Thanks, this is how I assumed it was done but had to double check to make sure

If I have an American standard gold 824 thermostat and a TEM6 air , do I still need to connect the yellow wires to the Y2 and do I set the delay option to enhanced? Or just leave the delay option to off? And should the airflow be set to normal. I'm having issues with humidity so I didn't know if I should keep the CFM on low or change it back to normal

Very very good explanations and info. Thank you!

Mine is connected to Y1 and not Y2...I also have the BK because my fan is variable speed

They just installed a unit just like this one but I don't know what to do if I leave it as it comes or do some additional configuration. ?

They just installed a unit just like this one but I don't know what to do if I leave it as it comes or do some additional configuration.

Can it be left as it comes originally?

That looks like a static probe, not a pitot probe.

Thank you Thank you Thank you!

Thanks for the helpful video! Would you be able to go one step further and explain how to wire the W8150's remote terminals to a compatible thermostat's U terminals so the thermostat app settings/ventilation function can act as the "remote"? Is it a simple 1:1 - remote 1 to U1, remote 2 to U2? Can a stand-alone compatible thermostat be used if original builder tstat wiring count is insufficient to use existing thermostats?

What a bad design.

Perfect! Thanks!

Your video helps

I didn't think this info was correct, if you look at your own example on minute 4:18 it shows that if you use only dip 1 and 2 it changes nothing as far as low, normal, high. You need all four dip switch settings to change speed. Then those carry for heat and cool.

Allen, thank for making such a clear and concise video about the Trane dip switches. I have the exact same unit. I just dropped $30K with an HVAC company to replace my duct work and a 2 ton system on one of two zones. The air flow is blowing my hair off... I'm hoping that it is currently set to the max flow setting so that we can slow it down by just changing the dip switch. By the way, the 2 ton unit is servicing less than 600 sq ft (two BR's and a Bathroom). Prior to the job, I told the contractor I was concerned that the unit was too big,

Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us !

Thank you been wondering this for sometime Now and finally decided To check online

May I ask what camera you’re using to record your videos?

I don't understand why it takes you all so long to pair equipment with the Cloud Comfort app. I just did it in 5 minutes, it's all there. I chose to follow the thermostat route and was done within minutes.

I had one of these units installed in June of last year. It's been nothing but trouble ever since. It started out with a bad install and I've had dozens of techs and many patches and fixes, but the unit still doesn't work especially well (even paired with their EL18XPV heat pump, which I'm told is a great unit). I'll have to take a look at the jumpers to see what they did. Thanks for the video!

Perfect training video for green techs 👏🏽👏🏽

Thanks for sharing your insights. I wonder if this video only applies to a single speed air handler and if it’s necessary for a variable air handler like a Trane TEM6. I have a 2 1/2 ton single stage Trane heat pump paired with a TEM6 variable air handler. It's winter and I'm in Heat mode so if the video here applies only to summertime cooling, please disregard. After watching this video, I decided to switch the wiring accordingly. Prior to doing so, my DIP switch settings had the air handler on High (437 CFM/ton), as opposed to Normal (398 CFM/ton) or Low (350 CFM/ton). After switching the wiring to connect Y1 from the TStat to Y2 in the air handler as the video points out, I changed the DIP switch settings back to Normal (398 CFM/ton). Interestingly, the air output seemed identical to when I had the Y1 TStat wires connected to the Y1 air handler wire and the Dip switches set to High (437 CFM/ton). Essentially, I’m in the same place I was in terms of CFM/ton, the only difference is before I adjusted the DIP switch settings to high and now I’m wired to High, which makes me think I should have kept the wiring the way it was and managed CFMs with the dip switch setting. Curious if anyone has any thoughts on this.

Thanks for the informative video! On some of the newer air handlers there is no window for viewing the code. You have to remove the air handler door or use the thermostat method which works fine most of the time. I

Your fist mistake was pulling through a manifold to begin with. On system change outs and new installs, I remove the schrader from the suction side and install a core removal tool with a large vacuum hose connected directly to the pump. Hook the micron gauge to the liquid line and you are measuring from the farthest point from the pump. When it’s time to isolate, close the core removal tool and shut off the pump. The microns will actually drop for the first few minutes while the system equalizes and then slowly start to rise. Once you pass decay test, before you remove anything open the service valves fully bringing the system to a positive pressure. Remove the micron gauge and re-install the schrader core and remove the core tool. You should never pull through a gauge manifold or 1/4 hoses because they all leak. Always remove the valve core and use core removal tool to isolate vacuum. If I’m doing service work, for example replacing a compressor or reversing valve then I pull from both sides with large hoses and core removal tools. It takes much longer when you are vacuuming down with the valves open because it is a much larger volume and you may have refrigerant trapped in the compressor oil depending on what kind of repair you are doing. When I pull with two hoses I install the micron gauge on the side of the core tool that’s connected to the suction line.

What powers the Bluetooth board? Just the cable from the main board or there’s something on the main board that needs to be turned on to power the Bluetooth board…… Have a Goodman gmvm9708004cn furnace

Hey is there anyway I can email you to discuss something please

Thanks for your hvac tip. Saved me alot of time.

