I'm adding steel support on all sides of the tank. I'll support the conical section of the tank to the new and existing steel legs. I'm adding flat strap steel around the tank. Then, multiple cross support sections to each leg. The flanges and 4" steel pipe on the discharge/underflow are very heavy. That'll need support, too. The tank will hold approximately 1,110 gallons of water. That's 9,246 lbs. I'm looking forward to sharing Part 2 of the video. If you haven't watched part 1 yet, here's a link to it. Thanks for your comment. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gKuggpiG1t-UooU.htmlsi=m7VrPPbzQ1nmASci

@@mineoperator Let me know if you need any FEA analysis of the tank/silo or support connections and reinforcing. Your plan sounds good. The transition from the cylinder to the cone might need some thought. Stiffeners on the cone tied to hoop bands on the cylinder seem like a good idea. Cool project.

@anthonysei You peaked my interest as that's over my head. I'm curious about the cone joint where it's welded to the upper cylinder. I'm also contemplating the footings. Ideally, I'd want to pour a concrete foundation or piers. Time and costs are issues. For the time being, if I make the footprint wide enough and the steel plates on each leg big enough, and the compaction of the sandy soil is 95%, could I just install it on some buried railroad ties. If $ was an issue I know what I'd do.

@@mineoperator I guess it all depends on the thickness of the steel and how it's joined at the transition between the cylinder and The Cone. I did a quick sort of generic analysis here and I don't see any issues but you are correct in making sure your footings are substantial enough so that there is no settling that causes uneven load distribution

@@mineoperator designs built and installed some pretty large tanks in my day up to 30 ft tall 50 ft in diameter so I have some experience with all of this. Many of the tanks are pre-engineered plate steel and anything beyond 10 ft they start to double up and triple up the plate at the bottom. You can send me some detailed information and I could refine the model and look for problem spots but you seem to have a pretty good handle on what you need to do to reinforce it so I think you're probably good to go

@@rossgee2950 Thanks! We can't wait to get back to running our millsite and recovering some gold!

Great ideas! Thanks for those suggestions.

@Alrik. Thanks for letting me know that the subtitles helped. It takes an additional hour editing but if it helps our viewers, I'll gladly put in the time. Thanks for your comment!

@@mineoperator you really make top shelf content.

@Alrik. Thank you. We try our best and keep learning. We learned alot from Freddy and Juan. Can't wait to show their fixes. We can show them after the episode airs.

Yeah, I'd rather take dry heat over humidity any day. Thanks Bill!

@@mineoperator I’m from New England. I’m sure you can imagine 😆

Thanks for sharing this link/product. I've gotta try this out. Might be able to incorporate it or use it for a mobile operation in remote locations. This silt bag could really help us.

@@mineoperator We procure large silt bags, then cut them up to fit the various systems we employ. Alternatively, you can buy rolls. The fabric can be reused, or repurposed as retaining walls with perhaps plants, because they are biodegradable. The bags, once full, can be hung allowing the water to drip out, if you need every drop...etc. You could mix cement allowing the filled bags to harden into stones for a more permanent retaining (just imagine stacking the bags). You'll figure it out, Cheers! 😎

@Jatslo This was extremely helpful. Thank you.

@@mineoperator The silt bags are breathable, allowing you to use a high-powered vacuum to fill them. Once filled, you can easily lift the bags out of the area. If the fabric becomes clogged, you can clean it with a pressure washer. Some fabrics are resistant to both alkaline and acidic chemicals, which can be useful if you’re using such substances. A closed system is best when fighting evaporation or mitigating dust; in any case a silt bag is highly versatile. Yes, your water tank is interesting for sure; that piqued my interest. TY

That's a great question 🤔. My schedule is so busy and it's difficult for me to travel right now.

@John-ir2zf That's so funny. I looked over at a tree in my yard as well. Gotta use what we got lol.

@@mineoperator exactly, make do any way we can !

@johnglasgow4176 Thanks, John. We're excited to get this installed and test it out. Thanks for your comment!

@@BillMulholland1 😆

@@mineoperator 😆

Thanks! Now to see how well it works.

Very rarely do we run ore that has organics in it. When we mucked out a drift, there were organics from mice and rats. The mine dumps or tailings rarely have organics in it. We don't see organics with head ore. In the event we do, there's a screen after the mill and before the table that collects the majority of any organics. If some make it past that, the remaining would collect in the sandscrew, or 1 of 2 steel tanks with baffles after the screw. By that point, we're pumping the silty water into this clarifying tank. I'm sure we're gonna learn alot when we start testing this in the real world scenario.

@mineoperator Out my way we get alot of organics out of the dumps. On occasion in the mine I've seen roots as deep as 300 ft.

@me5768 wow that's deep. How did you deal with those?

@mineoperator We picked out what we could then we used a old air filter from a d8 cat to filter the water. It's still out on the property I guess I didn't show it to you when you came for a visit.

@@me5768 Improvise

Me too Ethan. I'll be excited and nervous.

You can do it! Have fun, keep investing in yourself, and keep it safe.

@@strizza our pleasure. I think all we had was a very broken 1/8” and a plastic 1/8”