Sorry it did not work for you. To satisfy my own curiosity, did you check for continuity from one side of the thermal fuse to the other side. If you have no continuity then you need to either replace or re-set it. If you have continuity then obviously the thermal fuse is not the problem. If you have continuity, some have commented having a door switch problem. Lots of things including microwaves, washing machines, etc. need to know the door is shut in order for the item to work. Thus the reason for a door switch. Just throwing this out there as a possibility. I believe some commented all they had to do was bend it a little and it started working again. We did not have a door problem, so I cannot help you there except to mention it and perhaps you can find a video regarding door switches. Thanks for watching and commenting, even though it did not work for you. Good luck!

LOL! For sure, it was in really bad shape. Once he graduated from college and got a job, he immediately sold that poor old Suburban and got into debt with a new vehicle. I never made a better connection by a solder splice or wire nut or anything and the cluster was still working when he sold it. Thanks for watching and commenting!😀

Thanks for letting me know it is still helping people out!

I feel for you! I cleaned mine up again this last winter and so far no problems. I have also thrown a few clean Q-tips into a small zip bag into my already overloaded fishing vest, just in case I need to clean it somewhere other than my house. I hope your next trip will be all tight lines.

Thanks for watching and commenting. If your goal is like mine, to help others with what seems like a fairly simple fix, then I would encourage you to make a video of your micro switch replacement. Like my video, it could be made after the fact or even though you have already fixed the problem. It could potentially help many grateful people. Thanks again!

When someone subscribes to my channel, KZfaq sends me a notification. So, I just wanted to thank you for the subscription. The more people that watch, click the like button and subscribe, the more that video become visible to other having the same problem we had. So thank you!

Sorry it did not help. If you read some more of the comments, a few people did not have the reset problem, but had a door switch problem. They were able to fix the door switch problem. Sorry I cannot help you with that, since my son did not have that problem, but it might be worth try if you are mechanically inclined. On my washing machine the lid has to be closed or the machine will not drain and spin. I had to take the old broken switch off and replace it with a new lid switch. Same thing on our old microwave. It will not operate unless it thinks the door is closed. Had to repair that switch. Anyways your air fryer needs to know the door is shut, via a switch, to operate. Good luck my friend. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Love the fact that you could see the humor in this tedious job. Mine is still working great despite try to blow a duck. LOL!😃

Thank you for a great comment! Thank you for explaining your symptoms and how you ultimately fixed the problem. Great comment! When I am watching other people’s videos, I try my best to go thru the comments, because there can be really good information sort of hidden there. Just like yours! Thanks for watching and thanks for sharing your experience.

That is so strange to me. Because the nozzles are all metal male threaded. They look like brass. Male threaded like a bolt. And the part they go into is metal female threaded like a metal brass nut. So, this part of the sprayer is all metal. I find it hard to figure out why it will not come apart. Mine is basically just like a metal bolt going into a metal nut. Yes, sometimes cross threading can happen even with metal bolts and nuts, but with coarse, not fine threads, it is rare. I am not sure what to tell you, except mine has been used extensively and is still working just fine for small projects. I always take the nozzle off and clean it and run that small brush, that came with mine, into the female threaded area to clean the threads as shown in Part 2 of my videos. I have no idea why yours is giving you this problem. Sorry cannot help you.

Great idea! I did a similar thing on one of my other portals, I used the multi-tool and hand chisels to form an all most perfect 2 x 4, (1 ½” x 3 ½”) void and then put a 5’ long 2x4 in the void. I used wood epoxy on the back side and other sides, but I think an adhesive might have been better. I did anchor with 3” screws thru the 1 ½” side. Seems to be holding up ok. Thanks for watching and a good comment!

Thanks for watching and the nice comment. You might also watch this one I made when I finally replaced my switch. Replaced a broken Harbor Freight Miter Saw switch kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qZydeJiQz8fYmZc.html Read the description in the above mentioned video because I describe how to check where brake wires and power wires go. Good luck and I hope this information helps you.

Change the tip to a smaller or bigger size?

I would never by pass the thermal fuse safety device. Just like I would never try to hot wire across a circuit breaker in my home. 1. Try making sure the thermal fuses' face is clean by wiping it down real good. 2. I would actually try to clean the entire oven area the best I could, but for sure the thermal fuse itself. 3. Next try moving the fryer to an open area when operating it, this will allow the fan to bring in cooler air and hopefully keep the thermal fuse from tripping. The fan if operating properly needs to be able to circulate cooler air into the fryer. 4. I would only use the fryer for cooking small items or in other words for shorter times. Anything that takes a very long time to cook, I would use a conventional oven since the longer, it takes to cook in the fryer, the more apt the thermal fuse will trip. 5. If you try all the above and it keeps tripping, I would try to find a replacement thermal fuse, but never bypass the thermal fuse safety device. Perhaps the fan is not operating properly and perhaps it is time to replace parts or just buy a new fryer. Good luck!

