That's an interesting idea. Initially I can think of 2 possible ways. 1. In an editor like After Effects, take how wide you want the image to be, decide how thick you want each bar to be, and then determine how many frames would go into each bar. say each bar is 5 pixels, and 2 seconds (48 frames). You would then squish the entire video to 5 pixels wide (by however tall) and set the duration to 48 frames. Then make a copy, move it over 5 pixels, and shift the time 48 frames. And do that for the entire video! There is likely a way to do it using expression. But even if you could do it, your computer might explode if you tried to play/render it... not sure. 2. My other idea is using the barcode generator software linked in the description. Again you would have to do some math to figure out the relationship between length of the video, width of the desired image, and thickness of the bars, but in theory, again lets say you wanted each bar to be 2 seconds... I guess you would have to make 48 copies of the video file, each starting one second later. Then you run each clip through the software, and it will generate 48 barcodes, all varying by one frame. Combine those barcodes images into a video, and it should animate. To bad the software doesn't have like an "offset" feature or something. Maybe you could achieve the same result by changing the image width and bar count... I'm not sure.

Yeah, I was wearing sandals/slippers, so my foot was pretty much free to do whatever it wanted. Had I been wearing shoes, maybe I would have broken my ankle, or I might have been completely fine. Hard to say. Also, your grandma, aunt, and mom?! geez, I'm sorry to hear that. Hopefully they are all okay now. And hopefully you get your balance from your dad's side ;)

Thanks! Well a big part of the concept is that you can make it completely custom to best fit your wants and needs. So the measurements I used might not necessarily be the best for what you want to make. The main "box structure" is made by using 8 - ½in x ½in x ½in 90-Degree Side Outlet Elbows. You connect 4 of them in a square using 4 pieces of straight pipe, make 2 of those, and then connect those to each other using 4 additional pieces of pipe. So, 8 connectors and 12 pieces of pipe to make the basic structure. There are links in the description to all the different connectors I used, so you can see what they look like. You should be able to find PVC pipe at any big hardware store, like Lowes or Home Depot. If you don’t have those in your area, there is bound to be some kind of plumbing store that carries PCV pipe. However, and unfortunately the ½in x ½in x ½in Elbow is a bit of a specialty piece, so a "mom and pop" hardware store might not carry it, so you may have to buy that online. Or get creative with the connectors they do have by gluing or screwing different connectors together to make something similar. Thankfully since its being used to build a structure and not have water running through it, it doesn't matter if it is connected properly or has holes etc. Again, I like to think of it more like playing with LEGO (or tinker toys to be more accurate) where you kind-a just get a bunch a parts and play until you construct what you are looking for. Now, as for hot water, that one is definitely a bit harder. (If it wasn't clear, mine doesn’t actually have hot water, the red and blue buttons were more just for looks.) That's not to say I don’t think its not possible. There are 'camping showers' that basically have a black bag filled with water, and it uses the sun to warm it up. You could get one of those, and try to build something to hang it from that is attached to the sink. You wouldn’t even need the electric pump in that case, as it could just be gravity based. There are also electric water heaters. Rod like things that you just stick in some water, plug in and it gets really hot and heats up the water.

I'm very glad I could help, and that it worked for you. Yeah, I imagine most powders would have similar results with varying degrees of success. I like baking soda for how inexpensive it is. But yeah, could be interesting to test a bunch of different powders.

Bro is wearing a Safety Pin actually. ;) I originally wore one in high school because of... Hulk Hogan. In his 1993 movie Mr. Nanny, his character told a story about a carving he did on the "detention bench" at his school, with a paperclip over several weeks. When I decided I wanted to carve a girls name into my school desk, I didn't think I would be able to do it with a paperclip, so I used a safety pin. And I put the pin on my chain for safe keeping, to come back and work more on the the carving each day. -- Fast-forward to 2016, people started wearing safety pins to show support for the "vulnerable" basically that they are a "safe person" to approach, talk to, etc. So I figured why not start wearing one again. 🧷

