So....drag link bushing was the probable cause?

Hey man I like the videos, wanting to try and reach out and see when and where you were planning on doing that overlanding trip in October. I wished I’d have grabbed your phone number from dirtfest lol

The top one couldn't make it through a pothole. Without locking in the front hubs😂😂😂😂😂😂

What are those wheels off of? They fit the look of the jeep

Chevy

Nope mud

Yeah!!! The Bull nose cammando!!!

Awesome build! Come on down to windrock!!

Thank you for the video I’m thinking I’m going to do an ls swap with the ax15 into my 68 jeepster after my 71 dodge dart big block swap

Can you give me the details about changing out the bullnose front end to a conventional Jeep front end

I'm with you. I love the look of the 72-73 Commando grill. I don't know how many times my jeep got mistaken for a Scout, Bronco then identified as a Jeep Commando.

Rental? You need to get your own so you can wreck it!

I have a 1972 commando and I want to take the bullnose off and replace it with a conventional Jeep front end do you know if this is possible?

Brother been pretty happy with the Speedhut Gauges? Issues? Problems? Inconsistency? 4" seems to be the max you can go unless you widen the hole?

Found that old Cherokee engine in my Scrambler😂

I have a couple questions..... When are you LS swapping yours? When are you making merch available?

Want a dash? I have an extra 70 jeepster dash

Did you have to do anything special with the steering or exhaust?

Thanks for Sharing. Sweet Ride. Love the LS. I have owned Jeeps for over 40 years. It is just in the Blood.

Oh man I need to get back to work on my Jeepster commando.

What better way to justify a budget for new parts

Is that a Bronco or Scout your working on? Definitely needs an alignment lol

First it is your Jeep! 2nd….It is Perfect. Love Everything about the Build. You Have Complimented & Enhanced a Classic Jeep. Great Job.

Do you have a link or specs on the struts

Ya oh that just looks bad.

It’s yours not there build I think it looks good and sure it’s practical you do you brother I like it

I think that comment was about ruining that unique one of a kind purple people eater XJ can’t even believe you would ruin such a classic!! 🤣🤣🤣

Just leave it original it doesn't need a winch

Lexus lfa, ferrari superfast

the sweet sweet sounds of smashing skid plates on those same rocks.

I can think of one, it’s orange…

Thanks for making another great video!

Uncle Stacy you’re famous!

🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥

If I'm not mistaken, lord knows I have been before, that blue commando ended up on its side in the mud. Quite unfortunate really. Think it came out alright though. Thanks for coming out and supporting Recoil Outdoor at our first big event. Look forward to future wheeling with yall.

Nice video. That was a great day of wheeling.

Do you have Casey's info? Would love to see more of his rig

Hell yea, pleasure meeting yall

Awesome video! Thanks for coming out and supporting our mission! Glad you had a good time 🤘🏻

It was cool to meet y’all at crossbar today, hope we get to do that overhanging trip in October, btw it’s me Chris with the desert tan Jeep TJ lol

Despite the epic failure that thing has such a good stance to it.

Your flashing lights look nice. So blessed to have your brother safe and sound!! “We trust your work.” One of Jarrod’s first comments 😂.

Wow! Drama!!😅

Great looking Jeep! Things rarely go to plan on a fresh build or maiden voyage? I’m about to build something similar with my CJ6 , stay safe on the trails 😊

