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@SevenDeMagnus
@SevenDeMagnus 11 күн бұрын
You could use PlastX or scratch out use in car headlights to remove scratches use a slow rotary with a nice foam or wool buffing pad, great for disks too. God bless.
@rubenmejia4881
@rubenmejia4881 25 күн бұрын
Out of all the hundreds of videos out there, this is the most comprehensive and logically well done with the continuity test. Its somethibg i never thought of doing but definitely will now to improve my 72 pin connector!
@geirstro1
@geirstro1 Ай бұрын
Where did You buy that acrylic sheet? Is it UV safe?
@gabrielgoldwoulfe2277
@gabrielgoldwoulfe2277 Ай бұрын
That's a commendable repair. Nice job. Thanks.
@Pamberjack_
@Pamberjack_ 3 ай бұрын
Not a burnt screen. That’s the collector for the vacuum tube. Black is good. White or grey means the vacuum is gone and the display is toast. 😊
@0Logan05
@0Logan05 4 ай бұрын
What’s a cm?😉 Many don’t realize how Vital a venting enclosure is… Now, air assist! Rad🤙🏻
@FMR6501
@FMR6501 5 ай бұрын
Only probleme. You passed from a made in china model to a made in japan with 1 sticker. All the rest is a really great job
@misterdokes
@misterdokes 6 ай бұрын
Great video, I appreciate your style of less is more. Very budget conscious build, while also including everything necessary! I'll definitely be taking inspiration here, especially in regards to your lid and observation window. Cheers
@edwardharrison28
@edwardharrison28 7 ай бұрын
I like the design this answered so many questions I had about building an enclosure. Thanks
@danielborko1390
@danielborko1390 7 ай бұрын
Great job. How did you make the square grid? Maybe there is no pattern for it?
@gerryturley6070
@gerryturley6070 7 ай бұрын
Interesting build but this could have been the cabinet could have been made with a much much lighter with the whole top in plastic and a more sturdier leg frame.
@MrMarcinskij
@MrMarcinskij 7 ай бұрын
Nice build but whole construction is shaking, when laser engraved with high speed it can be a problem.
@butfirstcoffee1175
@butfirstcoffee1175 8 ай бұрын
The enclosure looks great what are the dimensions?
@sirfrancisarthur
@sirfrancisarthur 8 ай бұрын
looks okay, kind of crappy to access your stuff and bigger prints :\
@lancehu
@lancehu 8 ай бұрын
nice video! i would make one myself someday when i got the time. for the moment, i'm thinking about buying another fnatr enclosure for my neptune 4. i already got two for my ender 3 s1 and a1 mini and they work great.
@venomkraft1752
@venomkraft1752 9 ай бұрын
cool build dude
@hood1148
@hood1148 9 ай бұрын
which would u pick if u could only have 1: the Flashforge Adventurer 5M pro OR the Elegoo Neptune 4 pro?
@Liberty4Ever
@Liberty4Ever 9 ай бұрын
I've been using a 30 gallon clear garbage bag as a Neptune 4 Pro enclosure. I reinforced the bottom front, 6" high, using duct tape, and I put a couple of inches of duct tape on top with a hole for filament to enter my trash bag enclosure. I've printed a couple of hundred hours of ABS parts with no failures, using a 110 C bed, 255 C nozzle for the first layer and 230 C for subsequent layers. The 110 C bed passively heats the volume enclosed by the trash bag to 55 C.
@yeabutwecouldbefreer
@yeabutwecouldbefreer 9 ай бұрын
Unless you are doing this temporarily to 3d print the necessary items for an enclosure, and watching it, you just put flammables on top of a fire starter. I don't think homeowners insurance or rental insurance will pay for a non-UL listed trash bag modification to your 3d printer.
@Liberty4Ever
@Liberty4Ever 9 ай бұрын
@@yeabutwecouldbefreer - Working properly, there is nothing when ABS printing that would ignite polyethylene. The autoignition temperature of unchlorinated polyethylene is 226 C. Yes, the nozzle temperature is slightly higher when printing ABS, but that's in the melt zone. The outside of the nozzle is not hot enough to ignite polyethylene. However, safety requires us to design for things not working properly. My printer has thermal runaway protection to prevent the hot end from becoming a fire hazard, I have a smoke detector over the printer, I'm usually sitting next to the printer and if not I'm sleeping in the next room which also has a smoke detector and there is a smoke detector in the hall in between the bedroom and my lab/office. I initially tried to find a clear roasting bag large enough to enclose a printer and couldn't find one. I thought there might be some industrial application but I couldn't find any. I'm convinced that the addition of the plastic bag enclosure doesn't substantially increase the risk of 3D printing at home. Many people will disparage a reasonable solution like this because it sounds cheap but will think nothing of sending their prints to a Bambu server that is down, that is rebooted in the middle of the night (US time) to process the queued print job and crash the printer, which could easily damage the thermocouple lead and test the thermal runaway protection as the nozzle is buried in a mound of plastic. That's not a hypothetical situation. This recently happened and crashed many Bambu Lab printers including the destruction of their print heads. Or they'll buy their kid a cheap Chinese electric scooter with dubious lithium batteries that is recharged overnight under a pile of clothes in their bedroom closet.
