I think the bigger risk with a bowline is for people who do not know how to tie one and tie it wrong. I tried just now to tie one very lose and made it collapse. It slipped but slipped toward the shackle just making it tighter against the shackle. It did not slip toward the tail. I was unable to make it slip as you are describing. Rock climbers don't necessarily know how to tie a bowling so a figure of eight is safer. If you are climbing a sailboat mast, you are very likely to know how to tie a bowline. I started mast climbing using a figure of eight but it is just so hard to untie. But if you are uncomfortable with a bowline, use a figure of eight.

Always better to splice than use a knot in Dyneema if you can. These are great when a splice won't work or when you need to do something quickly. Not sure what you are trying to do so I can't really make a meaningful comment.

I am pleased you find it helpful. Thank you.

I have met a few others who use it but not many.

I am glad you like it.

Thank you.

Thanks, you should sticky this post to the top!

@@mikenichols619 Done. Thanks, great idea.

I appreciate the comment.

I like this one much better. Check it out: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qttgdsaota7LhWQ.htmlsi=lfpw_MgmAP33E77C Allen

@@L-36 thanks

@@CM-ef2fl Personally, I would just climb up and climb down using some form of dual ascenders. I have also used a jib halyard to climb and the main halyard as my safety or visa versa. Just swing the safety around the spreader. Then climb up and reverse the procedure to climb down.

Well, I use a modified old ATN chair I had left over when the ATN system almost killed me and I started this quest for a better and safer way to get up my mast. Imagine my surprise when I was way up on my mast and noticed the shackle had worked itself lose and I was just being held up by luck. I did look for a commercial chair that I could recommend. The Black Diamond was completely unacceptable and is not even rated as life supporting. I made a video on it you can look at. I then bought a Crewlift 40 bosun chair and I like it a lot. However, I have not gotten around to trying it mostly because it is bigger than the one I am using and won't fit in the bag I use to store it. It seems like a much better chair and can go closer to the top because of the way it clips on. Here is an affiliate link to an Amazon page. I get a small commission if you click the link and buy anything. www.amazon.com/Crewsaver-Boating-Sailing-Crewlift-Bosuns/dp/B00UNALRUO/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1QSQ7SG4HKOOZ&keywords=bosun+chair&qid=1702997546&sprefix=bosun+chair%252Caps%252C141&sr=8-8&ufe=app_do%253Aamzn1.fos.d977788f-1483-4f76-90a3-786e4cdc8f10&_encoding=UTF8&tag=l36com-20&linkCode=ur2&linkId=43797345f0b8c6b3fcfb2b686f8099d2&camp=1789&creative=9325

Maybe watch it again...

Thank you.

@@L-36 I do some moonlighting tree service work one of the most vital knots to learn

@@fullsenderman8291 I have seen tree workers tie bowlines with impressive speed.

@L-36 yes sir

It probably uses less line that a splice. I would recommend a splice over this but if you need a knot that won't slip, here it is.

The GriGri method is pretty easy but has a few issues. The main thing I don't like is all the re-rigging at the top. Half the time I could go to the top and find that I had rigged it wrong at the bottom which made it difficult to get it re-rigged correctly. You also have to re-rig if you want to get all the way to the top of the mast. Without re-rigging it can be downright terrifying going down. All the re-rigging makes it much more complicated. I used it for a couple of years but quit. This method is pretty easy if you leave the gear partially rigged when it is put away.

@@L-36 can I ask also….why run a separate line up connected to the halyard….why not just use the halyard itself? One less knot to worry about

@@UpstateDS I started using climbing line for the GriGri. It is very picky about the line. Also, my halyards are Amsteel so I need to either use some yacht braid or climbing line. Climbing line also has some give in case something does go wrong. The cover is much stronger on climbing line. I once stripped the cover off a line in a rope clutch. It is just another layer of safety. You just need to know how to tie a bowline and I think every sailor does.

@@L-36 that's what I thought was the reason. Thanks for the info!

It has been too long since I did all the testing on these knots but I am pretty sure we tested that and it slipped. Have you tested it? A lot of good knots just slip out at like 20% of line strength. That isn't nothing as this line is very strong but you really need to be careful using knots that have not been proven not to slip with Dyneema.

Thank you for your comment. As an experienced rock climber you would have the knowledge of the equipment required to make this a reasonable system to use. Best of luck. I just added the link to the article in the description and below. L-36.com/more_mast_climbing.php.

