When you say “what’s left of the Hillary steps” what is that referring to? Erosion? Thanks loving this story, your deeply researched videos & pithy clapbacks in the comments lol
@andreaphillips759513 сағат бұрын
I’m not sure why it matters so much WHO is telling the most accurate remembrance. The entire thing took place at altitudes that human beings are not meant to function well at. Maybe NOONE is lying, but telling the story in the way that they remember it. Oxygen deprivation can do a job on human memory and people’s ability to make good judgment calls. It was no ones fault. Krakauers retelling may be to the best of ability to remember accurately
@bennobeck19 сағат бұрын
Very interesting and informative. Thanks!
@kikim611622 сағат бұрын
Just watched a video of Krakauer narrating a PowerPoint presentation of the climb. It seems very old. During entire presentation Krakauer criticizes his actions or lack of action. People are dying around him and he stays in his tent because was physically compromised. He also states repeatedly that he was not thinking clearly due to lack of oxygen. Didn’t seem to try to make himself a hero at all. The presentation is also very, very clear about the 2pm turn around rule they’d all been given. I have zero climbing experience but the 2pm turn around was driven into my head while reading his book.
@golden1789Күн бұрын
Loved the Cluedo reference!
@golden1789Күн бұрын
This is a brilliant series. Thank you.
@smoothkaracho93922 күн бұрын
5:02 At first I thought there was someone sitting in the middle/top left of the picture, legs stretched out and crossed, but I'm wrong, it's probably just an optical illusion 🤣🤣
@strucccy46052 күн бұрын
Why does the Pecans screws make the Chinese look bad ? I dont understand. Why lie and say they climbed on shoulders ?
@GirlWhoWaitedPa3 күн бұрын
Who’s initials are TL and DR
@coreymadden36503 күн бұрын
Pittman was short roped up..
@michaeltracy23563 күн бұрын
She is still taller than Jon.
@GirlWhoWaitedPa4 күн бұрын
Love your channel! You keep it real and tell the truth instead of glorifying krakkauer
@el-Cu94324 күн бұрын
Remembering back to 1984 means you have an incredible memory now! That was only like a little less than 40 years ago. Thats just having a normal memory.
@dr.nigelcool37714 күн бұрын
"Once the obstruction was removed, the watch started ticking (18:55)." Amazing that it started working after 75 years in those extreme conditions. They don't make watches like that anymore.
@GirlWhoWaitedPa4 күн бұрын
Where’s the Part 2 of Bidlemans choice? Thank you love the fact you tell the truth and not keep glorifying Krakaur
@mchandrashekhar40434 күн бұрын
Good Analysis ,Michael 👍
@rebeccaprudhomme43564 күн бұрын
Thanks for making these videos. I read Krakauer’s illustrated edition of “Into Thin Air” and it always bothered me that there weren’t more photos that matched up with his claims. It’s like Krakauer substitutes himself in the place of other people and takes on their actions as being his own… multiple times! If there is an account of someone doing something, Krakauer writes in his book that it was he who did that, as opposed to the person who actually did it. It’s his book so why not include himself in it as much as possible? Even if that means folding some “lesser character’s” moments into his “main character.” It’s beyond frustrating how many people repeat what he wrote in his book as if it’s undisputed truth.
