19 сағат бұрын
14 күн бұрын
21 күн бұрын
28 күн бұрын
2 ай бұрын
4 ай бұрын
5 ай бұрын
Пікірлер
@RodmanRodman-ku3fz 11 сағат бұрын
Thanks boss
@timmi511 2 күн бұрын
Number 12: Timing chain issue.
@tylarbr33z39 5 күн бұрын
Thank you very much for this information this is what I have been struggling with
@MikeKollin 5 күн бұрын
My former mechanic who totally messed with my car. Told me 'I had a completely blown head gasket because there was oil in the coolant resovoir... and that I need to replace the engine immediately that week." i later caught him lowering my tired pressure down to 18 pounds each tire. I just set it the night before to 32 pounds each. I also caught him under my hood when I didnt' ask him to work on my car and found my valve cover bolts were all loosened. He put fresh oil in the air intake next to the air filter, loosened the bolts to my oil pan and a few other things I fixed. #1 I just had the entire car inspected at an inspection center. So the week before I checked the bolts on everything to make sure everything was snug etc... oh he also loosened "ALL" the bolts on the fender to which I also checked the week before and they were all tight... not to mention I just got my car back from a fender bender to which they had to replace fenders, bumper etc. so I know the bolts were tight... #2 Here's the deal, the car ran great. I mean before he messed with it and also after I cleaned it all up, he put oil in the throttle body and MAF Sensor.. So once I cleaned all this up, tighten up the valve cover, oh to which I just replaced the month before, I mean the gasket, I set tire pressure correctly tighten up oil pan bolts etc. etc... it ran like a champion again... #3 I took it to another mechanic who checked my car out for any signs of a blown gasket and said, "Other than someone pouring oil into your overflow container, there's nothing wrong with your car." He drove it also and said it has full power, which it still does 3 years later.. I've cleaned out the resovoir yet oil still comes back. I am wondering if maybe he poured it into the radiator as well... cuz it still runs strong. #4 I had the engine rebuilt 5 years before he touched it.... P.s. it has never over heated. WE put on the colder thermostat so it never even hits the 1/2 way mark. #5 I have no brown sludge in the radiator at all. It's green fluid like it came. No crank case milkshake either.... no blue smoke or any abnormal smoke out the back either...
@MechanicalBoost 5 күн бұрын
Good Job
@leticiawingartner2770 6 күн бұрын
My engine light went on over a year ago and I did'nt want to deal with it then . I was out of town and it happen in parking lot went to start Vechile and it startrd and it turned off it would turn over and then just turn off..... I regret it now stupid move cost me $500 dollars to have it towed back home.
@MechanicalBoost 5 күн бұрын
Therefore, it is always recommended to contact a professional mechanic as your vehicle starts to produce even minor problems... If you ignore minor issues, they may become bigger over time and cause costly repair.
@johnheywood9826 7 күн бұрын
Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve. PCV Valve.
@jtjimenez05 10 күн бұрын
Can you go on limp mode without check engine light?
@MechanicalBoost 9 күн бұрын
Yes, it is possible for a car to enter limp mode without the check engine light illuminating. Limp mode is a protective measure designed to prevent further damage to the engine or transmission when a fault is detected.
@jtjimenez05 8 күн бұрын
@MechanicalBoost how do I know if I'm on limp mode?
@chokethewoke746 11 күн бұрын
So it's better to drive it harder and faster?
@MechanicalBoost 9 күн бұрын
No, it is not better to drive your car harder and faster with a bad PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve. Driving aggressively with a malfunctioning PCV valve can exacerbate the problem and potentially cause more serious damage to your engine. A bad PCV valve can cause increased pressure in the crankcase. Driving harder increases this pressure even more, which can lead to oil leaks, blown seals, or gaskets.
@chokethewoke746 9 күн бұрын
@@MechanicalBoost OK thank's for the reply, I have a 2011 VE it's done 161000kms I don't drive it hard at all.
@almondmery6946 12 күн бұрын
THANK YOU SO MUCH ☺️
@josemanuelvelarde5861 14 күн бұрын
Nice video
@vlad7160 14 күн бұрын
Who’s is300 is that
@blizzbee 16 күн бұрын
So.. the recommended videos to watch next already cover most of the screen -*-
@HenryTimbie 18 күн бұрын
Step helpful. Thanks
@Darren...son4634 18 күн бұрын
Carburettor motor for me
@4-LIFE-kt4fx 19 күн бұрын
Good content , however not sure why using brake fluid reservoirs in few clips to example coolant tank
@ronaldwilliams9635 23 күн бұрын
My engine only knocks when driving but then goes away, what could that mean?