Before using the Sterling Prussik loop I just used a home made loop using a 7mm line from out local climbing store (REI). They even tied it for me. You can see how here www.animatedknots.com/prusik-knot. I would not use Dyneema but it might be fine. The problem is the stuff melts at a low temperature and if it get to that temperature it fails catastrophically and instantly. You would get no warning.

Looks like the main is over trimmed as well. But the take down went well 🙂

The idea of leaving a little line sticking out the diamond knot is so that if the knot tightens at all and tries to pull the ends in, there are ends there and the knot won't fail.

I can't say I understand your questions fully. I can't imagine how the line to the pully would interact with the handle unless you strung it wrong. The handle goes off to the left and the pully is on the right. The GriGri should stay in the closed position all the way up. But that said, this method is just too complicated and too easy to string something wrong which mostly you don't find out until you are at the top. I no longer like it and don't use it. I use the one I call the Ultimate Mast Climbing method linked in the comments. Just click "More" above or go to L-36.com and look under articles. Here is the link l-36.com/UltimateMastClimbing.php. That method is also complicated but I have not found it prone to rigging incorrectly. I keep major parts rigged in my storage bag to remind me how it all goes together and even after a couple of years I just rigged it and climbed my mast a couple of months ago without needing to read or watch anything.

Same but proper name is rolling hitch per ABOK

@@mymobile5014 If you follow my website, you know I tried many methods for unassisted mast climbing. I started with twin ascenders and the prusik for the safety line. I would go down with the ascenders which was fine for mast painting (sand going up, paint going down) but not as good now that I have an aluminum mast that does not need painting. In general, I found ascenders that have teeth, like used in mountain climbing where they need to work on wet frozen rope, to be less than ideal on a boat. I used a micro-cender but had to up the size of the spring wire and ultimately it was taken off the market as even with stiffer wire, it would tend to slip. The Ropeman 1 is ideal. It has lots of grip and no teath. The rollinlock is much easier to use than an ascender because you can just pull on the rope instead of messing with the lower ascender. And of course, I tried using a GriGri but it is just too easy to rig it wrong at the bottom which gives issues at the top and the way I re-rig it at the top generates a lot of "feedback". But I found the rerigging necessary for a safe descent. The ATC works great, is easy to rig, and always tied in so cannot hit the deck and leave me stranded. I have a figure 8 device but prefer the ATC for reasons mentioned. I also like the idea that if I let go, I stop even if the main line were to fail because the prusik will lock the ATC. Anyway, this is why I call it the ultimate but that is only within the context of what I have tried but that is a lot.

@@L-36 That was the problem with the Tibloc, the teeth were very aggressive. The teeth on my ascenders are more like ribs which jam, a bit like the jammer on a mainsheet? I prefer the figure 8 which also ties on, simply because I find them quicker and easier to set up and use than an atc. The main difference though is I climb on 3 ropes, one sling to each ascender to a rope each, both attached to the harness. The Prusik is on a 3rd rope. I love the redundancy so I can go up and do anything I like knowing that if the worst came to the worst I couldn't really have done more. Except dismast and do it on the hard haha

You have to leave the tails slack. It helps to have them weighted as in coil up the excess line but the system will not work if you tie the ends down. Perfect for checking the spreaders.

You untie these knots with a knife. If you want to make something removable in Dyneema, use some variation of a soft shackle. There are many for many applications on L-36.com. I recommend using a splice but there are times and situations when you need a knot and that is what these are for. You don't have enough details for my understanding for me to answer your question. I sometimes just use 20 half hitches around a line to secure low force applications like you might be talking about. You can untie thoes.

@@L-36 wow, that is a quick reply indeed, thank you. I will look around first, as I can't paste pictures here it is a bit difficult to describe. I might come back later. Greetings

@@SamuelLanghorn You can upload a picture to Google Photo and post a link here. Like this. photos.app.goo.gl/ZtJtBrX2AyVZPSM37

@@L-36 Hi Allen, I tried, but somehow only saw you blue dyneema loop there, I left a message. Let's switch to email.

@@SamuelLanghorn I was just demonstrating how to upload a picture. Nothing special about the one I linked. You can contact me off my website.

'Carrick'?

Sailors, rock climbers, and arborist all are very close to their ropes.

You are welcome. I am glad you enjoyed it.

You are welcome. Glad you enjoyed it.