That's a lot of grinding! You still need to grind, but this reduces time. Dave

We're close to sea level. Just add a few minutes for high elevation- Have fun and enjoy!

These blades only have 1 cutting edge- "can't be flipped around" No jackstand- A bolt is inserted in the side holes, preventing the unit to drop... Dave

Thanks Richard! I get faster each time I have to sharpen the buggers! Dave

Thanks! Dave

I think because the actual angle is not very narrow ? so it's not sharp like a knife with a very tapered blade, it's a-bit-less-than-flat but with a well-defined edge. That would make the resulting edge a lot stronger than a fine taper, and given what flail mowers go through, strength is very important !

Hi- With some basic fabrication skills, I bet any little quad can be set up to pull a littles trailer- Dave

Having owned dozens of modified dirt bikes and quads, the minor change from a #38 to 40 is a small change, not worthy of any other mods. The #38 jet was clean. The#40 made all the difference in the world. Unfortunately, to meet emmisions, the factory had to set up the quad super lean.

Thank You! Just posted a qued carb rejet....

Thanks for the visit

I'd make one for you if you lived near by..(Ca.) No one you know can fab one up for you?? You could cut the pieces, drill and use fasteners to assemble.. Thanks you the interest! Our youngsters love being part of the farm work pulling things around!- Dave

No- I would use something like a "Drag King" or an "arena drag" to dress the field. Dave

Good question! The vents will be cut in the subfloor frame rim board. See the subfloor frame video- kzfaq.info/get/bejne/at59hsihldvNgqc.html Dave

I couldn't find any rap that went with an oil change.... Dave

Let us know how it turns out! Dave

Excuse the late reply. Good question! The high temp, 1300 degrees f., basically vaporizes the wax and must be done in a ventilated setting, as in a open shop.

3/16", 4.7mm

A L35, 2001 model, (33 hp), 27hp at the PTO

Thank you

Glad you found it helpful! Dave

That's a tough one if there's no other toilet! There are faster acting solutions/chemicals that are used, but their use is generally frowned upon... Dave

Yes, but with pipe of the same diameter, templates and be commonly bought for smaller diameter pipe, if so desired... The above process is excellent for pipe coneections of different sizes! Dave

Thanks, I learnt it years ago while I was an apprentice and have forgotten how to do it for 90 degree joins. So if both pipes are 150 diameter it’s the same menthod as you’ve shown, do I still use the ID or the OD measurement

A... 150 diameter?@@callumtonks5

@@daveosland3199 150mm diameter for example

I use the I.D.@@callumtonks5

Yep, an easy fix , if the sediment is an issue... Dave

Sorry for the late reply- As soon as the footing is poured to the bottom of the formed stem wall, you can generally go back to the starting point of the pour and top off the stem, as the concrete has had several minutes to stiffen up enough to support the wet mud in the stem forms. Dave

Used it 2 seasons now- still going strong. Use a hydralic cylinder on the 3 point hitch for nearly all the implements run back there. I installed the PTO backwards originally and haven't bothered changing it- actually is easy to get to the zerks for lubing... I was dissapointed in the Y blades, dulled quickly and more time consuming to sharpen, as required unbolting, sharpening and reinstalling. The hammer blades kick butt! Thanks! Dave

Sounds like the slab was poured after the stemwall and probably lacked the rebar to tie the 2 together... However you seal/bond the slab and stemwall together now, you may have to use a power washer or something like that to clean the surfaces for bonding. I like the 2 part epoxy in tubes (like Simpson) for bonding in situations like that. Sikaflex will seal, but won't bond the 2 together and keep them from moving as they've done. Let us know what you do and how it worked! Dave

@@daveosland3199 I need to do the entire perimeter of the house, which currently is 1400sf and basically a 25ft x 60ft rectangle, I assumed that filling the crack with self leveling cement will be cheaper than epoxy but after thinking about it further, I think epoxy or a polyurethane caulk would be adequate. The house was built in 1977 so I don’t think it will move or settle any more than it has. It has one minor slab crack about 1/3 the length of the house, across the 25ft length with no major unleveling on either side. I mainly want to seal the crack to prevent bug infestations as we have roaches here. So after sealing, I’m also using spray foam at the base of the walls as all drywall is set about 1/2” off the floor. The house is also in Albuquerque NM and is situated almost exactly east to west and we can get up to 105F in August and sometimes in the teens in winter so thermal expansion from one side to the other needs to be considered as the 60ft long north side of the house will always be cooler than the south side. So for example in winter, the north side could be 30F, while the sun heats the south side to 60F or higher. Maybe that’s why it’s not all tied together…to allow for some planned expansion and contraction.

The polyurethane caulk might be a good choice. Here in california, I'm always thinking about earthquakes and movement..

@@oldowl4290 It’s not the building in itself that gives value to the house, it is the LOCATION !!! 😊😊😊

@@anonymousbyproxy8250 I think it has to be a bit of both but yes, a good location is always a huge factor.