Common Motors has lots of upgrade DYI videos (including the charging tricks) and are a pleasure to work with.. You can't go wrong with Common Motors.

Ours still isn't perfect. Gonna take it to a tuner soon. Just trying to get the car broken in and fix all the bugs. I suspect the new Holley Sniper 2 fixes a lot of the issues we've encountered. Nothing like paying $1200 to be a guinea pig...

Across the tops of the right side (brake side) of the engine to the left side (shifter side) of the motor and turns down to a 45 following the frame.

Tach signal is my guess. No signal = no run. It takes four wires to run, pos, neg, tach, key basically.

Thanks

Glad we could help, kicked our ass for months too 😃

Give it a try, but that rings a bell, let me think a day on that, Ken

@@crnutsmotorsports yeeep fixed it with that lol

Typical car 1 gallon. There are a lot of variables depending on if the is a color change, how far you intend to take down the original pai, if your gonna shoot a single stage urethane or a base + clear system. In this case / Honda Trail 70: a pint of each, Base, Mid-coat + Clear, not to mention primers and prep. The prep makes the difference between a good & bad paint job.

@@crnutsmotorsports thank you for your reply:) it was very informative:) i appreciate the insight:)

Thanks for the question. The bike was running fine however it was starting to leak coolant out of the cylinder head and upon review the power valve vent was also producing too much oil blow by due to the elbow being worn out after xx amount of hours of ridding. Neither one is directly related to the other as the cooling system is isolated from the piston making power. I think you have a carb issue (likely) or a dirty power valve (possibly). Per the 1999 Suzuki manual they recommend cleaning the power valve system every 4 ½ hrs to 6 hours. I would look at a few basics. #1 is the carb tuned correctly? #2 Is the power valve adjustment correct to the factory settings (clockwise 1) give or take. The power valve has a lot to do with what it does with the “load” is sees. #3 Review how to read the plug which loops back into #1 of carb adjustments. With that said a few weeks ago (Jan 2024) after about 40 to 50 hours on the motor (about 30hrs shown in the video at that time) I just installed a new top end and cleaned all the top cylinder parts like the power valve and was surprised on how much oil it was swimming in and caught the piston right before bad things were going to happen to the bottom end, **6hrs 50 hrs**... same thing right...hahaha. That and a quick carb rebuild. Carb settings are needle 2 down, air screw 1.5 out, main jet 152, pilot/slow jet 42 with the float high of 16mm or 0.63" on FMF pipes and FMF silencer Powercore 2. Fired right up second kick but I still need to put some heat cycles into it out on the trails before its track day. Per the manual troubleshooting steps for “engine runs poorly in high speed range” list the following- narrow spark plug gap, incorrect carburetor fuel level, incorrect main jet settings, retarded ignition timing, CDI unit malfunction, ignition coil damage, air cleaner element clogged, magneto short circuit, exhaust pipe cracked, exhaust valve malfunction or piston ring stuck. Hope that helps and good luck with your ride.

13.5, always jumping around a bit. Can't say much for full load. Still breaking it in. Only 250 miles, 1/2 throttle gets you into a lot of trouble 😲

Sniper require aprox 60 lbs of pressure. Over pressure should be discharge back to the tank. The sniper has an internal regulator in the unit. I assume your talking about external pumps, not in tank. No matter, put a fuel pressure gauge on the entry line to the sniper. They are not expensive ($30) and provide peace of mind. And it may sound dumb, but make sure you got it plumbed correctly. In, to the in, I have made that mistake, as stupid as it sounds.

I already installed a 95psi fuel pump and still no injection, truck starts with starting fluid but won’t stay on 😕

Do you have a tach signal? Sniper wont run unless its getting a tach reading.@@lifeshare9074

@@crnutsmotorsports no I do not, i will get one tomorrow, where do I plug it in? I’m sorry I’m asking all this questions I’m new to this

I contacted the Holley customer services and no tach is needed for signal, what I do have wrong is the distributor, the one that is in now is not compatible with the spider carburetor, I just ordered a new distributor I will keep updated

We generally run 40:1

I ran across this gent. Way more advanced than I'm comfortable with buy it shows that there is a flaw and a fix. If anything, it's educational. If I go to a dyno, they'll do all this stuff. Right now my Visa is overheated 😅 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fcx2Y7hhs7SVkZs.html

Both bikes have compression, that's a positive sign. We'll pull the heads on both for a closer inspection. We don't do a quick flip, we go threw everything. We treat them like they are our own.

We buy these as is and tear them down to bare frame. Nice thing about newer bike is parts availability. Thats proves difficult on the vintage bikes we do.