The frustrating thing with my fieldpiece sman480, is what you just showed with it unable to keep a vacuum. I have run a vacuum just on my hoses and gauges and it climbs to atmosphere if I let it sit there long enough. I am not a huge fieldpiece manifold gauge. It causes me all kinds of frustration as I am losing my vacuum at my gauges, not necessarily the system that I vacuumed. I honestly am at my wits end with their manifold gauge. Tightness test included. The gauges leak.

Arent you supposed to kill power on any system with dipswitches before changing them? just checking

First there should not be more than 2 to 4 degrees higher temp at compressor suction line unless you have a very long line run. Second the accuracy of a K type thermocouple is not better than +/-2 degrees, if you have a good thermal contact to pipe and no wind blowing on, or sun hitting temp sensor. Most common reason for high temp rise on suction line is poor insulation installation or deteriorated insulation on suction line. It is also important to health of compressor to ensure you don't get above 65 degrees F at compressor to ensure compressor cooling. If you are going to mess with TXV adjustments, then measuring at evaporator has more importance.

So I used this method on a S9V Trane furnace. But still a little confused with setting it to hi or low fan speed on stat. I wound up setting it as a normally closed contact with low fan speed. Added jumper from R/U1 then The other U1 I ran to the BK terminal and cut jumper at board. Also In the Honeywell instructions states it will not run dehumidification in 2nd Stg but furnace was displaying it was running in 2nd stg and cfms were lower.

Hats off, to Mr. Reed, I commend you for your knowledge and your years of being in the trade. I was just stopping by looking at videos and I realize this was a ONE STOP video and now ! I working for STRADA Services in the HVAC dept. 3 months now ! i’m hoping that you’ll come back and give us some training it’s be GREAT !!! I hope you will come back….and give some more classes looking forward for your knowledge. Daniel Z

What about the carrier condensers (Model# CA17NA03600GABAA) that don't have the control board at the condenser but the factory listed it as a 2 stage unit? How would I connect my Y/Y2 or should I simply connect to Y1 to the air handler and leave it as that?

Is there a place where I can find a list, and explannation, of the codes that can be displayed on the logic boards 7 segment led ? AVPTC 61D14, & GSXC18(4 ton) Air Conditioning system.

Are you wearing the mask for the china virus? RIDICULOUS

I'm new to this stuff. The Supply was positive (+0.1) and Return was negative (-0.42 at 2:54 in the vid), so adding them on the sheet would result in -0.32, right?? (not 0.52). Or should you you intentionally ignore the + and minus signs?

If you really want to get technical brother, you should never under no circumstances attempt to pull a 250micron vacuum with guages, especially if you have plugs including on your service ports..your pump should be attached directly to the system high side on a valve core remover, nice vacuum rated hose atleast 1/2" in diameter with your micron guage connected on your valve core remover for your suction..using guages is the equivalent of having several restictions while pulling a vacuum especially with 1/4" hoses. Can be done, but somethin many techs should not practice

What total garbage. This sent me straight back to American Standard far as contracting goes. Stupid board trying to tell me I have an open float switch upon start up. Avptc is trash folks.

The number one mistake is using these gauges for performing an evacuation, they leak, use Appion valve core removal tools a hose, pump and external vacuum gauge. The SMAM gauges are fancy, expensive and unreliable, go old school and save yourself a lot of headaches.

Preach!

I do believe that is the 2nd stage lock in jumper selection. If set at 45, when the outdoor temperature is below 45 it locks the heat pump into 2nd stage and therefore sends 24 volts out of the Y2 OUT terminal so your blower runs at full speed even if the thermostat is only calling for 1st stage.

Thank you for the amazing information Mr.Reed !

Explication en français

That’s fantastic information! Thanks for sharing!

Now this is two years ago. The 480 has their sensors between the valve and the port. Per the user manual and the deep vacuum sensor between all the valves and ports.

Thank you for this!

Exactly.. Thank you.

This comment section sucks

I’m sorry but I don’t think your static pressure readings are very accurate. First of all you just stuck the hose inside the return. Second, what type of probe was used on the supply side? Conventional wisdom says to use a 90 degree elbow probe with it facing with the airflow to get the most stable and accurate static pressure readings. The other problem is the air turbulence happening on the supply side. The rest of the demonstration is good.

Great video guys. Your video has led me to do some research into my new system because I think it is configured incorrectly since all of the switches are still set to factory settings. The tech installed a TEM6A0B30H21SBA with a 4A6H6030H1000AC 2.5 Ton outdoor unit and a 10Kw BAYHTR1510BRKCA heating element . Seems like he did not follow any of the things you talked about to set our CFM's at all since there are no options for off-off-off-off for switches 1 through 4 for this unit being paired with a 2.5 Ton outdoor unit. It seems to be blowing at absolute max CFM's, which seems like way too much compared to our old system. Perhaps he is just used to installing this with a 3 ton unit since Normal for that size unit is indeed off-off-off-off.