I have learned so much from John over the years. Important little tips , you can't find anywhere else. And he's a complete Gentleman.

The Pragmatic Luthier sent me here for some instruction. I have been instructed! Many Thanks!

Great video, Very helpful. Thanks for making it!

Nice shop,wish I’d known more about making guitars early on. It’s a very satisfying line of work.

Thank you John for the making of This video.

At 15:30 you mention that when cutting a specific wood you want to adjust the router speed so the ‘heat’ goes into the chip instead of the top, back, sides or the cutter. What do you mean by the chip?

this is the actualk piece that I used for the ASIA Symposium , those that attended , you can now see the process at it actually happened

If I understood that correctly, I think the layout was: stain, shellac, 3 x aquacoat, shellac, nitro for the body, and just shellac + nitro for the top. Which sounds pretty ideal to me, but I wonder wat alternatives there are to aquacoat for the people who are a bit leery of it.

good video, I've had a guitar with a lifted bridge that I haven't been able to play in nearly 8yrs so i'm gonna go for it

It is nice to see how you layer your sealer and filler. What type of shellac flakes do you use? Do you use a clear Aqua Cote filler?

Awesome, I have heard mixed reviews on the aqua coat,I haven't had the balls to try it because of the reviews after seeing it does work pretty well I'm gonna try it so thanks again

Thank you . great info

the machine is designed for the ridgid none of the small routers will fit.

Thank you for the great video.

Great video John !

Do you know of a kit to recreate his 12 fret D28?

Would you reccomened anything other than windex? Its not readily available here in the UK. Cheers

I've talked to ya on the phone and I'm email I was supposed to come and by a bending machine from u last April but rest assured I'll be coming up this tax time,, I'm Mike from York county

Thank you Mr. Hall for your Expertise .

side thickness?

Expert tips, thank you John Hall for making this video!

Thanks for telling us what kind of glue

Brilliant ,.... not sure why I did'n come up wit this myself , but sure glad John did and shared it.

Very cool idea! Do you set it to the desired finished radius, or a bit more, to handle the top/back wanting to stay flat?

Cool

I love jig videos.

Fit the nut in the slot tight and there's no need for glue... No time wasted on it drying..... Keep on working.... Get it done.

Thank you John.

Very cool, John!

Hello please tell me why you use windex instead of water? Does it make the wood relax or prevent staining?

Hi John. Do you recommend a ‘corded’ trim router or a battery operated (cordless) for this task? Thank you

At 1:00 you said, “I jointed the edge so I know my edge is true”. Ken Parker uses what’s called a “Spring Joint” when he joins his top and back plates on a shooting board with his no. 8 Stanley plane. As you know, a spring joint is where the plates are planned in such a way where a slight gap remains in the center. The top and/or back is then clamped together with the center clamp(s) used to close the remaining gap. This ensures that both the outer edges of the top and back plates never separate due to changes in humidity. Of course Ken builds archtops and not acoustic guitars but was wondering if you recommend this method for use in joining acoustic guitar tops and backs? Below is the video link of Ken Parker explaining the use of the spring joint starting the process at 11:15 but I recommend watching the whole video in order to connect all the dots. Thank you John! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q6h0qqmfyt6bYZ8.htmlsi=sfVcBrNiWyPf4Wtk

John, did you ever try the hand method using a gramil? Just curious if using a gramil is another viable alternative?

Hi John, are there any plans on how to build that binding jig? I like your method versus rotating the guitar body around the fixed router position.

Thank you cool video!

By wet paper do you mean you had wet wax paper?

I pray my guitar never falls into the hands of this man. Lol

Thank you John for letting people know that you can rough out your saddle without an expensive thickness sander .. I already knew this , howevits great to see people post this on the web .... I have learned a lot from you over the years... thanks for posting all your videos... BTW, your video that explains how to set dovetail necks is the the best on the web .... and thanks to you I would rather set a dovetail neck than a mortise and tenon ...bolt on ... Because you don't have to bolt it on to check neck angle over and over ... I also use a sanding block to do the job like you show . And chalk instead of carbon paper .. it's so fast .... Now as a luthier I'm the only one doing neck resets that all the local luthiers shy away from.

Mr John. I’m fixing to be bending maple sides. Right now I have it right under .100 . Should I get it thinner? I’m Super nervous about it

Hi John, that was a fantastic tutorial on bending figured woods. Ken Parker (of Parker Guitars) gives an in-depth video series on bending wood. He uses epoxy and linen on the top side of a bend (part where wood expands) to prevent cracking. His method is shown in part 2 of the link below. Just curious what your opinion is of this methodology. Part 1 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q92ceat6rNiXpHk.htmlsi=7ftlDDIT28rn4J54 Part 2 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rNCjhqyops_Pd4k.htmlsi=-QuYQNp7_KbP8U1k

Nothing about the gluing needed learned except WHICH GLUE. I still don't know that. :)

Help

Beautiful wood indeed!

What is involved in "cycling the temperature"?

Thank you.

Thank you! Worked great and is very simple!

I do appreciate the conciseness of this video, but I clicked on it to find out what kind of glue to use. There are many adhesives so it would have been good to include the particular one. Still, I admit the technique is helpful and recognize this gent as a professional.

Thank you Sir! I'll be attempting this on my old classical guitar 🙏

01:09 D-18, result 23:01 23:31 D-45, result 50:58

The neckset is the most important step in building a guitar. If you are a novice I would recommend a trained luthier either do it for you or do it along with you. The last thing you want to do is have to steam the neck back off and do it again. If you are "skilled" you could probably do it yourself. I set the neck with the fretboard taped on and the bridge in the proper place. I use a ruler, straight edge, and a piece of string to simulate the two outside E strings. I measure and check everything " over and over and over"...then glue on the neck.