Fantastic video! Thanks so much for making this content. These types of videos are keeping knowledge alive and documented for future generations.

Understanding that it's highly dependent on soil conditions (rocks in particular), the 35-60 minutes per post was really helpful information.

FIAT

Where is the oil dip stick ?

hi, I have the 5040 and wondering if you have video on power steering fluid chnge? thanks Frank C

Does this house experience a range of hot and cold climates? I heard about the siding leaving permanent gaps after an extreme weather change so I wonder if you have experienced the same?

How do you know how deep to make the holes?

if you ever find an older tractor that has been serviced like this every spring.. buy it if you dont buy it tell someone else where it is so they can buy it

That piece for the steering is a tie rod.

curious how much the boards shrunk/warped in the last 2 years without being kiln-dried? Looks great on the install.

Like i see u can fill the hydrolic oil in the bigger hole under the seat. The tractor is like universal 445 so I am sure there is a bigger cap and hole for oil.

Fantastic work. What is the product used and the price

Next time you change your oil if you have the room weld a nut to the plug inside or outside whatever works for you and see if you can turn it out. After the heat from welding the nut on the plug the heat will probably help. Your 5050 looks to be in good shape. My 5050 is a 4X4 and has a loader on it, this loader changes everything when working on. it what a pain in the butt having to work around it. I can't change my hyd filter as easy as you can.

Wow...seems the long beams are over-engineered. I used 2" x 10" treated boards. It will be heck for stout

Great video! We have an A-C 5050 and appreciate the work you put into making this video. Thank you.

I know I’m two years late - but the sickle bar slides out of the haybine on the side of the wobble box , ie pull the knife head where the busing is , not the way you did it

You could unplug the pepcock with compressed air or run a small wire through it 😄

Looks very nice Ginger Acres, thx 4 the video.

Excellent video! I have a 5050 4wd that was my father in laws. It was used and abused with things being fixed only when absolutely necessary. So I have had a lot to fix. I am debating about using the 15w-40 or Universal Tractor Fluid. Everyone seems to be saying to use it instead of 15W-40 but I don't know that I am comfortable with the Universal Tractor Fluid as it appears to be a 10W-30. I am guessing you have had not ill effects from sticking with modern engine oils in 15w-40? People seem to think that modern 15w-40 has more additives for engines that are not good for tractor transmissions but I am not sure at all!

That was fun haven't been on a hay bailing ride-along for years thanks.

Cool video, thanks for the demo. What product did you used for the fascia and soffit?

Nice looking old antique machine. New holland square balers came along ways how they used to be. It's nice to see them old balers still going at it sure maybe not to bale as much it once seen, but it's still I a good machine to get the job done if needed. Nowadays holland square balers for the last 30 some years are built with a wider head and wider sweep to slide hay into the baler chamber where it it's cut and pack into a bale. We have a 316 NH super sweeper we noticed that nowadays your windows must be really thick, or you must go faster speed in order a decent square bale that's not cricket. Other than that good video. .

Your house looks great, nice job!

Grab a lever action pump that fits on a 5 gallon bucket for filling that trans... Thank me later ;)

I see some broken teeth or a broken arm in your future if you keep starting it like that. Two acceptable ways to start are pulling up from bottom to top (not all the way around) facing the front of the tractor - be sure to keep your thumb NOT on the handle. Second way is to pull down from the left side of the tractor, using only fingers. The way you're doing it, a kick back could send that crank into your face or arm- super dangerous! Please be careful, no one wants to see anybody hurt using these wonderful machines. Re: choke, others commented - there's a choke on the carb. My formula for starting mine from cold is choke on, 2 half turns on crank, choke off, starts on 3rd pull. Great looking tractor, great job on the rest of the video!! Sounds like it runs fine to me!

what we have done for years is chain 2 oppisite corners and we nail a piece of 2x6 against the stake to keep it from moving and we never use screws cause when that wagon twists and flexs it will break the screws. tried to tell that to our neighbor he built 4 wagons that way now he has to renail boards

My Dad had a 1939 Allis Chalmers B. It was hand cranked only. We had the school ag shop build a hand lifted snow plow, made from the side of an oil tank and a counterbalance was a front tractor weight laid on its side.

Just bought series B Allis-Chalmers. Did not come with manual and seller shared little. Not original owner. How can I tell its year. Tractor number 116628. Any help would be appreciated!!!

Nice tractor! I have a 1951 B, so it has lights and electric start and a PTO with hydraulics- but a mag, no distributor. They are nice little tractors. Mine just mows the grass and tools around.

They still make these tractors in pakistan lol

I still mow with a 49 b...that has a woods belly mower.i. it's never been overhauled. I do like the 6 volt electric start..

