What would you charge for this sort of job? Debating if I aught to try my first attempt at circuit soldering on this...

Good video and cool explanation

Hey Joe That turntable you use for units you work on did you build it your self or buy it and where did you get it?

thanks mate great video

Extremely helpful, Thank you, as I am working on my 1050. My relay takes about 8 seconds to click when I first turn it on. It sounds fine though, pots need to be cleaned. Thanks again for a great video.

I replaced the 10uF capacitor and it's getting cooler but my fan is still dead 😢 any ideas?

I have 2 of the insulated ones that open from the top. Both stopped working in 3 weeks. The fans dont turn, but the light goes on. Could it just be a fan?

Thanks, I'm building up the courage to take another crack at fixing my AU222 with stereo issues across all channels. Voltage and resistance checks tonight. Thanks for the video, particularly setting bias using multimeter

I have the identical amp which I just refreshed… caps, micas, etc. However, you have a film cap sitting on top of each large capacitor. My amp doesn’t have those. Can you elaborate a bit?

Currently looking for a shop to clean mine its got scratchy volume controls

Just found one of these in my uncle basement. Left channel seems to have an issue. It sometimes distorts with static as if it’s shorting out. A few missing knobs and the mute even work. Are these expensive to fix?

I'm always amazed at how long you leave a device switched on despite a short circuit. OK, currents and voltages are lower when a light bulb is connected in between, but a short circuit is a short circuit.

i would like to speak to you to find out if i could send you my pioneer CT f50 tape deck to have the belts changed thank you if you can let me know i would really appeache that

You really need to speak up it was extremely difficult to hear your voice.

Hi Joe, I have this same Wave Music System that skips when I try to play CD's. I clean the CD player several times before but it does not fix the skipping. So I think it is the bad capacitors as you said for my device is well over 20 years old. If I were to have someone change all the capacitors, what would be the cost to have it fixed? Thanks for shoring the video what the inside looks like and how to fix it. I don't have the capacity to fix mine. Could you repair mine? Thanks!

I have a cheap Walmart or autozone multimeter right now. I really need to invest in a good fluke meter amongst other stuff like a dim bulb tester, tone generator, oscillator. I'm dealing with dead channels on various amps/receivers, ect. What would be my first good purchase? If it's a multimeter which model do you recommend?

Awesome 😎 video ..I have two 2️⃣ that’s needs restoration 😢

Hello, I just did the bias adjustment on my 1050. I only have a DMM. I set the meter to read amps and set .05 amps on both channels for what I assumed was the correct reading translated for 50miliamps. Is this correct? I ask because the left right balance is better and got ride of static and dropouts, but now is almost flat or anemic sounding, and vocals disappear weirdly in the center on some songs. Sounds like maybe some distortion and folding in on itself as well. If I wanted to measure via the emitter resistors where are they on the pcb layout and what leads to I measure? It’s hard to see in your video. Thanks!

Is there a schematic for those modules?

Great video! I believe you have just solved the mystery of our 17 yr. old Bose Wave system CD skipping after many try’s with a CD cleaner disc. Thanks!

I have a more than a few vintage receivers. I chose to focus on my Hitachi's: two SR-903's, an SR-804, and an SR-503L. Three of them are near mint and had work done prior to local purchasing. None of them cost me more than $150. Still have one Yamaha CR-420, a nice little receiver in mint condition...but I prefer the sound, quality and look of my 503L. In terms of build quality and internal components, the Hitachi's are exceptional. The small 503L is my desktop receiver for my office and was purchased from someone who had this gem fully revised. Looks like new. I think that one set me back $150...what a deal! One SR-903 was also revised and in near mint condition...that one sits in the family room. The Class G on the larger receivers was a bit of a challenge to master, but there is sufficient info on audiokarma to follow. I like working on them; all of the boards are printed with the component designations...making things much easier to follow against the relatively good repair schematics. I have one SR-903 which I have begun a recap along with changing out known "problem" transistors...before there is a major problem. I did do LED conversions on two of the units and maintain my 503L and the one 903 as "daily drivers". The repair hobby is quite fun and interesting...and enjoying these vintage receivers is icing on the cake.

Someone threw out a collector’s Monster Energy Mini Fridge and I picked it up for free. Has the blinking green light and fan wanting to kick on but doesn’t. Checked prices on eBay for what they were selling for and it’s around $500!!! If this capacitor fixes the issue I’m making a few quick hundred dollars by reselling it.

So what’s the fix?

One of the best repair channels because the way you walk us true the process and grate camra set up

Sound Test ?

