Well, I just ordered my fan, it overheated during inspection, smoke everywhere, lol, I was having AC issues, but never overheated till today, and I turned the entire ventilation system off while getting inspected, hopefully something I can tackle 🤞🏼 thanks for the video.

Finally I understood the behaviour. I can do it also with an Arduino pin PWM piloted. Thanks a lot!

21mm is so not right for our large rigs. Hellwig has a 1.5" I am thinking about.

Excuse me Sr , do you have an email , I would like to know how did you config the sensor in mach, and how did you calibrate it ,

I have a cnc machine with a controller richauto and I want to know if you can install the same setting u have there (touch screen, Xbox controller, solidstate relay to control coolant and a vacuum, and probe) It's possible for you to travel to New windsor NY

When you start it up, you have to dial in the probe with the volume buttons until the green LED lights up permanently. That's why it resets after every startup. Use the LED, not the tone.

Dodge industrial is only the one made in America that make bearings and mounts. Dodge is the best. Timken no longer make in America.. Make America great again.

What !? It seams to be fast at printing absolutely nothing...

Whoa crazy stuff!

So I'm in the bag of worms with this one here ok first KAMP is amazing for Klipper it also has ups and downs, biggest one for me is and it's mixed is the bed prob before every print where the print is going to be so it does a bed map of only what you are going to print now saying that with a well leveled bed it's like a once and done for the bed on one full bed mesh in any spot. Where it shines is in smart park and if you be a little bit lazy or a fucked up bed the Adaptive Meshing is amazing!

Also add X bracing to the side panels to help with the shaking I would do X bracing on the left, right sides and the top and the back, some more weight in the bottom would help to or you could bolt it down as well. I would also change the size of the belt gears then run it at 1.5A again before pushing more power into the motors you can make gears cheaper than burning out motors.

It maybe the camera but it looks to be stickin a bit and isn't sliding smoothly again it could be the camera. Also have you tried bigger belt gears so that you get more belt movement in one given rotation? Also fire as shit, you should be almost completely done with it.

Yeah, we use a similar "home to bottom" system. We have endstops on each Z at the bottom and also a BLTouch. The Klipper home script first homes all Z motors to the bottom to attain a safe starting value from any position, then moves up to do bed tilt. 👍

Can you use this for a bike

Having the same issue on my 2007 6.0

just an fyi I have the same charger and yes it does work on deep cell batteries but is no supposed to be used for them it is meant for car style batteries and lawnmower or motor cycle batteries so long as they aren't lithium and are lead acid be careful what ya play with you can cause fires or severe damage to expensive things

Great video thx for sharing

For context, I don't have an electronics background, so I was wondering if you could shed some insight into the matter. What are the pros/cons of 1000uF electrolytic caps over 10uF ceramic caps? I've read that ceramic caps have lower ESR - whatever that means 🤔 Did you add any extra circuitry besides the caps, or can I simply follow suit and solder some to VCC and GND of my stepsticks? Since the TMC2240 technically also support 36V, do you have any plans on bumping them up to said higher Voltage? I'm not sure if most mainboards have a 36V mode, but I'm also curious if it's feasible to use a soldering iron to push the VCC Nad GND pins upwards so they don't interface with the mainboard socket below and to be powered instead by a dedicated 36V psu directly rather than taking 24V (or 36V if possible) from the mainboard - all the while still receiving uART signals from said mainboard 🤔

I'm doing a tesla style radio in mine

Very nice! Now you just need a hotend/extruder combo to keep up with the flow!

Looking good!

I have doubt that those external add-on MOSFET boards are that great an idea... i mean the ones built in on this generation of boards are quite efficient and don't need much cooling. The external board ones must be arcane; plus they bypass the board fuses don't they.

If it works, it's better than ours. After weeks of scraping and tuning we gave up on the thing, the saddle clamp track milling is off by like 5mm so the saddle basically can't be held down without a ton of reworking (or a large mill, I am trying to convince my cousin to let me use his Bridgeport to fix it...). I hear that's a pretty comon problem with minilathes.

I always level mine off of the frame not the bed.

This is the exact issue I'm having now, and have been dealing with it for about 10 days. When I open the freezer door, I get airflow out of the top vent coming into the fridge, but with the freezer door closed, I can barely feel anything. I tried your hot water trick, but the water is just pooling in the opening. I sucked out as much water as I could and then used a blow dryer for about 10 minutes, but it didn't help. Do you have any other ideas on how to open up that frozen return air vent? Maybe I should just continue to try hot water?? I've already cleared out the drain from inside the freezer because it was frozen over. Water drained into the pan afterward. I just can't get the water to drain out from this return air vent from the fridge. Thanks to anyone who helps me. I truly appreciate it.

You're aligning it to the bed though, not the Z extrusions? So if the bed is not square to Z motion, the print's XZ plane will be skewed even with mesh probing. Especially because with this style the bed screws let you put it out of square, the build has no inherent "close enough" squareness? I guess it depends on the desired accuracy level 😄

They sell 2,4,6 blocks too. If you have a manually leveled bed You can lay them on their side to spare 6” and level a good chunk of the bed levelers just by looking for light/gaps.

