The audible gasp I let out as you so confidently soldered kept soldering them with the wrong polarity!

Good video, thank you! I just made some rca cables. Used Mogami 2552 low noise wire and Amphenol ACPR-SRD male plugs. Was surprised how thin the signal wire was in the Mogami cable but they work just fine. Nice to do away with overly long and stiff cables from the store.

studio condenser microphones how to connect the wire in the xlr cable

EXCELLENT...!!! Very well explained. Good job. Thank you.

nice

Thanks for posting . GREAT video. I wanted to ask about the Lamp on Macro. I created a personality for a Chinese Fixture, but the lamp on Macro doesn't work. The lamp on command happens at text value 100 .I wanted to find out when I write the command, do I work out what percentage 100 is of 255 ? Thanks in advance

el bote

Great ❤

Hi, does anyone have any ideas about how to add a 'pan fine' attribute....

Hi dude, thanks for taking all the effort to make this video. BUT, looks like none of you guys noticed the 1st female xlr (abt 20.16) is wired red wire to pin 2, and the rest white wire to pin 2. Oops.

Excellent instructional video Thanks

Great video, I’ve built a lot of my own cables over the years and about to do a short multicore from my pedalboard to mixer. I was glad to see I do a lot of this right but learned some cool tips. along the way. I laughed when you said about the shell oh the feeling when you have a beautiful solid job and see the shell sitting on the table but the other side is the joyful celebration the times it happens and as the misery starts to kick in and you suddenly realise it’s the first side of the cable and you can slide it on the other end! Great video and by the way that iron station cost a fortune in the UK!

Maybe you can help me, need to import that file into my console via usb stick but i need a ".K2D" file. You have any idea how i can get this type of file?

i don`t get it, you`ve just turned a BALANCED cable into a UNBALANCED one by using a TS connector WHY ?, that may seem counter-intuitive 1st thing Balanced Cabled are more expensive, 2nd thing this Balanced cable what you`ve turned into unbalanced these cables cannot be over 20` feet otherwise they can incure RF and EMI interfeareces, so why use a TS when you could used a TRS, your just creating alot of problems ! i can understand if you were using a Unbalanced Cable and using a DI Box to convert to the right type of connector, plus i would`nt put my XLRs standing up like that for soldering because your sending alot of solder down the cups which could create problems, an 8th on the end would do, you don`t need to fill the cup up, plus a 16th off the Positive and Negative conductor jackets, some may say the "best" soldering video, i beg to differ, good practicle video though.

Thank you for confirming my NERD status! (…as if enough people haven’t already done so 😂)

Strong work.

Great Videos. Very time consuming to do but if you have no other options.

Thank you sir. From Nepal.

3:45 "Neutrik" is a company from Liechtenstein. Liechtenstein is not in a Germany.

3:52 FYI, Neutrik is not a German company. They’re based in Liechtenstein, and like so much stuff today, much of it is manufactured in China. Still top quality at a reasonable price. (Kudos for pronouncing Neutrik correctly, also!)

As someone who is mildly obsessed with making cables and has been doing so for nearly 30 years, I once made a little cable-soldering jig using a block of wood with male and female XLR connectors embedded in it to hold the end connectors being soldered. it's a lot easier to clamp down a block of wood than individual connectors. You could simply drill holes in a 2x4 but I like using panel connectors because they provide a positive hold on the connector plus they offer a tiny bit more of a heat buffer if you have a habit of overheating your solder cups.

Hi how much you heat the soldiering iron ? i like your idea very helpfull to me .

Hi! l... I'm a 'prof' doing soldering all my life and teaching electronics.I loved every second to see you working and explaining. AND learned some things as well! It was fun.

Thank you so much. That was excellent.

dont you have to split the ground to make it to the 4 connection?

HI. thanks a lot for the video. Is this method valid if I have moving heads whose instructions I have lost and would like to find the channels myself? 2) is what you do an important thing in the case of for example colors 0-6 open yellow 7-10 etc? or can do generic 0-255 color? or gobo?

”Ive been doing this for 20 years” and solders hot (red) to pin 3 on female end and to pin 2 on male end… ❤

Great tutorial

What are the economics of this? How expensive would an off-the-shelf cable of this quality be in comparison? (Great video)

The best

Please don't short the "cold" to ground if you're working with balanced cables. Balancing is good, and only happens if you leave them balanced. Combining balanced and unbalanced is tricky, and this may or may not be the right way to handle it. If you're working with an unbalanced system, these are the wrong connectors to use anyway. It's just... that's not the way to do it.

Events rental - time pressure wuhooo 😂🎉

Thank you for your video

watched through the whole video.... Very neat job...

13:34 😂😂🙏🏼👌🏼

Wow! Just sat through a full soldering video......😂👍

I know this is 8 years old, but those pockets are made so you don't actually have to prefill them. You just tin the wires, put them in the pockets, put a little flux paste or flux wax, and fill with solder. The reason why this is usually better practice too is because you don't have to use a ton of solder and wind up using just enough which keeps the connector overall more clean. Not that big of a deal on XLR connectors, but when working with LEMO connectors and smaller pockets, this helps a ton ensuring there isn't solder spilling over and connecting prongs causing cross talk as filling up the cups can easily accidentally result in that given you're always using more than you really need to (since the cups don't actually have to be completely filled for a solid joint). If you check Neutrik and other manufacturers, this is their standard of practice and why the cups are designed the way they are. So you can put the wire in, it will stay, and then you make your joints. Just like working with a standard through-hole soldering.

