pulley injury isnt too bad kicks you out the game for a bit 2/3 weeks i was out for with my ring finger easier climbs in between just couldnt go as hard

wear a helmet...

Surely you can stand on a scale to gage when you're at 80% bodyweight hang, no? Then when you know well enough what that feels like just use that as your standard

7:32

I'm sure you've done the yellow V5 project by now, but I think there is a way, where you can reach the top more staticly by leaning [and there you just topped it] all they way left on the penultimate hold and then standing up on the middle and right foothold.

Ive been climbing for about 7 months now. 4 weeks into climbing from never climbing before i pulled my a2 ring and middle fingers in both hands. Sucked bad. I went to a climbing specific therapist and he has had me hangboarding every single day. These are body weight and full hangs. I have seen this injury leave super fast and im now way stronger then i was before. I was able to climb at the gym in about 2 weeks and am doing great now. I am still hangboarding the same every single day and am about to start adding weight though i dont know if ill be doing that every day.

20 sec rest? why not 50 as Emil did?

Wow, best beginner I've ever seen. Not to be shan, though, but he didn't flash V5. You need to match the top hold with control, not just touch it and grab a jug. Doesn't detract from an awesome performance though.

numb fingers mean you're applying pressure on your nerves. This should get sorted out within like a week. If it persists, I recommend further changes to the regimen.

Had a guy climb an insane sloper on his 1st day that I couldn't do a year later

So cool, pretty amazing. IMO Artur's arms got pumped faster than Mikes because of technique. Mike keeps his arms straighter relying on his legs more to hold him on the wall. Artur had good feet for a beginner but if you watch his arms he is pulling much more than necessary and not using his legs as much. I think a lot of climbers are going to cross train at the judo gym now haha.

Hangboard was invented by a guy who was already climbing very hard and needed that extra push. Using it to progress as a beginner seems a waste of time. So many other things to train which are more usefull.

I'm cancelling my membership today...

Mike's going to redpoint 8a in 18 months or less. mark my word

Wait, did Emil have more than one no hang protocols? The one I saw he did 10 second on and 50 second off with only 10 hangs altogether.

To me this session proves Artur's beginner status nicely. Way too much solving of moves with large upper body muscle groups instead of foot work and body positioning - thus lacking time/a clear head for planning the next move and looking for options for feet and hands. Really great effort and will be a steep learning curve he can have, but anyone who thought he was not a beginner was clearly way off. Cudos to Mike and Artur for starting Artur's climbing career so nicely! Would love to see more. @Mike: when I started climbing in south-west Germany 20 years ago (on nice grippy sandstone), we had a rule of climbing read-point once and then having to go again, to "confirm" our ability to do that route - exactly for the same reason you stated. Somehow second goes are often harder.

That downclimb was a really solid decision. Congrats, Mike!

Sandbag tied to kim next time

I started hangboarding about 3 months after i first started climbing. Then in about 5 months later, i can hang with weighted 40kg (160%body weight) on 25mm edge... so no, no need to wait years to start training on hangboards (tho i climb only ones a week so I do get long time to recover, so rarely any injury)

Oh stop it Mike, you're not a beginner! I personally also don't think hangboarding is any useful for beginners. If people do want to try it, stay at 20mm or above, open hands to avoid any injuries.

👀wait I’m about to start working at a climbing gym and I’m so tempted to see if I can eventually route set this looks so fun

Shouldnt the program call for a % of the total hanging weight? 80% bw for Emil is much MUCH easier than 80% body weight for you

Id it not impossible to gague. Simply stand on a weighing scale while hang boarding and do the math...

Your fingers are alot thicker

I freaking love this channel

Put a body weight scale under your feet for accurate bodyweight percentages

I laughed so much when artur was like "I only met him today!" haha

8 mm without climbing blows my mind! Respect to the judo guys!

Do you do fingerboard-training Mike? I climb 6c sport outside and 7a bouldering inside. Would you say its worth the pain😂 or not?

Excellent, I was looking at these boards. I do bar hangs everyday on my pull up bar which is a little too thick for finger hangs. Thanks!