Thanks for the information that the trigger you bought using my link has the power on the left and brake on the right. This is VERY IMPORTANT information. This indicates to me that it is VERY IMPORTANT that one should do a continuity test to see which post have continuity when the trigger is not pulled, (this would be the brake circuit). And which post have continuity when the trigger is pulled, ( this would be the power circuit posts) . I have added this information to the description, based on your comment. Hopefully the description and your comment and my reply will help others figure out where the brake wires go and where the power wires go. Thanks again for commenting on your experience with your replacement switch. Or, that it is very important to study the circuit diagram on the replacement switch. If you pause my video around 3:20 you will see the circuity of my replacement switch. Note: It is hard to see, but there is a solid line showing posts labeled 2 located on the left of my switch have continuity all the time until the trigger is pulled. When trigger is pulled there is a dashed line indicating something pushes open the circuit at 2. So no more continuity across post 2 (where Brake wires should be). Trigger pulled and the circuit is closed across posts 1, (where the power should be). So the Circuit diagram on my replacement switch showed Brake on Left and Power on Right. Hopefully your circuit diagram on your switch showed the proper brake and power wire circuit orientations. If your case, Power on Left and brake on right. However as I said above. It just goes to show that one should check which post have continuity when the trigger is not pulled, but no longer has continuity once the trigger is pulled, (Brake circuit). And which ones do not have continuity until the trigger is pulled, (Power circuit). Very good comment! Thanks for watching and most import, commenting about your experience.

Yes, I did put some hints in the description on how to get to the thermal fuse by removing the heating element and fan, but probably no one reads my long description. I hope that they will read your comment, if they are trying to get to the thermal fuse or just removing the fan. Thanks for watching and a useful comment!

My sons had a heating element. Once I realized I could reset the thermal fuse I stopped my inquiry and put it back together, so I am not sure why your heating element is not heating. The heating element is large, so I cannot imagine it going bad, but I suppose it could. I suspect something else is not allowing current to go to the heating element. Perhaps just a loose wire going to the heating element. Perhaps there is another fuse or a component on the circuit board has gone bad and is stopping current at that failure. These are just my guesses, since we did not have your problem. Sorry, I cannot help you, but if you are a DIY with a multimeter I would look at the things I have mentioned here. Be careful, I always unplug the device and check continuity with no power present. Capacitors can hold current even when the device is unplugged, so just be careful with your multimeter. Good luck!

@@johntube2525 Thanks so much much for your input. I will let me husband know! 👍☺️

Watching, commenting, clicking the like button and subscribing helps make this video come up when people do a search. So thank you for watching and letting me know it helped. If you have not already done so, please click the like button and if you are interested in seeing more of my videos, you could also subscribe. Thanks!

Just a wild asssssss guess, but maybe something is wrong with the fan. Going bad or something on it to unbalance it? Good Luck!

Thanks for watching and the kind words. Your comments lets me know I hit my goal, which is, To help others with a similar problem.

Maybe watching my first video where I first found out my saw would not work would help you. title of that first video on KZfaq is: Trouble shooting non working Harbor Freight Miter Saw kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pr2jdrR6tJbFg4E.html If not, I will try to explain same as I did on the video. My old switch did not work. The switch I show you in the second video, where you commented, has the right set up for a brake. I would get continuity across the left hand side of that new switch without pulling the trigger, telling me that is for the brake. The right hand side of that new switch had no continuity until I pulled the switch trigger, telling me that was for power to the motor. So if you are replacing a switch, two pair of the wires will go to the left and 2 pair of wires will go to the right. In the video reference above I found out the white and black wire, for my saw, were for the power. I even hot wires them to a typical multi outlet switch and test if the saw worked that way. It did, so I knew they were for the power and the other two pair of wires had to be for the brake. I hope this helps you!