@MechanicalBoost 22 күн бұрын
If the knocking occurs only during driving and then goes away, it could be related to specific conditions such as load, engine speed, or temperature. Here are some potential causes 1) Low-Quality Fuel 2) Carbon deposits on the combustion chamber walls or piston tops 3) Incorrect Ignition Timing 4) Lean Air-Fuel Mixture 5) Faulty Knock Sensor 6) EGR System Issues 7) Old or Worn Spark Plugs
@tabyrearl7833 24 күн бұрын
I have only four out of the 10 symptoms, 2016 nissan frontier, it doesnt go fast like it did, sluggish exceleration, high fuel consumption, thats the main things . About two years ago i smelled sulfur for a while and i saw smoke come out tail a few times,. I may have smelled sulfer only a few times the past year. I took it in for a battery in 2023 when this started and they told me i need my fuel injection service and replaced spark plugs. I hope its not the CC thats a 2,000$ part. But im worried is the sulfur smell mean its only the CC. Thankyou.... I goggled what else can smell like sulfur, it said CC, Fuel filter, fuel pressure sensor. So I'm thinking it's the fuel injection, like the man said at viking automotive.
@AMCMailMan 21 күн бұрын
Yeah cc can have a bad smell im getting mine fixed now. Hopefully that’s the issue im getting sparks coils done too
@tylerr5357 24 күн бұрын
I have 6. It’s a loud rattling noise almost reminds me of metal pot lids rattling together.
@MechanicalBoost 22 күн бұрын
Inspect your catalytic converter and change it
@danielfiore8865 26 күн бұрын
What a difference a valve makes. game changer.
@tomjones2348 4 күн бұрын
I'm getting ready to change mine now.
@Viatko1079 28 күн бұрын
Perfect thank u so much saved my car and 1700 dollars just watching ur video i reaearched my oil coolant mixing issue and thought for sure it was a head gasket . After research and contacted 3 diff mechanics i figured out who was honest and told me it was minor oil cooler issue . Please get second opinion on any major issue w ur car u be amazed how much stress and money u can save .
@samisulaiman7967 Ай бұрын
thanks for explaining I have a Suburban 2012 it shut down in the road when I made OBD test it gave multiple codes one of them U0073 data bus comunication , P069E fuel pump module control - Mil activation requested , P2635 fuel pump low performance , P0108B fuel pressure sensor B and of course the delay start engine my question where is the fuel valve regulator in Suburban 2012 shuold I replace it , is the fuel pump is broken and need to be replaced or updating online Or I have to fix the bus comunication Bus before to solve the problem thanks in advance .
@MechanicalBoost 25 күн бұрын
Given the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) you received for your 2012 Chevrolet Suburban, it's clear that there are multiple issues that need addressing. 1) Address the Communication Bus Issue (U0073) i) Inspect the wiring and connectors for the communication bus. Look for signs of damage, corrosion, or loose connections. ii) Check for any aftermarket accessories or modifications that might interfere with the communication bus. iii) If the wiring and connectors appear intact, the issue might lie with one of the control modules. Diagnosing this will require a deeper scan and possibly replacement of the faulty module. 2. Fuel System Inspection (P069E, P2635, P0108B) i) Fuel Pressure Regulator and Sensor: The fuel pressure regulator in the 2012 Suburban is typically located near the fuel rail or within the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank. Given the codes, it is important to inspect the fuel pressure sensor and regulator for proper operation. Replace the fuel pressure sensor if it's found to be faulty. ii) Fuel Pump: Given the P2635 code indicating low performance, the fuel pump may indeed be failing and may need to be replaced. Before replacement, check the fuel filter to ensure it is not clogged, as this could also cause low fuel flow. iii) Fuel Pump Control Module: Check the wiring and connectors to the fuel pump control module. Ensure there are no loose or corroded connections. If the module itself is faulty, it will need to be replaced. An update or reprogramming of the module might also be necessary, which can typically be done at a dealership or an authorized service center. Due to the complexity of these issues, particularly the communication bus problem, it might be beneficial to have a professional mechanic perform a thorough diagnostic. They can use advanced tools to pinpoint the exact cause and recommend appropriate fixes.