@WilliamCurry-bh3dk5 күн бұрын
D O O M E D
@JoshuaNorton-ki6uf5 күн бұрын
Micheal Ryan's summit video I've watched this three times now and it's certainly answered a lot. For one, looking at the sequence of transferring both a simple carabiner and a jamming carabiner around each anchor point does explain Rob Hall's statement that he didn't think his frozen hands could handle the fixed ropes. (It might also explain why Bruce Herrod died apparently tangled in the fixed ropes). Second, Michael mentions on the descent that his personal sherpa is hurrying him along, and even doing all the unclipping and clipping for him - there's a man who knows where things go wrong. Looking at the few seconds of them descending in that slippery slope that Neil wanted to avoid, I now agree that even with two incapacitated clients, Neil and Mike Groom should have been able to manage them (provided they had enough ropes, possible only Mike Groom had a rope?) As an aside here, Neil's choice was (obviously) correction - possibly- made with the agreement of Mike Groom and the two Sherpa who joined them, so was it more of a consensus decision? The final thing I agree with you on is the absurdity of Lobsang actually pulling Sandy up those steep parts. I have an alternative explanation, based on two things from Lene's book. I think he was simply keeping her with him so that he (and Scott) knew she would have the best chance of getting up to the summit, because, of all Scott's clients, Sandy would be the jewel in the crown because of her publicity connections. My basis for this conclusion comes from Lene's book . P123, on the climb to camp 3 Sandy feels ill and Lene slows to climb with her, subsequently P132 Scott uses her slow climb rate to say he no longer backs her plan to climb without O2. She is not pleased. Then, P144 Lene notices Scott and Neal are timing her and the others. So Scott is obviously working out who is in what sort of shape. Lobsang's apparent exhaustion at the balcony is therefore not due to his hauling somebody up the slope, it's because he has the extra gear for the "stunt", and as Lene has mentioned several times, he was already coughing and vomiting before even reaching camp 4.
@OverTheLineSmokey6 күн бұрын
also, 3 bottles of oxygen is pretty much the same as 4. ---JK
@WilliamCurry-bh3dk6 күн бұрын
are they certain pictures of MALLORY face for CERTAIN face pictures were taken ???? ???
@michaeltracy23566 күн бұрын
Thom Pollard has said he took them. He was one of the two people who dug the body up on May 16th and took Mallory's pants, underwear, boots, watch, etc. Head over to his KZfaq channel and ask him about it if you really really need to know.
@1unsung9716 күн бұрын
Thank you. Exacting and objective analysis as always.
@eric-wb7gj6 күн бұрын
Thank you Michael 🙏🙏. Are there any stats on successful summits of those using less oxygen compared to those using more in the better funded expeditions, or do things like weather or age tend to be more important than oxygen carried?
@GirlWhoWaitedPa4 күн бұрын
You have to also take into consideration that some climbers like Anitoli Bukriev were born and live at high altitudes as opposed to others who live lower elevations
@jjzap29356 күн бұрын
I have a crisp one dollar bill that says NO correction by Krakauer! Anyone going to take that bet?
@rabarbarum6 күн бұрын
Curious indeed. I remember being puzzled by this number.
@williammorris44196 күн бұрын
nerdy non climber
@rhobot756 күн бұрын
Who, you? Bc Mr Tracy has summited Everest at least once. You must have missed the vids here and there where he mentions or shows his own photos/ footage. Tho he might agree he can be nerdy, having written a textbook to do with, I believe, computer programming. Cheers
@griffith500tvr6 күн бұрын
This is getting boring, is there nothing more interesting happening in the history of mountaineering?
@kris68506 күн бұрын
nobody is forcing you to watch that particular video and waste time to comment if you're not interested, is that really so hard to understand for some folks?
@aeromodeller16 күн бұрын
This is the history of mountaineering. Historians constantly examine and reevaluate evidence and conclusions.
@rhobot756 күн бұрын
You being held prisoner on this teeny tiny You Tube.
@griffith500tvr6 күн бұрын
@@kris6850 I like Michael's videos and I am aware that Krakauer is a liar so there is no need to go on and on about it, and I did not watch the video.
@NoPitBullLeftBehind6 күн бұрын
Considering the lack of facts these days in pretty much everything in life, I don't find an issue with someone giving extra facts about a situation. Especially since the facts being given, or corrected, are about a story told by someone who is referenced frequently only because their version of events just happened to become the most "famous".
@Clanner6666 күн бұрын
One has to wonder how the death toll might have turned out, if Sandy Pittmann had used a sword instead of her ice axe.