YOU SAID THE ENGINE HAS BEEN REBUILT.. BUT THE WAY IT SOUNDED, AND FROM WHAT YOU SAID, IT ALMOST SOUNDS LIKE A ROD KNOCK... JUST FOR A LITTLE ADVICE, CHECK THE CRANKSHAFT SIDE OF THE PISTON RODS, I THINK ONE, (OR MORE) COULD BE LOOSE OR OUT OF TORQUE... I HEARD THAT NOISE MORE THAN ONCE, AND I HAVE A HEARING LOSS OF 75%+...AND I HEARD IT....

Why did you skip the wobbe box?

Larger, easier to get to trans fill plug if you take the seat off; think it’s only 4 bolts

PB blaster man

You’re not supposed to replace the guards with the cutter bar installed. The tip of the end guards are supposed to go in the end of that tube so the grass is guided to the cutter bar.

So... when I built my hay rack, I bought my oak from a local lumber mill. Come to find out, they use to build hay racks for running gears. First thing they told me was not to use screws, they have a tendancy to break rather then bend like shank nails. They also told me not to bolt all 4 corners rigid because when the hay rack starts to twist and bend, something is going to break. Imagine 5,000 pounds of hay on and the slightest bump will literally make this thing twist. Rather to pick any 2 corners, bolt them rigid, then loosely chain the 2 that are left. The chains keeps the hay rack from hoping off the running gear, going through divits, ditchs, bumps, gullys etc.. They also explained that on top of the main beams, to run 4x4 like you have your deck boards about 3 feet apart, then run deck boards length wise on top of 4x4's. This is far less likely the chance of warping over time. Now on mine, I did no such thing as using green pressure treated, I was told not to bother because its pine and over time will warp because of the span. To treat, I used old used motor oil all over everything while it was hot out. I did this 3x to let it soak in, this past spring I did it again and probably once more over summer. Yes, it does dry and will not rub off on you. It actually beads up the water. Just some tips if you decide to make another. I like the build, my tips were past on to me from a company that use to make them, so im passing them on to you, do with it as you wish. Like I said, I like the build. Good job.

When you said as long as you want to learn, thats exactly what this takes. You can almost visually look at it and see what its suppose too do and how it works. Do also realize, let the implement dealers be your friends and answer any questions you have. You can go into those places and talk to the techs and mechanics to get deeper info on stuff you dont understand. If they dont let you out in the shop to talk to them, move on to a better place. Yes, the techs are allowed to talk and yes you can go out on the floor to talk to them. A lot of people do not know this. Good job by the way.

Special rivet tool is a HAMMER!!!!!

Nice looking home. I've never put up siding so thanks for the explanation. Do you have to bow the siding out to get it to fit in the left and right vertical trim pieces? Looking forward to the move in dats.

Not sure if you figured it out yet but on the side of the carburator there should be a small lever there. You flip that down for choke on. Then at least with my tractor. You do 2 cranks with choke on and then 1-2 off and fires right up (most of the time) And that brings my second thing. What I reccomonded doing is standing on the right side of the tractor and put your knee against the tire. Then you reach over for the crank and pull it about half way up. Then a short yet firm pull (if everything is set up right you shouldn't have to pull hard either) and make sure that you tuck your thumb in and when holding the handle. You want you get to be tight but loose enough that in case it dose kick back, it just rolls out of your hand. And for the choke pulls. You don't need to crank hard. Just to slow pulls and 1-2 medium pulls. There's a good video out there of a guy showing how if you look up how to crank start Allis Chalmers B. I also have an older video on my channel as well. Hope this helps! -Brady

The choke is on the side of the carb

Do a video changing the oil in the rear end.

Great job new to your channel. I have the LT 15 love my little Mill .

Looks like you don't hook the chain on the log clamp for the last board - is that because the chain hits the sawhead / blade guide?

How do you like that ReadySeal as far as the Natural color? I have a pressure treated privacy fence and wanted something slightly more than Transparent Thompsons Water Seal? You feel it's pretty subtle in color? Yellowish? Assuming your 6x6 or 8x8 porch posts are pressure treated pine and not cedar?

Good video. It is very easy to replace old riveted sickle sections. All you need is a hammer and something hard to beat against. To remove the old sickle section just turn the bar on its side and hit the top of the section and it will fall right off. You just put a rivet in then beat it with a hammer against an anvil or hard rock until it is peened. There is no special tool needed. After you do it a couple times you can replace a riveted section much faster than a bolted section.

Very nice looking home. I really like the porch. Keep them coming.

This is a FIAT 500 series tractor , 8035 engine code 2800 cc 50 hp

Very nice build. I especially like the porch. You will have many peaceful times sitting out there and enjoying the scenery.