I miss my matebo saw. I hope it’s getting some good use at least

My first couple years remodeling I used blade left and blade right skil saws and a speed square for all my trim work. And miter shears for small stuff. The skil 10” slider is a great value. Shadow line, dual bevel, depth stop. You can get it on sale for $190 a couple times a year. I was told 10”r’s are more accurate for trim but it sounds like one of those things that was true a generation ago and it no longer applies

I run my own finish carpentry business, and man, as nice as my 12” dewalt compound miter saw is, I only bring it along when I absolutely NEED it, otherwise my 10” hitachi is just so much lighter and easier to pack out. I love that little saw, it’s probably over a decade old by now and it’s still routinely making me money

Thanks for all the tips ... still hiring you to do it 😂

Finally. Someone who is worth what they do.

Never seen the wedge trick before we always use those ratchet things that push off the baseboard to tighten the board

KZfaq woodworkers = Milwaukee and festool EVERYTHING Working pros = hitachi chop saw

Good to know

Man get yourself the Makita drywall saw. Every remodeler needs one. 200 bucks but hook her up to a vacuum and it’s dust free and perfect depth Not sure if it would be good for plaster though. we dont have that out here

Thats wicked dude. One piece track? Where did you source hardware?

Whats your go to for a compact/light stand setup? Compact dewalt and those fixed material stands? Tired of using the tailgate for quick door trims

We don't need no hooks

That's completely wrong. The face angle is for different materials. Soft materials like plastic you want a negative hook because you don't want it ripping. Wood you'd have a positive hook because the tooth needs to slice the fibers. We ran giant 20x30 cnc saws at a plastic and dielectric insulation manufacturing plant. Probably had over 150 varieties of saw blades depending on material, depth, etc.

When flying with tools, I don't give a second though to the Milwaukee boxes - they'll make it safe, secure, and still locked. I'm pretty sure I don't want to fly with tools in the Ridgid boxes. -------------------------------------------------- [No‎te: This com‎ment is not focused on any particular "design‎ated group" with regard to the KZfaq "ha‎te speech" policies. It simply reflects the author's opinion regarding a subject, which may or may not also pertain to an individual's actions demonstrated in the video. If any such individuals belong to any of the "desi‎gnated groups", any commentary included is merely incidental to that grouping and such groups are not the focus of any comm‎ents. It's pathe‎tic that this comment is necessary for the Yo‎uTube cens‎ors.]

I kind of wrote off the 8 1/2 inch sliding saw in favor of a 12 inch sliding, I'm rethinking the 8 1/2 inch saw size now after seeing your setup. 12 really seems overkill for most of what i'd be doing with cutting down 8/4 thickness hardwoods?

This is a great video mate! You have a great collection of mitre saws! Love the amount of effort and detail you went to, to make this!

Great Content, thank you. I have a technical question. Once opening up that section, couldn't you shimmy your drips underneath the sheathing and hardi to create that proper lap? then only back caulk the sides? purely curious! Thanks

This info is spot on!! Thanks

Lol that's crap ..

All my tape mesures have play at the end where the hook is rivited on throwing off the mesurment about 2 or 3mm

Great video, do you own all those saws? Beautiful yard btw

Hey I just need thin low baseboard in my basement, can I use that as a stand alone?

Extremely well conceived and compendious presentation. Lots of valuable practical tips. A few thoughts --- Regarding coping of base using vertical partial cuts where one wall is out of plumb: walls can often more easily be shimmed to plumb using a flathead screw as micro-adjustable shim than by bothering to cut the straight portion of the cope to the uncorrected angle. As a pro trim guy, my preferred jobsite MS arsenal comprises: 7 1/4" 20V for punchlist and small scale jobs; corded 12" compound non-slider with Forrest or equal full-kerf blade for serious trim work; and track saw for cuts too lengthy for the non-slider. I find the non-sliders, by design, have less lateral play than sliders, and that a shop-built dust hood for one can be much more compact and efficient than with a slider. If I was doing more stair work, I'd consider a 12" slider, probably Makita. To spend Kapex money and end up with the limits of a 10" (proprietary!) blade is nkot a route I'd be willing to go. As for laps and dados: If this is an op you do much, I'd advise throwing $150 at a trim router, 1/2" bit, and speed square, rather than allowing that need to push you, perhaps unnecessarily, into a slider. Overall, I continue to feel that Dewalt saws offer the best quality bang for the buck.

I want lids that can come off but with a button or something, otherwise still click to stay open

I mistakenly missed a key feature! Shadow lines and laser lines. Shadow lines are my preference by far for accuracy and visibility. Lasers are definitely better than nothing, but they can be more difficult to see in the glaring sun. Neither are necessary features, just convenient for initial alignment. *A second feature I didn't cover was dust collection. They're all pretty mediocre. Just assume the worst and hope for the best. I usually bend the metal inside the dust collection bags to face more downward so gravity holds the dust better. *Note: Makita does offer a 6 1/2" fixed saw and Evolution offers an 8 1/4" fixed saw on the US market. They are very niche, I have never seen them used, and I personally don't see any reason for purchasing them over a 7 1/4" or 10".

Any opinions on single line laser, dual line laser, or shadow lines?

Crazy how much info you packed in, great stuff

Smart man

Great idea. You do really nice work

Great tips. I like the bent blade tip. Never thought to do that.

Pass on the fancy tips, buy a drill dr. It is worth the investment, you can sharpen bits till theres nothing left of them, break it off grind it flat and the drill dr. Will put a tip on it.

Couldnt you just in theory be drilling onto metal into wood to avoid from your problem?

Great work! Awesome to watch your skills.

using a toothless blade for plaster seems like a good way to recycle burnt up blades i have laying around. i usually just use the grout removal blades

Thanks for the video, beautiful work!

Nice work! 🫡 Appreciate the compilation video.

This is just to show that there's no right or wrong way to replicate something, just be confident in your capabilities and think outside the box. Obviously if you had to make a lot of a one trim, you'll want a fabrication shop to make a custom router/shaper bit, but that's not usually necessary. Also, I know some of you long term followers may have already seen these, I just wanted to consolidate some older videos.

Yod clean up? ❤😂

I thought this was mark wahlberg lol

Worked perfectly. Stacked 10-12' brush up, compressed it down a little, chopped into 3rds in one pass with the chainsaw, and right to the burning pit.

My favorite are cobalt no substitute love them they last so much longer than others. Step drill :)

Point grind for a flat bottom w/small pilot. (More of a web thinning protrusion).

The whole/hole trick. Is keeping the edge into the cut (material). Bounce or skipping= chipping. Soo slow is a strong engagement. Pro tip: lubrication yo.

It's a Cobalt material drill. You need to pilot drill 1/16 then do the body size ..for construction iron. Center punch first for position accuracy.

Interesting!

Why did you put the bumpers in the dados? Does that prevent rattling while keeping things tight?

I got the 13 amp 4.5-6" harbor freight grinder on sale for like $60. Things a beast, I can lean most of my bodyweight onto it and it doesn't stall out.

You can also bend it with pliers it also makes it easier to fit on your belt you don’t use the belt.

hate to break it to you, but your buddy has horrible taste. Also, barn doors provide almost zero sound deadening

Temple builders on KZfaq has the really good foundational knowledge for carpentry and you have all the super subtle little tricks that differentiate professionals from amateurs. I like your stuff bro keep it up