We currently have the site under maintenance so were having to take orders manuallyfor the time being. If you email me your product details (square footage, repair work needed) I will send a quote for the materials you will need.

You need the square footage of my stem walls?

Are you wanting to coat just the walls and not the floor? I'd need the square footage of whatever you're going to coat just to make sure you'd have enough material. You can email me at [email protected] as well

The most important part is always the prep. You'll want to get a hold of a diamond grinder to grind the concrete and open up the pores, this will help to bring out the color in the concrete and allow the coating to bond. I would focus most of your research on the prep side as that will take most of your time and is the most important step. We used a 100% solids epoxy primer and high wear urethane top coat in this video. If you are interested in purchasing material please let me know and I'd be happy to get you what you'd need.

Thank you! We'll continue to put more content out. Josh does an excellent job as well!

You can try to repair the bubbles with this method. Make sure to sand the bubbled areas very well to help blend with the rest of the floor. There's a very good chance you will notice the areas you touched up, but repairs normally blend well with traffic over time.

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 TY, i managed to blend them spot on! Ty for your help 🙂

@@jayson-8202 I'm glad it helped!

Thank you! I'm glad the content has been helpful. We're hoping to post a lot more in the future

For all new concrete pours you must wait at least 28 days for the concrete to cure out before applying a coating over the surface. Even with the concrete being new you will still have to prep the surface in order to open up the pores and allow the coating to soak in an adhere to the surface. We highly recommend you mechanically prepare the surface by diamond grinding if you can access the equipment to do so. You can also consider acid etching the concrete as well for a more DIY friendly option. Acid etching isn't the preferred method but I've seen the coating hold up well in a residential setting when a high quality coating is used.

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 thank you for the response. What high quality coating do you recommend? Looking to do an epoxy with heavy flakes for some slip resistance and an aspartic clear coat.

@@banjax80 We can sell you the same material I used in our video. If you email me at [email protected] with your garage dimensions and maybe a couple photos of the floor I'd be happy to send you a quote on the materials you'd need.

Oil is more difficult to deal with and in many cases you can't entirely get rid of it. We had to have the concrete degreased before we started the project, but still had to grind the floor multiple times to remove as much of the oil staining as possible. After you coat the concrete the oil stains generally blend pretty well thankfully.

As professionals we never acid etch a floor. That being said I've seen many people acid etch the concrete and the floor has help up well. Generally most residential garages don't receive an excessive amount of traffic so acid etching combined with a high quality coating will hold up fine. If you acid etch though you want to make sure the solution has been neutralized very well so non of the acid is left over. We have a separate video on coating the stem wall here. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pLGRrKWLsr6qpYE.html

Thank you! This project was completed over 3 days.

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Is the patching compound you use 100% solids with fine sand? Then leave overnight etc?

@@jayson-8202 We used a 100% solids epoxy thickened up to a paste consistency. That material generally set us enough within an hour so we can coat over top of it. Sometimes it's wise to let the patch set up though is the patches are deep enough.

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Thank you 🙂

It really depends on the surface condition, size of the floor and how thick the adhesive is. In many cases it will cost around $1.50-$2/square for floor prep

Thank You!

Yes, we did also run an angle grinder with a 4inch cup wheel over the surface. to suff up the wall and remove any failing coating that was left over

Thank you!

Thank you!

Please reach out to me at [email protected] We're having to fix an issue with our site wo we have to take orders manually for the time being.

We started out aggressively with 16 grit to remove a bunch of contaminants and other coatings. We switched over to 30 grit just to tighten up the surface. Sometimes we'll even go up further to a 70 grit depending on the coatings we're applying and condition of the concrete.

You generally need 16lbs per 100 square feet. So for 400 square feet you'd need 64lbs. The flake is sold in 40lb boxes though so you'd order a total of 80lbs of flake.

Do you know how many square feet the garage is? Does the garage have control joints? If the garage has control joints you can break it up into smaller sections so it will be easier to install the coating.

For residential projects I'm not sure. You might reach out to "Your1dayfloor". I've heard decent things about them

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 thank you.

