This is not the wright video

Years later thanks for the video

When lowering the regulator yours goes down with no air flow threw the system My system has to have airflow moving in order to see the reduction on the regulator gauge Whats the difference?

I bought a regulator valve but if i put the female adapter on fhe regulator it cannot be show and change on the regulator gage. If i remove the adapter then you can read the gage ???

I was goven a senco pc1010. I was trying to get it going but although it pushes air, the tank doesnt fill. Now I see it doesnt even have the regulator and guages assembly at all. Is this why it pushes air thriugh the copper pipes but nothing goes into the tank ?

Hey bro does this mean it’s trash it’s bad ??

I dont care how they work i just need something besides Harbor freight junk

Would this cause the oil cap to pop ?

Thanks for your knowledge, I've watched all your videos and i now know what i needed to learn.

Great video! But I have a question... Let's say I have a 6-gallon 150 PSI air compressor. If I set the regulator gauge to 35 PSI to fill my car's tires, can I be confident that they will be filled to that pressure without the need to check them with a tire pressure gauge?

Any brand name engine oil will work fine. Air compressors are just normal engines without the addition of a combustion / power stroke. If in doubt either 10W30 or 5W20 motor oil will work just fine. Synthetic oil is the best though for its overall longevity and lubricating properties.

How to service?

thanks for taking the time to share your info!

DeWalt air compressor builds pressure but won't come on of hose or coupler

That answered my question quickly!

My compressor builds up to 50 psi but won’t go higher??

Use this regulator and oiler combination to replace the one on my CNC miller. After 1 month still works as intended. Excellent value for the money.

0:40 is where any actual information begins

ty

What is the purpose of the unloader valve

Why

how come mine has loud air leak when i turn it clockwise (that is supposed to release air) needle only reach 2 marks and can't go higher because of air leaking from the knob. could it be defective

Bill, I have a Craftsman 30 gal upright that came with 3/8" hose. My 1/2" drive Earthquake air wrench couldn't get a Honda crankshaft bolt loose so I upgraded the hose and fittings to 1/2" but still didn't get enough air. I had to choke the air with a 1/4"x1/2" adaptor at the regulator, so that's probably the problem. Recently, I couldn't even break a Rheem water heater anode loose with it. Granted I had about a 75' hose run from the garage to the attic. The current regulator won't hold air anyway and leaks down after about a week unplugged. Is there a way to replace it with a larger one to take advantage of the 1/2" hose and fittings I have invested in? Or, is the actual hole into the tank small too (1/4") and this inadequacy is sort of "baked in" to the compressor? I don't want to invest that much money to get a large 60 gal tank to get the 1/2" regulator. Before I do that I would just put the smaller more manageable 3/8 hose back on, change all the fittings back, and buy a $300 electric Milwaukee wrench for the big jobs. What do you think?

kzfaq.info

ppl

After 9 years, u are prob not answering comments. Most cheap regulators are more like an air flow meter. Put a pressure gauge after the regulator and measure the pressure when there is no airflow, and it will be similar to tank pressure. When there is air flow pressure reduces. This is bad for a tool like pop rivet tool, rivet nut tool etc, which has a pressure vessel and diaphragm. Runner those outputs max pressure. In the case of a rivet nut tool, on small river nuts, it tears the thread out

Is there a reason that the relief value can't replace the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Would be nice to have it blow out water at the same time I test it

This may or may not be a helpful video you can't hear a damn thing he says

Can I just bypass it, and put a small one next to tool?

The oil filled gauge on my compressor broke off at the fitting. I bought a new one but don't know anything about the oil or how to get it filled. Can you help?

Hi. I think you’re just the guy who might be able to help me. I have a Quincy 54 compressor. Two stage 60 gallon and I’m inserting an aftercooler between compressor and tank. I will describe the plumbing as it came from the factory. From compressor outlet there is a 1/2” copper tube that goes down to the tank. Just before the tank is a brass fitting that has a PRV on one side and a 1/4” copper tube on the other. The copper tube comes out and connects to the pressure sensor. I will use a high pressure/temperature flexible hose to go from compressor to cooler. So I need to remove the 1/4” copper tube and replace it with a 1/4” flexible line that connects the pressure sensor and the large flexible hose at the compressor outlet. I think that will take care of my unloader valve. But what about the PRV at the tank entrance? It can’t be for the tank because that has a check valve. So it must be for the plumbing between compressor and tank. Does this mean I need to move it to my 1/4” line between pressure sensor and compressor outlet? Sorry for all the words. Hard to describe without photos. But I think that PRV needs to be relocated so it’s still attached to the pressure sensor line. Thanks for your attention. I liked your quick and to the point video. Paul

Nice post thanks 👍

My compressor starts working and builds pressure up to 150psi but sometimes during work it will not start and won't keep tank charged. Sometimes it turns on only for a few seconds then goes quiet. Sometimes I hears something that it wants to start like air going somewhere through the pipe for about 2 second and then quiets and stays like that. Fails to keep up pressure in tank when I use it. Pressure goes low as 50psi but compressor doesn't start. Then I had to open drain valve to release remaining air pressure in the tank. Disconnect it from AC power for few minutes and it starts working again build up to 150psi again. I don't hear any air leaks. What could be wrong how to fix?

You saved me so much time. I was tired of searching for this

Thank you sir!

Simple and sweet. Thanks!

Not sure how to ask this ... The regulator keeps the extra air/pressure in the tank and just use as much as set on the dial ? Or it is released normally and the extra pressure is redirected to another output orifice ? e.g will the pressure last longer if set on lower at the regulator ?

Question: how do you know your regulator is passing that amount of pressure on the dial,? Or if the dial is functioning

Bill? Aww now thats Blake Shelton and you know it 😜

Thank you very much for this video, it answered some questions I had perfectly.

Excellent! I finally get it.

wow

Well said ,thanks

If all these other air compressor videos were as clear and helpful as yours on this matter, yours would not stand out as much as it does. Kudos to you....and thanks!!!

This was perfect. Very good explaination. I totally understand this now.

Thank you, this was very helpful for a newbie!

thank you for the info .

Thanks!

thanks much...well done

But do I really need a regulator? I think I lose more flow to my air impacts using these regulators, and restrictive fittings. Besides spray guns, what air tool needs less pressure than I can get from my home compressor? Air guns, ratchets, cut off wheels, die grinders, all need max pressure. I can think of no reason to run a regulator, and they cause a restriction that makes my impacts under perform.