@samisulaiman7967 8 күн бұрын
@@MechanicalBoost thanks
@Unitedgarage Ай бұрын
Thanks
@ninjanix7288 Ай бұрын
I had all symptoms of this video on my 99 LS Integra 😢 changed out the PCC valve today car runs waaaaaay better🙌🏻 🤩
@ginoasci2876 Ай бұрын
What would cause a new motorcycle engine with only 1900 miles knock as it’s warming up, and stop knocking when it’s warmed up? What if this engine has a little too much motor oil ?
@MechanicalBoost Ай бұрын
It may cause because of different causes such as: 1) Piston Slap: This is a common cause of knocking noises in cold engines. When the engine is cold, the pistons may be slightly loose in the cylinder bores. As the engine warms up, the pistons expand and fit more snugly, reducing or eliminating the knocking noise. 2) Oil Viscosity: If the engine oil is too thick (high viscosity) when cold, it may not flow as easily, leading to less effective lubrication of engine components and resulting in knocking sounds. As the oil warms up, it thins out and flows more freely, providing better lubrication and reducing noise. 3) Valve Clearance: Cold engines may have larger valve clearances due to metal contraction. This can cause the valves to make a knocking or tapping sound. As the engine warms up, the metal expands, and the valve clearances become tighter, reducing the noise. 4) Cam Chain Tensioner: Some motorcycles have automatic cam chain tensioners that adjust the tension as the engine warms up. If the tensioner is not working correctly when cold, it can cause a knocking noise that goes away once the engine is warm and the tensioner has adjusted. 5) Cold Engine Combustion: When an engine is cold, the combustion process is not as efficient, which can sometimes cause knocking or pinging sounds. This typically resolves as the engine reaches operating temperature and combustion becomes more efficient. 6) Fuel Quality: Poor quality or incorrect octane fuel can cause pre-ignition or knocking, particularly when the engine is cold. Once the engine is warm, it may run more smoothly and the knocking may diminish. 7) Break-in Period: Even though 1900 miles is a significant amount for a break-in period, some engines might still be settling. Slight variations in engine component fit and wear-in can cause temporary noises that disappear as the engine parts finish settling into their final operating conditions.
@ginoasci2876 Ай бұрын
@@MechanicalBoost : : you’re good ! I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to put all that down and sending it. Thank you. Out of those seven, at this point and given that the engine is so new, I’d suspect oil quality and fuel quality. I could be they the fuel is not of good quality. I did notice that the gas was really white or clear. This could be it. I’m going to suck it all out and replace it tomorrow. For the oil, Triumph recommends Castrol. So I’ll Che l with the dealer that did the oil change. I’m really hoping it’s the gas. The cold engine, valve clearances, piston slap, and cam tensioner definitely sound like possible causes, but I’m going with the simple possibilities first. Gas and oil. I will say this……there was about two gallons of fuel in the tank, and I added one gallon of 93 octane to see if it made a difference. Not noticeable. I’d go pump it out right now, but it’s 10pm. Thanks again.
@ginoasci2876 27 күн бұрын
@@MechanicalBoost: was not the fuel. The engine is mapped at the factory. Is it possible for that mapping to become corrupt? or partially corrupt? or just enough to cause knocking? or knocking during warm up? or knocking during warm up and then continue but not as bad?
@macstorm2234 Ай бұрын
what is the green pipe shooting
@El_LeChErO91 Ай бұрын
Ontop of oil disappearing no leaks or smoke out the back, would the inside of my car smell like exhaust when i use the ac or heater? I checked exhaust manifold and followed the exhaust system and no leaks.
@MechanicalBoost 25 күн бұрын
Given the combination of symptoms, it is crucial to address both the oil consumption and the exhaust smell promptly. The exhaust smell inside the cabin is particularly concerning due to the potential for harmful fumes. 1) Check for Internal Oil Leaks: i) Compression Test: Perform a compression test to check for worn piston rings or cylinder walls. ii) PCV Valve: Inspect and replace the PCV valve if necessary. Inspect the Exhaust System: iii) Visual Inspection: Perform a thorough visual inspection of the exhaust manifold, gaskets, and the entire exhaust system for any signs of leaks. iv) Smoke Test: A smoke test can help identify small leaks in the exhaust system that might not be visible. 2) Examine the HVAC System: i) Inspect Blower Motor and Housing: Ensure the blower motor and its housing are free from damage and properly sealed. ii) Cabin Air Filter: Replace the cabin air filter if it’s dirty or improperly installed.
