I honestly don't know because I have no experience with them.

That sounds like a fun project! I wish you the best of luck, and good tailwinds!

Your question lets me know that you have never built an aluminum airplane wing rib. If you do some online research, you will discover that EVERY aluminum airplane wing has "flutes" along their edges. It is part of their engineered design.

@@BlackLabAdventures i have never made any thing for planes that why i ask what they are for but instead of telling me you try to belittle me i have worked with metal for nearly 40 years and was just offering some advice on forming shapes but as you know more than me i will keep my learnig to my self and leave you alone

@@edwardwright6961 Hmmmm..... I have gone back and reread my response to your original question. I see nothing within my text that "belittles" you; nor infers that. I just provided information for you to seek out for learning purposes, if you wanted to pursue it. That said, in my 38 years as a yacht carpenter, I learned valuable lessons. One in particular is, I never offer up a solution for how to do something, if I have never done the job myself.

I am SO GLAD that we have reconnected! VERY nice to hear from you! I hope all is well with you, and family!

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNSqqqdy3JqwdqM.htmlsi=kXNicgkrAW4owJvm

@@BlackLabAdventures

Molly! The last that I knew, it was "kid". Now, it is "kids"! Congratulations! Yes, I am doing fine. My wife and I live just outside of Ellsworth, ME. I have retired from the boatbuilding industry, which allows me to pursue many of the things that I couldn't while working full-time. Thank you for your message. It was very nice to hear from you!

Thank you, Len. I am very aware of "waxing" tablesaw surfaces (Planers, Jointers, Shapers, etc.). Last year, I retired after 38 years of being a yacht carpenter. I have been around this equipment for more than half of my life. Thin kerf blades have their place. So do "regular" blades. A thin kerf blade is something that I wouldn't want to be using while ripping "two by" material from my local lumber yard (They store their dimensional lumber outside....). This saw will never be used for doing cabinet style work. That kind of accuracy will be saved for the Delta Unisaw, which I decided to keep. The Craftsman saw will only be used for "rough" work.

It has worked very well for us. I can dismantle it in five minutes. Likewise amount of time for putting it back together. Good luck!

I changed nothing on the back of the camera. I only modified the wooden, sheet film, holders. As for "registration", with any film back modifications that I have done on my cameras, I have never had a problem. All of that stuff is worked out for you already. Think about it: If I were shooting my large format camera, and using standard 4x5 film holders, and wanted to use my medium format roll film adaptor for the same camera, I don't need to do anything. It just works because manufacturers of roll backs and film holders have done all of that measuring for me. Case in point: Watch how I did a similar thing to the back of my Harman Titan 4x5 pinhole camera: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mNCZndmlvZOchYU.html

Oh ya. I thought heard you say in video you removed the rotating back but then I awe it as you need it fit the graflok mount. I don't have any holders to spare but I have the Grafmatic 23 holder that fits & Mamiya had their double cut holder of I need just 2 for a test. Cool deal. (:

Looks like the form block had proper radiuses all around. This is the classic method for cold forming wing ribs. So I agree, no stress risers there. Well done.

Can you be more specific? Are you thinking that there is a wiring diagram of some sort that could help? I took the time to look at what photos I have on hand, along with video. I don't remember seeing a wiring diagram, and it doesn't appear in the images/video that I have. I can tell you what I did to get specific information about my welder. I went to Lincoln's website, and under the "Resources" tab, I navigated to the "Support Center". Once on that page, I "clicked" on the "Search Operator's Manuals" in the "Certificates, Documents & Downloads" icon. When that page opened up, I entered the Code Number off of the ID Plate on the front of my welder. (My welder's Code Number is: 9041). Finally, you end up on a page where you can download a PDF file of the Owner's Manual for your welder. After I did that, I contacted Lincoln with the Serial Number, Code Number, and Model Number of my welder. They got right back to me confirming how my welder was wired. What I describe above is the path I would recommend taking.

1) Yes, I did use the existing holes through the metal case of the welder. 2) It rolls very smoothly and is very stable on the "dolly" that I fabricated for it.

I sold the project back in 2015. (Medical reasons.). I have no idea which hard drive my Sonex photos are on, (I am a photographer with bunches of hard drives...). That said, the male portion had a base made out of 1/4" aluminum. It's diameter was the size of what the lightening hole was specified to be. And, there was the proper angle / flare ground around it's circumference. Scrap wood was screwed to the "top" of the aluminum. The female part of the die was made out of scrap material as well. It was a "cup" that slid over the top of the male portion of the die. That is about all that I remember! If I do find photos, I will forward them to you.

I found some photos on my old Photobucket account. How do I send them to you?

