The main thing that bugs me is the availability of items that are readily available in say Double O Gauge & say certain items that are just not gonna be brought to N Gauge. I’d love both the Hogwarts Express & the Winston Churchill Funeral train pack but that’s just me.

Tottally different to my experience. Rule 1

Useful information, great video. Was going to go with N Gauge, but went with OO. Cheers, Andy

It's a very good point on the availability. In N gauge we've only really got just 2 manufacturers in British N, Farish or Dapol... And rarely do they directly compete with eachother on a specific model, for class 37s and 47s, only Farish make them right now, if you want 33s or 43s, only Dapol make them right now... Both manufacturers have their monopolies in their corners of the market while avoiding directly competing with eachother as much as possible. We get none of the advantages of manufacturer competition in N gauge...

Wow Sir a lovely layout. I agree with you N Gauge is superb. I had N Gauge for 35 years then 0Gauge for 10 years . 00 Gauge for several years now at 67 I have N Gauge. I have built most of the Metcalfe Kits . I have four trains running around two different levels. 8 feet by 3 Feet. So far it's fine my fingers can still work properly. I always use Peco track hardly ever had a derailment. Best wishes Richard Canterbury kent.

TERRIFYING TOYS ??? Good Lord !! My 30 year old Japanese outline N gauge models, make those models you've got there look prehistoric. Steam roller wheels, and what look like really cheap nasty coarse gearing yuck. Don't suppose your locomotives have 5 pole skew armature can motors with double flywheels and machine polished brass wormgears, driving Frictionless Teflon coated bevel gearing. NO lubrication necessary of course. Japanese mechanisms coast of course, which means you have to learn how to drive them. This of course prevents use of those really crude & unrealistic DCC controllers I've seen in Britain. Japanese models require "Ultra Glide" controllers that look just like the drivers desk in a real train. Complete with real life type power & brake handles, horn, Speedometer, Ammeter, brake gauge, & line light. They also allow adjustment of the "Ultra Glide" acceleration & deceleration ratios to allow for the size of layout you have. Some of these controllers also have a provision to switch between operation of more than one train at a time, without the need for expensive chips. This is only possible with 12v DC in the rails, as a Common Return allows dozens of separate plus supplies to be connected to the plus rail without fear of a short circuit, as would happen if AC is used !!!

Great layout. Love the beach area!

Hi, Lewis. A footbridge is needed. Also, I would suggest that you 'lose' the signal box as your station looks like it wouldn't have one nowadays and probably would be unmanned. The goods yard would probably have been closed between 1964 and 1970, so the small workshop type business would 'fit in'. Is your layout based very loosely on the Camborne/Redruth/Scorrier/Chasewater area? If so, you could try to create a backscene incorporating a few more engine houses. Anywhere you look 'down west' there's plenty to choose from. Looking at the beach, it don't look like Gyllingvase, but as you say, it looks 'right'. Keep up the good work, boy!! 'An exiled Kernowik'

Good idea to do a video in January as a basis for later comparisons. 👍 Looks good. Happy Modelling

Hi Lewis. Any hobby is always a learning curve. The beauty of the YT videos like yours is that others can learn from your mistakes (as well as their own!). My case in point is your worries about a footbridge. Ideally a modeller would take into account the potential need to install a footbridge when deciding what distance to place adjacent platforms. Another point is how wide to make you platforms to allow for space for structures such as shelters, etc., to permit passengers to pass by.

Love the beach it looks really good. If your looking for more ideas and inspiration there is a OO layout called Liskerth that is worth a look.

Love the natural beaches rather than the hot spot.... Crowds/ over tourism

Hello Lewis 👋 It is definitely worth having these videos to remember how much things change over time 👌 The beach ⛱️ looks very natural 😍 especially your clay rocks 🪨 Woodland Scenics won't look any better 😇 I've used a "acrylic mirror" 🪞 as a "backscene' to make my beach look longer than it is 🤫 its especially effective when doing videos of running sessions 👍 I do agree about using plaster for the roads ✌️ it makes them more rustic 😲 than card sheets 😉 Painted sandpaper is also worth trying out 👍 Very best wishes for the future of your layout from the Emerald Isle ☘️

Just discovered your channel. I am a long standing N gauge modeller. It's a great gauge and with advances in technology the models are marvels of engineering and electronics. Everyone has their own reasons and derives their own enjoyment from the hobby. Like any hobby you make it and take from it what you will. The only rules are your rules, no one else's. There are fantastic examples in N gauge on KZfaq from dioramas and shelf layouts to room and shed fillers! They all have a place in our hobby. Well done!

