Yes! We ship to France, no problem! Mayotte is also ok, but may take a little longer to get there. Please contact us through the website if you have any questions. Thanks!

I miss him almost every day, my friend! It's nice to see your name here as well, sir! 👍

Thank you for watching! You are correct, sir. if the knife is overall thin enough, you don't need thinning. Thick blades will require more maintenance thinning as you go.

I'm very glad youy like the emulsion! It's really up to you how you want tp progress from the 5K Chosera to the 2 micron (8K) emulsion. It is a very natural jump to go directly to the 2 micron, but you you acn also do a progression of 4 micron to 2K micron.

@@JendeIndustries Thank you very much!

By the way, could I make the step from 2 micron emulsion to 0.5 micron without the 1 micron?

Excellent to hear that! One thing I have since come to realize is that the brown stone requires very litle pressure to work better. 😎

@@JendeIndustries Agree. I have a Chosera 800 and a 3000 that get a lot of use in my kitchen. Love that mud. Thanks again.

Thank you for watching and for the kind words! 😎👍

This is blade is completely black ceramic. No coatings at all.

Thanks for watching!

Excellent question! Most people generally have a bit of hair from the wife or wherever that can be used to see if the blades cut.

This is a 4x36" belt sander that is usually available for about $100-200 USD depending on the brand.

LOL, I think you are looking at the wrong part. But thanks for taking the time. 🤠

Belgian Blue Whetstone to be more precise...😎

I was a bartender when I was younger - The rule is when you're at the bar, always add more ice. But when you're at home, always add more booze. This is my home 😄😄 But more seriously, I actually don't use a loaded leather strop myself. I always load up my nanocloth, and it takes more, so I add a little too much sometimes on the leather. Ideally you want the thinnest coating possible on cow and roo strops.

With anything mechanical, I tend not to go too refined - usually not over 1K grit. The speed of the machine does the work, and too refined can cause heat buildup and the edges to damage more quickly.

Thank you for watching! Glad you enjoyed it!

I disagree, sir. First drop was from chest height, a good amount higher than if it rolled off a table, and landed on both the handle and tip of the steel. It Second was a real drop from the hand as if you dropped it yourself. The impact from both hits would shatter any other ceramic into at least 3 pieces.

Thanks for watching! In general, the concave aspect of the ride line needs to be sharpened flatly. Over an extended period of time the contact points between the concave/hollow will widen and ultimately go flat, then convex from abrasion (which is why many people avoid the ride line all together). You are not trying to recreate the hollow grind on the ride line, unless you are actually trying to regrind them to hollow - which is far more advanced than even this. 👍

Excellent question! That depends on the spine situation. On many vintage razors, the spine is warped, uneven, or a combination of something imperfect. Sometimes changing the direction like you mention can create a new angle that might not get the edge of the edge. At the lowest grits, it is often masked when that happens, and It usually shows up more clearly around the 1K-4K grit mark. When that happens, you can keep going in the position that hits the edge rather than changing it up. ☺

@@JendeIndustries Vintage razors are often honed askewed and that over time causes the spine to no get abraded towards tye heel area, because the are honing with extreme heel leading, so that puts a ramp/step within the honing plain of the spine tends to stay thick because it doesn't get abraded like the middle and toe of the spine honing plain.

Thank you for watching! Glad you liked it!

Thanks for watching! I personally don't change the angle when using the nanocloth strop on a guided system. I just use 3-5 ultra light single sided strokes. If you use more pressure, then maybe consider backing off about 0.5 to 1 degree. Ultimately, you can play with the angles to see which results you like best.

Thanks for watching! The wearing down of the steel is only half the answer, the other half explains that it's because the softer cladding of the laminated steel, or that you will flatten out the hollow. So you can't really win 😁

Thanks for watching! I dipped the blade in water to cool it off. I normally don't need to dip in water, but because I was grinding a decent amount of steel off quickly, it could have easily blued and ruined the temper. Better safe than sorry :)

You can using diamonds on everything, but be careful, some of the diamond blocks can be very coarse. Go with a medium or fine and then see if you need to drop down a level.

Thank you for watching!

This is the Yong Shin Custom Forged Taiwan Tuna Knife

Thank you for taking the time to watch and reply! Let us know if you have any questions. Nanocloth works. :)

@@JendeIndustries actually, a follow up question: I’ve done a few rounds of loading the nanocloth and letting it dry, using it a bit, loading a bit more…but how much is “loaded enough?” I have your 270x210 strop, 25ml 4 micron emulsion.

@@joshcarter-com If you've loaded it twice now and it was spread evenly over the surface both times, you should be good to go. The strop will always dry black, and it will look like nothing has been added, but it is there! Make sure your first few strokes are tickling the edge. Most guys coming over from leather are used to putting a lot of force on the strop to make it cut. If you need more pressure, add it little by little.

@@JendeIndustries got it, thanks! I probably have more than enough emulsion on mine. Is there a point where the nanocloth should be reloaded?

@@joshcarter-com reload it with 1 even layer of emulsions when you feel that it isn't working anymore. Depending on your usage, it can be weeks or months before you need to top it off.

Thanks for watching! The Jende emulsions work on Leather, Roo, nanocloth, balsa, etc. Each medium behaves slightly differently, but you generally start getting hair whittling around 0.5 micron.

Price is US 799 and we do ship to the UK. jendeindustries.com/chef-s-roll-knife-bag.html

Silicone is a lighter lubricant than 3 in 1 oil but I like it primarily because it is greaseless. Oils on the blade lube and protect from rust, but they also tend to act as a sponge for dirt and hair to buildup on. It's not a huge deal as long as the blades are kept lubed regularly. I like to oil before assemble to make sure I get all the parts covered, even if I wipe the excess down before assembly.

Glad you enjoyed it!

I'm glad some of your questions were answered through this video. Here are the remaining answers to your questions. The nanocloth strop will ALWAYS dry black of light gray. It will not take on the color of the emulsions. Loading the strop 2-3 times initially is usually more than enough to get it going. Then you can use the strop for days, weeks, or even months before reloading it with one layer of emulsion, depending on your stropping frequency. The difference in diamonds vs the compounds is how they work. Compounds polish the surface while diamonds continue to abrade. I'd like to note that you are comparing apples to oranges with materials - Leather is 2 dimensional stropping, while nanocloth is 3 dimensional and you can't apply the wax based compound bars on the nanocloth. There is a learning curve when moving from old school leather with green compound to the nanocloth - mostly the pressure applied because of said abrasion and dimensionality is too great when first coming over from the leather to nanocloth. Also, you may need to address your sharpening progression up to the strops, especially the first time you use them. There's no definitive best strop out there. It's like choosing your favorite carbonated beverage - nanocloth is just another viable option out there to help make your sharpening better, and even a little more fun. Thanks!