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@itmakesyouthink 5 күн бұрын
Give a callout to the rock. Solid 🫡
@zachlove283 5 күн бұрын
Doesn't adding that carabiner redirect all of the force to one anchor instead of equalizing between 2 anchors though??
@climbingtaiwan 5 күн бұрын
Hi. Yes, adding a single carabiner redirects the force to one bolt. With modern day bolted anchors that are robust, the equalization principle isn't really necessary to achieve. However climbers are free to make any choice on their own anchor setup as they wish.
@RajChauhan-jq4te 5 күн бұрын
Gram parikrama post shohratgarh district siddharthnagar
@RajChauhan-jq4te 5 күн бұрын
Steel check karne wala chemical chahie
@donpindol778 5 күн бұрын
Give a try threaded concrete bolts either 8mm or 10mm driven directly to concrete or stone, without a sleeve, reusable.
@russell4280 5 күн бұрын
Bro are you nile red you sound exactly like him
@climbingtaiwan 5 күн бұрын
Nilered and I are both half Asian & white mixed 😆. Genes I guess
@MountainMullet 6 күн бұрын
That's a really nice design. Nice big ring and bare-bones hanger with small footprint. Doesn't tempt you to try and clip through the hanger hole
@jinhuayu4635 7 күн бұрын
中国大陆的不锈钢紧固件，排名第一是东明，第二是 奥展，也就是视频中出现的锚栓。 这两家的锚栓我都拉爆测试过。 质量都值得信赖
@mustansirhaji1468 8 күн бұрын
Need this.share contact details
@climbingtaiwan 7 күн бұрын
Hello. You can buy them directly through Taobao: 【淘宝】m.tb.cn/h.geb8i1jEGRJyAog?tk=Rv76Wwpu3jD 「攀岩登山可拆重复使用卸锚点可拆卸岩钉膨胀螺丝空调安装高空作业」If you need help acquiring them, PM us on our Instagram account.
@user-xg7bv6qy5f 11 күн бұрын
Awesome 👌 now all you need to do is outsource the manufacture to a "trusted" overseas (chinese) manufacturer which will no doubt increase the profit margin as it decreases the manufacturing costs. Of course the quality will still be the same.
@climbingtaiwan 8 күн бұрын
Hi. That's actually currently what we're doing 😃. We're looking into whether sourcing some components here in Taiwan and/or China is best. Sleeve anchors contain multiple parts, with the hex bolt being one of the most crucial parts. Things that get installed into the rock are viewed as more "permanent" and must be top-quality. A notable more amount of testing, batch recording, material analysis, etc will be going into any bolts we source for the public.
@Daveunruh 11 күн бұрын
There’s something beautiful about stainless steel.
@jmoneyband13st75 11 күн бұрын
I always try to tie off three times.
@loktom4068 11 күн бұрын
Actually, the installation exceeded the breakage of the actual hanger, as shown.
@mattking3852 11 күн бұрын
What bolt is that and what do you think about it?
@jinhuayu4635 11 күн бұрын
挂片和快拆是我朋友张焕强做的
@climbingtaiwan 8 күн бұрын
It's a sleeve bolt that can be bought from several Chinese companies. It's actually a mixture of components that could come from one or multiple manufacturers. What I mean is the hex cap bolts , sleeve, washer, and threaded cone could be from various sources and assembled together to make a sleeve bolt. So I wouldn't quite attribute a brand to them. However the hex cap bolt on them are clearly marked who manufactured them, one being Tong Hwei(Taiwan), and the other AoZhan(China).---Oh yeah, big brands do the same too, source parts from different places for their bolt.
@mattking3852 7 күн бұрын
@@climbingtaiwan You're saying Dewalt does this for their hex head Powers Sleeve bolts/
@climbingtaiwan 7 күн бұрын
@@mattking3852 I know for a fact the stainless steel DeWalt Power-Stud wedge bolts I have Chinese-made AoZhan nuts on them (their logo is 3 mountain peaks). As to where the threaded shaft + clip, and washer are coming from, I'm not sure. AoZhan is one of the largest steel fastener manufacturers in China though.
@mattking3852 6 күн бұрын
@@climbingtaiwan Im talking about the sleeved Power-Bolt from Dewalt. So I get it... Even American manufactures will use different parts from different countries including china. But how do we know that that the bolts are put under the same quality assurance in china as they are in the US?
@Elite-DrillMan69 12 күн бұрын
He would be bleeding so I think cap
@PrinsB 14 күн бұрын
Hey this cheap Chinese thing with written "25KN" on it can’t take an easy 45KN 😨 What a cheap and dangerous thing so Hail Capitalism, fuck Winnie Poo right? Meanwhile everything is produced in China but set together in your land for that mighty "MADE IN MY COUNTRY!!!"-Marketing Gag.
@Dubsteppah 13 күн бұрын
wow you're mad huh?
