Toilet bowl water level can be adjusted using the fill valve. There are typically two "knobs" that control water level adjustments. One for bowl and one for water in the tank. You don't need a specific wrench just one that is big enough to fit around the nut on the bottom of the valve. An adjustable crescent wrench or channel lock pliers will do the job so long as they are big enough. My go to is channel lock pliers.

It would depend on the battery used. Ryobi currently sells six different 18 volt batteries, ranging from 1.5 amp up to 12 amp. Just like any battery, over time they will degrade and hold less charge so the age of the battery will also make a big difference.

I'm not sure I understand the question. The carpet should be bound all the way around. Pick a starting point, preferably one a long side and when you come back around to it you overlap the material by about 2 inches by opening the binding and cutting out the white center of it so it butts right against where you started. If you have binding three sides already and need to add binding to only one side you can either remove all the binding and start fresh or fill in the area with the new binding. In that case simply have each end of the new binding overlap just like you do to end when binding all four sides at once.

Every part of the toilet and tank can be found and purchased individually in the plumbing section of Home Depot or Lowes. So you don't have to replace everything in the tank if you have one broken part but the rest is all good.

The angle irons had initially be installed into the center support beam that runs through the room. But when I removed them and went to transfer them to the ceiling there were no studs directly in line with the the garage door rails. Yes I could have still made it work and the angle irons would have borne the weight. I preferred the idea of using a piece of wood to hit multiple joists in order to spread the load of the door and allow the angle irons to stay in line with the garage door rails.

The regulator is referring to the entire assembly, on the regulator is a small electric motor that lowers and raises the window. The motor if I remember correctly was fine, but parts of the regulator broke and since you can't buy them separately you are forced to replace the entire regulator as one unit. I she has already had to replace the driver side window regulator. Apparently this part suffers from a design flaw that makes it prone to failure. I don't believe she has had issues with the back seat doors yet and I'm not sure if they use the same design and part since its not my car.

It should be the same process for all the models, but just to be sure, I recommend checking the instruction manual that comes with the model you choose.

I just installed this same ecobee and have the exact wiring you do. I went from a Honeywell to this ecobee. I got it all set up and I am getting hot air when the ac is on. Do you have a idea on why this could be?

Okay lets troubleshoot. First turn the A/C on and crank the temperature down, go outside to your A/C compressor unit and check to see if it is actually running. It will be fairly loud so it will be obvious if it is or is not running. If the A/C compressor is running then you likely need to have the compressor recharged with freon by an HVAC repair tech. If it is not running go back inside and check to see if the furnace is running. If you can't easily access the furnace then put your hand up to one of your air vents and feel how hot the air is. If you have a laser thermometer aim it at the vent and get the temperature. You say it is "hot air" but air coming out the vents in summer without being cooled will be around 70-90 degrees. If the furnace is running though that air will be over 100 degrees. If the furnace is running when on A/C mode then the wiring is wrong (not saying you wired it wrong) but its possible when originally installed the wire colors were flipped and the one for AC went to furnace and vice versa. If the A/C compressor is off and the furnace is off so the only thing actually running is the fan then you could have an issue with your compressor and it is no longer receiving the command from the thermostat to start cooling. Double check your wiring to ensure it is in the terminal correctly if it is then you probably will need a HVAC tech to look at the A/C unit for issues. Oh double check your breaks haven't popped. A/C compressors and furnaces are usually on separate breakers so the thermostat could be on but the A/C can be off at the breaker. I hope this helps

I ended up using chalk paint to use up what I had on hand