@rebeccaprudhomme43566 күн бұрын
She didn’t need either of them, because she caused the storm.
@NoPitBullLeftBehind6 күн бұрын
The devil whispered "you can not handle the storm". Sandy Pittman replied "I am the storm." -John Krakauer
@sebamiekus17576 күн бұрын
tracey is up like 20-0 against krakour...
@XxXx-sc3xu6 күн бұрын
Thank you for the thorough comparisons! it is neat to learn how much more difficult it was not that long ago.
@sharonsplat7 күн бұрын
So excited ❤
@jackharle12517 күн бұрын
Thank you, Michael. Always look forward to your unbiased study and analysis.
@TheSaxon.7 күн бұрын
I'm holding my breath, Jon.🤢
@user-ct8my8rv9c7 күн бұрын
These videos started out as informative but now come across as a personal vendetta against Krakauer.
@michaeltracy23567 күн бұрын
No one forces you to watch them. And if you have to point it out to other viewers, then perhaps it is not as obvious a "personal vendetta" as you think. Not sure why you bothered posting this.
@MrBucketlist7 күн бұрын
All you got to do is watch into thin air and everest 2015 back to back and you'll see all you need to know about John. He's a fraud and a coward.
@kikim611622 сағат бұрын
Projection?
@3girlrumba38 күн бұрын
Why didn't they use the meth in the syringe ? Is that not whats its for
@pp77bb9 күн бұрын
continuing forensic destruction of Krak's narrative, has to be admired. Excellent as ever , MT . Had already watched the fab young Ryan's (and his super fit/fast sherpa) video. His descent video is even better than his ascent.👌👋
@davejob6309 күн бұрын
The idea of climbing Everest has really lost it's mojo...personally I'd be happy to look on in awe.
@user-if1de8pt2j10 күн бұрын
Out of interest, from Charlotte Fox's 1997 account: "Lines were not fixed by Sherpas, who were to leave (and did not) two hours earlier than the clients." She also mentions Anatoli and Krakeur fixing lines for the rest of the group, who had to wait as this hadn't been dine by the Sherpa
@michaeltracy23569 күн бұрын
You are just inventing things without reading what you wrote. Where does she say they waited on lines to be fixed? She didn't. She said the opposite. She said they were waiting on the oxygen. "After waiting for more than an hour the oxygen bottles finally arrived and someone produced just enough rope for Anatoli to fix the Step;..." As I have stated numerous times, they were waiting for the oxygen to arrive. The climbers (Fox included) had been climbing up on 100% fixed ropes prior to summit day. Many incorrectly assumed that 100% of the route would have been fixed -- just as 100% of the route below the South Col was fixed. This was just an incorrect assumption. It did not cause anyone to wait. Simply taking a quote and trying to make it say what you want is disingenuous. All she says is that some Sherpas didn't fix the route -- a fact we all agree on. What she does not say is "Because the Sherpa didn't fix the route, we have to wait for it to be fixed." That is simply not true. Instead, "Because the Sherpa didn't fix the route, we climbed without fixed ropes." Fox, like Gammelgaard chose to wait at South Summit for Boukreev to head over and fix the Hillary Step. As it took Boukreev a few minutes to fix the step, this wait was about 10-15 minutes. They could have mitigated it by starting out from South Summit earlier, but 10-15 minutes is not a big deal. The delay at the Hillary Step was caused by Yasuko Namba -- not people waiting on ropes to be fixed.
@user-if1de8pt2j9 күн бұрын
@@michaeltracy2356 It's sounded to me like the lack of fixed ropes ahead of time caused delays. She says it a number of times. e.g. from her 1997 account, A Time to Live, A Time to Die: "After more waiting for Anatoli and the Rob Hall client, Jon Krakauer, to fix the line.."
