Yeah you can 100% see how uneven that car is. Its all "splotchy/spotty" terrible job for a paint that costs alot of money

Terrible? Might not be perfect, but terrible...

I try my best. Do you have any sample on how it should be?

​​@@focusformodelers5789 did you paint the GTR at the begining of the video? The model that was painted is way better than the car at the start and considering to buy the paint and do the process as oem nissan, in my country is $15k then add labour on top of that too. You would expect perfection in a vehicle paint job for that high of a price.

El video ya está grabado, en breve lo subiré

Muchas gracias!

It's one of my favourites

Es el de Revell a 1/24

A hermoso gracias

Muchísimas gracias Rubén. Me alegro de que te guste.

Si claro, cuando termino de pintar con un color, limpio el aerógrafo mientras va secando la capa. Para limpiar uso disolvente de limpieza, pero también se puede usar alcohol. Aunque el disolvente limpia mejor, tienes que comprobar que a tu aerógrafo no le ocurra nada por usar ese producto, porque es un poco fuerte y puede atacar a las juntas tóricas del aerógrafo.

Some new ones are coming out this month 😉

@@focusformodelers5789 exciting I follow

I'm glad you like it👍

Thank you!

Thank you for your comment

Thank you very much. Is great to hear that.

Thank you very much. I'm glad you like it.

Thank you🥰

Thank you!

Muchas gracias Víctor👍👍

Thank you!

Thank you!

Eine Stunde ist in Ordnung, obwohl es ratsam ist, von einem Tag auf den anderen zu malen.

If I bad don't remember, I think it was 1.5 Bar or 21.5 psi. The most important thing is not to move the net while you are spraying. The pressure it's not so important. Also the pressure will depend of the airbrush you are using as some of them needs more pressure that others.

Thank you!

🤗

Thank you for your comment. Unfortunately it is not a commercial product, it is all made expressly for this kit. With a little luck, some brand will put it on the market to sell.

Thank you my friend!! I'm glad you like it.

The templates and decals are specially made for this model. It is not a commercial kit

Thank you for your comment, and I'm glad you like the job on this model. The carbon fiber decal for the numbers on the doors have been made with a CAD program and cutted with a plotter. The same for the templates for the red accents. Sorry it's not a comercial kit.

@@focusformodelers5789 I appreciate the response

Hola, lo que utilizo es un poco de blue tack que he amasado previamente. Como tiene adhesivo y no deja residuos es ideal para que sostenga la pieza de cristal mientras la coloco en su sitio. Luego con un giro despego el blue tack del cristal mientras sostengo en su sitio la pieza de cristal con un bastoncillo de los oídos.

La mezcla no se puede guardar. Una vez mezclado con el catalizador comienza a endurecerse y tiene un tiempo de aplicación de unos 20 minutos más o menos. Lo recomendable es mezclar lo necesario y luego al día siguiente volver a mezclar lo necesario de nuevo

Creo que usé 7,5 ml. 4.5ml de laca, 1,5ml de catalizador y 1,5ml de thinner.

Muchísimas gracias! Tus palabras son muy reconfortantes.

The clear coat it's a mix of the three bottles, 3 parts of clear, 1 part of activator and 1 part of thinner. You have to mixe it in a very clean jar and avoid using anything that contains rubber, like a syringe, to don't contaminate the mixture.

@@focusformodelers5789 thank you for your answer also can you tell me what do you mean when you say 3 parts of clear, 1 part of activator and 1 part of thinner

That really depends of the airbrush you are using. With my Iwata 0.5mm nozzle, 26-29 psi works fine. You have to try with your airbrush until you get a fine mist of paint evenly sprayed.

@@focusformodelers5789 thx! I will give it a go, I have a Iwata clone, so should work the same.

As soon as we can!! ;)

Yes, I think I'm using 5000rpm, but ideally is better to use less rpm, it's less risky. If you use 5000rpm just make sure you're moving the polishing pad constantly, if you leave it in the same place for too long you will overheat the plastic and damage the model.

@@focusformodelers5789 thank you so much!

Unos 15/20 minutos. Está seco al tacto en 5 minutos, pero es recomendable dejar secar un poco más antes de dar la siguiente capa. Gracias por seguirnos

@@focusformodelers5789 Muchas gracias!!!!!!!!

Thank you very much!

Thank you, Fernando!!!

Hi Luca! I don't know what it's causing the availability of the Italian Subtitles, but we'll check it out. There is 3 layers of clear coat, the first one is applied in video nº8. You sand with 2400/4000 in the first two layers, and on the third you sand with 2400/4000/6000 and then polish (this will be in video nº 10). My airbrush it's an Iwata Revolution 0.5mm, I highly recommend this airbrush, specially for base coating and clear coating. Thank you very much for following us and for the comment.

@@focusformodelers5789 Hi, some clarifications... every time I sand, do I have to do it until the surface is completely flattened and opaque? Also what pressure are you using with Iwata cr 0.5? I don't remember asking you if you risk bad results with ambient temperatures of 30 degrees and above with basecoats and 2K clears. Thank you.

Exactly, direct to the airbrush. We recommend 0.3mm needle. Stir well the paint before painting and enjoy!!

Hola Julio, se trata de un barniz laca de 2 componentes. Está envasado en un tamaño especial para usar en maquetas a escala. En nuestra página gravity-colors.com/ Podrás comprarla y antes de pagar te saldrá el importe del transporte a tu país. Muchas gracias por formar parte de nuestro canal.

It's not exactly a lighter and a darker version of the principal colour, but yes, the idea is to reach a nice chromatic effect representing light tones, mid tones and shadows.

Encantado de que te guste Víctor

Thank you!!