There is nothing wrong with the audio in this video. I suggest you check your speaker system. Thanks for watching.

I have no problem understanding him.

I have shown you what I have done. It is up to you to figure out any changes you wish to make on your own. Have fun! Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. Ron

Eachine ET5 - Taking It Apart kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o6xlibBovaynlpc.html

@@RonaldWalters2010 en el vídeo te dice el tamaño de l culata

@@RonaldWalters2010 y podrías hacer unos planos de la culata

Thank you! Ron

Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel running! Ron

Regular shingles somewhat impede the flow of water off a roof. A metal roof is like downhill bobsled run... water runs off it quite fast... and so does a sheet of ice or show when it breaks loose. The outside edge of your gutters need to be below the line of the metal roof. So if you place a straight edge on the metal roof, the outside edge of the gutters should be approximately 1/2" below the straight edge. So if it rains really hard, some of the water may overshoot the gutters a little. Little balls of sleet or hail will mostly go right past the gutters but the snow and ice will not shear the gutters off the side of your house. The snow stops slow things down so the whole sheet of ice or snow won't come off all at once... which can be quite dangerous and that is what I had happening on the sun side of the roof before I installed the snow stops. The other consideration is roof penetrations like PVC sewer vents. They should be as high up on the roof as possible, otherwise the weight of a sheet of ice can shear the pipe off flush with the metal roof. A metal roof is great and you will avoid many roof replacements after several hail storms compared to your neighbors, but there are a few things to look out for. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe. That is what keeps this channel running! Ron

yes

That was ten years ago... I have no idea. :-) Thanks for watching!

The diluted bleach kills off the algae and whatever else in growing in there and hopefully gets into the pores of the concrete and neutralizes what is in there as well. By the time this is done the diluted bleach is pretty much spent... but who cares if it absorbs a bit into the concrete. :-) Thanks for watching!

I meant glad the fan worked out for you, not “motor.”

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish with the "current limiter"... slowing down the motor? Sometimes limiting power to a motor will cause them to heat up and/or burn out. My motor is driving a geared mechanism but can't really answer you question "how heavy a load". All I can say is the motor has sufficient power to drive the load. Don't know where you sourced your motor. These are purpose/application designed motors and the surplus motors available out there vary greatly between very weak to quite strong. All of these will need a cooling fan if they are running for very long. If you need to turn something in your speaker slower, I suggest you forget the light bulb and use a set of gears or a drive belt reduction or look for a shaded pole gear motor that turns slower (stronger motor with more gears in the gear box). Some are strong enough to hurt you... such as a rotisserie. Another method could be to use a stepper motor, which can be programmed to run different speeds. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

My mistake for not explaining the current limiter, I didn’t want my first comment to be too winded; the bulb I’m calling a current limiter is seperate from my motor, it’s a circuit with an outlet that plugs into your wall to place this 300w 120v bulb in series with your live 120vAC, and it will flow to dissipate large amounts of heat if you plug in a device with a partial or a dead short. I wasn’t after anything technical when I asked about the load, not an answer centered around data at least… is it for a tumbler? For example, what ls the diameter of the drum and how much weight can it be expected to turn? Whatever the load may be, does the low starting torque of these motors cause yours to get up to speed slowly? Do you allow for any belt slip? The good stuff is always in the details, who needs data? Lol

My experience with these motors is they will either start or not start. There is no slowly getting up to speed. If they don't start I suspect they will heat up much quicker. I have not built a drum tumbler. Following are examples of applications where I have used the shaded pole gear motors. These are pretty strong gear motors and unfortunately the source has dried up. Closest thing I have seen to one of these is for a BBQ rotisserie. Closest to stalling out one of these motors is the Busker Organ Air Supply. Marble Machine - Ring Gear Lift (wood gear reduction) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h-B5epyk2ay8g30.html Marble Machine Teaser - Pin Gear Roulette (wood gear reduction) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y71kgcRqq820lXk.html Flat Disc Electrical Slip Ring (shows view of motor installation) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rZ6Sd8uSldneeY0.html Spray Can Paint Mixer (gear motor direct drive) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eKyfqptpu7Dcnmg.html Building The Busker Organ - Motor Drive & Gears Part 4 (wood gear reduction - the largest load on one of these gear motors) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a599pt2oucuopn0.html Building The Busker Organ - Manometer Test Part 5 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mdSBqdl4mrabeKc.html Senior 20 Organ (25) Making The 17 Front Pipes (near the end - using the Busker to test organ pipes) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ntmHi9Jnp8yofWw.html Rewinding Filament Spools For 3D Printing (belt drive used) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ZpmVqLCK16_aZ4k.html

That’s my experience too, as you’ve stated these motors are very inefficient and they have very low starting torque; hence my questions about belt slip to allow slow spin-up of a loss it couldn’t otherwise drive directly, as in a gear pulley system instead of a groove pulley system. I’m dealing with grooved pulleys and belts, where as you’re clearly dealing with gears in many of your projects. Thanks for the links to your other videos by the way! I checked out the marble tower, pretty cool. I’m not sure what your motor source was, but these are the extremely common motor found in many refrigerator condenser fans, kitchen/bathroom vent fans, microwave cooling fans… This type of motor you and I have are generally below 1/4HP and about 40 watts. If it’s the gearbox you’re after, that wouldn’t be hard to DIY, especially considering your level of DIY includes a lathe… lol What is your source? And do you know the RPM of your motor(s)? I’ve found a free app for Apple that lets you adjust your cameras frame rate to match/determine the RPM of something. Pretty useful!

I do not understand what you mean by "dispense from the base of the can". These cans dispense upside down (nozzle pointing downward. I have had out of date cans work just fine... but at some point in time they won't do anything.

@@RonaldWalters2010 Sorry, I should have said from the top nozzle (without straw extender attached). There's no propulsion at all but plenty of weight to the can. Time to trash it?

Sounds like you have lost the gas in the can. If the nozzle is pressed with the nozzle pointing upwards, the gas will be lost without pushing out any of the contents. Time to trash it!

@@RonaldWalters2010 Rats! Thank you for the info.

I trust you have also seen Part 2 where new grips are 3D printed. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

The process to take the ET5 (same as M12) apart to replace the o-ring piston ring. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o6xlibBovaynlpc.html Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

There is a thrust bearing... wood... polished and waxed. It'll last a 100 years. :-) Thanks for watching! Ron

Sorry, haven't seen one of these with a threaded shaft. All of mine had shafts with a flat and the sprocket was glued on. Good luck!

Check you email... I sent it a few minutes ago. Ron

No.

Wherever they sell router bits. Common item.

Glad you enjoyed it. Look around on my channel and you'll probably find other subjects of interest. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

Thanks for watching and for your kinds comments Very much appreciated! Hope you have subscribed! That is what keeps this channel running. :-) Ron

The base is attached to the top of my mailbox with double side carpet tape. You could drill and countersink a couple of holes and use flathead wood screws to attach it to a post. The screws just need to clear the upper rotating part. I use ceramic roller skate bearings in mine. Unfortunately the moisture gets to the steel parts and they rust so I need to replace the bearing about once a year. They don't seem to make any that are 100% ceramic nor stainless steel. The machine screw is M3 (metric). Usually the threads print pretty well but you may need to chase the threads with a tap And then... the top outside visible screw just plugs the hole to keep water out (the hole gives access to the M3 screw). Use whatever you want for it... M4. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel running. Ron

@@RonaldWalters2010 thanks for the info, appreciate it.