Holy crap mam you have no idea how infuriating it is hearing you say "alot nice putting in than the one pice" on repeat as I beat the shh out of this thing trying to install it

flagship one is a large call center in india that 3rd party brokers your ecm from a dismantling yard and charges you a large fee.

Going out on a limb here, with a 99 7.3 if a guy wanted to make sure the truck would crank but not start could I tie into the power Input wire pin 14 with a two way switch without causing any issues with the IDM? Thanks sir

I have a 11 Chevy Tahoe and it’s giving me 3 codes p2723, p0796, p0700.. if I replace the discs will it fix my problem? When giving gas it revs up then jerks forward. It’s not getting pressure. Please help lol

What is the size of the axle nut?

my check engine light came on and threw a code for sensor 1. I removed the sensor and soaked it in injector cleaner and then sprayed it all out with carburetor cleaner and wiped it down put it back in with anti cease cleared all the codes and the light has stayed off and the truck is running great. I will recommend on the LML spend some money and buy a shock it socket set the only way to do it in my opinion.

Call me dumb but was definitely using u as a Manuel but u didn’t say the other valves on second half

Good video, i did this for the first time tonight on a 1968 auto 160 pump Followed steps but when checking timing at the end i set to 201 17° but when turning counter clockwise to dead indicate 0 and back to tdc to check timing pin my indicator clocked 3 times around, did it a few times with same result. Now back at tdc my gauge reads 201. Did i do it correct or am i confusing you as much as i am lol thanks

What was the point of loosening the upper control arm balljoint? I have to do lower control arm balljoints. Brand new Moog lower control arms but their balljoints ripped on both sides after a few hundred miles, passenger and driver. Garbage quality. Gotta research brands now and reviews to avoid another headache.

I just rebuilt my 06 LBZ and I did the adjustment while the engine was on the stand but I think I may have gone a little tighter than how he explained it. I do have a little bit of a tick that I can hear but I'm not sure if it's exhaust or the valve lash

I'd assume this works on the standard as well? I have a 99 24v 5 speed

This can be done without lifting or removing the cab, or removing the transmission. I just took the turbos off a f350 6.4 without doing anything. I'm just here trying to figure out how to remove the actuator from the turbo. 😂

Thank you for the excellent electrical TIPM troubleshooting tutorial, Screaming' Diesel Ltd. One thing that you could have done differently (and much more easily) is to have removed the red-colored face plate on the Yazaki Hybrid 26-way female connector harness (the red-colored inserts slide outward with some gentle finessing by pressing down the center locking clip with a small screwdriver) and just de-pin the corroded Molex crimp terminal by inserting a micro screwdriver into the terminal well to release the internal locking latch. Once released, the crimp terminal wire slides out of the harness. These crimp terminals are Molex 0.64mm crimp terminals with part numbers 34803-0211 (22ga) and 34803-0212 (20ga) These Molex crimp terminals are the purple-colored pig tails that you received in the kit, by the way. This would have been much easier to replace just the damaged crimp terminal and reuse the other non-damaged crimp terminals. The old Molex CMC connector harness could have been cleaned from the corrosion and reused; the plastic material should not have been affected. Nonetheless, I thank you for the great tutorial and for your time and willingness to share your knowlege to help others.

I never heard of a 97 or older getting caught? The pre smog truck arent under the same scrutiny?

if its anything like a 7004r / 4l60 there is a cup shaped device pressed onto the output shaft that has an internal o ring that mates with the driveshaft yoke stopping fluid from running down the splines and out the vent hole. Its probably damage. i have just sealed the hole up in the past with silicone with good results

Been there, done that.

When you started this whole process did you keep the key on the whole entire time?

My guess is that it wasn't properly hardened from the factory. Years ago Chrysler had the same issue with output shafts shearing off on some of the 1 ton standard shift transmissions with first gen Cummings engines installed from the factory.

Ford torque baby

Snatching things while in 4 low, also you would have to tow a 7.3 powerstroke to start it without the starter as the motor needs a few rotations for the hpop to build pressure to fire the injectors with enough pressure for it to run

Over sized injectors! If a stock injector can do 450 hp then why do people go oversized on injectors unless they have built an engine to do over 500hp? As a driver if I were to put injectors over what would I expect at the gas pedal if the tune was set low? What it seams is there’s no reason to go over but there has to be and I just don’t know

It happens. Those splines are not all that strong compared to the rest of the shaft. You'd be surprised at the amount of torque that comes out of that tranny.

I tried to steal it but failed miserably and broke it.

So did a rabid beaver chew the hole in the dash panel for your "not looking like crap" contoller cable install? The rest of the install looks great. I think my 2000 PS is due for these upgrades.

That plug is above the fill level of the transfer case if im not mistaken. If the transmission is leaking into the transfer case, it will overflow, and come out of that plug. I bet if you take out the fill plug, a quart will come out on the ground, or on the floor where that pile of ATF and floor dry is.

What’s the setup

Had to seal the plug on my gen3 mega cab.

That’s your fucking mistake for not checking that when you had it apart

Chevy's have this issue just weld it

Yep I’ve seen it. Temporarily fixed by brake clean and optimum grey silicone.

Not new had that problem 30 years ago

Does this method allow you to replace the lower and upper gaskets?

The “Yoke” is on you

Great video. Thanks for posting.

The vent on top is plugged. Fill the hole in the yoke with rtv.

Guess you will ck that now wont you

I have seen it on a truck there junk 😅

Common.

I've seen this on Chevys mostly. Remove driveshaft, clean off the yoke and fill er with some gasket maker, and let it sit overnight.

I've seen it once 1970 Mustang

I've fixed a few of these. I will reseal the plug.

You couldve gotten that turbo out without taking off the manifold or loosening the engine mounts.

Not too shabby…lol 😢

Seen this a lot. Common GM issue. Weld or replace yolk

Can any scan tool clear it once I have changed the box sensor?

ive seen this plenty of times. The hole in the yoke is to allow air to vent while the driveshaft moves. Its pointless tho bc that air can stay right in the trans with no harm done. Theres a diverter in the transmissions to prevent fluid from going that way, but it usually isnt re-installed when transmissions are rebuilt, or gets damaged or stops working. I just fixed this problem two weeks ago on a ‘85 chevy S-10 drag truck with a 2 speed powerglide. Most people fix this by covering the hole with silicon but it doesnt last that long so the proper fix is to weld the hole shut.

but yet they factory delete them for the military vehicles

It's prob a fn dodge

Do you know how I can get into these tunes to bump up my trans line pressure? I got trans work, but they dont do the tuning to raise the psi

I had same thing on my 2010 Dodge Ram 2500 at first I thought that transfer case output shaft seal was leaking and I bought the seal but before removing the drive line and did further inspection and found that it was yoke was leaking, I sended that plug with sand paper and cleaned with brake cleaner and apprlied high temp silicone all over that cap and it fixed the issue , after that I put 60k miles and still no leaks.