@@RHMCMLXII that’s never good, you sure it was coolant?

I have done a motor swap just not on this truck, at least not yet. I do have a 6bt just hanging out in my garage waiting to get put into something.

@@EightsGarage Put it into your dodge

That is the plan but time and money always get in the way of good plans.

I believe 2.5” but I could be wrong (it was a while ago), I probably said it in the original cheap lift video when I first installed them.

There’s a lot of things that can cause it to feel sluggish, does the engine sound right? I’d probably check to make sure it’s getting enough air first. How about the gas is it old gas maybe? Then maybe check belt/clutch.

@@EightsGarage well the code and the sluggishness started after I took it through a deep mud hole .

@@dannyhatfield7259 so when u rev the engine while it’s in neutral does it sound right? Or does it sound like the engine isn’t quite right?

@@EightsGarage is sounds normal and it idles fine. Think maybe it has water in the oil?

@@dannyhatfield7259 if you flooded it you probably should check the oil yea, but if the engine is running fine that shouldn’t be an issue, check diffs for water or maybe you belt/clutch? But again this is all guesswork without seeing the atv

Glad I could help!

They do line up just make sure you get them off of a regular dually not a cc truck, the cc truck rear is narrower.

I expected it to be worse than it was. I would forget about it most of the time. But then again I didn’t have it for too long before I replaced the whole axle with a Dana 60.

Maybe get a wider tube that can fit over it and clamp it down real well, but it may be difficult to get a good waterproof seal on it.

I did put a new one on there, I just didn’t get it on video, it’s hard to film everything.

I will keep that in mind next time I seal it.

No, I kept the old oil filter until it was the final one.

Okay thanks 👍

As long as you get the one that fits the axle you have.

I mean as long as you’re carful not to mess up the cover what’s the problem?

When I release it slams down, when it’s not released it slowly goes down by itself. I actually barely use this jack anymore because of these issues. I’m a harbor freight Daytona jack man now lol

@@EightsGarage Does the Daytona jack go down slowly? I know HF had a jack recall - but you probably know about that...

@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 yes it does go down very slowly, unless you open it all the way, it’s very controlable. I believe the jack stands (3 and 6 ton, I actually have the 12 ton ones) had a recall not the jacks themselves. Either way I don’t trust any tool too much, harbor freight even less lol

@@EightsGarage I watched a Big Red vid showing they lowered the jack using the lower bolt instead of the main pipe hole lift - I don't remember that in the instructions!! So hopefully I can do that to get the jack to stop slamming down and bending the chassis box frame. Daytona Recent 1 star reviews on HF: Followed instructions and it shot hydraulic fluid all over The instructions state when first using it to open the cover, remove the fill plug, then turn handle counterclockwise to open the valve. After that it says pump 10-15 times quickly to remove any air. I did it like twice and here are the results. There is now hydraulic fluid all over my garage floor. I'm certainly not going to trust this thing when it failed to do step 1 before I just it lifting my cars. May 5, 2024 Followed instructions and it shot hydraulic fluid all over 193447 Stopped working Had it for maybe 2 weeks I pump it up and it goes up until it touches the car then it won’t go up won’t lift car something is wrong with the hydraulic in it or something I really hope they will replace it for me because it’s definitely faulty Only used it 3 times Only used 3 times and on the 3rd time I notice 1 piston didn't work but my 90days were expired to return it I didn't use it often"

@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 interesting I never used the bolt to lower on that jack, maybe that helps you out. I’ve had my 4 ton Daytona a while now and I’ve had none of those issues.

Hey thank you! This was a while ago but if I remember correctly the length on the ford axles is just barely shorter but they do fit. You would just need to get a seal. But I want to say that was from the 99+ fords idk about the older gens. I was initially going to do this but I couldn’t find any in good conditions so I ended up getting the ones I did.

Is the compressor on your air suspension working? Like when u set it to a different number does it go up?

Nope we did not, this atv gets submerged like this a lot though, so we’d be replacing seals all the time.