@michaeltracy23569 күн бұрын
You are just doing "history by quotation." You find a quote that you think fits your theory and then take it to mean exactly what you want it to mean without any regard for reality. Krakauer didn't fix any line. So, if she was waiting on Krakauer to fix a line, she was going to be waiting a long time. What she is referring to is waiting for them to make the traverse over to the Hillary Step where Boukreev would fix the line. There is a photo of the time shortly after that -- I do a whole video on it. Fox would have been close to Lopsang and is below Pittman. So, Fox is in the line of people somewhere and is walking -- not waiting. When she is walking, all the ropes ahead of her are fixed. So, where is she waiting on anyone to fix a rope? She isn't. You want to take one quote that seems to agree with what you want reality to be and ignore everything else. When you read Gammelgaards account, it fills in the missing details. They agreed to stay together -- Fox and Gammelgaard, Madson, at that point. So, they waited together at South Summit until they all headed over together -- which can be seen in the photo from Scott Fischer. But you need so badly for them to be waiting on ropes to be fixed that you ignore everything else that anyone says. You ignore the photos. Everything so your theory can be correct. Fox waited for the oxygen to be brought up. She when voluntarily chose to wait at South Summit with her group while others went over the climb the Hillary Step -- Sandy Pittman, for instance. So, if Sandy Pittman is climbing the step, how is Fox waiting on ropes to be fixed at the same time? Fox's language is not entirely precise and that she is referring to Krakauer fixing some rope -- an event which never happened, you should not have your entire theory rely on that one quote. You can just quote Krakauer, "Rendered dumb with awe and fatigue, I took some photos, then sat down with guides Andy Harris, Neal Beidleman, and Anatoli Boukreev to wait for the Sherpas to fix ropes along the spectacularly corniced summit ridge." Krakauer, Jon. Into Thin Air (p. 186). It doesn't matter that Krakauer wrote that he was waiting on Sherpas to fix that rope. That section of rope was never fixed, so Krakauer clearly was not waiting on it. When you look at the other events around what happened at South Summit, you see that people were waiting on oxygen and not fixed ropes. Once the oxygen arrived, they immediately left to fix the ropes. But Krakauer has a problem with that story as his oxygen had not arrived. The Mountain Madness oxygen had. Instead, he makes the story that everyone was sitting around like a bunch of idiots waiting on fixed ropes. See, I quoted him saying that. But that doesn't make it true. Charolotte Fox's statement about waiting on the oxygen matches up with the account in The Climb as well as Krakauer's own account of when people arrived at South Summit. So, it is not just taking a quotation and saying "Fox says they were waiting on oxygen so it must be true." I look at all the fact around why people were waiting at South Summit and regardless of what Fox said, you could easily deduce that people were waiting on oxygen to be brought up. Krakauer and Harris left before their oxygen had been brought up -- and they ran out of oxygen. It was Krakauer's rush to get to the summit before their oxygen came up that was largely responsible for Harris' death. Hence, Krakauer changes the story so it is not obvious that Krakauer's rush to be the first to the summit is what killed his guide. Much better to blame it on "fixed ropes."
@JoshuaNorton-ki6uf10 күн бұрын
Ok, it sometimes takes me several readings before I start to see something. I've been looking at the part where you point out on Ryan's shots the steep ice slope and above it the gentler detour that was "The Choice". In going through the sequence leading up to that I've come up against what to me is a major discrepancy. Lene and Klev are descending, reach Yasuko, and pass her. Behind them is Mike Groom who will arrive at the Balcony "With Yasuko" according to Beck Weathers (Left For Dead speech on the David Snow channel).Mike, Yasuko and Beck then start to descend, caught up with by Neil and his group. Klev and Lene are in front of Yasuko until they have descended the slippery slope, see lights to the left, and go across to find most of the rest of their team plus Yasuko, Beck and Mike. How did the others get ahead of them? Is "The Choice" a significantly faster route than the slope? It doesn't look so on the shots you pointed out because it's two sides of a triangle with the slippery slope being the hypoteneuse. Lene and Klev were sharing oxygen but if that slowed them that much, how come the others with partial incapacity still got down to the edge of the South Col ahead of them? How come neither Lene nor Klev saw Beck when they passed the Balcony? If they passed Yasuko than they must have passed Beck when they came to the balcony, unless they too go off-route?