@dilipkdkmanawgan5138 Ай бұрын
Thz you So much from Myanmar
@raz2083 Ай бұрын
I got the egr error code and my car is shaking like crazy when its idle but i took put the egr valve amd cleaned it (it already looked pretty clean) but that didn't help. Any suggestions. I have a 2010 belta/yaris.
@Metroooo_ Ай бұрын
My mustang made rattling noises out of nowhere with me cruising like 45 and hasn’t stopped also check engine light came and the 02 sensor code came up and failed emissions is that catalyst failure ?
@MechanicalBoost Ай бұрын
It's possible that the rattling noise and the check engine light indicating an O2 sensor code are related, but it doesn't necessarily mean it's a catalyst failure. Rattling noises could be caused by various issues such as loose parts, exhaust system problems, or engine issues. The O2 sensor code could indicate a problem with the oxygen sensor itself, or it could be a symptom of another issue affecting the air-fuel mixture or exhaust system. A failing catalyst can sometimes trigger O2 sensor codes, but it's not the only possibility.
@amrinderbhullar166 Ай бұрын
Does bad cat make rattling sound(just like an engine without engine oil sound) cause i was in montreal and my car made very weird rattling noises just like i mentioned before whenever i go uphill or start moving after a stop the rattling sound was there and also sometimes my low engine fuel light comes on sometimes but next day when i went to my car mechanic he said oil level is normal and the car is not burning any engine oil.
@MechanicalBoost Ай бұрын
Yes, a bad catalytic converter can sometimes make a rattling sound, similar to the sound of an engine lacking oil. This typically occurs when the internal components of the catalytic converter become damaged or loose. The rattling noise may be more pronounced during acceleration or when the vehicle is idling.
@amrinderbhullar166 Ай бұрын
@@MechanicalBoost hey i really appreciate the reply but i have another question adding to my first one that so whenever that sound comes sometimes the low engine oil symbol also lit up for 1 sec not ever-time but lets say 5 out of 2 times but my car’s engine oil level (was-is) normal and it is also not burning any oil
@1GQ_gent Ай бұрын
This is excellent information. I appreciate it. I am planning on replacing 1-5 & 10
@Bob-gn8ph Ай бұрын
Thanks ❤John 3,16 ❤
@MustangGuru Ай бұрын
The same people whom made it mandatory for converters on cars are the same scammers who say cows are polluting more than cars.
@MustangGuru Ай бұрын
I call Bs on the converters, cars can be tuned to have equal to or better output as a converter, However, the additives being mix in gas cause a concern, Gasoline of today is no where near as clean as it was 30yrs ago.
@charlieallisoni7270 Ай бұрын
Where is the pcm located in a 2012 ford F150
@MechanicalBoost Ай бұрын
In a 2012 Ford F-150, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) is typically located under the hood, near the engine compartment. It is often positioned on the firewall, on the passenger side of the vehicle. However, it's always a good idea to consult the vehicle's manual or a repair guide for the exact location, as it can vary slightly depending on the specific model and configuration of the truck.
@guyelsenburg9196 Ай бұрын
Would a broken catalytic converter cause a car to stop all acceleration responses and i am having tontake my foot off the pedal and downshift then the power kicks back in hard and then goos good again but randomly do it over again (think my catalytic is damaged because my exhaust is rattling at low rpms and at idle itbget a random exhaust rattle
@MechanicalBoost Ай бұрын
A broken catalytic converter could potentially cause issues with acceleration, but it wouldn't necessarily stop all acceleration responses on its own.
@bobbystereo936 6 күн бұрын
@@MechanicalBoostI have the same problem. 1st & 2nd gear struggle but everything goes back to normal the more I drive.
