Lot of the solar coding requires on a DC setup side to have the neutral (negative)wire hooked up to the switch now. You can't wire nut it or buss bar it

I like it

Hey I found a link to a little trick that makes it easier to get that number for wire into the terminal. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bK-WmNSk3KvRaWg.htmlsi=VNxsaldEB5IGUFCQ

sir please help me, 3:55 The data I have in the "SI_EF_TILTED_SURFACE_OPTIMAL_ANG" section shows ANN -999.0. how can i get the correct value? Thank You. my coordinate -6.924497, 108.461269 sir please help.

Thanks for the video. Are you saying that there should be a grounding system on the roof that covers the perimeter of the solar panel array, and that should be connected to its own copper rod in the ground? The frames of the panels themselves should then all be tied together and be presented to the earth terminal in the solar controllers or if using a solar inverter, to the inverter itself? I am completing a 40ft catamaran which has a 6kw solar panel array, two 10kw solar inverters, two 45kwh LiPO4 lithium battery banks and two 15kW electric outboard motors. I will be running the two hulls independent of each other, with 3kW of solar going to each solar inverter. I was thinking of doing four spike charge dissipators at the corners of the catamarans roof which would be linked together with 70mm2 cable. During weather that posed a risk of a lightening strike, I was going to then fit 4 removable large copper cables which would be attached to the spikes and draped into the water. None of this grounding would be attached to the frames of the solar panels, but would be to try to keep the charge of the localised sea area and the surrounding air above it, at an even voltage thereby reducing the risk of attracting a lightening strike. The cat is a solar cat so no mast to worry about. Does that solution sound likea good idea?

Wtf if I’m looking to see what size controller I need I don’t need cave man explanations as to what they are.

Excellent. Now, why do the PV installers not run a ground from the ground mount, via the wiring trench, to the ground rod which is going to be near the entrance panel/meter base?

Your a good teacher in a clear way

Great video! Just what I was looking for, a clear explanation of the different types of combinations of PV panels. Greetings from Argentina.

The best video that analyze this topic. Thanks

How much to do a zoom call and give me some advice?

Something every mismatch solar panel video fails to mention is the Diodes. The lower value diodes in smaller panels must be changed to the value of the diodes your highest output panel .

need the whole formuala in pdf form pleas

Thank you Sir.

well, done I'll have to go over it a few times as i am getting it in my thick head. sometimes i get more the second time remembering electricity kills. Can never be dilly Dalling around with any type of voltage thanks for your time.

So I have 25-year-old solar panels and they don't have diodes so I think you've just cleared me in to why my system continues to test low, plus I was testing on DC which I thought was accurate and getting a low reading so thank you for pointing that information out I love how in-depth you are

Looks like a older spider man

Thanks so much for the video

Does 230v fuse work 12v system

Very interesting video Congratulations Sir

This is wild, never thought adding a panel would hurt the efficiency of the system. Thank you for info!

I think it is important to consider the length of the run of wire, and the purpose/inverter used. Lower voltage can be better for batteries and higher voltage for a grid tie inverter.

Amazing discussion. Thanks a lot Sir

Thank you so much.😊

Thank you for posting a educational video.

In the last diagram with the 5 panels you could have wired them for 40V 10A with 400 watts and 100% array efficiency. 40V 5A for two 100watt panels in series. Then the one 100watt in series with the two 50W panels but those 50W panels would be in parallel so they combined would equal a 100W 5A panel. They could have also be wired for 80V 10A for 400W and 100% array efficiency. In both configs just imaging turning the two 50W 2.5A panels into one 20V 5A panel then wiring the rest up. Also your wiring on the last diagram would likely burn out the two 50W panels. You're trying to connect a 60V 5A strand to a 40V 2.5A strand that would likely burn out the smaller 50W panels. The voltage and current cannot be mismatched in this manner when connecting in series or parallel. In series, the current has to be the same through both strands, which isn’t the case here. The panels wired to produce 40V, 2.5A cannot handle the 5A current that the 60V strand can handle, which could indeed lead to the lower-rated panels being damaged or burned out. In parallel, the voltage across both strands has to be the same, which also isn’t the case here. Therefore, connecting these two strands as depicted would likely cause failure in the lower-rated panels due to overcurrent. The appropriate method is to match panels with the same ratings in series and the same in parallel to prevent any damage and ensure proper functionality.