Hello, I believe you're referring to the stem walls. Ill upload another video soon showing how we coated those. We're planning to add more products as well to make the process even easier

That's awesome! I'm glad to hear you're enjoying your floor, they definitely make the garage feel like an extension of the home. Polyaspartic floors are good floors too. Every contractor has their preference on what they use and why they use them.

Is the floor still mushy? Like if you pressed a spoon into it, would it put a dent into the floor then bounce back over time?

@@nickp3173 not even a little bit. Polyaspartic should be physically hard

@@2mustange I watched another video of this fairly popular youtuber, and it was a few weeks after he finished the project.. it was still soft lol. Guess he didn't mix it correctly.

@@nickp3173 No, once the coating is fully cured the surface is hard. It's almost like a very hard plastic shell on top of the concrete.

I agree. Our customers commonly have their walls painted when they do the floor. It really helps to freshen up the garage!

You want them to paint after. The paint will soak flake in

We used 100% solids Epoxy for the base and a high wear, high solids urethane top coat

All good questions! Unfortunately the garage in this video didn't have control joints so we couldn't address them. I'd like to do a video in the future to discuss the joints more in depth. Do you have joints that were saw cut in the floor or were they troweled (shaped in a "v")?

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Thanks for getting back! They are saw cut joints

@@cjgropper Saw cuts are a lot easier to address. When the concrete is installed the cuts will always be shy of the wall about 2-3 inches because the saw is too big to get any closer to the wall. It's okay to leave the joints this way or you can cut them closer to the wall using an angle grinder with a concrete cut wheel. To prep the joints you can run the angle grinder with the cut wheel down the joints to clean them out. If the joints aren't too dirty you can also simple clean them out using a screwdriver or 5in1 tool and follow up by vacuuming them out really well. When applying the basecoat use a chip brush to coat inside the joint a bit and remove any excess. Just throw the flake normally. After the basecoat is cured and you begin removing the excess flake, run a screwdriver down the joints to break off any loose flake and open the joints back up. Treat the topcoat the same way as the basecoat. Use a chip brush to coat inside the joints and remove any excess coating. Another great thing about the joints is they can be used to make the installation a bit easier as well. Use the joints as stopping points and coat each section separately so you can coat the floor in smaller sections rather than having to install the whole floor at once.

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Thank you sir!

Hello. I have a new garage new home. How much to do my garage standard 2 car

Thank you! We used 100% solids Epoxy for the patch and primer. We did also mix some concrete dust with the Epoxy to give it some color, because if you install most epoxies too thick they will look white.

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Great job man

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 Did you mix fine sand as well?

@@jayson-8202 Not in the video. You can mix sand in the material to help fill deeper voids. You'll have to regrind the patchwork though since the surface will be rough.

Use a 1/8" notch squeegee for the prime and base coat. 1/8" notch squeegee will apply the coating around 150-200 square feet per gallon. For the top coat use a flat squeegee. For most epoxies you have around 30-40 minutes to throw the flake into the base coat. If you're using a faster set coating (like polyurea or polyaspartic) you'll have much less time to throw the flake

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 awesome. I appreciate you replying. I do poured urethane sports flooring, but looking into adding epoxy to the repertoire.

Some the floor coating option like flake will probably be a good addition for you guys. We're getting into product sales, I'd you guys need help on finding good material and advice, please let me know. Well try to help as much as we can.

If you need* . Forgive my spelling lol

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 great. Thank you

Steam cleaner is fine!

This floor was just a grind and seal. When you apply 100% solids epoxy over the concrete it pulls out a natural brown color in the concrete that makes it look stained.

Epoxy is able to withstand a fair amount of impact and abrasion because of its nature. Prep is so important because the prep will determine how well the Epoxy is able to adhere to the surface and withstand abuse like impact from heavy objects. If the the surface wasn't prepped in that instance of the coil, the floor would've started to fail in that area because the bond would've been broken and created a weak point. We do recommend serverely damaged areas receive treatment quickly to prevent potential additional failure in the future. In that particular instance the nick in the coating was only about the size of a quarter which we did repair for them. The degree of damage is also dictated on how an object falls on the coating. For example, if the coil fell flat on the coating, there's a good chance the coating may not have been damaged at all. However, since the coil fell at an angle the sharper side fell into the coating first which did slightly gouge the floor.