I somehow found a listing by letter and number of what color and what wire went into the cluster connector for a 2000 Suburban or a 2001 Silverado. I think it was on the Chevy forum, but do not remember where I got it from. Here is a copy of what I found. Depending on the year and make of yours it may be different. Generally the Black Wire, and the Black and White Wire are for grounds, however it appears below there is also a Black and White at B12 for washer fluid level. A1 tan/white- oil pressure A2 White - Tachometer A3 Dk Grn/Whtn- VSS signal from PCM A4 Brown - Hot in On and Run A5 Gray - computer data lines A6 Black - Ground A7 Gray - Interior Lights (Dash Lights) A8 Black/white - Ground A9 Orange - Hot all times even with key off A10 Pink -Hot in Acc, On and Run A11 N/A Not used A12 Dk Green/white - Park Brake Switch B1 Lt Blue - Exterior lights (left turn signal) B2 Brown /White - Diesel engine control systems B3 Dk blue - Engine Control Systems B4 N/A Not used B5 ppl/white - Interior lights B6 Pink - Hot in On and Run B7 N/A B8 N/A B9 N/A B10 dk blu -Exterior light systems (right turn) B11 N/a B12 Black/White - washer fluid level Good Luck.

Great comment Charles. I totally agree! Jumping past or bypassing the thermal fuse is a terrible idea. I believe the manufacturer put this safety device there to shut off power when the internal temperature reaches 200 degrees C.That way the internal temperature would not continue to rise to the point of fire. If one bypasses the thermal fuse, you are bypassing the safety of no more power. Would you remove a circuit breaker and jump a wire across it. No way! At least I hope No Way. Circuit breakers are also safety devices.

@@johntube2525 I’m an Electrical Engineer. Fuses are annoying but critical

There have been some comments about my video, where they had a problem with the door switch. Here is what Leon said about the door switch. and he described the symptoms of door switch problems. . @LeonKeyser 1 year ago Thanks for the DIY fix. In our case it was not the thermal switch, but the micro switch at the front. The one that triggers the screen and open door. The switch was malfunctioning and by using a small screwdriver, bending the flip switch leg inside the micro switch a bit, fixed the switch. Now we're cooking again. Your vid helped me figure out how to open it up. Thank you so much! SYMPTOM: If the fryer briefly turns on when you plug it in and the light inside stays on, but the screen stays off when the door is open. This switch is the problem. Msg me and I can help with some pictures I took. Perhaps that is your problem? We did not have a door switch problem, so I can not verify what Leon said. If you sort the comments by Newest you will see another comment made 6 days ago where they could not reset theirs and my reply. Please, Read my reply and just know a Multimeter is a valuable tool for DIY fixers. A multimeter can be purchased at Walmart, Amazon, etc. for under $20. As I told @user-bu3pi2pz2g 6 days ago She should test for continuity to see if the thermal fuse is the problem or not. A word of warning, Never test for continuity when the unit is plugged into power or power is present. Continuity test should only be done to test if a component is open or closed with no power present. The thermal fuse should be closed, or has continuity. If open, or no continuity then the heat inside the fryer triggered the thermal fuse’s temperature rating caused it to open, No Continuity. It either has to be reset or replaced. Resetting puts it back into a closed state, Has Continuity. My son’s is still working and since it was so easy to fix, I decided to make this video to help others with the same problem. As I told him, Keeping the unit as clean as possible is the best way to keep from triggering the thermal fuse. Also, when using for a prolonged time put it is an open space so the fan can circulate cooler air to keep the thermal fuse from overheating an opening it. Good luck and I hope you are able to fix yours.

Yes it's the light still on but screen is off. Ty so much

I don't see how to send a message to get the pics 😢

@@letisiaariyurisimancas1911 Sorry, I was watching lot of March Madness Basketball today. If your thermal fuse was open, I do not think you would even get a light on, because the thermal fuse is basically located right off the power cord and stops current flow right there. So not even the light would come on if it was an open, NO Continuity, thermal fuse. No current would flow past the thermal fuse to the light. That was a comment made 1 year ago by @LeonKeyser. If you sort by newest and then scroll way down you will find it. Note as you scroll down the time frame when comments were made gets older and older. Look for one made a year ago. There will be several. I never tried to message him since we did not have a door switch problem. If you click on @LeonKeyser it will take you too his channel. Perhaps you could try commenting on his newest video and ask him if you can get those pictures of the Vortex Fryer door switch fix he refers to on Johntube2525’s, How I fixed an Instant Vortex Plus Air Fryer. In his comment to my video, he does say he bent a spring in the micro switch and got it working again. Here again I do not own one of these Fryers, I only fixed my sons. I tried searching for Fryer Door Switch Fix and could not really find much on KZfaq, but if you try a similar search, it does seem to pop up a few where they might sell a replacement door switch. I did not click on those, just saw them when I searched. I think you need to find yours and see what it looks like or if there is a part number or label on it so hopefully you could get the right replacement. That is about the best I can do and suggest. Good Luck and I hope you get it fixed.

