If a was you i will change the whole cable,try to put some dialectric all around the post and cablee, is to dry and old, they get rotten on the inside

nope mines 65-80F depending on the heat

Slide pins are over rated. I don't use them

Great vid! Certainly was useful in helping me get a game plan for my stud replacements. I saw another vid on a Mazda sedan where he skipped the step of yours where you disassembled the cali. Instead, he first removed the 2 17mm bolts and then pulled the rotor and caliper off together. If it works, could be a big time saver.

Bro you hangin meat in your car?

keep up the work, don’t ever stop

I have some 30 or 40 year grease that i use. Its been used enough that it has just enough grease on the walls of the container to get a perfect coating

This has helped me diagnose my own front suspension, thank you sir!

Could the crank sensor be faulty without a code? I took a peek at it & it’s caked in old oil plus oil is in between the plugs. Having RPM surging at idle and car has died on me on back to back drives right at 14 miles in followed by a crank no start until engine is cold. Same symptoms as a bad fuel pump resistor but it’s been bypassed correctly

To remove the starter, I had to loosen a bolt behind the engine that secured the coolant pipe (the pipe that goes to the top bolt on the starter.) This gave me the necessary clearance to pull the starter out. I also started from the bottom… and then ended up doing it from the top like you said haha… it was much easier

If your missing any refrigerant, there's a leak

Stolen car?

So u didn't do anything for the customer other than get them to come back. Terrible service

I have a very similar leak, and since the valve didn't want to come out I just tefloned the fitting and screwed the cap back on as tight as I could. Still holding 2 years later, I checked the low side last month and it was still at the same pressure.

How long did thus take you

What’s the hpfp reading on ur ap from the vid it doesn’t look like you have a cel on of it driving from my experience with mine it does that when there a boost/vac leak and have no throttle response I also read a comment of someone saying you don’t have a oem maf amd that could be a major culprit my next ? Would be how many miles in the car have you ever had your di injectors flow tested and clean and new injector seals put on I recommend over speed injector seals …. Are you running e at all cause if so like my self I have to break down my hpfp once or twice a year to clean the hpfp

"Compressor is not engaging" It's not seized, the belt isn't screeching and squeeling on a seized Compressor pully and I can see it spinning. The magnetic clutch coil is probably bad, all you do is remove the pully, get in there with snap-ring pliers and pull out the coil, replace with a new one between $45 to $100 part.

You work in a shop or shade tree DIYer? Either way I'm subed

😂😂

Excellent breakdown brother clean cut video as well Recovery is becoming very important. Is this still using r-134a? My compressor’s bearing on my old 2002 trailblazer is going but it gives me a supercharged sound when the clutch engages😂 But I’ll be damned if that AC ain’t ice cold

😂 How rusty is your fuel tank inside ? The rust will begin all around the pinch weld seam . It will cause blockage in the fuel sending unit and cause damage to the high pressure fuel pump as well as clogging the pressure regulator and injectors. THINK ABOUT IT !!! Most of your Mazda’s are 20-25 years old. Fuel tanks need to be kept above half a tank or approximately where the pinch weld is

what is the exact reference for the fuel pressure sensor for gen 2 BOSCH 0261 545 053 or BOSCH 0261 545 006 ? thancks

are you still running it?

Thanks man super helpful!

How do you display those center cluster lights i have an 06 spped 6

Dont say stock to the hpfp

Dude I moved my fuel line and other lines and removed the torx bolts and it still won't budge. Apparently nobody else has this issue either 😭

I broke mine to do u have part number or link for the pump mine rubbed of bc I cleaned it with break cleaner

Thanks for the information. fixed the issue but now my brake light is on all the time when lights are on. Any thoughts?

We had the same problem with our 2018 Tucson. The replacement of the tail light wire harness solved the problem. Actually the problem is with the black bulb receptacle. There is a copper tab on the inside wall. This copper tab is supposed to touch the light bulb side body. After a few years this tab doesn't spring out properly and there's no contact with the bulb. Make sure you look at this before spending money on a wire harness. I have pictures of the problem but couldn't upload it.

you made this look less scarier, mine is starting to make noise after almost 120k on the clock so it was time for a new one haha

I know this video is old but im getting a p0300 code new plugs, timings done, getting a similar issue hitting a wall/stutter at 5k rpms

Do you have the part number for the studs??

Do the left and right side harnesses have the same part number?

When you scan it marks the pin where you scanned the package, so I try to scan at the door to help other drivers find the location easier

hey joe. great video man. are you able to post a video on how to remove the intake manifold ? i have an 08 Speed

I put my knee on the bottom of the clip so it didn't pop out and I could use 2 hands to do the other side.

P1260(00) Mazda 7 2016😂😂

hello! I have the same problem as you but it only fails between 2,500 and 3000 rpm! I don't have a check.... could you help me with the ebay link of the part you changed? I can't find it

wait... no slide pin removal? 🤨 0:18

torque of the nuts ?

I had the same problem dude i end up changing sparkplugs and ignition coils also the throttle body the car runs perfect just 1 think i notice is that the car does not respons and boost so quick as before

Brother can I just replace cable? cable for door latch snapped but latch itself is working. Why to buy the whole thing if I can just replace cable? ofc if it can be done

Do u need to replace the whole rail or can I just replace the fuel sensor?

Thank you🙏🙏 Thats what every video was missing. That second rod thats clipped in. It would not budge but i got it out😂😂

My Speed6 has been sitting for years. It is having a stall after startup. Cleaned all grounds. Replaced ITFP. Do to how it was acting. Upon more research I came across your video. This took care of it. Thank you.

1:09 was what I have been searching for! Thank you!!!

does anyone know the part number of the little plastic piece that slots in under the upper part of the shaft? mine broke while doing this repair and I do not know what the part number is to order a new one

Still have the car? I just did a swap and I’m having major fuel cut off issues similar to this. Thought it was spark plugs and nope