This was a while ago so my memory isn’t great but there’s a few you can get that didn’t have the cad. You just have to make sure they are the right length.

Glad to help!

It did not affect my headlights as far as I could tell.

Hopefully it was just coffee lol

Nice!

Do you mean the spacers inside diameter or the actual hub? If it’s the spacers idk I sold those spacers ages ago but of the actual hub I can just go measure it if you need it.

@@EightsGarage I’ve sorted it out. I’m looking to put these adaptors onto my first GEN Dodge will need a bit of machining. I picked up a set yesterday from my friend doing a build on my channel big truck.

@@FirstGendodgegarage nice good stuff, I love first gens.

I thought so too but it lasted until I swapped that axle out much to my surprise lol

I used the 3500 coils, I ended up keeping the 1500 leaf springs in the back though because I didn’t get the leaf spring perch from the 3500 (I didn’t know the 3500 had wider leaf springs).

@EightsGarage I have a whole parts truck with 12" lift and 1 ton axles was just wondering how hard the swap would be, you cleared up my questions

@@khrisshultz2532 nice glad I could be of help. Most things swap in pretty much bolt on.

It’s a bit tricky you have to keep spinning it and spinning what it goes into until the splines aline. This was a while ago so I don’t remember if the spline had a flat spot to line up, check for that I know some do.

I completely agree, not that it takes much to convince me to buy more tools lol

The length shouldn’t be too far off but that depends what you removed from there and what you had before, but the ujoint will be different.

Sounds like yours is stronger than it was from factory now, great job!

@EightsGarage 1 thing I learned is that those instant glue adhesives that dry in minutes doe turn rock hard but don't always have good adhesion qualities . You are better off going with adhesives that dry over a few days .

@@Ralphie5023 makes sense

Glad to be of help!

I guess it depends how mechanically inclined you are and the price of the truck.

@@EightsGarage thanks for the input

Sorry i was so vague, buts it’s kind of a tough question without more context.

It depends if your going with a retail one or your making it yourself. If your going with a store bought one you should be pretty good following the instructions. If it’s custom just make sure the snorkels don’t have too much movement up top or they will wiggle out of the connections somewhere lower. I’d even zip tire the snorkels together so they don’t move around as much. But that also really depends how tall your going with them.

I did get splatter all over the place but as long as you don’t get it on the moving parts it should be ok. You still do need gear oil since the pinion and ring gear are still going to spin, it’s just the spider gears and side gears you are welding together, everything else still moves like normal in there. Same as oil, you would still need the gasket.

Yup you would either lengthened or shorten both control arms that would push the axle forward or move it back. Since the top of the shock/coil is in a fixed spot moving the axle forward or back adjusts the caster.

In this gen pretty much yea. I put in the 3500 axles into this half ton.

@@EightsGarage got a 01 1500 4wd sport O-R edition and hopfully running the ball joint deletes, yukon free spin hubs and 3rd gen steering fixes the 2nd gen ball joint, and other joint yeeter every few thousand mules

Sounds like you will have a hell of a rig, nice.

I believe it brought everything I installed, I don’t remember buying anything separate.

Well there is a little more than just that, you need to remove a bearing and replace a seal if I remember right. Also you have to drill out a new spot for the breather as the old breather was on the cad housing.

@@EightsGarage but there are no retainers holding the splined end inside the differential? No clips of any kind?

From what I remember no this specific axle did not have c-clips or anything like that

@@EightsGarage awesome. That's what I was hoping.

That should be fun

Glad you like the video! Mines been working out great, I ripped off the hose once but that was more on me than the position. Where did the shop put it?

@@EightsGarage same side of the diff but about 6 inches back, I installed a catch can hoping it would help but unfortunately it still leaks. Will be moving it to the location you used ASAP!

@@c.t.9451 hope that fixes your leak!

Sorry only so much free music to choose from.

Definitely harder than a regular bolt, I do not want to ever have to do that again lol

According to the manual it’s 14 oz, but I really don’t remember how much I put in.

Glad it was helpful!

I want to say it was .125

Me parece que era 2.25 quartos