outside, the ground is likely to be colder than normal because it got down to 10 degrees last night. (I am guessing that the cold water intake is around 45 degrees in the winter and 60 in the summer, something I should probably measure.) The temperature at T4 goes from 63 (off) to 155/118/113/111 measured every 2 minutes after turn on. That is without any water flowing in the house, and with the heater at its default set point of 120 degrees. This suggests that the air temp in my large "heater closet" will drop into the low to mid 30s. There is air circulation in the room and no door; what is lacking is a space for the cold air to quickly flow away from the heater. The cold air bounces off a partition wall around 6 inches away and then some of that cold, drier air is available to the heat pump intake. What would make a lot of sense in my case is to move the water heater even closer to the partition and then open up a large hole in the wall, about 15x15. Then I could build a single large duct to direct the exhaust air through the wall where it could not interfere with the efficient the operation of the heat pump. This seems like it would even be better than having the heat pump sit in a completely open basement. For now I switched the heater into hybrid mode so that it will be able to keep up with demand in the house. I have a feeling that if I make the change described above I could run it in heat pump mode all winter in my climate (Massachusetts).

what is the best way to measure the current drain of the water heater? would be nice to be able to know if it is sucking up more power than normal. Is there a way to measure without disconnecting the wire?

Fair Warning: Our unit started to break down after a year of use on Hybrid Mode. The Heat Pump no longer works and GE has recused themselves from fixing it. We a weighing our options between just running on electric only mode and getting a repair man to refill the freon and replacing the necessary parts. Wish I would have done more research, this water heater not robust enough for home use.

This helped me reset an F1 error code that arose after a power outage. I greatly appreciate this post, as I, like most, no longer keep the owners manuals anywhere but buried in the basement. I will be able to test the reset now to determine if there is a censor or board issue.

I drained my unit and now it won't heat? It was producing F9 and F10 codes so I turned the unit off for 10 minutes. Now no codes, but still not heating. Suggestions?

Great video on a hard-to-find subject! At 32 seconds you get to the point where you test the Heat pump and you pass the elements. I can’t get mine elements to cycle on. The heat pump will cycle on but the elements do not. I tested them with an ohmmeter and they seem ok. Any advice?

Hi Matt. I was looking for a way to contact you directly, but I can't see to figure it out. Could you post a website or a good contact e-mail? I have a couple of basic remcon questions. Thanks!

I have one of the recon systems and i have been researching more info about replacing the switches as well as the relays. I have two rooms where the lights don't work and since we seldom use those rooms we have lamps and i haven't bothered. We recently had our bedroom light stop working and i am finally going to have to force myself to figure out this old system. I have found some information but not a lot. If you do have any information please send it if you would.

That is listed in the description under the video. 3 ways.. 1) push the up and down arrows at the same time until it exits 2) wait 15 minutes for it to time out 3) cycle the AC power to the unit..

How do you exit service mode?