@michaeltracy23569 күн бұрын
Klev and Lee passed Namba well below the Balcony. Groom's version is different, and he does not have Namba with him when he encounters Weathers. Weathers was blind at the time, so it is not clear how he was able to see who was with Groom so clearly. He may have mistaken Martin Adams for Namba. Beidleman's Choice takes place on the largely flat portion of the climb shortly above South Col. Deviating a hundred yards to the skier's left and then backtracking 100 yards is much longer than the straight time distance --- just use Pythagorean theorem. Beck was sort of buried in the snow, it was getting dark, and they were not looking for people sitting in the snow. But their encountered Namba hundreds of feet below that. The Weathers account requires Groom to have told Namba to descend on her own while he assisted Weathers. Not only did Groom say this is not what happened, but it would be difficult to believe that even if Groom told her to go ahead by herself that she would listen to him. More than likely, if he did issue such a bizarre statement, she would have stayed with him. The only scenario that makes sense is Groom's account of him sending Namba down with Krakauer and Krakauer later abandoning her. Had she been alone at any time prior to that, Ang Dorje passed her and it is difficult to believe he would simply speed past her if she was alone. The most likely explanation for Ang Dorje not assisting her is that she was descending with someone else. As Groom reported meeting Dorje on his re-assent and Namba was clearly not climbing back up the mountain with Mike Groom to assist Rob Hall, this only leaves one other option -- that Groom's account is correct and Namba was descending with Krakauer.
@RyanMitchellYT10 күн бұрын
Awesome video. Thank you for providing such educational and accurate info on your videos. Its very common for some channels to botch everything about Everest to bring in attention, but i heavily respect and enjoy your real, thoughtful approach. Keep it up!
@michaeltracy235610 күн бұрын
Thanks for sharing. Great video of the SE Ridge route!
@YoungPadawan8510 күн бұрын
The whole butterfly over the mouth reference to silence of the lambs film in context of Messner successfully shutting up the trolls induced in me a visceral gutteral pirate type of laugh I love it, it is just absolutely righteous, also loving some the other comments here, two yeti's and unicorn farts LOL xDD
@rebeccacorbin159010 күн бұрын
Thank you for saving me from buying Krakauer's book. I was considering it.
@jaybrady893310 күн бұрын
Isn't hind sight a great thing!!! RIP to all who died and give strength to those who survived
@michaeltracy235610 күн бұрын
How is hind sight relevant to this video?
@jaybrady893310 күн бұрын
@@michaeltracy2356 Analysis of the past.
@stevqtalent10 күн бұрын
ngl calling the japanese and taiwanese climbers "westerners" was pretty confusing at first
@michaeltracy235610 күн бұрын
Then you didn't read Krakauer's book. These videos are for people who have read Krakauer's book "Into Thin Air". In that book, he refers to the Japanese climber as a "Westerner." As these videos are analyzing his book, I use the same language and explain what it means any why both Krakauer and myself use that language. Perhaps read the book first and then these videos will make more sense to you. If you are confused about Krakauer's use of the term, please contact him and tell him you were confused by it. Millions of others who read his book were not.
@Garde53810 күн бұрын
When I hear "upcoming video" it makes me happy as Larry
@romankrhounek597411 күн бұрын
Poor Charlotte Fox survived the storm only to die at home falling over a railing
@wilmabrand32111 күн бұрын
In Ryan’s videos when there was a black square like that, there was a dead body, and he was very respectful and did not want to show it
@wilmabrand32111 күн бұрын
I followed Ryan’s journey on Everest. I really enjoyed his journey and I loved how he shared it with us. 🇨🇦
@jaywhiting407011 күн бұрын
Sigh of relief knowing that you're back with another video. Was getting worried.