Thanks, I haven't started yet, but now I know how to start. I'm hoping it won't be the board, I could use a money break. So I'm expecting the board. ( nothing wrong with a little reverse psychology right? )

MVP

thank you👽

How do you adjust so you don't have to turn key so far

Thank you so much. turned out to be easier than I though haha 😅

I check all the connections on the for ranger 96 to change to a universal switch ,the only Two wires that didi NOT give continuity where the Ground ,and P1 AND p2 (witch are both connected ) I still connect all the rest of cables to the ignition side of the switch, it work But it let me wonder about the function of those 3 cables, any ideas?

How do you remove the loaded tape?

Thank youu!!

The trick with the larger socket was a life-saver for me today. Thank you!

You can disconnect the pipework by blowing down air down there... More over, you could be compacting the blockage making it harder to dislodge.

Thank You!

Wasting yor time on that tecumseh buy a predator engine saves a lot of time

I do a lot of these I usually just put a new predator engine ohv engine on them direct bolt up makes a nice tiller the engines run around 100 to 140 harbor freight.

They still make troybilt tiller horses mtd owns them now I think they bought them back in 2001 still made in Ohio I look on line around 3200 dollars now I love these tillers I done tons of these caddillac of tillers.❤

What is the name of the manual that you are referencing?

I have a 2007 Ford f150 when I turn the key it seems like it keeps wanting to keep turning over can you please tell me why it's doing this thank you very much

Nice job. I have a few cedar shingles that need to be replaced. This video gets me started in the right direction.

Ty soooo much !

I learn something everyday, thank you so much! I didn't know about the single wire that is plugged in on top of the starter solenoid, I got the feeling that my problem is the safety switch. Seems to be exactly the same symptoms.

What size were the wire connectors needed for the 3 wires?

Esta bien explicado pero no se ingles

Great videos.....no fluff, just good stuff. Thanks!

Thank you found a label maker in the trash tonight didn't know how to work it 👍🏻

I sure do love my 79's 😍 Thank you for the vid, weather stripping is always a pain

I wonder of the wires are the same for my e4od in my 94

Mumford is my favorite part!

Perfect! Exactly what I needed, thank you!

Why does this happen in the first place

Where online did you get the board? Great video thanks

Thank you!

Very untypical that you can youtube a video and find exactly what your looking for!!! Todays that day tho! Thank you sir for this video!! Gonna make my life stupid easy!!! Fucking A thank you

Doesn't apply to OBS 1980s

Hi- I have an old horse tiller that is not quite this old, I still use it. I am sorry Troy Bilt went under. My brother and I drove up to the factory to pick it up, as I live in central NY and it is not that far from Troy. Those old ones are great machines, much better built than the newer ones. They used to put out the Troy Bilt Owners News that always had hints for better gardening. Nice to see you get this one going!

Just had this start to fail on my mk 7. I was surprised to see that they have integrated the flap with that forward exhaust pipe instead of having it removable like on previous models as shown in the video. The dealer cost for this part was like $3800 Canadian 🤣

I changed my Ford 2006 E350 switch. It had to be in just the right place for the tail lights to work. The new switch did not solve the problem. Could it be the old rod?

Well done video. Good lighting. Needed this for my 2012 Golf TDI. Thank you very much.

But it doesn’t get hotter. I’ve taken the gear completely off and turned the brass valve all the way to the left and it’s not even close to be as hot as my sink gets. What’s the deal?

The warn pivot arm deformation had nothing to do with how far the clutch pedal travels. But if the little plastic bushing wears out the eyelet of the push rod and the pivot pin will deform and could very easily come off and the clutch pedal will drop to the floor and will need to be pulled back up manually. You should have just removed the pivot arm after marking it's position and grind the back side of the pin and used a drift pin to punch it out and replaced it with a hardened hex headed bolt. You should have also have replaced the push rod eyelet end with a Heins joint. You also should have known that the marks as you called them are called SPLINES. You can adjust the position of the pivot arm by adjusting the alignment of those splines.

Hey A Little of a Lot, Thanks for the great video. I had an F10 code accompanied by a runaway heating element, so our family burned some food. As seems is often the case, the wires and temp sensor checked out fine with the multimeter. Because of @Karxas’ comment here, I also tried gently tapping on the relays as he referenced in his comment. I put the control panel back together and the oven seems to be working fine. I did not attempt to resolder any solder points since they looked fine to me. That little tip saved me about $160 in buying a new control panel. That said, we will continue to esteem the oven with cautious optimism. :^) Thanks for the video and thank you Karxas for the tip!

I just bought a tiller just like this for $100

There is also a bearing in the back side of the spindle that should be greased while youre that far in there.

Thank you!! I could not do this simple thing! lol

I did that and my headlights still don't work. Fuses are ok. Every other lights work but headlights and high beams. High beam flasher works. 🤢🤮

That damn bar is hellishly difficult to get off

I have a 1992 e350 a friend replaced the ignition switch now there's no spark. What could be the problem. The engine turns but no spark.

I'm getting continuity on I1-B5 but ALL the others in the START list aren't showing continuity. Is that possible or should only one pair not work? Truck accessories (lights, radio) come on when key is in ignition and turned to accessories probably cause continuity? The metal slide on switch I marked original spot and slid all the way down for START tests, and up for ACC. Truck doesn't start half the time. Battery, alternator, starter tested good. Battery post/cables good. Truck battery indicator on dash is on when key is in ignition. '98 Ranger. TIA

A Challange, my dash, radio and window die every now and then, then, come back on a few miles later. Cold start would go 50 miles before dieing then come back on 30 miles later?? Could this be the ignition Switch??

Hey man, at 2:00 I’m trying to get the rings that are around the exhaust but I can’t get them out. How exactly did you get it out? Can I use WD40 to free it up?

Thanks, bro.

ok.. i put the switch in. that was it. thank you. Mine was really tough to get to. hoping the cap stay on it. seemed to. its working.