Fleischmann track rubber is a much more forgiving cleaner. 10 minutes of that and my live is good to go every Sunday and I'm in a shed!

The thing I love about N gauge is that you can run full length trains in a relatively small space. I have a 2 metre by 950mm Japanese layout that allows me to run 8 car bullet trains, which are the correct number of cars for the area I am modelling. I also have a yard within the double track loop that lets me store 8 correct length ordinary trains ready for use when I want them. The other good thing about modelling Japanese n gauge trains is the huge amount of rolling stock available! We think of Britain being train mad but we pale into insignificance compared to Japan! One obvious example is that since the bullet trains started running in 1964 they have produced 18 different bullet train designs! We've had how many? 5 or 6?

The worst thing about N Gauge from a Japanese train enthusiast's perspective is that it's N Gauge not N Scale! Ordinary Japanese trains have standard gauge bodies running on narrow gauge bogies on narrow gauge track and bullet trains have wide gauge bodies running on standard gauge bogies on standard gauge track but both run on the same track in railway modelling, with the ordinary model trains narrow gauge bogies altered to standard gauge bogies and the bullet trains have the wide gauge bodies altered to standard gauge bodies to fit on double track in particular. The only physically correct model trains are the mini-shinkansen which are standard gauge bodies on standard gauge bogies.

To be frank British is N Scale is sub par when compared to some other manufacturers globally, I have a decent collection of OO Scale models from a wide variety of manufacturers both big and small and they are reasonably good models, when it comes to N Scale I have a large collection of Japanese models and they are well detailed as well as reasonably robust, obviously you have to take care when using them but they are of a higher quality compared to Grafar and Dapol N Scale models.

Yes a layout that can be kept when not in use is very important. Cause of the obvious compulsions that life throws...cheers. Happy rail modeling🍻

Biggest complaint for me is the appearance of Peco N track and points. Toy town looks. The OO gauge track has improved greatly but not N. There are build your own finescale versions but it depends on your skill level and budget. Come on Peco, it’s time to improve as there are many N modellers who will part with their cash!

70 hour work weeks 💀💀 I couldn't

I have a compact N layout with numerous points. We all need to clean our layouts to ensure good DCC running. I use either a Peco track rubber which works well, or iso-propyl alcohol in a CMX brass track cleaning tanker, which I can haul with a loco. Don't use WD-40. But what I have noticed are these observations: The track that is open for viewing gets dirty quite quickly, whereas the track that is covered up by tunneling almost never gets dirty. This shows that the majority of dirt descends from the air onto the exposed track. Secondly, Setrack and Insulfrog points relying on blade contact fail frequently after 12 months due to dirt. Fishplates too become corroded leading to increased electrical resistance and lower track voltages. The solution for ALL Setrack points on DCC is to solder contact wires between the frog area and the side rails on each side so that current is available either side of the frog no matter whether the blade contact is good or poor. Even better is to switch to Unifrog points, which are fantastic, but limited to medium radius only in N. The frog polarity can be switched with the point motor. The number of fishplates can be reduced by using flexible track. Otherwise, every time you disassemble the track, replace ALL the fishplates with new ones even tough they look OK. Keep the loco wheels clean with iso-propyl alcohol and a cotton bud. Only use locomotives with a pickup at each end. Only use 0-6-0 models with a Stay Alive fitted. (See Delticnapierdcc on KZfaq for an 0-6-0 with Stay Alive crossing a sheet of paper. Good luck Kite