@MechanicalBoost 5 күн бұрын
@@bobbystereo936 If your car struggles in 1st and 2nd gear but runs smoothly as you drive more, there could be several potential causes: such as Transmission Fluid Issues: Low or dirty transmission fluid can cause shifting problems, especially when the car is cold. As the car warms up, the fluid becomes more effective, which might explain why the problem diminishes. Clutch Problems (Manual Transmission): If your car has a manual transmission, the clutch might be slipping or not engaging properly in the lower gears. This can be due to wear and tear or issues with the clutch hydraulic system. Transmission Control Module (Automatic Transmission): The transmission control module might have issues, causing improper shifting in lower gears. As the car warms up, the module might function better. Engine Performance Issues: Problems with engine performance, such as issues with the fuel system, ignition system, or air intake, can cause poor performance in lower gears. Vacuum Leaks: Vacuum leaks can cause erratic behavior in the engine and transmission, particularly when the engine is cold. Cold Engine: When the engine is cold, it might not run as smoothly as when it warms up. This can affect the performance of the car in lower gears. Transmission Wear and Tear: General wear and tear of the transmission components can cause issues in the lower gears. As the car warms up, the parts might expand slightly and function better.
@bobbystereo936 4 күн бұрын
@@MechanicalBoost Funny you mention that! I recently had the water pump fixed & It looked like antifreeze was leaking outta that transmission box or gear box or whatever that is?
@CompaAlex310 Ай бұрын
Yeah I have 2018 Q50s 3.0t and I recently replaced the the pedal sensor and the two throttle body’s and still nothing 😔
@iHeAdSh0T13 Ай бұрын
Whats going on with your q50 bro
@CompaAlex310 Ай бұрын
@@iHeAdSh0T13 it still won’t accelerate it does and everything when it’s cold but once it’s start getting warm it goes out and it won’t accelerate or nothing
@CompaAlex310 Ай бұрын
I’m taking it to the shop to put the big scanner on it
@ProdByKeys Ай бұрын
Have you done an idle relearn procedure on it? You can replace throttle body and pedal position sensor all you want , but if you don’t do the idle relearn afterwards, you’re going nowhere fast (literally and metaphorically lol) because you essentially haven’t programmed that new TB or pedal sensor to the ECU
@buttstinkman5983 2 ай бұрын
I had a check engine light on my car, it was scanned for a bad catalytic converter. I don't have any of the severe symptoms other than the light, how bad is the risk to drive halfway across America?
@MechanicalBoost 2 ай бұрын
If your car's diagnostic scan indicates a faulty catalytic converter but you aren't experiencing any severe symptoms such as significant loss of power, unusual noises, or excessive emissions, it's possible that the issue might not be immediately critical. However, driving long distances with a potentially malfunctioning catalytic converter can still pose some risks. Depending on local regulations, driving with a malfunctioning catalytic converter could result in fines or legal consequences, especially if your vehicle fails emissions tests.
@brado9232 2 ай бұрын
✌️ *promosm*
@agamurtuza8963 2 ай бұрын
Best video and information. Thanks
@anapungescu2507 2 ай бұрын
dafuq is with these random videos.... you could have put a list...
@davidorganism6064 2 ай бұрын
Got sorted on my w213 today, had a couple of symptoms what you mentioned on this clip. Thanks for information
@marccoulson8997 2 ай бұрын
Why is he putting in a timing chain when talking about a faulty coil?
@Nur_Md._Mohiuddin_Chy._Toha 2 ай бұрын
👍👍👍👍👍
@barenekid9695 2 ай бұрын
drivel
@koiandpredatorsuk 2 ай бұрын
Fantastic video. Thanks 👍👌 very very helpful
@PappyNet01 2 ай бұрын
The only symptoms I experienced, thus far on my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 was the loud noise and the check engine light flashed on Sunday, April 07, 2024, I disconnect my battery cable for a period of time to reset the PCM/ECM, before reconnecting my battery cables - I give it the "Frankenstein Contact" by closing the circuit by touch the positive and negative battery cables together for a few seconds. I start the engine the "check engine" light is gone and the metal rattling noise is once again prevalent. Saturday, April 06, 2024, I visit a local gas station, pour approximately ten-(10) ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil into my fuel tank, top-off my fuel tank with fresh gasoline and depart town heading north to Crestview, so I could speedup the RPMs for a consistent period of time for approximately 30-mins each way. I return home and the metal rattling noise seems to be all gone. On Tuesday, April 02, 2024, I am driving around town on a mission for my parent's either repair the electrical cord on their clothes washing machine or find good sales on a new clothes washing machine [Home DIY Projects beget more Home DIY Projects]. Suddenly, the check engine light appeared on the control display, so I immediately