@bigdaddy111058
@bigdaddy111058 9 ай бұрын
NEVER NEVER NEVER BUY AN ATOMSTACK A5. THE LENS IS INTERNAL TO THE MODULE. WHEN AND I MEAN WHEN...THE LENS CRACKS, YOU WILL HAVE TO BUY THE ENTIRE MODULE FOR $160! I SPEAK FROM EXPERIENCE. ON MY XTOOL D1 THE LENS CRACKS, WEARS OUT WHATEVER, IT'S $10 TO REPLACE! NOT TO MENTION THAT THE ATOMSTACK METHOD OF DETERMINING LASER DOT POSITION STINKS.
@fargarden
@fargarden 9 ай бұрын
Nice work. 2 questions: Why place the printer at an angle in the enclosure? (it seemed to create far more work and use more space) Have you tried the enclosure yet with a filament that would benefit from it (ABS etc)?
@its-movietime
@its-movietime 9 ай бұрын
I guess it's because if the printer moves back and forth, you don't want the enclosure to move as well in the same direction or it will vibrate as well in the same direction.
@Acuriz
@Acuriz 8 ай бұрын
its just a design-thing... he did want to have the opening of the box at the corner
@rbwoodwork1890
@rbwoodwork1890 9 ай бұрын
Nice! I think you need more air intake holes. Need to match the exhaust outlet at least. But I like the build for diy.
@sikspakgloryawaits4799
@sikspakgloryawaits4799 9 ай бұрын
i think inside is to hot for contoller
@canalboating
@canalboating 9 ай бұрын
Great Job,
@DjferreGarage
@DjferreGarage 9 ай бұрын
la stampante è bella da vedersi, non mi piace proprio.
@juliehadley8336
@juliehadley8336 9 ай бұрын
Looks really nice. Great job.
@seanamos9441
@seanamos9441 9 ай бұрын
Very nice job :)
@madmax2069
@madmax2069 Жыл бұрын
Using the side of the paint pen works a lot better than using the tip to repaint the strip, and easier if you was to paint it with the switch panel removed from the top.
@BluesfireTV
@BluesfireTV Жыл бұрын
I've found running these through an ultrasonic cleaner with a PCB cleaner solution followed by an alchol bath and some scrubbing with a tooth brush does wonders. Can't remember the last time I actually had to bend any pins thanks to it
@ku4uv
@ku4uv Жыл бұрын
Why would not go ahead and replace the capacitors while you had the thing apart?
@madmax2069
@madmax2069 Жыл бұрын
Probably because they didn't have any? I mean it's not like it's difficult to take apart
@Spider_Rico
@Spider_Rico Жыл бұрын
Wish I could send you mine for a fix but I live in the States.
@LITTLE1994
@LITTLE1994 Жыл бұрын
The model here is the Light Sixer. It's shocking a system so very old, 45 years, can still be worked on and restored today.
@madmax2069
@madmax2069 Жыл бұрын
Well, considering it's design, it shouldn't be surprising, pretty simple in design and pretty much everything is off the shelf components and only has 3 chips.
@lemonherb1
@lemonherb1 Жыл бұрын
Very nice restoration work! I've been using heat shrink tubing for re-enforcing the screw posts for repair as well as rebuilding them with UV cured resin for missing pieces. Another nice touch would be to use an aluminum polish for the switches to clean them up and make them shine. The raised details around the joystick have orange paint on them when new, so that's another good candidate for the paint pen to refresh.
@thetechietoffee
@thetechietoffee Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the feedback. Honestly, I did intend to use heat shrink on the screw posts, but forgot to do it. Good to know for the future that it’s a viable strengthening technique. I also forgot to polish the switches, I did polish the metal lever on my Galaxy Invader 1000 (previous video), but forgot about the Atari. As for the joysticks, I wasn’t sure whether they were painted or not as I couldn’t see any trace of residual paint at all. Looking at images online, some seem to be painted and some not. I do have a defective “Vader” Atari unit inbound from eBay which has a painted joystick.