🤘😈🤘

"...you can't prove anything..." Love it.

You rock dude. This smells like a great application for the new $3000 sls printer coming out. Imagine that bad boy coming out in perfect resolution nylon. Advantage being you don’t need to do a million molds for different phone models and can pack the build areas full.

I completely agree with you re: Blender. It's amazing for most things, granted. However, it's toolkit isn't really suited for fine detail work, and there's functions like additive and subtractive intersections of shapes that I'm fairly sure Blender just doesn't do. I haven't been doing a lot of designing lately so a good video might be good, free and/or low-cost modeling software.

cual es mejor la saturn ultra 3 o m5s pro?

20kg! very impressive draw weight. Still tons of room for design improvements, but with advances in filament materials, a 100% printed tournament bow is probably not very far away. Did the the limbs develop a set, or permanently deformed? Or did it retain it's original shape? Very excited with this. Thanks for sharing.

Try to use a "tillering tree" when testing so when the bow breaks, the pieces will not fly toward you, and you will be able to pull the string far away. Hope you will do more bow prints.

Thanks the the video , that is really helpful! I have one quick question: after printing, do I need to open the box to tidy up the filament before I can store it as a dry box?

I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I've never gotten a clog LOL, started 3d printing 6 months ago have 2 Kobra Neo's. Q1 Pro and A5M

Great practical tips without commercial messages!

I never had a clog in my printers even after a few thousand printing hours. Guess I got lucky

Plastic hemorrhoids. The only way to describe my total blowout last week which destroyed my hotend, nozzle and of course silicone boot. I tried with a heat gun, but in the end, sat for 5 hours and a flat blade soldiering iron and chop sticks just so i could disassemble the entire tool head. Thanks for your video, i learnt some new approaches!

Why? I have not even started yet 😮

In what situation would you prefer to use spool roller instead of those 2 rolling bearings at the bottom? Is there any diference at all?

I just realized that my Sunlu S2 F.Dryer make a hell of a lot of noise. Most noticeable when left running through the night (it’s the built in fan) Would you recommend switching to the noctua 4010?

HEADCRAB!!!!11!1!!1!!

I'm new to 3D printing (6 months) and much to my wife's dismay, I'm hooked. I started with an Ender 3 V2 Neo; I say started because although I only have one printer, it's not really a Neo anymore, which led to me stumbling onto this video. I want an X1 Carbon but if I can build a corexy for even half the cost, I'll be satisfied... for now. Building a printer will be a breeze if the rest of the series is like this one. Nicely done! Liked and followed.

the one with the "square hole" still has a cylindrical part in the middle that you can still tap

Olá, me chamo Alexia, e moro no Brazil, no Brasil não achei video igual ao seu, obrigada pelo video. poderia passar a lista do nome das peças ? tem como fazer isso na impressora Ender 3 S1 pro ? Hello, my name is Alexia, and I live in Brazil, in Brazil I couldn't find a video like yours, thank you for the video. Could you provide a list of the parts names? Is there a way to do this on the Ender 3 S1 pro printer?

I had to rewatch that orange benchy - I didn’t know it was an intricate design, I thought it was a mess that you were joking about being good

thanks, really interesting and it works perfectly on the primitive figures of Blender, unfortunately not on any other stl file that you would like to modify.. can anyone advise me which type of file can be modified within blender or how to transform these stl to be able to add the textures? Thank you!

Try polysonic with a CHT nozzle and your printer's motors becomes the limit

Great video but I wanted to see some of the printing itself

The very unused slicer ideaMaker have texture options.

I think it's a little bit false info about the humidity, if you put silica directly around the temp/humidity sensor.

What texture did you use for the headcrab? It turned out amazing!

i get much stronger petg prints than you it seems, i extrude at 265c 10% fan. 140mms walls and 220 infill. i cant break the benchys i make even with hammers, need a vice or a cutting tool ;) also there are interesting blends of the stuff too. but pctg seems to perform better in every factor except price and variety so far. But it will come with fillers like petg has today hopefully sooner rather than later. personally i like asa as my prototype material today. who uses abs when there is asa i say.

Yea! Positron kit! I'm so looking forward for one. Hope it's the latest version using belts and not the synchro-mesh shown in the video. I didn't know the thing about Graz and Nikola Tesla. Thx 😊

The US has withheld or drip-fed meaningful aid to Ukraine, while they die in their hundreds of thousands, and now they want to get on their high horses about computer power supplies, with the knock on effects it has to all downstream manufacturers?! 😆 As though it's that easy to simply switch to a different manufacturer when the PSU is built into your case...

Link BTT funktioniert nicht

So I can add a ballsack texture to my 3D prints now??

The irish trooper

Is it easy to change filaments while printing? Like the run-out? Thanks. great video.

Hi Jake!, an amateur archer and 3D printing enthusiast here. In redesigning the riser, it is important to consider the following: - Include a "shelf" where the arrow will rest. - If you are right-handed, then that "shelf" should be on the left side of the riser. - The grip (where your hand rests) should be almost in the center of the riser, so the top of the riser should be longer than the bottom, and the arrow rest must be in the center of the string. - It is essential that the rope be "pretensioned" in the bow, and that it not be allowed to become slack. This will greatly enhance the power of the bow. By being prestressed, the string will be supported by the "undulations" of the limbs.

Yo tengo desplazamiento de capas. De forma continua, puede ser la SD o las bandas dentadas

You are shooting a left handed bow with your right hand. The arrow rest is supposed to be on the left side of the bow so that when you shoot Mediterranean draw the arrow gets pulled in towards the bow not off the shelf like this

If you use Linux you have VSCode already? No, no, no... we use Vim ;) Or at least VSCodium (seriously, you don't need the Microsoft telemetry)

I think it would work better with some tension/preload on the bow. Did you break the TV?? 😂🤣

8:20 geplante obsoleszenz :DDD um 90 oder 45 grad gedreht, wäre das nicht passiert

while i like the idea of printing textures, i can't help but think 1 thing with the 'tote' bag you printed.... "is that a trashcan?"

Make yourself a rig where the bow is held on the wall and you pull downwards test it: look at a tillering rig on KZfaq. Means you can pull without risk of it hitting you in the face. Plus bows are strung to a brace height; when strung the bow limbs are already under tension by maybe 10-15%. What you’ve made there is far closer to a crossbow prod than a true bow. So maybe continue and make a crossbow? More than happy to help and advise if you need it: I make bows ;)

You could make the limbs and the razer bigger by printing it one at the time placed diagonal on the bed

That's just a very bad idea and people will end up getting injured. There are just sooo many cool parts one can make for archery and only a few you really should not. Those are risers, limbs and Nocks. Bad bad idea....

I used PETG and some metal profiles for the bow in my recent Shorts video, It was pretty durable, but I wish you upload this video before I shoot that video ;) thanks for pretty useful insights!

As an archer and bow hunter for 20 years, and a 3D printing enthusiast for 10, I can't even begin to address all the fail and everything wrong in this video. It's clear that even the most rudimentary research was not done. The dictionary has a picture of this guy for the definition of 'ignorant'.

I made a 19” riser and plotted half scale as a test - I stood on it to see what it would handle and it didn’t move. I’m around 125kg. I was going to get some 40lb ilf limbs and hardware and build up a full scale but have been smashed at work. I printed with 10-15 perimeter and Infill was about 50% rectilinear. I also did solid layers every 12 layers to add some strength. Plotted in prusament petg. I also plotted some limbs but they are untested. For weight.