@payamn399 14 күн бұрын
Hi
@payamn399 14 күн бұрын
Can you tell me the size of this bolt?
@climbingtaiwan 14 күн бұрын
It's a 316 stainless steel Twist Bolt made by Bolt Products in Germany. They use 6mm rod. The final bolt has an 80mm leg and needs a 12mm wide hole.
@anthonymerlo6567 14 күн бұрын
Didn’t it nearly double the rating stamped on it? And the anchor didn’t fail. It didn’t perform well, but it held on
@williesnyder2899 15 күн бұрын
I saw my first little Made in France maillon rapide common steel “quick link” in a local hardware store around 1969. It became an absolute obsession to obtain “all” the sizes and shapes; some I’ve even used for practical purposes… The sizes in standard oval, long oval, triangle, rectangle, pear and trapezoid are available from really tiny to really BIG. Stainless, brass, carbon steel; all super cool designs!! Thanks for testing these Chinese cousins in 2024! Super strong!
@williesnyder2899 15 күн бұрын
Oh, and you can get 90 degree axis bent maillon rapides if you have a need. Oh, oh…also zinc-aluminum quick links. And…”delta” shape quick links; including zinc-alloy deltas… Obsession . . .
@climbingtaiwan 12 күн бұрын
Thanks for sharing your passion! Pretty cool 😃. I think there's something for everyone to suit their needs and circumstances. We're just trying to help link people up with acquiring it. Cheers!
@williesnyder2899 15 күн бұрын
I swear by the small Wichard forged spring latch snap hook which has held my keys to my belt for DECADES! Great little single-piece gate latch! I have long acquired a number of the asymmetrical shape Wichard snaps, in various sizes, such as you show. (I take it that your snaps are of a later make, but otherwise of the same basic characteristics.) Thanks for testing them!! A lot of sailors use that shape for harness & lanyard rigs; which seems a good idea. Torsion spring gate snaps are a model of functional simplicity; and in my case longevity!
@climbingtaiwan 12 күн бұрын
It's surprising how much design can influence quality and function, just simply by using the same raw material. We test different versions made by different manufacturers to learn what makes a particular style of design better than another. Then I'll either buy those, or see if I can get one manufactured based off what we've observed.
@williesnyder2899 15 күн бұрын
I obtained a very similar set up for free after a garage sale. It was some sort of ersatz tow strap with a bolt holding the overlap together. I repurposed it by removing the bolt, cutting out the “mortal injury,” fusing the frayed ends, and making a serviceable tie down for a picnic tarp or such light duty work. People are amazing…and very lucky! Thanks for your research!! You help folks to not off or maim themselves and their climbing partners!!
@climbingtaiwan 12 күн бұрын
Science is objective. It's nice to have data points, even if the tests may not apply to someone.
@kasparovhr1212 15 күн бұрын
So, 4 tonnes not enough for you?
@alexmorano3334 15 күн бұрын
Woah! Thats a game changer if they’re more affordable than a powersbolt
@ArtZ00 15 күн бұрын
Seems super good enough
@bmdhacks 15 күн бұрын
I watch this channel to find out what I'll equip my next route with. Your research and testing of Chinese hardware combined with Ryan's inventory and retail is making our local crags in the US so much better equipped.
@climbingtaiwan 15 күн бұрын
We have a lot more stuff currently in the works. We're rather picky with what we ship to their shop, and developing some products & weeding through already-made stuff takes time and money. It's also a bit of learning along the way for all of us. Ya think big companies wanna share all their trade-secrets and whatnot? 😆. Thanks for the positive words!
@kaitlynlsari681 15 күн бұрын
These little videos are really great, thanks for mucking around and testing, recording, editing and posting these tests, really appreciate it ❤👋 hi from central Otago southern New Zealand 👋🥝😄
@climbingtaiwan 15 күн бұрын
Thanks! It takes a lot to make them. It blew my mind when we got a taste of what HowNOT2 and Ryan does for his channel, so so much work. for the way it has evolved, it's helping us serve the climbing community in other unique ways. Cheers!
@ThongTran-fe4mu 16 күн бұрын
Tôi cần mua nó
@climbingtaiwan 16 күн бұрын
They are simple to make for this version. I am still improving the design. I will share more information in the future and testing. I can make them available for sale if people are interested and if I am pleased enough with the final design.
@ThongTran-fe4mu 16 күн бұрын
Tôi cần mua nó
@DuncanAtkinson 17 күн бұрын
Or..... Use a bolt hanger!