@@BlackLabAdventures i’m trying to work out on the bottom former which sits on the steel beam, is that a routed edge of wood with an aluminum ring around it for support or if it’s a piece of steel which has been turned on a lathe

@@superflyguy1973 let me know if this link works for you. photobucket.com/u/BlackLabAdventures/a/77eacce1-15d7-4afb-b90c-6c44703bdc40

@@superflyguy1973 No lathe was involved. I did not own one at the time.

I don't see why you couldn't still CnC them out? Make a full-sized template of each rib, (Out of inexpensive 1/8" plywood.), then scan it into your system. Where I used to work (I am now retired.), we had two large CnC machines (I did not operate them.). There was also a scanning station as well. An operator could take a plywood pattern, trace around it with a digitizing "pen", and the object was scanned into the CnC's computer system. Whether you make a pattern for a router, like I did, or make a pattern for scanning into a CnC, a pattern needs to be made.

Any carbide tipped bit will cut aluminum. I have even cut 1/4" thick aluminum on a tablesaw; using a carbide tipped saw blade. I used a carbide tipped, double fluted, straight bit. What I can't remember is, if it was a 1/4" shank, or 1/2" shank. My guess is (Without watching the video.), it was a 1/2" diameter shank.

@@BlackLabAdventures I’m building a Thatcher CX7 and just trying to figure how everyone is making their ribs

@@tazinator0418 I know what I shared in my video was an eye opener to many. At the time that I did this, the only videos out there were of people hand-cutting their ribs out with shears, then filing them back to a drawn line. "I don't have time to mess around with that!", I said to myself! Use a router like I did.

I still have all of the "bits and pieces" to the original B43 (16hp) engine that came out of the tractor. My plan is to rebuild it and store it away for a "rainy day". If something ever happens (Highly unlikely!) to the new B48 engine, I will have one ready to go. It will be a very easy and quick swap! Congratulations on your machine! It sounds great!

Yes, there will be a snow removal clip! Thank you!

Thank you!

.025 - 6061 T-6 Aluminum

Corian. It's a material that folks manufacturer countertops and tabletops out of.

@@BlackLabAdventures Thank you

@@garyplewa9277, You are welcome!

No, just the alcove area where the bulkhead stairs are located. By adding a door, within the frigid climate that I live in, the bulkhead area has been known to "snap off" of the rest of the foundation. The main foundation is fine and at no risk.

If you are just developing your film, you do not need a darkroom. What you need is what is called a "dark bag", or "film changing bag". Inside of this sort of "pillow case", light-proof bag, you transfer your film roll to a film reel, that is placed inside a light-proof developing tank. The lights are never turned off. Once my film is developed, I scan it into my computer for post-processing. If you want to print your negatives in a traditional way, you WILL need a darkroom setup. There are countless videos here on KZfaq that clearly explain fill developing, scanning, and printing techniques. Good luck!

@@BlackLabAdventures thanks. Yes, at the present time, I’m just planning to develop my film, not print it.

I don't have a way to do what you are trying to do. For my situation, I just bought precut sheets of film.

Hello Jeff, Thank you for your note, and thank you for sharing your own experience with these welders. I am not a welder! I just want to be one! I did heavy research this past spring, and that work led me to the Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DC stick welder. It is the first welder I have bought (Okay, I own an Oxy/Acy setup and a small DC Inverter welder.), and it will be the last. And, if my kids want it after I am gone, it will outlast them as well. Lincoln Electric has a fairly extensive resource section on their website. If you enter the serial number of one of their machines, you will end up with a chart that will let you find when a machine was built. Their customer service center is excellent too! I sent them an email asking about the specifics of the internal wiring of my machine, and within 24 hours, I had the answers that I needed. I have been shooting video for over 20 years. In the early 2000s, I even had a part-time business of shooting and editing video. I know what it takes to shoot a quality video and to edit it down into a nice story. It takes time. LOTS of time! It's time that I want to spend working on setting up my retirement workshop, and not time I want to spend behind a camera and in front of a computer. I don't know anything about what I am doing; I am just doing it because I want to teach myself some new skills. I am a 38 year yacht carpenter veteran. Now, I want to learn something about working with metal, instead of wood. The reason that I put this short video up on my KZfaq channel is, I can copy the link into my Facebook page easily. The video doesn't get "buried" here as it does on Facebook. What I post here is more of a "video diary" for me, my family, and a few friends. If someone, like you, stumbles across one of my videos, and gets a tidbit out of it, then that is great! I bought the welder back in May. I am just getting around to cleaning it up, and putting back into service now. If you would like to see a little of the earlier work, here is a link to that video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eJiEf6100t6sZ5s.html Take care! Barry PS: My welder is a "copper core" welder. That's why it is so darn heavy! And, here is one more video about the welder: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ep1mopZzsavNmZ8.html

Just a FYI. The idealarc 250 looked like that with the round top from around 1956 to 1989 then to the flat top versions that are still in production