N gauge is awesome :) A word of caution on the availability though: you might just be coincidentally coming into this whilst there's some decent modern-day GWR stuff around. I've been keeping an eye on things closely for the last 5-or-so years, and I think it can be many years between runs of models or liveries, and it can be hard to get them second-hand. My advice is that if you can reasonably afford something now, then get it, and sell it if you hit hard times later. Sometimes this approach can be difficult to get spouse agreement on, though ;) Your layout is looking nice so far, by the way - I like the scenery you're building and the colours in it

Hi, it's both funny and a bit sad how videos with a negative tone in their title get loads more views - I've had the same thing with one I made about reliability of N gauge locos, though it's been useful to get the comments. Personally for model scale I really like N gauge - even TT120 seems too big to me - I'd go with N gauge even if I had a warehouse size space to build in (sadly I've nothing of the sort!), because you can replicate long trains in the landscape, or full-size stations / freight facilities and still see the details. On the real railway those things take up absolutely loads of space. For track cleaning there's a particularly good video from the Rons Trains N Things channel where he evaluates NoOxID - it's called "Stop Cleaning Your Track on Your Model Railroad" - he talks about issues that some approaches can cause. I use Goo Gone on a lint-free cloth - I don't run my trains enough for them to keep the track clean, so often give it a clean when I decide I'm going to have some running.

You should go for T-Gauge, 1/450 scale. Then you'll realise that N is just another GIANT scale.

I am switching from oo gauge to n gauge same reason i can get more in ive got mine in the loft

Its all about regular running sessions, also enough trackfeeders. I have 2 wires on every piece of track. Ow and please stop showing GWR trains. It makes me wanna buy them😂

If you think n gauge is fragile don’t try O gauge. Ready to run locos are much worse for bits dropping off.

N scale/gauge is great for fitting a lot into a small space. My layout is 4 foot x 2.5 foot. In that space I have 2 loops with 2.5 sidings. Perfect. The track cleaning when I don't run it often enough can be a pain, but it's a great space saver. Tri-ang TT is another great space saver if you're prepared to work with steel track. Happy Modelling. Mon

You've done a great job on the 'beach scene' in the corner. Looks fantastic ! I look forward to you slowly but surely completing the rest of the layout. Happy New Year and all the best to you n yours.

I love N scale you can fit a lot more into a small space!!

I'm Modeling in 'N' Scale too. and you can put so much more in 'N' Scale in a small space which is not possible in OO of HO.

Agree

Try Inox, I find it very effective cleaning tracks and wheels. IPA absorbs moisture out of the air in humid environments, maybe that is contributing to your problem. If you have a dust problem, then you will have to wipe the track over semi regularly anyway. I use a small piece of MDF, it's non abrasive. The best piece of advice is do not use abrasives to clean your track. It just creates pits and fissures for dirt to settle in. If you find a better solution, let us know. Use Inox sparingly, a little goes a long way. And don't run locos with traction tyres after you do it, it will gum them up. Hope this helps.

Pretty accurate I'd say.

I am presuming you have used new Peco track for your layout. If so when new it does get dirty very quickly, but the more you use your layout and as the track becomes "run in" the less cleaning the track will require. I clean my track about once every three or four months. Just let some trains run for a few hours at a time. The Dapol class 50's I find will run regardless a long with the Farish class 60. Dapol's Hymek does like clean track. Using WD40 is a no no, dust will stick to the residue left behind, IPA is best, not the beer ! As fragility yes you are right and you are wrong. Certain models can be very fragile, Dapol's 68 buffers and windscreen wipers to be watched carefully when handling, but HST's are pretty robust, they just need Hunt couplings to stop the constant couplings. As for a fiddle yard, I built one and it has been a joy to have, I just worry will I have enough space going forward because there is always something else you want to own.