stopped by the O'Reilly's Auto Parts Store [other side of town] and requested a OBDII scan: the Sales Tech stated the device identified DTC P0420, Repair Cylinder Head Ground Wire, Primary DTC Three-Way Catalyst (TWS) System Low Efficiency. I visited the closest garage whom I used in 2019 to warranty my Interstate Battery. This shop informed me that the DTC P0420 is a like "detectives clue" it could be a bad catalytic converter [I was shocked he said my truck has four-(4) catalytic converters] or a handful of other parts in the exhaust/muffler system. During our conversation I asked for the worst repair - if I were to replace the whole exhaust/muffler system - it would cost ~ $3000.00! I inquired if he could just cut-out the catalytic converter [he replied by law the shops in Florida cannot remove catalytic converters [Huh?]. I muttered that I haven't driven my truck more than 500-miles per year for the last seven-(7) years. He responded that check engine light is just a "Warning" and since I drive very little he said I might get two-(2) more years of driving before the warning becomes a real problem. On Monday, April 01, 2024, the noise was nearly gone with intermittent rattling, so I stopped by the local O'Reilly's Auto Parts Store [my side of town] and requested a OBDII scan: the Sales Tech stated stated "No Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) were identified by their device. Prior to Sunday March 31, 2024, I just don't know what the source of my mystery noise in my 2005 GMC Sierra 1500 VHO: the last six-(6) years has been rough on my truck and life has been even tougher on our family. Mystery Metal Rattling Noise. On Sunday, March 31, 2024, I poured 10-ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil into the engine oil crankcase and the noise was much quieter On Saturday, March 30, 2024, while using a rubber mallet I tapped along the Catalytic Converters and Exhaust Pipes and could not see any movement, and the echo did not sound like the metal rattling noise. On Monday, March 25, 2024, I started the engine and listened to the rattling noise from underneath the truck, poured twelve ounces -(12-oz) of Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine oil crankcase and pressed the gas pedal down and it subdued the metal rattling noise, but did not eliminate it. This mystery noise problem occurred when my truck was in the local garage service. The Chief Master Mechanic [Brian] is awesome - he is a honest broker and takes on all jobs: I just wish I met him 10 years ago when I returned home to help my parents. The last few years either my truck or my parent's 1997 Monte Carlo LS 3100 was in his garage: I just swapped vehicles after repair and service jobs. For nearly 2-years one of our vehicles was in the garage. On Saturday, March 23, 2024, I retrieved my truck from Brian and he mentioned the mystery noise, but he wasn't sure of the cause. On Friday, February 02, 2024, Brian was ready to move the truck outside of the garage because he fixed the water leak problem, but the engine would not start. Brian telephoned me if I had a spare ignition key to bring to him because the ignition cylinder would not move or start the engine. None of my ignition keys would turn and start the engine. I visited a local locksmith and they made a new key from the GM Key Code - the new key ($25.00) would not start the engine. After searching the internet and learning that the GM Key Ignition Cylinder problem happens a lot to truck owners and conversing with Brian we decided that I need a new Ignition Key Cylinder. Brian successfully removed the original ignition key cylinder and installed the new ignition key cylinder: the key turned and the engine started then the mystery noise. The past four and one-half years I had water leaking into the passenger cab space from the third brake light, the cabin pressure vents and the rear windshield. After waiting for a couple of heavy rain showers I was confident and happy because Brian indeed fixed all of the leaks. I visited a Auto Body shop in Pensacola, Florida ~ 55 miles west from my home and replaced the headliner in June 2023 and within 2 weeks I had water leaking into the front passenger side - the floorboard was SOAKED. I returned to Brian and he fixed this fourth leak too [the sunroof drain tubes were cracked wide open].
@VidVidavid-666 2 ай бұрын
When braking details circulation works forever
@oluwatosinadeniye229 2 ай бұрын
Please i noticed my car is misfiring, white smoke from the exhaust, and shorten of engine oil. Imagine 5ltr of engine oil cant take me for 1week
@MechanicalBoost 2 ай бұрын
Experiencing misfiring, white smoke from the exhaust, and a sudden decrease in engine oil levels can be concerning issues, often indicating underlying problems with your vehicle. The issue may be a Leaking Head Gasket, Coolant Leak, Failed Piston Rings, Cylinder Head or Engine Block Cracks, clogged PCV valve or breather hose. It is recommended to have your vehicle inspected by a qualified mechanic as soon as possible.
@PeterHernandez-lg2eh 2 ай бұрын
Po302 ???
@MechanicalBoost Ай бұрын
Explain your question