Avoid parallel. String is king

Perfect thanks for breaking it down with your simple examples.

Where did you get 300 volts from in your formula at the 10:20 mark? If the panels are in parallel, which in you example they are since the amps of each panel are added together, the voltage of the three panels together should remain the same which according to the label on the back of the panel in your example the open circuit voltage is 21.2v (at the 6:12 mark). So, the voltage (the bottom number) in your formula at the 10:20 mark should be 21.2 not 300! The only way you could get 300 would be to add the wattages of all three 100 watt panels. That would give you 300 but, of course, that would not be voltage which your formula calls for. Can you explain where I have misunderstood or your example is wrong? Because, I am confused. thank you PS: All that talk about the inverter etc. does not apply to my application because the panels feed a charge controller which, in turn, feeds my LifePO4 battery.

could you make a video or describe what to do for an off-grid solar PV + battery (not-grid-tied, no-grid) situation?

Thank you for this is what I need, just tested my 50w panel today as you explained it showing me 2.3A on the sun seems to me ok

Hey, thanks for the video. We live in a rental property in the UK and I'd like to put a panel/some panels on the balcony. Given that we rent and the panels would be visible from the street (and I haven't exactly asked the landlord) I'm looking at keeping my system as low key as possible. To that end, I'm debating multiple smaller panels in parallel (5x20w panels maybe?) rather than 1x100w panel. Rather than using a whole bunch of MC4 connectors, my idea is to run positive and negative "bus" cables all the way from the battery to the furthest away panel and then have each of the other panels on the way wired directly into the "bus" cables. I know I would have to use the right size cable to handle the combined current, but can you see anything obviously wrong/dangerous with that? Thanks in advance.

wire nuts will burn at 100 amps

Hi, do you provide services like inspection of solar system for a fee?

This is the best video on the topic

That electric bill must be from a hot place

Why does the multimeter dance around when no load is connected to it?

In your last example, would i be correct in assuming that adding two more of the 50 watt in series with the other 2 50 watt panels, your efficiency would go back up to 100%? Great video by the way!

Thank you for your time I learned a lot

Excellent presentation- thank you very much for the outstanding info

Sorry but in first half of video you have to connect inverter on output of charge controller

Keep it simple for morons?

Why would you ground a DC system to earth as the neutral is floating. Wouldn't it be wise to make a lightening rod system to attract unwanted lightening strikes to safely carry it to earth? Cars, trucks, motorhomes all are powered by a DC systems and are not earth grounded as well as boats. We have DC as well as AC aboard our boat and no earth ground.

Good 👍 stuff.

in your previous calculation to determine the number of panels you got 12 panels based on the consumption and the peak sun hrs, now u get 7 to 9 modules when u calculate to determine the size of the inverter ... i don't understand. do we use 12 panels or 7 to 9 panels?

Then, I can assume, that a combiner (of separate solar panel series strings) can no be an ‘adder combiner’? I have two identical strings of 255watt panels (wired in series), coming into a combiner box. However, each series array, is on opposite sides of the roof. Neither string will have the same voltage/current, except at about noon. Although, the voltage is most often the same, the currents (wattage generated) are not the same! How do I ‘maximize’ this setup?

Great video, did not know that.

Are you a jew?

Are you a jew?

This lowest common denominator, is it not BS??? I mean, if you have 200000 panels of total 20 volts and 2 panels of total 15 volts, you really think that the whole shibang is gonna come down to 15 volts? i don't, i had 6 panels putting out 60 volts and then i made a mistake wiring 2 more, and they only put out 30 volts(i did not put these 2 in series, like the others--3P2S); i fixed that a week later; meantime, the wattage stayed the same as if the 2 last panels were not there; that is why i saw some' was wrong; Remember, they have DIODES to protect them from being"charged" by higher voltages; i see this deal of the lowest voltage ALL OVER the Net and of KZfaq, so i must be wrong ?