Oof, I am a very young teen and I was hoping for a simple reason where you don’t have to take the fridge apart. At least I know how to fix it! Sadly I can’t because I am missing some of the tools and even if I had the, then my parents wouldn’t let me hehe. Maybe dad would do it. Idk! Thanks!

That quick-connect looks like it's on borrowed time.

Not a tech friendly unit, for sure.

you are an inspiration senior. Long live and stay blessed, From Thailand

High percentage of failing caps in Yamaha. I replaced all capacitors in my CA-1010 and low hfe 2SC1213A as well and mine work great after. Nice video, thanks!

That one just takes too long.. i guess I'll stick with easier to work on models. Nice job Joe !!

Excelente trabajo!

I think I've seen all of your videos. I worked on copiers for 40 years and I've had some major repairs but this Yamaha looks like an absolute nightmare to work on. That's why the world needs people like you!

Hey joe could you provide a link or name of seller you got the discrete replacements from? I have found some on various places on eBay but they’re the ones you have to build yourself and I would rather get a set that are already made and done professionally like the ones in your video for my pioneer 780. If you could let me know I would appreciate it

Yes, you have made me re-think about possible projects as a hobbyist . Sometimes better left to those who have the coconut to fix them. Nice training vid. Thank you.

Great job Joe! I'm very happy that the humming noise was fixed with replacing caps on power board. No more humming noise. Very clean nice sounding receiver now. Thanks again!

Wow. That whole receiver is a big fat disaster. It could be really nice though.

There are service bulletins for the CR-2020 capacitor board, check it out while you have it apart. GL!

Good to see a new video Joe! Great work as usual.Those monster receivers have got to be a challenge to work on. Complicated as hell. I've learned a lot from you already such as setting the bias, DC offset, and power meter calibration. Don't worry about making the videos too long and fast forwarding and skipping shots. .The longer the better when you are trying to learn this stuff. Thanks for all you do.

Ya, I find that heat will cook those E-caps every time. What a monster unit. I'm starting to figure out your in circuit cap test - it's just a resistance test at some frequency? Nice find on those issues. The dental picks are great, I get the good ones from my dentist when they are done with them. EDIT: If there's no hole in the pots or I can't get to the hole, I take a small drill bit and hand drill a hole - you can keep the plastic shavings up in the drill if you're careful. EDIT02: I like your videos for some reason. I think it's your easy manner, you're not shouting and you show little mistakes that always happen. Well done.

I've got many vintage receivers in my collection but don't have nor do I ever desire owning a monster receiver.Nope.Nadda.Zip.Zilch.Zero on that!!

That long shaft is there for a good reason. That's in the phono stage, very low signal level, so they keep the switch as close to the inputs as possible to avoid any noise picked up by long wires.

Great video. Got this KA5700 and a KA3500. I bought them both NEW.....waaay back.....!

Gran descubrimiento el error de J722 & J724 - J722 & J728!!! 🎉🎉🎉 Voy por un Marantz 2230 espero no tener sorpresas! Gracias por el video!

Same issues with my mini fridge, and its one of them Call of dudty warzone ones, distributed by Orbit Inovations LLC, so it has one slight difference and that is that mine only has one electrical, 2 prong, port, 120V AC; would everything i saw in your video still apply to mine?

I'm so dumb bro. I thought if I turned it off and unplugged it it would be safe. I just shocked my hand super bad.

As a tech very experienced with Pioneer and these models myself I wanted to point out some stuff. One of the things ive seen here and units i get that have been worked on that a lot of techs overlook is the small signal transistor issues these pioneer units have. The differential pairs on the amp side are known for issues as well as the phono, line, and tone stages. All those small TO-92 guys that have black oxidized leads often develop hiss and crackling and are in actuality more important to change than even most of the electrolytic capacitors. I especially find these become noisy in the phono stage being they are used for very high gain stage amplification. The caps are always a good idea still.. Also on the 828 There are Two regulators on the power supply board held in with nylon screws to a rectangular bent aluminum heatsink. these nylon screws become brittle and break and the heatsink just comes off and away from the transistor. I always at minimum on the 828 replace the screws with new nylon screws and change the insulator ( they often become stuck to the heatsink and transistor and add thermal compound. If they are using sanyo made TO-220 transistors i replace them as well with KSC2073 for the two that are on there. I also want to point out that the MJ21195/96 where as it will work are meant for higher power applications. You could easily use MJ15001,15002, 3, 4 and even MJ21193/94 as well in the future ( if you have them) and still have more than enough power bandwidth.

How did you know to check the Capacitors vice other boa4d components?

Thanks for the video. I just want to replace the fan with a silent one and was seeing everything i need.

Thanks for the great video. I just picked one up and the lamps are out. Do I replace them from the front or take the top off?