@DuncanAtkinson 17 күн бұрын
This must be a troll
@user-cz2db3go1y 17 күн бұрын
High grade chinesseum 😂
@QIANMU-FASTENERS-MANUFACTURER 18 күн бұрын
👍👍👍👍
@mutharhm8662 19 күн бұрын
There are 3 of failure state in anchor tension and shear force each. Tension-Steel tension failure/Pull out/Rock breaking out//Shear-Steel shear failure/Fly out/Rock breaking out. In most case, Steel failure needs most highest strength than others. And Pull out failure means wrong installation. These means that anchor strength totally defends on what kinds of rock it applied and how much deeply installed rock inside in tensioning state. Also force direction is important as well. Pure tension force of longitudinal direction of anchor that could help make sure how much it has. But in this video, that forces applied in various axis. That means that shows very different result every time. Because of tension/shear interaction. Typically shear strength is bigger than tension strength. So it is assumable to calculate 50% of tension strength for shear strength. considering interaction. In that case, Hilti HSA M6-40mm sleeved extension anchor has 9.5~10kN of ultimate tension strength and 6.8~7.6kN of shear. That means half of shear strength is more recommended in this case for safety. Enjoy your climbing.
@climbingtaiwan 19 күн бұрын
Thank you for sharing informative feedback.
@aussiviking604 20 күн бұрын
Nice death trap 👌
@Temporalus 20 күн бұрын
Cool technique! I woulda done that higher up or less slack, but nicely done.
@kyleboyd6026 20 күн бұрын
This is dumb. This isn't even close to a 10:1 safety ratio. I don't watch y'all's channel; but what is y'all's angle?
@climbingtaiwan 20 күн бұрын
We primarily test uncertified hardware that is meant for climbing/canyoning/rappelling/rope access applications... basically life support. Now and then, we get "viewer's requests" and homemade stuff we also test, just outta curiousity. Science is objective, deciding to use something in a particular scenario is subjective. And in this case and test, I'd say these are a bad idea to use for life support in this primitive design.
@ivolazarov774 20 күн бұрын
Bro why is it rated to 25 kN when it can easily handle 45 before deforming😭
@climbingtaiwan 20 күн бұрын
The plastic deformation of the quick link happens a lot lower, basically where it would be bent and either not properly function anymore, or exceed its deemed safety ratio. Basically, it's better to be more conservative when considering the overall strength of a product.
@ivolazarov774 20 күн бұрын
@@climbingtaiwan I understand how that works, I’m a materials scientist, but it clearly didn’t start yielding until it was well past 35 kN of force.
@johnmccarthy9529 20 күн бұрын
Wheres the eyelet of course its gonna split easier then it should. You might aswell not have filmed it ) there is ZERO information hear
@GiantMeteor2028 20 күн бұрын
Man thats sketchy throw up a route of those for a year and see the uv damage. I bet id whip it all the way to the ground. And if your cleaning pulling the rope through at the end would cause friction burning on the inside. Thanks for testing though.
@wiciuwiciu2783 20 күн бұрын
So it can hold yo mama
@geekswithfeet9137 21 күн бұрын
Hell no, I wouldn’t put my life on that. The 12mm maybe, but 10mm chrome plated chineseium is a no for me
@thecarpentergarden2943 14 күн бұрын
The rope is the weakest part to rock climbing for equipment
@centorossi46 21 күн бұрын
could you post a video on how to make this one?
@climbingtaiwan 20 күн бұрын
I can make a video. But I'd like to do some field testing first before I promote it's current design.
@MountainMullet 21 күн бұрын
good to see. I've gotten 16-18kN out of M6 bolts, they're surprisingly solid in tensile. Bit easy to bend though, so gotta make sure they're fully embedded
@climbingtaiwan 20 күн бұрын
Your feedback just gave me another idea on how to bump up the strength on these things 😁 while maintaining the same hole diameter. Time to play around with more variations.
@erikhartel456 21 күн бұрын
The hexcam held the whip so….trust the science?🤷🏻♂️
@ClimbingEasy 21 күн бұрын
Would not wip.
@theterrorwheel 21 күн бұрын
how is that ever going to happen once your weight is on the rope, fear mongering tastic
@climbingtaiwan 21 күн бұрын
I agree with you, it's not really going to happen once the rope is in the hooks and you're weighting the rope. Yet can you think of some scenarios where the rope can actually double-clip out of the hooks?🤔
@ladylamellae 21 күн бұрын
I mean, death is certainly one way to end an emergency...
@LeCaNiVideos 21 күн бұрын
Thank you! Great video. Though also a great example on where the music hurts the video more than it promotes it.
@climbingtaiwan 21 күн бұрын
Thanks for the feedback. I've lately just have gone musicless in pretty much all of our latest videos 😆, just easier that way to edit.
@minecraftbuilderify 21 күн бұрын
Webbing loses its strength when you have a hole or cut in it. Ideally you would have something going through the shackle to hold it to the rock not the actual webbing
@secretsquirrel6124 21 күн бұрын
304 stainless Steel is the lowest quality available
@climbingtaiwan 21 күн бұрын
What about the 200 series of stainless steel???
@Alan.Moffat 22 күн бұрын
Who came up with that? 😂😂😂 the death loop