I used craftsman snap ring plyers. Wow taking me 4 days to do both sides. I never even knew about the new dust shields. Lol

Okay. I had this problem with a fridge I recently took out of storage. I... 1) Unplugged the fridge. 2) Removed the back of the freezer panel. 3) Unplugged the wiring harness. 4) Noticed the fan wouldn't spin freely. 5) Removed the fan/ motor. 6) Removed the small electric motor. 7) Took the two small long bolts holding the motor together. 8) Cleaned the rust and residue of the magneto ( part surrounding the small motor) and the small motor. 9) Put the motor back together and tried successfully to spin it. After I felt it spinning with no resistance, I reassembled the motor back into the surrounding bracket, plugged the fan blade back onto the small shaft, the bracket onto the panel, plugged the panel back in, and screwed it back into place. 10) I cleaned out the stained porthole for transferring the cold freezer air down into the lower section of the fridge... Now it runs GREAT!! I hope this learning experience helps!!

Too much wire noise there and a missing stop bit or something. Many adapters are crap as well.

Samsung galaxy amp 2 good

Super great explanation of how it all works. Thankyou!

can you please tell the exat model , because I can't find it anywhere and the link is not working anymore

Run Test_speed macro always for acceleration & speed testing

Thanks for the vid. Ive had my simple metal since 2015, and put a extended heated bed on it 6 months into ownership with a xbox360 psu and ssr and went to a e3d extruder and like yours, still running today although finally I started to get bad banding in prints, so I looked and my Y axis lm8uu's were noisy and I replaced them and the rods & I stretched my Z to 340mm and added a 3rd Z rod as a stiffener outboard & a new metric leadscrew & delrin nut for a 2024 freshen up. While it was apart, I found the Z axis pulley had worked loose again on the Z, doh! probably the only fault all along. I came here looking for info about klipper wondering if I could run it on the marlin board itself but my board and extrudrboard is ok and I use octoprint on a bbb so maybe not the skr mainboard yet as I'm thinking about a ender 5 plus with a core-xy conversion to keep it company as they seem pretty hackable too. My son's pushing me to the ender because he thinks I'm going to gift it him like I did my elgoo mars resin when I upgraded to a photon mono x, but no chance, I love my little bot still because its been such a great tool all these years.

minimum layer time??

So a couple things that you are going to want to check in Orca; - Make sure to change you machine limits in the printer settings under motion ability, its likely set lower than the setting you have set in the print profile and will limit the speeds and accels (be sure to change accel while extruding). - I would use 100% accel to decel. You are correct in your assumptions made during the video. - Increase your Jerk/SCV, I personally use 50 for super fast printing and 12 for normal stuff. Rule of thumb is 1 jerk/scv for every 1000mm/s³ of accel. - Make sure to uncheck slow down for better cooling in the filament settings, and change your flowrate to reflect the max of your hotend. Orca will limit speeds to not exceed flowrate. These should fix most of the issues with the slicing for fast prints. I would also change minimum cruise ratio to 0 in klipper, and make sure your jerk/square corner velocity is set to what ever you end up using in the slicer.

For the speed, what is the difference in the gcode itself? Are the generated feedrates incorrect? Is that a Volcano/CHT or custom? Have you measured the actual flow vs. extrusion rate curve? 800mm/s x 0.2 x 0.42 = 67.2mm^3/s, that's a lot! I certainly haven't been able to get that out of a Volcano, even with the Triangle PCD CHT insert nozzle. And, have you thought about implementing some kind of spring buffer on the frame side of the filament (like mounting the extruder on some kind of compliant mount maybe)? It seems like the head is going to be pulling a lot on the filament as the bowden tube curve changes shape at these speeds.

How much would you charge to try and see if you could recover some battery's for me

um, uhh, ummm, uhhhh, uhhhhhh, if you didnt say uh so much this video would only have been 2 minutes/// so ummm,, uhhhh.. maybe try working on , ummmm, you know,, uhhhhh, trying not to say uhhhhhhhhhh so much..

any idea why BTT suggests to power the external drivers first and then power the board? Is it just overzealous? PS: just found your channel, subb'd immediately, thanks for sharing your knowledge

Very nice!!! I wish I had a printer that could run that fast to do some scope captures but I don't currently. We need to know what is actually going on with the supply and if printer baseboards need more capacitance on them! My "fast" printer right now is running TMC2209, 1.45A, 8K accel. I only have 300uF on that entire rail. I am a bit embarrassed to say I didn't choose that value based on testing or theory but just based on what other people have been doing. I am going out to set up a scope on the board now 😅

Have you ever seen sumo robot fights? They're really neat, only 3kg and huuuuge current draw. They use some huge capacitors in their motor drivers exactly for this purpose.

Not true

Excellent video - great diagnostic procedure, having the same issue with my SRX, thanks !

Unfortunately, the real problem here is that the polulu driver form factor sucks for cooling. The heat sink surface area is a joke. These drivers are designed to be attached to a large ground plane, where you could attach a much larger heat sink (and the ground plane acts like a pretty good heat sink by itself, better than one of those tiny ones you stick on a polulu). That's why manufacturers like Duet use drivers soldered to the main board.

Have you tried water cooling, in ham radio amplifiers LMDOS transistors it's becoming very popular. Less current, less heat, etc etc. Only issue is that if plumbing design is not robust enough you can get leaks

Opto, not octo lol

I want to use my Aux switches to power a CB.

Nice share,now i'm trying to revive a wanhao :)) Btw, shoud i go with a voron 2.4 of buy sovol 08? thanks.