Nice find! it has good exrerior steel. these bodies were heavily undercoated and usually lacking in rust that attacks the bed wall seams due to AMC-JEEP adding an inner bed wall in 1973-5. FSJ floors were optional. the warer comes in from holes in the plenum (open vent with grill at base of windshield) and the foot well vents fill with leaves which allows crud into the cab there too. if you want to avoid future floor rusting out as bad, try two things: 1) raise the outboard edge of your new floor, because the factory floor boards are angled to allow water to pool there inside the pinch weld. 2) do not install ANY floor mat or carpet over a painted floor. seamseal it and hercu-line it and then maybe you wont have insta-rust when your floor matting attracts moisture like a sponge. grills. 1963 to 69 Jeep trucks used the original "Rhino" or "Rhino Chaser" grill. i dont know why its called that. but thats what you have. Razor grills replaced the Rhino in 1970 through 1978 in trucks. 1978 they got the plastic grills and square headlights. Wagonner grills and Jtruck grills crossed over, henerally the Wag got grill updates more often, and had a plastic grid grill in 1974 or 5. fuel pump...you got it. ive found long cranking is required when the truck isnt run daily. i bypass and remove all the mecha fuel pumps on the Jeeps ive owned for at least a decade or two. i like electric inline pumps wired to the run circuit. you can prime the carb without cranking the motor. most Edelbrock 1405 and 1406 carbs are good, they still require rebuilds (cleaning out) about every six months even with a 5-micron filter for a 1994 GM V8 truck. Also...you might want to try a few things with your carb in Oklahoma: 1) install a heat insulating spacer between yiu carhnand intake. at the v ery least, the cellulose fiber one, i recommend a resin or hard plastic spacer...make sure they are flat on both sides or they will crack or leak. 2) install a stock steel filter with a bypass nipple for a return line. run the return line at the 12oclock position and the return line (and feed) AWAY from the exhaust system. it really helps fighting hot start issues, and vapor lock. 3) run a snorkle from tue core support to tue air filter housing, it may be sucking 120° exterior heat into the carb, but with no snorkle, its sucking 200° heat from the backside of the radiator, the exhaust manifolds, and the motor itself. that isnt ideal for running in hot weather. your TH400 is a Buick model. the internals are swappable between pretty much all TH400s, but the bellhousing is a bolt pattern exclusive to Buick. your Dana20 transfer case is the weak link if you drive like an idiot. they are NOT rated for abuse behind a built up V8. check Novak's website for more knowledge. they sell adapters for 20s, but most CJ trail guys i knew back in the 90s just recycled em. a couple ran warmed up 360 and 401s with Dana44s and 35inch tires...and stuff broke. the Buick V8 will NOT have hardened exhaust valve seats. it was designed in the era of high octane tetra-ethyl leaded gasoline at around 97octane. running low octane gas at high RPM will wear out that engine. your axles and brakes are about the most undesirable hardware on the truck. They were closed-knuckle Dana44 fronts until 1974 or 5. the wheel stud pattern was also upgraded then, to six studs. trying to find good drums in general (and specifically hardware) for Jeep truck drum brake axles was a pain 10 years ago with my buddy's 1973 J3000...same axles and brakes you got. we had to use 1970s Dodge brake parts kits. I dont recall parts numbers. plan on getting the wrong parts multiple times. most Chinese parts are notmthe correct specs for Jeep trucks. I'd convert to disks if possible. swapping on newer model (73-87) J-truck axles wont be easy due to spring differences and perch type/locations. Forget Wagoneer axles...they are 6 inches narrower. ScotchBright - is used professionally to SCUFF the surface of paint to allow new primer and paint to adhere. you dont buff anything out with ScotchBright. the best results i ever got on old paint was using a wet Cotton T-shirt and just rubbing the paint down (using some force). the cotton is finely abbrasive - like way nicer to the old paint than ScotchBright or metalic scouring pads. it removes the oxidized paint and polishes whats beneath. Avoid microfiber towels...they are polyesrer and dont have any tooth. good luck!

Cherokee? Where?

Another comment or 2. Big believer of using a Power Bleeder for solo bleeding. Brakes in general are the easiest (maybe should clarify "disc brakes") to DIY. Drums. Not as much fun but doable. Love the "Wrench or Wallet" motto!

Yep. Your points of paint / vs powder coat etc. etc. are solid. Unless someone is building a show vehicle why would you powder coat the underside? Paint then use the dang thing then touch up as needed. Rinse and repeat!

Thanks for the alignment explanation