@@letisiaariyurisimancas1911 Dummy me! Once you find the comment by @LeonKeyser 1 year ago you can just click the reply link and ask him HOW and IF you can get the pictures related to fixing the door switch because you have the same symptoms. Just realize it has been a year and he may not have them anymore. You might have to share your email address with him if he reads your reply to his comment. If not here are some examples of micro switches that I know of. Look for a button that gets pushed in when the door is shut. Or a post on the door that eventually pushes a switch closed like on a top loading washing machine lid. I fixed our microwave door problem years ago. So long ago I do not remember how I did it, but microwave oven would not work unless the door is shut. I recently fixed our 25 year old washing machine lid switch. Washing machine will not spin unless the top lid is shut. Found the switch is plastic and was cracked so points would not close. First, I just taped the lid switch together and twisted a wire tight around the tape to hold the thing together. It worked, but I found a new switch on EBay for under $15 and bought a new switch. Replaced the old with brand new. No video. I temporarily fixed a micro end switch on my heating system until I could find a switch replacement. I bent the spring inside, so the points would snap shut when the black button was pushed in. My heating system has a Honeywell valve assembly with a micro end switch. A little black button on the micro end switch gets pushed in and that closes a set of points inside the switch. Once I found replacement switches, on EBay I replace the old with new. Look for a switch that will be actuated once the door on your fryer is closed. My son lives in town 20 miles away, so I cannot look at his for you. However look for the switch so you know what to try and fix or replace. Good Luck.

If you read many of the comments you will see, not only did I get my sons to reset, but many others also got theirs to reset. If you have a multi-meter please Check, the thermal fuse for continuity. If it has continuity then there is something else wrong somewhere. If it doesn’t have continuity then it is the thermal fuse that must either be reset by pushing the little black button or you might have to replace it, if it will not reset. Since I was able to reset ours, it had continuity after I got it out by pushing on the little black button, I never pursued trying to buy a replacement. Perhaps you can find a replacement, ours was labeled KSD301-CR 16A 125V 200C. Try to find this exact one by googling KSD301-CR and/or google replacement thermal fuse and try to find one with the same specifications. I think the most import information or specification is the 200C. Meaning it is rated for 200 degrees Celsius. I would not go lower on that temperature rating if at all possible. I think the next important information is 16A, should be rated for 16 Amps and 125 Volts. It is a chore to remove that little thermal fuse, but can be done. Since I do not own one and I simply managed to fix my sons that is about all I can tell you. Good luck and I hope you get yours working.

Thanks for watching and the kind comment! It is comments like this that inspire me to take the time to make a video that might help others to a somewhat easy fix of something. Please click the like button and/or subscribe. This will help others that may be struggling with the same fryer issue, find the video on KZfaq. Just clicking the LIKE button as well as commenting also helps, others find this video, so THANK YOU! Apparently, the more LIKES, views, subscribers and comments a video has the more likely a search on KZfaq will find that particular video. Thanks again.

LOL! My wife used to tell me it is wash not warsh. She gave up and knows I will never change. LOL! I think somehow I started saying that when I was a kid. Now I am 75, so it is rock solid in my poor simple brain now and unfortunately, it will never change. Glad you got a kick out of it. Thanks for watching!

I told my son there were probably at least 3 things that could cause the thermal fuse to trip and he should try to avoid these three things. Remember the thermal fuse is a safety device to try and prevent a combustible fire from occurring. At the end of my video I show you the labeling that was on our thermal fuse. It is only rated for 200 degrees C. This converts to 392 degrees F. 1. Do not let grease build up inside the fryer. Especially on the face of the thermal fuse. Keep the interior as clean as possible. Here is a link to a great video by, Lana Under Pressure, on cleaning Air Fryers: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h9ekm9ti09HJYHk.html 2. Do not cook with the Fryer in a somewhat confined space, where it cannot properly circulate air to keep the internal temperature below the thermal fuses' rated value. Pull away from the wall and even better move to a location where no cabinet is above it. It needs to be able to circulate cooler air while cooking. 3. Try to avoid cooking things that take a very long time to cook and probably should have been cooked in a regular oven rather than the fryer. Thanks for watching and commenting and I hope these tips help you as much as they helped my son. He and my grandkids still use theirs.