I gotta '00 GTP and will be working on these real soon. Thanks for showing me what I'll be dealing with. I don't have a torch right now, so I'm gonna soak everything in pb blaster for at least a day. 🥃💯

And the POINT??? That’s ALL? Thanks for showing us all you know how to SPIN the wheel bearing!

This video helped a lot keep up the good work thank you!🙏

Does this video cover working on a 2010 dyna wide glide?

got se255 in my dyna, they feel great up top imo. great low end and still got plenty top end.

That tensioner is what is causing your comp to wear out I went with Hayden tensioner

Ford OEM coils rarely go bad. The red coil you had there was a cheap aftermarket replacement. You can pull the boots off the OEM coils and clean up any corrosion from the contacts. Replacement boots are available for cheap as well, if you have a boot with a tear or something.

Coil packs

Mine smoked a lot the first time I did it

It only takes 3 hours to do it by hand every one hundred thousand I use crc cleaner every 10000 miles it was surprisingly clean but down deep she was dirty

Thanks just about all we need!

Ain't nothing for the old girl

Can you tell me what mm socket the spindle nut is, maybe a 34mm?

I think what happened is when it started running a little rough when you're driving it I think a piece of cab and loosened up and got stuck on the valve for a second and then it blew off

The old "compensator bolt was loose, you got It loose to easily.

My 16’ streetglide w/34k. The filter was black. Just changed it.

Holy blow it up...lucky you caught ..spider gears it is...) thats a full floater.. the carrier would be in 2 halfs.if it was limited slip with clutches..) ...4:10's use a 35 spline axle...so you have update options...lol

You can get roughly 140,000 max out of a set of plugs before the truck can barely run

How do people let it get that bad?

I did everything right and mine seized at 64K miles. I changed it every 5K (OEM says 10K) with Rotella T6 5W40, changed fuel filters every 15K. Mine had the EGR cooler recall performed at 60K and they found the front main seal leaking for the 2nd time and fixed that as well. They also replaced the intake manifold, 1 valve cover and the turbo hoses as they were all melted from the EGR cooler issue, despite never throwing a code. 4000 miles later I was driving home around 200 miles into a 225 mile trip and it just shut off without warning. It was locked solid. The factory emailed the EPA asking them to please hurry up and approve their oil spec from 5-30 to 5-40 as they are getting hammered with warranty claims. A small change in viscosity was their fix for design flaws, or at least to hold them off until the warranty ran out. The only unusual thing was that it had 4K on the oil and on the way home the display said "change oil soon". I checked it and it was full and looked fine, so I figured I'd get it done when I got home. I never did. The manual states that message means "within 500 miles" so I wasn't neglectful. I suspect something else went wrong though that affected the oil, either the bearings were going and it sensed metal in the oil, or an injector was hanging and diluted it. The oil looked normal when I checked it, no water or fuel odor, but diesel oil looks nasty as soon as you put it in so no telling. These also have a problem with soot build up that can clog the oil pickup tube and tight bearing passages, so a stuck injector could have caused coking. Some go 300,000 miles, some broke before the first oil change. My new crate motor is now 2.5 years old and has 25K miles on it and is using a quart of oil per 500 miles and the dealer can't figure out why without tearing it down. That cost more than its worth. Someone I know who recently retired from Chrysler engineering told me these have design flaws and were not intended to work with US fuel and emissions as they came. They have a poor harmonic balancer, narrow bearings and tight tolerances that collect soot and starve the bearings. He said they rushed it to market because Fiat needed to boost their VM Motori division, and that they were looting Chrysler to boost corporate profits. He warned me the front seal would leak again and it would likely blow at some point and he was right. It stinks as it is a nice engine as far as fuel economy, performance, smoothness and power delivery are concerned. They just used too much plastic and didn't bother to redesign it to be more reliable for these applications. The 19 and up revision took EGR from post DPF to reduce soot load and beefed up some of the internals to prevent failures. MBAs looking at short term profits over long term customer loyalty and ethics will kill industry.

square hole drivers side might have been for aux fuel tank. Those could come with em.

They only give you a pressure gauge and temp to worry people into upgrades. Good plan with sticking with stock, no worries about the video.

What's that software you're using? I think that's what I need.

you want to sell the truck?

Not resovled not helpful 😢

Thanks for the vid, but remember to also replace the oil pan plug crush gasket everytime the oil is changed, and torque it as recommended as any professional diy'r would.

Thank you for sharing this video! I am the 2nd owner of a 1977 F150 Custom 4x4. I bought it for my son 4 years ago for his first vehicle. We live in Florida and it doesn’t have A/C so he drove it to school and work for about 6 months. I got a call from him one night when he was coming home from work saying he thinks the driveshaft came off. Of course my heart dropped to my stomach until he told me that it was the pumpkin side of the driveshaft that came loose. I ended up locking in the hubs to get it back to my garage. So my wife gave him her 2012 Challenger to drive while we started working on the drivetrain. That happened in 2019. He’s still driving the challenger the trucks in the same exact spot.! Anyways, thought I’d share that story with you .

I have a 2016 Ecodiesel also but it is not push button start. Didn't know they made them on the Ecodiesel that year

the challenge now is buying this.. its out of stock everywhere

The trailer wheels look surprisingly good on it.

Thanks for posting this. Very helpful for a new eco diesel owner

Buy better fuel. Keep the tank closed. Buy an Indian. 😉

Yes, I never thrust dealers ships they lie through their teeth to sell anything

Enjoyed your video come back and visit us again. One doesn't have to ride fast on the twisties to enjoy the ride. If you do, you just might miss the great scenery.

They tell you that after you call on them to do service maintenance or worse service repairs and talk down to you and should have brought your harley to them before you breakdown.

Then why do they have you change it on a 50k service?

I use seafoam in every oilchange and i use the other stuff crc intake cleaner once a year and i have no buildup on my intake valves ive been doing this since i bought it new in 2016 with 16 miles on it the crc really works good

I might have missed it but can you give me the Harley kit number? I really like the sound of you bike. Sounds strong.

technically this is not needed if you have the updated port and direct injected engines.

Can you tell me about how much that SE Comp. kit costs? I need the upgrade as I have an original making noise on my '07 Ultra Classic with just under 40k on it.

That chain tensioner is another reason the old compensator is faulty.

loctite???

I was lovingly "urged" to sell my 78 macho series power wagon, and I've regretted that decision for 13 years so far. Most enjoyable truck I ever owned and drove - it just fit right. I look for a replacement occasionally. The regret cycle repeats as the prices go up (and availability goes down). Thanks for sharing your truck. I enjoyed your video.

What is the shift lever on the right side for? I saw you still had heel - toe shifter and clutch lever as well. Good video!

Cool truck, I think it's older than 75 though as the Grille and dash (well.. what's left of it...) are pre 74.. Then again, who knows right? It also has a manual with an auto column so...

Might have been easier to put the bolts in the tensioner to hold the spacers in place

😮 sounds funny. Give gas the pipe sound don't like it, louder so I really hear Harley engine 😁. Tica tica tica tica tica 🤔🙈💪

Did you figure out the noise issue? Was it pushrod adjustment not on base circle

When you had your timing marks lined up for top dead center then the rear cam is on base circle isn't it? You adjusted your pushrods on overlap probably.