Great tutorial Mr. Field. Perhaps you’re a distant cousin of mine! Haha! Subbed! Cheers

Thanks!

Thanks man great video with great info thanks for sharing your knowledge

Thank you for your lovely video.

By doing 45min video you loose guys like me. Im sure its awesome, but if you just split this up into 15min videos with title-describing, you get the long watchers and short(to the point) learners. Good on you either way..peace

Clear video but in the 15 years ive been making and using XLR, I've never once seen a cable with heatshrink over all three cables (let along that much). All the top pro hire companies in the UK simply wrap the earth wire (HS or hellerman)

We were in Dubai during Ramadan 2017. It was quiet during the day but good for having a look around. But at night the joint was jumping. Must have been you mate! We were staying at Dubai Creek.

Any reason why you don´t put eveything on cable (heatshrink, end cap) before stripping? I find it more convenient, especially with the tight sleeves of the neutriks. That said, the most entertaining soldering cables video ever! Thank you!

on first and second solder the red and white is reversed lol

Really nice job and appreciate the attention to details.

Yes, I am officially a nerd. What would you expect? I've also been doing audio electronics for almost 20 years - hi-fi stuff, pro audio stuff, vintage restorations, tube amp building... and it all teaches me you never should grow complacent and have your head stuck up your ass thinking you know it all while you do not. You never do, there's always something new to learn, different points of view to consiuder, so I appreciate new insights and share my own. Neutrik is made in Liechtenstein, though they also have some of cheaper products made in China, still branded as Neutrik. They also have a lower-end brand named Rean. I once did a little comparison of 1/4" TRS plugs kzfaq.info/get/bejne/edaPqL2gmZ3UkX0.html China-made 1/4" plugs have a plastic insert and Liechtenstein-made ones have phenolic which won't melt in soldering temperatures. Breaking the cable making into simpler steps and doing it on many cables, then moving on to the next step, is also how I do it. Learned it back in my campus radio days where I did electronics maintenance, made cables especially before major gigs. It's a good opportunity to learn. Leaving the backshell... OH MY. I don't know how many times I made that mistake, especially when I was distracted! It's sometimes useful to make yourself a jig for holding the connectors rather than putting them in a vise. Crappy old sockets can be used for that. I strip the outer sheath with a knife, of course gotta be careful not to cut the shield or conductors. Yes, it's possible :D Pull test is indeed important. Just like Obi-Wan said, use the Force... but not too much or else you'll damage the cable itself. And not too soon - give some time for solder to solidify fully, or else you'll have a cold joint. And BTW, pull tests are MIGHTY important when doing AC wiring - the last thing you want is fire, and loose contact is a common cause, so always test your job and try as hard as you can to pull that wire out! Heat capacity is important, but you can always help yourself by turning the temperature up a bit on jobs that require a lot of heat. Sometimes all the way up, for e.g. ground busbars in tube amps. I never used Hakko, sometimes used Weller "Magnastat" where the tip itself controls the temperature thanks to the Curie effect and magnetic reed switch, but my favorite station for over ten years was Solomon SL-20. Who knows, maybe Hakko is better, gotta try it... waiting for that package, if it comes, I will do a review on my channel, haha! Ugly lead vocalists, oh well... How about a band where a lead vocalist is ugly but a lead guitarist is sexy as hell? :) Labels under heatshrink are good and easy to do, but labels printed on heatshrinks with a portable label printer (Dymo, Brother etc.) are even better, they look real deal pro and if you've got a capable printer, do it. Yours seems like a good pro grade stuff that could handle the job, and it's only a matter of getting a heatshrink label cartridge. BTW I like the "BS" label slapped on one of the buttons. One tech tip from me: use medical forceps to hold the shield when soldering. First it's steady, second the forceps suck away the heat that would otherwise go all the way up to the place where the shield touches the connectors, melting their insulation and making the cable dodgy. I always practice looping the conductors, keeping shield the shortest. If strain relief fails, it'll take the load and it can take much more force than the conductors. Your cable tester looks pretty advanced. I see it can show you which pin on the output corresponds to each one on the input, like the ethernet cable testers. I wonder what other functionality it has, and if it can detect leakage, cracking (intermittent open circuit) etc. I never put the heatshrink over the contacts; if I did it, it'd make visual inspection of a suspicious cable harder as you have to cut the heatshrink to look if the connections are okay. Nice and tight... I do it tighter than Ethel Granger's laces, but hand only - no pliers. As for the glue, I don't like the stuff but sometimes use it for fragile connectors like USB or 1/8" plugs. Usually a teeny tiny dab of hot glue that will melt as the heatshrink tube shrinks. I sometimes call heatgun an industrial hairdryer :)

My thumbs up 👍 and hit the bell too 👊🔔

"I missed my manicure appointment last week" lol... this is the best soldering tutorial ever... give him an Oscar!