There are a lot of variable to determine pricing such as repair work needed, number of coats, system to be applied and the total square footage. The average cost for a 1000 square foot project on a flake install with minimal repair works is around $4-$6 per square foot. If you reach out to us on our contact page at columbusepoxyflooring.com/contact/ we'd be happy to answer any questions you have and give you a better idea on pricing.

An epoxy floor without any media (such as flake or sand) in it will scratch and abrade easier. If the area is getting a lot of daily traffic you should clean it more often to remove any dirt and debris that can abrade the surface. Mopping the floor daily will help to keep the debris down from the daily traffic and every once in a while (maybe one a month) do a thorough cleaning of the entire area. The top coat on the floor will make a huge difference on how the easily the floor scratches and abrades as well. We always recommend a urethane or polyaspartic be used over an epoxy system because they are designed with more chemical and scratch/abrasion resistance. If the floor is getting scratched up enough you can most likely bring it back to life by having someone come in and sand the floor with a fine sandpaper or sanding screen to abrade the surface then apply a clear urethane over the floor. I'm not familiar with spray nine. Id recommend you test it in an inconspicuous area to see if it affects the finish. I've heard a lot of people say they like cleaning with ERC which is designed for resinous coatings. You can check them out here.. www.epoxyresinouscleaner.com/

It's hard to say without seeing it. Just a burn may not be that bad. We've had burn from welding sparks before on our floors. I was able to sand most of the burn marks out. If you're able to sand the burn mark out without sanding off the coating entirely, you can clear coat the area with a resinous urethane or polyaspartic coatings. If you're not able to sand it off you'll have to fix the area with a tinted urethane. Sherwin Williams sells a urethane called Rexthane 1 (depending on the state you live in) you can use and they're able to custom tint the color.

Not sure I entirely understand the question. Do you mean a chunk or glob of epoxy or a chunk of something like a rock that got stuck while the coating was curing?

We always use 18" rollers

Anymore I prefer to fill them after coating the floor. The joints almost always crack eventually amd if you coat over the sealed joint your floor will crack too and it doesn't look good. Unfortunately we aren't selling products right now but I'd use a polyurea joint Sealer. Something like this.. a.co/d/c3ryrSu

Rust can be hard to remove unfortunately if the item was left to sit long enough. You might try to spray the area with WD40 let it sit for a minute then scrub the area to see if that loosens up the dirt. We've had a little bit of luck with this method in the past.

We used a flexible epoxy engineered for movement. For most it's easier to just use a flexible joint sealant, which works just as well.

@@columbusepoxyflooring7400 In your video notes, you have a link to "repair material", but that link goes to a page with many products. Which specific product are you using? This video was really helpul.

@@JesseGavin you'll want to buy the 10x polyurea material. Youll also need a dual cartridge caulk gun. You can probably shop the caulk gun online to get it a bit cheaper.

@@JesseGavin The material is very runny, so make sure there no cracks the material can run through at the bottom on the joint. You can stuff the joints with backer rod so the material doesnt fall. Backer rod - www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-3-8-in-x-240-in-Interior-Exterior-Gray-Foam-Backer-Rod-for-Small-Gaps-and-Joints-71464/202837935

The metabos have always been solid for us. The motor can take the abuse that most other box store brands like dewalt and Milwaukee can't handle as well. I belive Hilti makes a good grinder too but the cost isn't justifiable I'm my opinion. The metabo is just a solid reliable grinder

They also help give durability to the coating adding thickness and some resilience. The flakes also add some texture in the finish. We call the texture an "orange peel" finish. If you get a lot of fluids such as water or oil on the floor you should add additional grit for texture though. Just the orange peel finish doesn't provide enough texture generally for wet floors.

I have never used rustoleum’s patch material so I can’t comment on that. You’ll definitely want to get all of your pits and cracks patched before laying the coating. Another patch material you may try is bondo. It dries very quickly and then you can sand it smooth. The coating you’re applying may help to fill imperfections, but it will depend on how bad the damage is and how thick you apply the coating. I hope this helps.

I'm not sure what you mean by base plates. You can drill in the Epoxy just fine. As long as it's bonded well to the concrete you shouldn't have a problem.