I have put away my oo gauge, not got rid of it yet, and am having a dabble in Hornby TT120. For me it seems to be the Golddy Locks scale, not to big, not to small. Only downside at the moment is cost, as there are few second hand item to be found and if you do find some the price is almost as much as buying new. But you can fit a lot of layout in a small space. TT120

Hi, it sounds like youve convinced yourself to go back to OO. You mentioned track cleaning, yes track does need cleaning but TBH a frequently used track tends to stay clean. Wondering if you are using DC or DCC as certain controllers will give different results in this area. The environment where the layout is kept can affect this, inc dust. Im finding whilst some items are more expensive than OO, its generally similar or much cheaper. Prices are rising... eg dapol mk3 was £22.99 now nearer £30. Many bachmann's are much more but still not quite at the OO level. You do need good eyes, but magnifiers and magnifying glasses along with good lights and varied tools like tweezers, you can do almost anything. Details on locos is always going to be an issue, but they are half the size, and its simply not possible to produce separately fitted parts to every area. Models are improving dramatically, especially when you look at offerings from just 15-20 years ago, they are in new leagues these days. Hoping that helps. If you still feel you are not getting on with it, N gauge is not for everyone, there is no shame switching back. For me its the ability to run full length trains in half the space of OO is massive for me.

Some very valid observations, you definitely should avoid handling the loco's where ever possible, a fiddle yard or similar is required if you are having a fleet. For me track cleaning has been an issue particularly that sometimes i would not run the layout for months at a time. I used the DCC concepts rubber but i noticed that was filthy and needed a wash but more recently using 100% isopropyl followed by a clean cloth and vacuum, recently I have been experimenting with a piece of cork. Regular running definitely helps. I am also not sure how temperature affects the oxidising process because it's warm here at the moment. I also noticed all my coaches and wagon wheels had dirt that was crusted so all my stock has been cleaned with cotton buds trimmed square dipped in isopropyl, the dirt was amazing and now they run better and I''m sure are better over points etc. I would also say if modelling in N you need the basic tools and know how to remove bogies and clean wheels and contacts removing fluff etc. I also think the loco's are getting better and will not be long before we see a chip with stay alive, just 3 seconds would prevent most stalling issues. Having said all that i wanted full length trains and big run, in 00 the layout would be half the size.

Interesting video. I was a OO modeller in my teens and early 20's but switched to N when I returned to the hobby around 15 yrs ago. Main reason is to be able to run prototypical length modern image trains. N gauge certainly ticks that box. As for track - the more often you run trains the less track cleaning is required. Leave the trains for a week of no running and you'll need to track clean - this is no different to any other scale. As for the range of models available - agree that OO has more to offer. That said there is still an excellent range out there - which is ever expanding. Indeed the quality of models now produced in N is on a par with OO. Happy modelling.

You might want to try the HOn30 community - we're modelling narrow gauge railways at HO scale using N-gauge track. The smaller locomotives and rollingstock that you find prototypically can take MUCH tighter curves. So you can get just as much railway into the same space of an N-gauge layout - but you're still modeling at HO scale. Personally, I'm heavily into 3D printed stuff - and I can easily find mountains of 3D printable building models from the HO community and print them for pennies each (just the cost of plastic and electricity). Wagons and such are easily available online - again, 3D printable. Locomotives generally use N-gauge chassis with 3D printed shells. My last loco cost me $19 for the chassis - and $0.10 worth of plastic - and was a free download. Personally - I don't want to buy more stuff. I want to be a MODELLER - and not a PURCHASER. So anything and everything that I can scratch-build or 3D print is what I do. It gives me little pleasure to splurge on a $120 locomotive or a $30 house model. On the other hand, something I've created myself is what the hobby is all about for me. So, honestly, I don't give damn what's for sale out there. I bought my track from Peco and some loco chassis from Japan and wheel-sets from China. I have two duel 12v controllers (used from eBay). Aside from that, literally 100% of my layout is stuff I made. My total budget for a 4'x8' layout is under $300. Every model I build for 3D printing is available for free download on Thingiverse just as soon as I'm happy that it's good. I built a windmill, a road bridge, fencing, a station...all sorts of stuff - and I get dozens of other modellers downloading them. We all share what we can - and that builds community.

I agree...especially if you get older..eye sight...00 is better🎉

N is great when space is limited, I'd go or it again over OO.

I think 00 is the smallest scale you can get any feeling of heft of the trains. N is too small for me.

My N Gauge layout is in my garage in Humid Australia. I have the issue of the track oxidising and use a Peco rubber on it to buff it up. Regular use helps avoid this. Happy Modelling.

I'm getting stocked up to make my own turnouts for the first time, and in n gauge with also having deteriorating eyes and sausage fingers. Wish me luck. 😂