Also don't forget to train all the grip types. Hangboard covers crimps, pockets and 3 finger drags. Sometimes even slopers. But please train those big pinches antagonist muscle and slopers. Don't forget it's not just fingers but everything else too. Your wrists, scapulars etc...

I did alot Emil's hangboarding also later to recover from injury. I'd say that this whole process just makes your tendons work better. Because unlike muscles which are happy to just have passive rest, tendons recover very well from stimulus (exercise). They have much better response from that. Also as far as I am aware you should hang for 60-70% of your effort not bodyweight right? Just saying that if someone is a beginner and tries immediatelly 80% of bodyweight they can easily injure themselves... these numbers are always relative to where you are at with power. Also a tip for injuries - warmup. Can't stress enough how much it gets important the further you progress to have warmed up. My power peaks at 1/3-2/3 part of the session. Not at the beginning. It used to be first try best try. Tweaky fingers at least from my experience are best healed by loading them but far less than you would usually do and slowly progressing up again. Not doing anything is good if you injure yourself but if you feel tweaky than rehabilitation is what makes it recover. Not doing anything often makes it stay on the same place

The amount of "Fuck you" 's I've uttered out loud to this video is unholy

are those soft shoes, swear it makes it harder to climb outside

This training sounds similar to those of powerlifters and body builders. Rather than doing our PR weights until we physical can't move, we rather do moderate (but still challenging) weights for more sets. Reason being, the time to recover increases exponentially with the amount of effort; and the strength gained levels off the closer you get to complete exhaustion. So we keep it moderate to balance gains and recovery time. I imagine a better way to do this would be to do as much volume as you need for your forearms to get tired, but not so tired that you don't recover in time for the next session.

I am currently building my own hang board and think that this is a program worth trying

lol +25kg is NOT VALID !!!

Cool but too big imo. Looks like I take it to the woods to cook animal meat in it

hi mike do you need thumbnail designer at cheap rates?

I'm about 22kg heavier than my regular climbing partner and still end up falling pretty good and pulling her up the wall a good ways even with the ohm. I would trust without it.

Videos like this are so inspiring, It makes me want to get back into climbing again. I've tried in the past though and unfortunately all 6'5 of my lank has gone the way of mass strength rather than lean strength. I think that's down to playing rugby and cycling most of my life, but in any case climbing even V2s is incredibly difficult when you weigh 120kg!

Loving your commentary 😂 and also this channel in general.

7:15 stand on a scale and you can see the numbers going down as you are holding more of your weight by your hand😅

I didn’t like the hard catch with the ohm so we switched to a Zaed so much better with the adjustable setting, catches are perfect with the Zaed

Really impressive! I would say half of the challenge for me tho is understanding the beta-- wondering how he would've done had he been asked to go first. If I see someone flash it before me I usually do significantly better than normal. I can do about 50% of the V3s I try but I got a V4 last session after a friend showed me how-- I've only been climbing two months! Granted, I did judo for four years in middle school ;)

I feel like there's a big difference in lower grades and thats due to the history of outdoor climbing, it's been a hobby for people who already know how to climb and have good level of finger strength. That's why the grades feel hard for newer climbers because they start to venture outside after one year of bouldering etc (and that's only a good thing!). The grade gap should even out once you get to 7a-7a+ (v6-v7). So I would say if you can climb over 7a+ inside but can't send a 7a outside, your gym is soft.

Super interesting, great results to be honest!

Tried Emil's program for 1 month and I got very good results. From ~0s hang on 19mm crimp (I'm a beginner climber), went to 11+s hang time on same edge. What I observed, after this month, when I stopped hanging, the hang time lowered to 4-5s. To maintain this time up, I'm doing from time to time different hang trainings (most often I do Emil's one, because it takes only 10 mins). In conclusion, I could say that this training boosted me a big, seeing improvements in climbing grades (gym and rock).

Cinematography was really well done. It was one of the thrings I didn't think about until I noticed some of the other comments mention. It's one of those things where it's easy to notice if it's done badly, but since the video was so well put-together, I just enjoyed watching, and realised afterwards that was in part due to great canera work and editing

This is day 1, hour 0