I like to think of it more like playing with LEGO (or tinker toys to be more accurate) where you kind-a just get a bunch a parts and play until you get something you like. But for some specific parts, if you are going with 1/2 inch pipe, you would probably want: 1/2-in Schedule 40 PVC Pipe PVC Tee 90-Degree Elbow 45-Degree Elbow 1/2-in x 1/2-in x 1/2-in 90-Degree Side Outlet Elbow (at least 8 of these to build a cube) (links in the description)

@@IamNickDClements Thank you

Yeah, there are basically 2 kinds of orbital sanders, ones that use hook-and-loop (Velcro*) sandpaper, and ones that use adhesive. (and square ones that have the clamps) For Velcro sanders, the surface of the sander has the "hook" part of Velcro. (thousands of tiny plastic hooks) And the back of the sandpaper has the "loop" part. And the cool think abut the loop part of Velcro is that pretty much any "fuzzy" material can be substituted. (with varying degrees of "stickiness", some less effective then Velcro, some way too effective , to where it get stuck on the hooks.) So, yeah, if you have a sander made for adhesive backed sand paper, and you want to convert it to a Velcro sander, you can just buy some adhesive backed Velcro, usually sold in 1 inch strips. Just cover the sander in several strips of the "hook" part, trim the access. and there you go! And if you ever want to go back, you can remove the Velcro by heating the adhesive up with a hair drier/ heat gun - or, just stick the adhesive sandpaper onto to a piece of felt, or onto of a warn out pad, essentially converting an adhesive pad, into a Velcro pad! *If you didn't know, Velcro, is the brand name, like Kleenex, or Frisbee. Most "Velcro" is probably not Velcro, but "hook and loop" - but it's just easier to call it Velcro ;)

@@IamNickDClements Thanks, Nick. VERY MUCH appreciated 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 Richard

How on earth would that be easier or faster than this?

There really is no "food safe" resin. That said, any fully cured resin is inherently safe. It also depends on indented use. A coffee mug intended for scolding hot coffee, definitely not. A salad bowl, probably pretty safe, especially if it's only a small section. A fork made out of resin, probably not the best idea as it would be going in your mouth, but like a big salad fork, probably not a big deal. Hope that helps, and sorry about your broken ceramics.

@@IamNickDClements thanks so much ! Appreciate it

They should! You can get a soldering iron with some solder for under $10 at supermarket like Walmart. (if you have a Dad over 50, I can all but guarantee he has one somewhere in his garage ;) ) It's a great tool and skill to have. And, yes, even I didn't just have the replacement tips on hand, I had to order them, but now I do have a bunch on hand for next time.

And Towelie from South Park ;)

You're very welcome, I'm glad it helped.

Some men just want to watch the world... lean slightly to the left ;)

It really depends. In my 30+ year experience of turning my walls into swiss cheese ;), screwing directly into drywall for things that don't involve a lot of weight is perfectly fine. And if it does ever pull out, or get loose, then you can throw in a molly.

Definitely!

You can go with photo paper, which is pretty readily available. Any office supply store, Walmart, etc. and of course there are plenty of options online, Amazon. Just search for glossy paper, and be sure to specify if it needs to be for an ink jet printer, or a laser.

Awesome thanks a lot

Hmm, that is an entirely different beast. Oil paints can take months to years to fully dry. I really have no idea what effect putting powder on oil paint would have. Worth experimenting with tho.

@@IamNickDClements i have same problem with my oil painting its so tacky... I dont know how to fix that

@@libriansana8562 how large is the painting? I wonder what putting it in a dehydrator would do? If it is to big to fit in standard food dehydrator, The King of Random has an old video showing how to make a DIY dehydrator out of a cardboard box, a computer fan and a big light bulb. (youtube .com/watch?v=F-Cge4qSOms) Could be a fun project if you are into that sort of thing. -- You can also use a normal oven as a dehydrator, you just use it at a very low temperature... but sticking a finished painting in a oven, sounds kinda insane, so try at your on risk. -- But if you do want to explore this route at all, I would definitely suggest making a small test painting first and seeing how it reacts, if at all, then you can better judge if you want to try it on your real painting. Hope you can figure something out!